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Hello,

Let just say hello to the group I have been lurking here for a little
while now鈥� I am learning a lot and though I do not have a camper or
an automatic transmission I enjoy reading those posts. What I do
have is 1993 Eurovan MV with 177365 miles. I have owned it for three
years and before that barrowed it from my in-laws who I believe were
the second owners. The tachometer has been acting up but I can live
with that. Today the gas gauge was higher than it ever was then it
dropped to empty. My question is that the sender or the gauge? Also
could someone measure the distance from the headliner to the top of
the rearview mirror and tell me the measurement? My father-in-law
glued it and it seems to low.

Thanks for all the help!

Michael D.

Northern California
93 EVMV
03 Passat

Hi Mike,

Look in the Links section in the folder "Repairs, Repair Shop
Reviews, VAG-COM Codes" at the link "Instrument Cluster Intermittent
Water Temperature and Fuel gauge problem".


You'll want to look at the connection of the voltage regulator as
well to make sure it's nice and tight. See the past discussion below.

BD
'01 MV WK

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:00:46 -0700 (PDT), "Mike McCarthy"
<mccarthy_mg@... <mailto:mccarthy_mg%40yahoo.com>> said:

<>

Check out that article for the procedure to remove and reinstall

the

cluster.

BUT, the conclusion -- that there's "cold solder" on the circuit

board

-- is wrong, imo. Having repaired three different clusters, and

having

seen a fourth upgraded cluster where VW eliminated the

problematic

socket entirely, I'm convinced the problem is not "cold solder"

but

rather the problem is the socket itself: it's too loose fitting.

IOW, don't worry about the solder joints holding the socket to

the

circuit board as bamberg advises; they're fine. Instead, remove

the
VR

(remove one screw, then slide it out) and notice that the legs of

the

voltage regulator (VR) slide very easily out of the socket. You

will

notice there's barely any friction at all, and no friction means
unreliable connections.

Then, with the VR entirely removed, hold the VR firmly between

your

thumb and forefinger (your flesh makes a great heatsink, and I
guarantee
you will not overheat and damage the thing if you are squeezing

it

between your fingers) and tin its leads with solder to fatten

them
up.

Then, slide the VR-with-fattened-leads back into the socket (and

note

it
will fit nice and snug), screw it down and then reassemble the

whole

mess. Gauges will work.

--- In ev_update@..., "Mike" <joe_leather@...> wrote:

Hello,

Let just say hello to the group I have been lurking here for a

little

while now鈥� I am learning a lot and though I do not have a camper

or

an automatic transmission I enjoy reading those posts. What I do
have is 1993 Eurovan MV with 177365 miles. I have owned it for

three

years and before that barrowed it from my in-laws who I believe

were

the second owners. The tachometer has been acting up but I can

live

with that. Today the gas gauge was higher than it ever was then

it

dropped to empty. My question is that the sender or the gauge?

Also

could someone measure the distance from the headliner to the top

of

the rearview mirror and tell me the measurement? My father-in-law
glued it and it seems to low.

Thanks for all the help!

Michael D.

Northern California
93 EVMV
03 Passat

I am sure some VRs are loose in the sockets, but I looked closely at
the solder joints on the board when I fixed mine on Saturday. Of the 6
joints on the top right corner of the board, the joints on the far
right were definitely bad and needed to be resoldered, the middle ones
were so-so and the left ones looked okay. On the other hand, I thought
I would be safe and tin the legs of the VR per Mike's recommendation
even though the VR felt snug in the socket. In the end I had to file
most of the solder off the legs to get the VR back into the socket. In
my case I am pretty sure the problem was the solder joints and not the
loose VR.



On 5/13/08, Boone <bdayley@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

Look in the Links section in the folder "Repairs, Repair Shop
Reviews, VAG-COM Codes" at the link "Instrument Cluster Intermittent
Water Temperature and Fuel gauge problem".


You'll want to look at the connection of the voltage regulator as
well to make sure it's nice and tight. See the past discussion below.

BD
'01 MV WK

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:00:46 -0700 (PDT), "Mike McCarthy"
<mccarthy_mg@... <mailto:mccarthy_mg%40yahoo.com>> said:

<>

Check out that article for the procedure to remove and reinstall

the

cluster.

BUT, the conclusion -- that there's "cold solder" on the circuit

board

-- is wrong, imo. Having repaired three different clusters, and

having

seen a fourth upgraded cluster where VW eliminated the

problematic

socket entirely, I'm convinced the problem is not "cold solder"

but

rather the problem is the socket itself: it's too loose fitting.

IOW, don't worry about the solder joints holding the socket to

the

circuit board as bamberg advises; they're fine. Instead, remove

the
VR

(remove one screw, then slide it out) and notice that the legs of

the

voltage regulator (VR) slide very easily out of the socket. You

will

notice there's barely any friction at all, and no friction means
unreliable connections.

