开云体育

--- psnbsswett <philipswett@...> wrote:

HELP!!! My Eurovan died on me over the weekend. I turn the key, but
whatever connects the iginition swith to the starter is broken. The
starter works fine as long as it can get power, whatever broke is
preventing power from getting to the starter. The battery is fine as
well. Is there a parking break switch, or starter relay that might
have gone out? Where are they located?

Relay would be under the dash where your left shin is but I'm pretty sure the only relay is the
cutoff relay that kills power to certain accessories when cranking.

There is no parking BRAKE switch that affects the starter...it only affects the DRLs and indicator
lamp.

--- psnbsswett <philipswett@...> wrote:

I was running some errands yesterday, my MV was starting fine, no
hesitation whatsoever with when starting. I make a quick stop, get
back in to leave and the car will not start. Plenty of power in the
system, just nothing getting to the starter. It's as if the starter
just got unplugged or something. I looked around for a blown fuse but
found none.

bad ignition switch or the immobilizer isn't recognizing your key?

Wow, you are ambitious! You need to "page" Gomi on the list, he is a
professional VW trained tech. He can answer your questions. Take a lot of
photos as you disassemble, you will thank yourself later.



As for other things to replace, do the transmission while you are at it. It
will likely last about 50k miles more, and then you'll have to go through
this again! Here are two options:
<> on the west coast, and
<>
for the east coast.



What happened to the engine? And, I don't know those designations. Are you
replacing a four cam 201 hp with a two cam 140hp engine?



Good luck!



Stuart

'97 EVC



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of rensho68
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 10:57 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts



I need to replace the long block. Worse yet, I likely need to do it
in my driveway.
Van is an 2002 with 160kmi put on it in 3.5 years (read, a lot of hwy
miles).

I need as much advice as possible, so don't hold back. I'm reasonably
mechanical, have a Bentley CD, engine hoist and stand, good jack
stands. The engine going in is a fully rebuilt BDF long block. I
have a AXK motor now in the van. I was told the water pump is
different, oil pick up and pan are different, and one tranny mounting
hole is not aligned.

Questions:

1. Can I drop the motor out with the van on jack stands?
2. I must/should remove the radiator?
3. Tranny needs to come out with the motor?
4. Do I need to separate the lower ball joints to get the motor out?
5. What things should I replace while I'm doing this? (The engine
comes with all new timing chain components, valvetrain, gasket set.)
I'm replacing the WP, thermostat and housing, tie rods.
6. How many hours should I allocate for this?
7. What special tools do I need?

Hope that warr covers tranny.

This "Warranty America Platinum Plan" should be pretty comprehensive
since it covers "Wear & Tear". The Powertrain warranties I could find
seemed to only cover broken metal and have weasel words that might of
had an out for worn clutch plates, seals, etc. The Powertrain ones
also had contingencies for all service to be done at an ASE mechanic
whereas, the this Platinum plan allows for owner maintenance as long
as you keep receipts and dates -- I plan on taking pictures too.

I justified it to myself as a $500/year insurance plan.

Of course, I haven't tried to file a claim yet ;^)

Besides, now that I've shelled out $2k, the trans will probably be fine.


--- In ev_update@..., SPENCERVW@... wrote:

Lots of grease on the pin stops mine from chirping. Yes it means?you

cant swivel the seat with the jump seat in. Hope that warr covers
tranny. Good luck with your new bus.

Spencer
02mvwk
new tranny 54K


-----Original Message-----
From: jeff_westy <k-and-j.drexel@...>
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Wed, 28 May 2008 8:48 pm
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Weekender Newbie, questions






P.S. The $2k gets me out 4 more years or 120k total miles.

--- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@> wrote:

1) I've minimized the chirping by adjusting the latch pin -- still
chirps, but not as badly.

2) I bought the following "Warranty America Platinum Plan" from




It cost about $2k, but unlike a lot of plans, this one covers "wear
and tear" failures instead of just catastrophic failures. Moreover, it
will cover engine, electrical, AC, etc.

3) I think the swivel base doesn't accept the bracket on the back for
the rear facing seat. Just call Steve and ask for sure.

