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I've noticed that newer vans have a vent on the right front fender
just above the bumper. Does anyone know what these are for?
Kevin.

Are you certain the system is adequately charged? There is a low-coolant
cut-out switch on one of the coolant line that can be shorted to test
whether the compressor engages. If the compressor kicks in when the

is shorted then you can conclude your system might only need to be

----------
From: drz400@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans
Date: Thu, Sep 13, 2001, 8:08 PM


Ok, I did some checking and repairs.
The 2 resistors under the left side headlight where broken (old),
Then the auxilary water pump was ceases because of a leaking sensor
wired to it. Both were replaced.
My 50amp fuses are not blowing anynmore.

Now I'm getting to the A/C that is not working.
I tried this afternoon to turn on the contact without starting the
engine and turn on the A/C.
The front fans on the radiator are not starting so I conclude I have
to go through the checks for the 5 relays on top of the left side
headlamp.

Can someone confirm that this will be the 1st step.
Again, my A/C is not starting, the Compressor is not engaging,
and the fans are not starting.

Thanks
Christian

--- In ev_update@y..., "Christian R." <drz400@c...> wrote:

Thank you for the precious information
I will go through the checking this weekend.
Christian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
To: <ev_update@y...>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans

Christian,

Here's a short summary of where the fans and coils and controls

are

located

on your EV, and basically what they do. Remember, these things

work by

moving HEAT around (you don't move "cold" around). You making

something

hotter by moving heat in, and you make something cooler by moving

heat

out.

Fans (two) -- under the hood:

There are two fans under the hood. They work together at all

times and

run

at three different speeds (between each fan and the engine is a

plastic

shutter system than opens and closes by a mechanical lever

controlled by

expanding/contracting wax). The three speeds are controlled by a

set of

relays (behind the driver's side headlight) that determine which

circuit

supplies the fans with current. Those relays send current

through a pair

of

heavy-duty resistors (under the headlight behind an exterior

panel) to set

the various speeds. The entire circuit is protected by three

fuses -- one

inside the EV on the fuse panel (controlling current to the

relays), and

the

other two in the small plastic housing behind the headlights

(controlling

current to each fan). Practically every component mentioned

above will

need

to be repaired/replaced at some point.


Coils (two) -- under the hood:

In front of of the two fans are two coils. One is the radiator,

which

moves

heat out a mixture of water and anti-freeze for the engine and

passenger

compartment heaters, and the other is the evaporator, which moves

heat out

of R134a refrigerant for the air conditioning system. The coils

themselves

will quite possibly last the entire life of the vehicle. There

are a

bunch

of control/sensor/sender components along the coolant lines and

along the

refrigerant lines that will eventually fail and will then need to

be

diagnosed and repaired. The lines and hoses connecting all this

stuff

together are generally very reliable, but there are a few hoses

and

fittings

(just a few) that are known to fail.



Fans (two or three) -- in the cab:

There is a large interior fan under the dash that force passenger
compartment air and/or fresh air through the coils under the

dash. There

is

also a fan on the floor forcing air through another small coil,

and a fan

in

the back (if you have rear air conditioning) forcing air through

yet

another

coil and distributing it through the roof vents. All or these

fans are

multiple speed (determined by resistors) and are protected by

fuses on the

fuse panel. The large interior fan can suffer bearing failure,

and

resistor

packs can fail too.



Coils (three or four) -- in the cab:

Under the dash and near the large interior fan are two coils.

One is the

heater coil, containing a mixture of water and anti-freeze, which

moves

heat

into the cab when the 4-speed fan is running and red/blue

temperature

controls are set the right way. The other coil is a condenser,

containing

R134a refrigerant, which moves heat out of the cab when the 4-

speed fan

is

running and red/blue temperature controls are set the right way.

There is

also a small coil containing water/anti-freeze underneath the

floor near

center of the rear cab for moving heat into the rear. Finally,

if you

have

the rear air conditioning option then there is another coil (a

condenser

containing r134a) for moving heat out of the rear passenger

compartment.

Again, the hoses, lines, fittings and control gizmos connecting

all this

stuff together might fail, but the coils themselves will most

likely last

the entire life of the vehicle.

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<> .








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Are you certain the system is adequately charged? There is a low-coolant
cut-out switch on one of the coolant line that can be shorted to test
whether the compressor engages. If the compressor kicks in when the

is shorted then you can conclude your system might only need to be

----------
From: drz400@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans
Date: Thu, Sep 13, 2001, 8:08 PM


Ok, I did some checking and repairs.
The 2 resistors under the left side headlight where broken (old),
Then the auxilary water pump was ceases because of a leaking sensor
wired to it. Both were replaced.
My 50amp fuses are not blowing anynmore.

Now I'm getting to the A/C that is not working.
I tried this afternoon to turn on the contact without starting the
engine and turn on the A/C.
The front fans on the radiator are not starting so I conclude I have
to go through the checks for the 5 relays on top of the left side
headlamp.

