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Re: driving/fog lights

 

I have had Hella ff50 lights on several of my vehicles and they work great. They are available
in driving and fog patterns. They use the H7 bulbs. You should be able to get them for about
$100. The fit very nicely into the space the factory ones go. RIck.


Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

Joe R
 

Here's the page at the Ross-tech (vag-com) site telling you why and how to fix it. Basically aftermarket radio's put 12 volts for the antenna on the "K" communication line.


Joe R.

----- Original Message -----
From: billweiliii
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:19 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: OBD II/ VAG COM


Do you have an aftermarket radio? I had my EVC inspected after I
bought it used & everything was fine with the ODBII, but then had a new
stereo installed & the ODB port no longer worked. Check the archives
for info on this, I think it was even in a VW service bulletin. When I
went back to the radio installer, all he had to do was cut one line.

Bill
01 EVC
Rosa Blanco

--- In ev_update@..., "vweuro00" <m_shea@...> wrote:
>
> my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II
> port. i checked the wires going to it. two of them are ground wires
> that both have a good ground. one has 12v going to it and that one is
> fine. the other is the gray/white wire. i'm not sure where that one
> goes to. the bentley manual shows that it goes to the radio. that
> doesn't seem right to me. at any rate, i'm two months past my
> inspection now as i've been trying to figure this out. i'd love to
get
> any ideas.
> thanks
> mike
>


Re: moving up from a 1999 Eurovan - correction, 1993

 

One of those days - I currently have a 1993 5 cylinder Eurovan, not a 1999.

Dane

--- On Sat, 6/21/08, Dane Walther <dane_s_walther@...> wrote:

From: Dane Walther <dane_s_walther@...>
Subject: moving up from a 1999 Eurovan
To: ev_update@...
Date: Saturday, June 21, 2008, 3:51 PM
I've been considering selling my 1999 EV and getting a
newer VR6 Eurovan (perhaps 2002 or newer). Seeing as
don't know much about the newer VR6 models, are there
any specific items/problems I should check when shopping
around?

Thanks,

Dane


moving up from a 1999 Eurovan

 

I've been considering selling my 1999 EV and getting a newer VR6 Eurovan (perhaps 2002 or newer). Seeing as don't know much about the newer VR6 models, are there any specific items/problems I should check when shopping around?

Thanks,

Dane


Re: driving/fog lights

dave_king_ev
 

Thanks Bob.


--- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote:

They are standard equipment in 2001-3. I have them but us them
infrequently, mostly for periodically patrolling the neighborhood at
slow speed as part
of the Neighborhood Watch program. The lights' pattern is very wide,
probably
160 degrees, and short (less than 200 feet). The bulb is an H3,
12v, 55w.
Europarts-sd carries the bulb for $4.50.

Bob W.


In a message dated 6/21/2008 2:59:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dave_king_ev@... writes:

Does anyone use the OEM lights? I see europarts sells them for about
$300 (without the switch and relay and wiring harnesses).

You can buy toys in autoparts stores for $40 or you can buy good ones
Hella or PIAA for $400-$1000.

Here's a little reference info:

_
()
_
()
_
()

Does anyone have any experience with the OEM (that fit perfectly in
the bumper cover)? What kind of pattern do they have? What kind of
bulb? What wattage? Are replacement bulbs a VW-only part?




****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


driving/fog lights

dave_king_ev
 

Does anyone use the OEM lights? I see europarts sells them for about
$300 (without the switch and relay and wiring harnesses).

You can buy toys in autoparts stores for $40 or you can buy good ones
Hella or PIAA for $400-$1000.


Here's a little reference info:







Does anyone have any experience with the OEM (that fit perfectly in
the bumper cover)? What kind of pattern do they have? What kind of
bulb? What wattage? Are replacement bulbs a VW-only part?


What Ya Think on This Eurovan?

chipcook1975
 

Looking for a EV, looking for low miles. Also scared of auto
transmissions breaking (I have only owned VW Manuals so far).