--- In ev_update@..., "Florian" <fkahlert@> wrote:

congrats to the van... if you get it:).
reg. your point 1. this is a fairly common thing and there are 3
reasons why it happens,none of them serious:
a) check the black ribbon around the edge of the pop top roof on the
outside. In ours it has a tendency to losen and almost slip off in
the front left corner towards the middle and in the rear right

corner.

If its slipping down in the front(you might see a tiny gap btwn the
ribbon and the edge of the roof) you get wind noise.
b) the second reason is that the top wasn't put down carefully. I'd
pop it and then pull it down again, making sure that all fabric

parts

are nicely and carefully tucked in.
c) the third cause would be that the top just isn't sitting tight
enough. You can adjust this by adjusting the pop-top latching

system.

I believe there is a document in the file section that explains

how to

do that.

Can't comment on your 2 and 3 question.
Good luck
Florian 03 MVWK

--- In ev_update@..., "paraportland" <jimlittle@> wrote:

Greetings,

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 2003 Weekender with ~53K
miles. Van looks to be in excellent condition overall, both
mechanical and cosmetic. So... two questions:

1) I've noted a slight "chirping" sounds from the latch on the

poptop

while test driving it. Would be irritating on long drives.

Goes away

if you put one finger on the poptop handle and gently pull

down. Is

this common with these vehicles? Any tips for eliminating it?

2) Extended Warranty: I've read ad nauseum here and at other sites
about the potential transmission problems, procedures for

changing the

fluid, etc. I'm considering getting an extended warranty, but the
prices I've seen online are not encouraging. Most of the plans

that

cover engine/transmission look to be around $2500+ for a 7 yr/100K
coverage. The company Gowesty.com uses doesn't sell direct to
consumers, only to dealers. Does anyone have a reference for a
reasonably priced ($1500 or less) extended warranty that will

cover

major stuff? I'm fine with a reasonably high deductible. If I

can't

find one for reasonable price, I'll probably just "self

insure" and

put some money into savings and hope I don't need it.

3) Can someone with the rear-facing seat/safe combo from

verify for me when they say "doesn't work with rear facing seat

in the

weekender" does that mean you lose ability to put in the

rearfacing

seat at all, or does it just mean you can't rotate the seat

when the

7th passenger seat is installed?

Thanks!

Thanks Jack and Miles.

Part of the fuse holder definitely seems to be missing, and the holder
seems to be of a different design than the other fuses on the
converter as well. Kind of a strange setup - all of the other holders
have threads and a nob, while this one does not have any threads. I'm
not sure what held the fuse in there when it was present. Guess I
probably will need to figure out how to replace the whole holder/fuse
apparatus.

Jack, do you have a part number/name for the battery powered LP gas
alarm? After getting the fuse straightened out, I was going to just
replace the current LP alarm with another wired in model (to be safe,
since the thing is 13 years old). But if there is a battery-powered
substitute available, I'll try that instead. My google searches were
just turning up wired/12V models. I haven't yet taken the alarm off
to check for a battery, but will do that next.

Interesting the fridge won't run on propane with the alarm fuse
removed on the newer EVCs. The Norcold in my 95 runs fine without the
fuse.

Thanks again.

Pete

Lots of grease on the pin stops mine from chirping. Yes it means?you cant swivel the seat with the jump seat in. Hope that warr covers tranny. Good luck with your new bus.
Spencer
02mvwk
new tranny 54K

Also read the fine print. The van I bought came with an extended warranty
and if you read deep into it you will find the oil has to be changed every
3K miles and the tranny fluid every 12K miles. Plus you are not allowed to
tow, etc. They set themselves up pretty good to not pay out. I would still
would have purchased an extended warranty if the van had not come with one.
I would have gotten the powertrain only that covered the tranny and engine
but not the bumper to bumper that would have coved everything else since the
only thing I'm worried about is the AC compressor and I'll risk that one.



Thanks,
Bryan



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of Sea2river@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 9:55 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: Weekender Newbie, questions



The items I would desire it cover include:
AC compressor,
Water pump,
automatic transmission.

Some folks thought their warranty covered such things but after reading the
fine print, were let down. Other folks had their warranty company go out of
business. I chose to save some money and take a chance without additional
coverage.

Good luck,
Bob W.
2001 Weekender with 123,000 miles




In a message dated 5/28/2008 9:48:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
k-and-j.drexel@ <mailto:k-and-j.drexel%40worldnet.att.net> worldnet.att.net
writes:

P.S. The $2k gets me out 4 more years or 120k total miles.