Can someone confirm that this will be the 1st step.
Again, my A/C is not starting, the Compressor is not engaging,
and the fans are not starting.

Thanks
Christian

--- In ev_update@y..., "Christian R." <drz400@c...> wrote:

Thank you for the precious information
I will go through the checking this weekend.
Christian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
To: <ev_update@y...>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans

Christian,

Here's a short summary of where the fans and coils and controls

are

located

on your EV, and basically what they do. Remember, these things

work by

moving HEAT around (you don't move "cold" around). You making

something

hotter by moving heat in, and you make something cooler by moving

heat

out.

Fans (two) -- under the hood:

There are two fans under the hood. They work together at all

times and

run

at three different speeds (between each fan and the engine is a

plastic

shutter system than opens and closes by a mechanical lever

controlled by

expanding/contracting wax). The three speeds are controlled by a

set of

relays (behind the driver's side headlight) that determine which

circuit

supplies the fans with current. Those relays send current

through a pair

of

heavy-duty resistors (under the headlight behind an exterior

panel) to set

the various speeds. The entire circuit is protected by three

fuses -- one

inside the EV on the fuse panel (controlling current to the

relays), and

the

other two in the small plastic housing behind the headlights

(controlling

current to each fan). Practically every component mentioned

above will

need

to be repaired/replaced at some point.


Coils (two) -- under the hood:

In front of of the two fans are two coils. One is the radiator,

which

moves

heat out a mixture of water and anti-freeze for the engine and

passenger

compartment heaters, and the other is the evaporator, which moves

heat out

of R134a refrigerant for the air conditioning system. The coils

themselves

will quite possibly last the entire life of the vehicle. There

are a

bunch

of control/sensor/sender components along the coolant lines and

along the

refrigerant lines that will eventually fail and will then need to

be

diagnosed and repaired. The lines and hoses connecting all this

stuff

together are generally very reliable, but there are a few hoses

and

fittings

(just a few) that are known to fail.



Fans (two or three) -- in the cab:

There is a large interior fan under the dash that force passenger
compartment air and/or fresh air through the coils under the

dash. There

is

also a fan on the floor forcing air through another small coil,

and a fan

in

the back (if you have rear air conditioning) forcing air through

yet

another

coil and distributing it through the roof vents. All or these

fans are

multiple speed (determined by resistors) and are protected by

fuses on the

fuse panel. The large interior fan can suffer bearing failure,

and

resistor

packs can fail too.



Coils (three or four) -- in the cab:

Under the dash and near the large interior fan are two coils.

One is the

heater coil, containing a mixture of water and anti-freeze, which

moves

heat

into the cab when the 4-speed fan is running and red/blue

temperature

controls are set the right way. The other coil is a condenser,

containing

R134a refrigerant, which moves heat out of the cab when the 4-

speed fan

is

running and red/blue temperature controls are set the right way.

There is

also a small coil containing water/anti-freeze underneath the

floor near

center of the rear cab for moving heat into the rear. Finally,

if you

have

the rear air conditioning option then there is another coil (a

condenser

containing r134a) for moving heat out of the rear passenger

compartment.

Again, the hoses, lines, fittings and control gizmos connecting

all this

stuff together might fail, but the coils themselves will most

likely last

the entire life of the vehicle.

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<> .








Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Just looked at a Westfalia this evening. My wife and I were
originally planning on spending around CAD$8000 (USD$5000) on a
Vanagon and then doing a motor swap but came across a '92 Eurovan
Westy for CAD$19,000 (USD$11,875) tonight. It was in immaculate
condition and has 185,000km (115,000 mi) on it.

Every looked good except the motor (Audi 2.5L) made a kind of a
ticking noise. It wasn't exactly a tick sound but similar...maybe a
small exhaust header leak...or maybe it was normal, I'm not sure.
When it first started up, the motor sounded a bit noisy (remotely
similar to a diesel) but smoothed out with 1 or 2 seconds. Now, I've
heard that '93 EVs had a piston slap problem and I am wondering if
that's what I heard on this '92. Opinions?

If it is a piston slap problem, would VW provide a cheap replacement
motor if I'm the 2nd or 3rd owner? Ok, stop laughing, it was worth a
shot.

Is the piston slap problem serious or just an annoyance? Some Jeep
4.0L motors had the same problem but it wasn't supposed to adversely
affect the motor's lifespan (although I've been skeptical).

Anything else I need to watch out for? I might have another look at
it tomorrow in the daylight.

Oh, I do all the work on my wife's Subaru and my Jeep YJ. They're
both really easy to work on. The EV's engine compartment looked very
crowded. Anyone have opinions on that? Is it a real bear to work
with?

When does the timing belt need to be changed and how ugly is the
job? What about the water pump?

One more question: how many miles or km can I expect to get from the
2.5L motor? Has anyone swapped in a VR6? How difficult was the job?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my newbie questions.



...lars





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