I am in Greensboro, NC. I saw this in NJ:


Re: EVC Electrical Problem

jack_son_73
 

Jas -

I was trying to keep you from having to access the
Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the
rear power panel, & access requires removing the
large plastic panel below the closet. The converter
has an internal breaker similar/identical to the
ones near the batteries.

I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced
mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output
into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC
'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had
6A for charging house bat.]

If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all
seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic
cover to the left of luggage area, below closet.

Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach
the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't
have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial]
access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I
will do the same.

The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches
forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via
converter], & front relay connect.

Regards,

Jack-son
========================
---In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@..> wrote:

Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and
another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a
breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer...
through
the air vents for the heater?

--- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:

The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
forward of the Converter. The converter is
connected to that tie point, & to
rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
There is another circuit breaker near the rear
bat. When the converter is NOT connected to
shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
firewall relay.

BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
a defective identical 30A breaker inside the
Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so
my rear bat never got a full charge, from
alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
welcomed back 'home'.

BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to
chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
while working on my van.

Jack_son
'03 EVC '01 Passat
===============
--In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@>
wrote:

Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above
the
battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-
breaker
inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and
fuse
checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection
for
distribution?

--- In ev_update@..., "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:

There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the
engine
is
running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear
battery.
A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them.
Usually
about
$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There
should
be 3
wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or
nuts
holding it to the wall.

Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close
to
the
rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it
with
a
non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.

Duane
05HD Rialta


--- In ev_update@..., "jastamford"
<johnstamford@>
wrote:

My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged
by
the
altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an
THEN!
I
go on
a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge
cold
while
driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any
juice
at
the
battery with the engine running and the alternator showed
14.5
VDC
output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged
the
coach
battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have
come
to
the
conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the
shoreline and
the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is;
1)
am
I
correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do
I
change
it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's
help.


Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)

 

Can't see why you would want to waste propane when the electicity while driving is free. I am of the opinion that operating the evc while the fridge gas is on is a safety hazard. Typically when driving I have the whole family on board and I would not risk their lives in this way. All horrible accidents usually happen when the hazard was ignored or 'we have done this safely before'. I don't like to see accounts of driving with the fridge gas on because they are a tacit advertisment that its ok, whereas in fact it is very dangerous.
Jonathan
1999 EVC

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "Miles Koppersmith" <miles@...>

Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 17:06:30
To:ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)


I disagree with your comments about the Norcold. Mine works so well
that if I am not careful it will freeze things up.

It has never failed to light in the 6 years I have had it except for
one time when my house battery was almost dead and it did not have
enough juice for the igniter to work. Also I have never cleaned out
the burner box or anything else in the past 6 years.

I always operate it on propane while driving and it has never gone
out or quit. The only time I switch it from propane to electricity
is if I am hooked up to electric power at a campground because doing
so automatically cuts it off from propane and I have to switch it
over to electric mode.

I always turn it off when I stop for a fuel fillup (except for a few
times when I forgot to turn it off) and it has always relit without
hesitation.

We have been all around the US from Key West to Seattle, from San
Diego to Maryland, from South Texas to Mount Rushmore, and even
circled around Lake Michigan. It works as well in the Colorado
mountains as it does along the beach. No problems.

Of course one thing I always do is make sure I park in a level spot
whenever using it since several have said that not doing so may cause
your burner to soot up. YMMV. :>)

Miles Koppersmith
2002 EVC "Gadabout"