****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(.
<>
aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

P.S. The $2k gets me out 4 more years or 120k total miles.

--- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@...> wrote:

1) I've minimized the chirping by adjusting the latch pin -- still
chirps, but not as badly.

2) I bought the following "Warranty America Platinum Plan" from




It cost about $2k, but unlike a lot of plans, this one covers "wear
and tear" failures instead of just catastrophic failures. Moreover, it
will cover engine, electrical, AC, etc.

3) I think the swivel base doesn't accept the bracket on the back for
the rear facing seat. Just call Steve and ask for sure.

--- In ev_update@..., "Florian" <fkahlert@> wrote:

congrats to the van... if you get it:).
reg. your point 1. this is a fairly common thing and there are 3
reasons why it happens,none of them serious:
a) check the black ribbon around the edge of the pop top roof on the
outside. In ours it has a tendency to losen and almost slip off in
the front left corner towards the middle and in the rear right corner.
If its slipping down in the front(you might see a tiny gap btwn the
ribbon and the edge of the roof) you get wind noise.
b) the second reason is that the top wasn't put down carefully. I'd
pop it and then pull it down again, making sure that all fabric parts
are nicely and carefully tucked in.
c) the third cause would be that the top just isn't sitting tight
enough. You can adjust this by adjusting the pop-top latching system.
I believe there is a document in the file section that explains how to
do that.

Can't comment on your 2 and 3 question.
Good luck
Florian 03 MVWK

--- In ev_update@..., "paraportland" <jimlittle@> wrote:

Greetings,

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 2003 Weekender with ~53K
miles. Van looks to be in excellent condition overall, both
mechanical and cosmetic. So... two questions:

1) I've noted a slight "chirping" sounds from the latch on the

poptop

while test driving it. Would be irritating on long drives.

Goes away

if you put one finger on the poptop handle and gently pull down. Is
this common with these vehicles? Any tips for eliminating it?

2) Extended Warranty: I've read ad nauseum here and at other sites
about the potential transmission problems, procedures for

changing the

fluid, etc. I'm considering getting an extended warranty, but the
prices I've seen online are not encouraging. Most of the plans that
cover engine/transmission look to be around $2500+ for a 7 yr/100K
coverage. The company Gowesty.com uses doesn't sell direct to
consumers, only to dealers. Does anyone have a reference for a
reasonably priced ($1500 or less) extended warranty that will cover
major stuff? I'm fine with a reasonably high deductible. If I

can't

find one for reasonable price, I'll probably just "self insure" and
put some money into savings and hope I don't need it.

3) Can someone with the rear-facing seat/safe combo from

verify for me when they say "doesn't work with rear facing seat

in the

weekender" does that mean you lose ability to put in the rearfacing
seat at all, or does it just mean you can't rotate the seat when the
7th passenger seat is installed?

Thanks!

I was going to get a power train warranty only from
. It was something like $900. The contact
I have is:



Ken Cherry

1-877-739-8363 ext. 1136



Thanks,
Bryan







_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of paraportland
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 2:13 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Weekender Newbie, questions



Greetings,

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 2003 Weekender with ~53K
miles. Van looks to be in excellent condition overall, both
mechanical and cosmetic. So... two questions:

1) I've noted a slight "chirping" sounds from the latch on the poptop
while test driving it. Would be irritating on long drives. Goes away
if you put one finger on the poptop handle and gently pull down. Is
this common with these vehicles? Any tips for eliminating it?

2) Extended Warranty: I've read ad nauseum here and at other sites
about the potential transmission problems, procedures for changing the
fluid, etc. I'm considering getting an extended warranty, but the
prices I've seen online are not encouraging. Most of the plans that
cover engine/transmission look to be around $2500+ for a 7 yr/100K
coverage. The company Gowesty.com uses doesn't sell direct to
consumers, only to dealers. Does anyone have a reference for a
reasonably priced ($1500 or less) extended warranty that will cover
major stuff? I'm fine with a reasonably high deductible. If I can't
find one for reasonable price, I'll probably just "self insure" and
put some money into savings and hope I don't need it.