--- In ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com, "forest flanigan" <creoflan@...>
wrote:
>
> Hey Larry --
>
> I have refilled at many stations that did not have a recovery
system--in my
> last camper (cab over on a pick up) I refueled all the way down the
Baja
> Peninsula with the propane on , and that camper had a "normal "
fridge where
> you could open the door on the outside and see the flame burning.
In fact
> thats how I had to light it ---my wife would hold the red button in
and I
> would put a flame to it.
>
> Again -I 'm not stating this is safe practice. This is a
recommedation to
> the writer that was losing to much battery.
>
> Jackson may have the right idea--pull the sucker out and put in one
that
> really works. Both Sportsmoble and GTRV put electrics in their rigs.
>
> As I have stated many times on this forum this is the worst
designed propane
> refer I have come across--and by far the hardest to maintain--I
have had
> mine out 4 times this week to get it ready for summer. I think that
> Winnebago must have threatened Norcold into this design. Maybe
saying --"if
> you don't make it this way we will go elsewhere for our parts".
Norcold
> should have told them they would NOT build such a sh%^%tty unit so
as to not
> ruin their reputation. But in the era of the big boy's pushing us
all around
> that's not how business is done. It's a proven fact that companies
make
> different types of the same product for different stores. Iwanted
to get
> some T-shirts years ago to make some Chrstmas presents --bought
some Haines
> from K-mart and they were so thin that I couldn't use them --I went
looking
> for a better brand and wound up buying Haines --just not "the they
made for
> K-mart " as the seller said. Why would a good company that makes a
good
> product do this?
>
> Forest
> with a finally working Norcold
>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>


Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)

Miles Koppersmith
 

I disagree with your comments about the Norcold. Mine works so well
that if I am not careful it will freeze things up.

It has never failed to light in the 6 years I have had it except for
one time when my house battery was almost dead and it did not have
enough juice for the igniter to work. Also I have never cleaned out
the burner box or anything else in the past 6 years.

I always operate it on propane while driving and it has never gone
out or quit. The only time I switch it from propane to electricity
is if I am hooked up to electric power at a campground because doing
so automatically cuts it off from propane and I have to switch it
over to electric mode.

I always turn it off when I stop for a fuel fillup (except for a few
times when I forgot to turn it off) and it has always relit without
hesitation.

We have been all around the US from Key West to Seattle, from San
Diego to Maryland, from South Texas to Mount Rushmore, and even
circled around Lake Michigan. It works as well in the Colorado
mountains as it does along the beach. No problems.

Of course one thing I always do is make sure I park in a level spot
whenever using it since several have said that not doing so may cause
your burner to soot up. YMMV. :>)

Miles Koppersmith
2002 EVC "Gadabout"


--- In ev_update@..., "forest flanigan" <creoflan@...>
wrote:

Hey Larry --

I have refilled at many stations that did not have a recovery
system--in my
last camper (cab over on a pick up) I refueled all the way down the
Baja
Peninsula with the propane on , and that camper had a "normal "
fridge where
you could open the door on the outside and see the flame burning.
In fact
thats how I had to light it ---my wife would hold the red button in
and I
would put a flame to it.

Again -I 'm not stating this is safe practice. This is a
recommedation to
the writer that was losing to much battery.

Jackson may have the right idea--pull the sucker out and put in one
that
really works. Both Sportsmoble and GTRV put electrics in their rigs.

As I have stated many times on this forum this is the worst
designed propane
refer I have come across--and by far the hardest to maintain--I
have had
mine out 4 times this week to get it ready for summer. I think that
Winnebago must have threatened Norcold into this design. Maybe
saying --"if
you don't make it this way we will go elsewhere for our parts".
Norcold
should have told them they would NOT build such a sh%^%tty unit so
as to not
ruin their reputation. But in the era of the big boy's pushing us
all around
that's not how business is done. It's a proven fact that companies
make
different types of the same product for different stores. Iwanted
to get
some T-shirts years ago to make some Chrstmas presents --bought
some Haines
from K-mart and they were so thin that I couldn't use them --I went
looking
for a better brand and wound up buying Haines --just not "the they
made for
K-mart " as the seller said. Why would a good company that makes a
good
product do this?

Forest
with a finally working Norcold




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: moving up from a 1999 Eurovan

 

In a message dated 6/21/08 2:51:31 PM, dane_s_walther@... writes:


I've been considering selling my 1999 EV and getting a newer VR6 Eurovan
(perhaps 2002 or newer).? Seeing as don't know much about the newer VR6 models,
are there any specific items/problems I should check when shopping around?

Thanks,

Dane
Why?
Unless you have over 150,000 miles on the '99, there isn't really much
advantage to getting a 2002 or 2003 (last year made).
The newer ones have the 24v engine, but they also seem to have more problems
such as the transmission and ignition. They also have 16inch wheels and tires,
which has some advantages but currently there are fewer tires available.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC





****
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: driving/fog lights

 

In a message dated 6/21/08 2:49:27 PM, dave_king_ev@... writes:


In a message dated 6/21/2008 2:59:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,?
dave_king_ev@... writes:

Does? anyone use the OEM lights? I see europarts sells them for about
$300? (without the switch and relay and wiring harnesses).

You can buy toys? in autoparts stores for $40 or you can buy good ones
Hella or PIAA for? $400-$1000.

Here's a little reference info:

_
()
_
()
_
()

Does? anyone have any experience with the OEM (that fit perfectly in
the bumper? cover)? What kind of pattern do they have? What kind of
bulb? What wattage?? Are replacement bulbs a VW-only? part?
Hmmmm.......I think those require energy to turn them on??
That will surely impact your carbon footprint. :))

Kent


****
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

gti_matt
 

I've read about the after market radio thing, too. It may be in the
information I read when I bought the vag com. Have you checked their
site?

See:


Re: EVC Electrical Problem

jastamford
 

Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and
another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a
breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... through
the air vents for the heater?

--- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote:

The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
forward of the Converter. The converter is
connected to that tie point, & to
rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
There is another circuit breaker near the rear
bat. When the converter is NOT connected to
shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
firewall relay.

BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
a defective identical 30A breaker inside the
Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so
my rear bat never got a full charge, from
alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
welcomed back 'home'.

BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to
chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
while working on my van.

Jack_son
'03 EVC '01 Passat
===============
--In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote:

Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above the
battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-
breaker
inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and fuse
checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection for
distribution?

--- In ev_update@..., "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:

There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the engine
is
running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear
battery.
A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually
about
$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There
should
be 3
wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts
holding it to the wall.

Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close
to
the
rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it
with
a
non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.

Duane
05HD Rialta


--- In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@>
wrote:

My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged
by
the
altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an
THEN!
I
go on
a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge
cold
while
driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any
juice
at
the
battery with the engine running and the alternator showed
14.5
VDC
output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged the
coach
battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come
to
the
conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the
shoreline and
the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1)
am
I
correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do I
change
it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help.


Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

gti_matt
 

Do you have an aftermarket radio? I had my EVC inspected after I
bought it used & everything was fine with the ODBII, but then had a new
stereo installed & the ODB port no longer worked. Check the archives
for info on this, I think it was even in a VW service bulletin. When I
went back to the radio installer, all he had to do was cut one line.

When I installed mine (bought from Crutchfield) it came with excellent instructions and yes there was one wire, called the K-line, that was not to be connected from the car's harness to the new radio.

Read about it here:


Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)

gti_matt
 

DDL = Daytime Driving Lights. My '03 EVC & '01 Passat have it - not sure about '95 Passat.
'95 Passats in the US and Canada were fitted with DRLs.


Re: driving/fog lights

 

They are standard equipment in 2001-3. I have them but us them
infrequently, mostly for periodically patrolling the neighborhood at slow speed as part
of the Neighborhood Watch program. The lights' pattern is very wide, probably
160 degrees, and short (less than 200 feet). The bulb is an H3, 12v, 55w.
Europarts-sd carries the bulb for $4.50.

Bob W.

In a message dated 6/21/2008 2:59:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dave_king_ev@... writes:

Does anyone use the OEM lights? I see europarts sells them for about
$300 (without the switch and relay and wiring harnesses).

You can buy toys in autoparts stores for $40 or you can buy good ones
Hella or PIAA for $400-$1000.

Here's a little reference info:

_
()
_
()
_
()

Does anyone have any experience with the OEM (that fit perfectly in
the bumper cover)? What kind of pattern do they have? What kind of
bulb? What wattage? Are replacement bulbs a VW-only part?