3) Can someone with the rear-facing seat/safe combo from
.
<

mycart.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4757939&showprevnext=1

verify for me when they say "doesn't work with rear facing seat in the
weekender" does that mean you lose ability to put in the rearfacing
seat at all, or does it just mean you can't rotate the seat when the
7th passenger seat is installed?

Thanks!

On your extended warranty question, I'm pretty sure GoWesty will sell you an AUL
warranty for about $1400 for 2 years, 24,000 miles (powertrain only). They send you an
inspection form you have your mechanic fill out and send back to them. Or go to GoWesty
and they do it for $70, or so. The prices are from a few years ago.

Dave

I am using the Continental Cross Contact tires and really like them for long range comfort. However, they are tall and a bit soft going into the corners, but bite down once you are there. I wish they had stiffer sidewalls however.

Try going through a no-touch car wash with the battery cover off and
you'll quickly realize its utility!

Did you try wiggling the ignition switch? Several folks have reported problems with ignition switches wearing out apparently the contacts do not make a good connection. Hope this helps.

Wiggle the ignition key and see if symptoms change. If so, you need a new
ignition switch (< $10 at europarts-sd dot com). What indicates that the
battery is fine? If you have the original battery, it is likely that you will need
a replacement. Normal battery life is about five years.


Bob W.

The items I would desire it cover include:
AC compressor,
Water pump,
automatic transmission.

Some folks thought their warranty covered such things but after reading the
fine print, were let down. Other folks had their warranty company go out of
business. I chose to save some money and take a chance without additional
coverage.

Good luck,
Bob W.
2001 Weekender with 123,000 miles

Pete -

In my '03 EVC, the LP alarm fuse was not installed,
straight from the dealer. Both the knob and fuse
were missing. Winnie changed to an alarm using a 9V
battery, due to the drain on house battery,

If your LP Gas Detector doesn't have a 9V radio
battery connector inside, then it probably needs
the rear fuse. You may need to buy a complete
extractor AGC or 3AG fuse holder, just to get the
knob part. The ones Winnie used on my EVC are not
a common type, so you may have to replace the
holder. You can buy fuses & holders at Radio Shack,
or an electronic supply house.

Note: With other loads on both batteries, they
drop below 11.5V after a few weeks. If not at
least a weekly driver, you need to trickle charge
them. Harbor Freight has a Float Charger [$10 -
now on sale for $5.97, item # 42292]. "My only
connection with HF is as a customer."

Jack_son
=================================================
--In ev_update@..., "Miles Koppersmith" <miles@...> wrote:

Many of us remove that fuse whenever the EVC is not in use for an

extended

period of time to keep the coach battery from being discharged

which seems

to happen after about 4 to 6 weeks of non use. I always replace

the fuse

whenever we are getting ready to use the EVC because the

refrigerator will

not operate on propane with the alarm fuse removed. As I recall it

was just

a standard automotive type fuse and I picked us a small package at

the auto

supply store or Wal-Mart to have spares when we first purchased the

EVC, but

have never had to use any of the replacements yet. I'll check the

fuse size

when I get home tonight and post for you if no one else provides

the

information before then.

Miles Koppersmith
2002 EVC
-----------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "pfigura2000" <ginkgo@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 9:27 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Magnetek 3200 converter - source for

replacement fuses?

Hello -

It appears that the previous owner of my 95 EVC removed the LP gas
alarm fuse from the power converter (perhaps his solution to the
frequent alarms mentioned in other threads). For better or worse,
we've never worried about it. But now have a newborn who may

wind up

sleeping on the floor of the van from time to time. Suddenly our
safety concerns have magnified, and we'd like to get the LP alarm

up

and running again.

I haven't been able to find replacement fuses. A local RV
sales/repair place person was baffled by the fuses. Does anyone

know

where to find them?

Pete

1) I've minimized the chirping by adjusting the latch pin -- still
chirps, but not as badly.

2) I bought the following "Warranty America Platinum Plan" from




It cost about $2k, but unlike a lot of plans, this one covers "wear
and tear" failures instead of just catastrophic failures. Moreover, it
will cover engine, electrical, AC, etc.

3) I think the swivel base doesn't accept the bracket on the back for
the rear facing seat. Just call Steve and ask for sure.