****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()


Re: Looking for Eurovan curtains!!!

 

I would give Campbell Nelson Auto Recycling at try. The are in
Arlington, Washington but will send stuff anywhere. They seem to
usually have several Eurovans there and I have picked up more than a
few obscure parts for my '93 weekender that were missing; cooler box,
snap in front curtain, back hatch screened curtain, upper bunk pads.
It was a while ago that I was there but there was a van with all the
curtains. There phone number is 1-888-337-7757.
Good luck,
Josh

--- In ev_update@..., "Jan" <antjan@...> wrote:

I have searched and searched. Is there ANYWHERE I can get some
curtains for my '99 Eurovan
MV? help!!
jan


Re: Need a custom gas spring for your top or hatch?

Jim White
 

Stuart MacMillan wrote:
I posted earlier about a source for the OEM gas springs:
www.spdhardware.com, and I just boosted my top from 100 lb lift to 120 lb
lift. It's great, the top opens itself practically. You do need to weigh
over 100 lbs to pull it down though! For my old shoulders, pulling is
easier than pushing!
For those of you who carry stuff on top, or need a custom gas spring for
other things (rear hatch) SPD sells a vented adjustable strut that you can
reduce pressure on until it works properly, then you can send it back and
get a set with your required pressure. Pretty cool:

The top adjustable spring is the SPD-GSVL-3100-250, with the stock spring
being 100 lbs: SPD-GSVL-3100-100, $21.53 each. I think this will also work
for the rear hatch. So, if you have rack on the hatch and want extra lift,
here's how you get it. ...
Verrry interesting!

My rear hatch springs are just fine for just the door and the door with the bike rack (Fiamma Carrybike T4 - looks so good it gives Wolfie some extra pizzaz even without the Cannondale) but not with the bike on it. It would be great to get some springs that worked with the bike on the rack (and given that I'm using ViseGrips to solve the problem currently, I'm likely to need some new ones sooner rather than later... ;-)

Thank you!

Jim & Wolfie sitting out a *very* hot day in SoCal...


Re: Fw: tranny questions again

Judy
 

Thanks-I did have the filter changed with the belated fluid change done at 52K, and I plan to do another fluid/filter change in 2K miles-I hope to get a filler tube from Europarts to make it easier to check fluid level-

The ATF service was not done with the 40K service, but the dealer agreed to do it-after I much later found the info on this list.
Am I better off to go to an ATRA place for the next ATF service, or stick with the dealer (and get parts from Europarts)?

With a cold start, the engine idles fast for about 2 minutes, then slows down, "clicks" at 900RPM, and then it's easier to shift into R.

All advice appreciated!
Judy

----- Original Message ----
From: "Sea2river@..." <Sea2river@...>
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 6:51:45 PM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Fw: tranny questions again

Good advice. It is likely that whoever changed the fluid 6k miles ago may
have failed to have the engine running when topping off the fluid, thus
leaving you a bit short.

Bob W


In a message dated 6/19/2008 1:58:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gti_matt@... writes:

My 2002 EVWK has 58K miles. It's hard to shift into reverse, esp when cold,
and there is an occasional lag.

The lag between P and R, P and R, R and D, etc. is a bit typical of these
transmissions IMHO.

However if you're noticing a significant difference between when cold and
when warm, you probably have any combination of low fluid and/or dirty fluid. I
would have the fluid level checked (you might have a leak). I see you said
that at 52K you had the fluid changed. Did they also change out the filter
too? I'm thinking that since it was changed at 52K (and not necessarily at 40K?)
that you had VERY dirty fluid and probably could be due for another change,
since these changes don't get all of it out. Make sure the filter is changed
as well. While in there, do the pressure adjustment screw mod too
(search/google)H

My questions-are there any signs of a transmisssion about to fail?
I wouldn't think so here. These are more typical of dirty or low fluid.

What is "limp mode"?
Usually does that to protect itself and refuses to go into some of the
higher gears. Doesn't sound like that's what you are experiencing.






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