--- In ev_update@..., "Florian" <fkahlert@...> wrote:

congrats to the van... if you get it:).
reg. your point 1. this is a fairly common thing and there are 3
reasons why it happens,none of them serious:
a) check the black ribbon around the edge of the pop top roof on the
outside. In ours it has a tendency to losen and almost slip off in
the front left corner towards the middle and in the rear right corner.
If its slipping down in the front(you might see a tiny gap btwn the
ribbon and the edge of the roof) you get wind noise.
b) the second reason is that the top wasn't put down carefully. I'd
pop it and then pull it down again, making sure that all fabric parts
are nicely and carefully tucked in.
c) the third cause would be that the top just isn't sitting tight
enough. You can adjust this by adjusting the pop-top latching system.
I believe there is a document in the file section that explains how to
do that.

Can't comment on your 2 and 3 question.
Good luck
Florian 03 MVWK

--- In ev_update@..., "paraportland" <jimlittle@> wrote:

Greetings,

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 2003 Weekender with ~53K
miles. Van looks to be in excellent condition overall, both
mechanical and cosmetic. So... two questions:

1) I've noted a slight "chirping" sounds from the latch on the poptop
while test driving it. Would be irritating on long drives. Goes away
if you put one finger on the poptop handle and gently pull down. Is
this common with these vehicles? Any tips for eliminating it?

2) Extended Warranty: I've read ad nauseum here and at other sites
about the potential transmission problems, procedures for changing the
fluid, etc. I'm considering getting an extended warranty, but the
prices I've seen online are not encouraging. Most of the plans that
cover engine/transmission look to be around $2500+ for a 7 yr/100K
coverage. The company Gowesty.com uses doesn't sell direct to
consumers, only to dealers. Does anyone have a reference for a
reasonably priced ($1500 or less) extended warranty that will cover
major stuff? I'm fine with a reasonably high deductible. If I can't
find one for reasonable price, I'll probably just "self insure" and
put some money into savings and hope I don't need it.

3) Can someone with the rear-facing seat/safe combo from

verify for me when they say "doesn't work with rear facing seat in the
weekender" does that mean you lose ability to put in the rearfacing
seat at all, or does it just mean you can't rotate the seat when the
7th passenger seat is installed?

Thanks!

I left the front bat cover off of my '03 EVC for
a couple of weeks. I noticed water runs over the
bat & adjacent modules. It only takes a leaf or
2 seeds to stop up the tiny drain. The water has
to be extra corrosive - most seems to hit battery.

You should be able to fabricate one from 1/8 inch
Plexiglas, although heavy flexible plastic would
be better. I can't take a pix of mine, but I can
give you approximate dimensions if you contact me
direct. Perhaps someone can take a pix of one mtd.
in place for you.

Jack_son
n=========================
--In ev_update@..., "berkeley5960" <newsie@...> wrote:

Maybe slows down corrosion above by redirecting noxious fumes.

I've had to replace one of my wheel sensors in less than a year of
replacement (can't remember which one, but it was a few $$$).

My mechanic thinks it was due to this very problem: I had to have a
battery replaced almost a year ago because it had been leaking

acid. I

was told that the fumes from that leak had likely rendered the

sensor

kaput.

Maybe slows down corrosion above by redirecting noxious fumes.

I've had to replace one of my wheel sensors in less than a year of
replacement (can't remember which one, but it was a few $$$).

My mechanic thinks it was due to this very problem: I had to have a
battery replaced almost a year ago because it had been leaking acid. I
was told that the fumes from that leak had likely rendered the sensor
kaput.

Thanks, Bruce: I'll file this away.

Karen

--- In ev_update@..., Robert Webster <salsared2004@...> wrote:

Karen

Remove the vent cover (3 or 4 screws), hold the vacuum hose (the

tip on my vacuum is the same diameter as the fridge exhaust pipe) up
against the exhaust (inner) pipe, and turn the vacuum on for a short
time period. Remove the hose, tap lightly on the exhaust pipe with a
hammer, and repeat the vacuuming. I got a lot of soot out of mine and
the fridge worked fine afterwards. However, part of my problem was a
discharged coach battery and soot buildup may not have been a real
problem.

Bruce Webster
'97 EVC

berkeley5960 <newsie@...> wrote:
Bruce: How do you vacuum the vent?

Karen







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]