Then, with the VR entirely removed, hold the VR firmly between

your

thumb and forefinger (your flesh makes a great heatsink, and I
guarantee
you will not overheat and damage the thing if you are squeezing

it

between your fingers) and tin its leads with solder to fatten

them
up.

Then, slide the VR-with-fattened-leads back into the socket (and

note

it
will fit nice and snug), screw it down and then reassemble the

whole

mess. Gauges will work.

--- In ev_update@..., "Mike" <joe_leather@...> wrote:

Hello,

Let just say hello to the group I have been lurking here for a

little

while now鈥� I am learning a lot and though I do not have a camper

or

an automatic transmission I enjoy reading those posts. What I do
have is 1993 Eurovan MV with 177365 miles. I have owned it for

three

years and before that barrowed it from my in-laws who I believe

were

the second owners. The tachometer has been acting up but I can

live

with that. Today the gas gauge was higher than it ever was then

it

dropped to empty. My question is that the sender or the gauge?

Also

could someone measure the distance from the headliner to the top

of

the rearview mirror and tell me the measurement? My father-in-law
glued it and it seems to low.

Thanks for all the help!

Michael D.

Northern California
93 EVMV
03 Passat

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Mike,

Did you ever get a measurement on the rear view mirror? I need it
also as I bought mine with the rear view mirror on the floor :)

Alon

Hey Michael,

The fuel gauge and temp. gauge can read wrong due to problems with the
Voltage Regulator - I think some of the other replies have mentioned
that. It is a common problem.

I would be more worried about the tach! It does not rely on the
voltage regulator; it gets a signal from the ECM. When I was
struggling with no start/poor start problems on my EV, I also had
intermittent tach problems. I am 99% sure the issues were caused by a
bad ground in the ECU wiring harness. There are three different
grounds, and one of mine (wire #13, brown with white stripe) had a
4,000-ohm resistance to ground. I fixed it, but too late - the ECM
had quit, and these are not cheap or easy to find.

Since replacing the ECM and fixing the ground about a month ago, the
tach has been 100% fine and my EV always starts & runs.

I can't help with the headliner as my van is a weekender pop-top so
that part is different...

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

If the temp gauge still works can I rule out the voltage regulator?

Michael
'93 EV MV




Hi Mike,

Look in the Links section in the folder "Repairs, Repair Shop
Reviews, VAG-COM Codes" at the link "Instrument Cluster Intermittent
Water Temperature and Fuel gauge problem".
. groups.yahoo. com/group/ ev_update/ links/

You'll want to look at the connection of the voltage regulator as
well to make sure it's nice and tight. See the past discussion below.

BD
'01 MV WK

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:00:46 -0700 (PDT), "Mike McCarthy"
<mccarthy_mg@ yahoo.com <mailto:mccarthy_ mg%40yahoo. com>> said:

. 50megs.com/ EV_instrument. htm

<. 50megs.com/ EV_instrument. htm>

Check out that article for the procedure to remove and reinstall

the

cluster.

BUT, the conclusion -- that there's "cold solder" on the circuit

board

-- is wrong, imo. Having repaired three different clusters, and

having

seen a fourth upgraded cluster where VW eliminated the

problematic

socket entirely, I'm convinced the problem is not "cold solder"

but

rather the problem is the socket itself: it's too loose fitting.

IOW, don't worry about the solder joints holding the socket to

the

circuit board as bamberg advises; they're fine. Instead, remove

the
VR

(remove one screw, then slide it out) and notice that the legs of

the

voltage regulator (VR) slide very easily out of the socket. You

will

notice there's barely any friction at all, and no friction means
unreliable connections.

Then, with the VR entirely removed, hold the VR firmly between

your

thumb and forefinger (your flesh makes a great heatsink, and I
guarantee
you will not overheat and damage the thing if you are squeezing

it

between your fingers) and tin its leads with solder to fatten

them
up.

Then, slide the VR-with-fattened- leads back into the socket (and

note

it
will fit nice and snug), screw it down and then reassemble the

whole

mess. Gauges will work.

--- In ev_update@yahoogrou ps.com, "Mike" <joe_leather@ ...> wrote:

Hello,

Let just say hello to the group I have been lurking here for a

little

while now� I am learning a lot and though I do not have a camper

or

an automatic transmission I enjoy reading those posts. What I do
have is 1993 Eurovan MV with 177365 miles. I have owned it for

three

years and before that barrowed it from my in-laws who I believe

were

the second owners. The tachometer has been acting up but I can

live

with that. Today the gas gauge was higher than it ever was then

it

dropped to empty. My question is that the sender or the gauge?

Also

could someone measure the distance from the headliner to the top

of

the rearview mirror and tell me the measurement? My father-in-law
glued it and it seems to low.

Thanks for all the help!

Michael D.

Northern California
93 EVMV
03 Passat

NO! There is circuitry on each side of the board. One can be ok but the other bad.

Joe R

I had the usual suspects of guage issues and dash light issues on my
cluster last summer. I could reach behind the board and move the multi-
pin connector and things would start working. I replaced the VR and
soldered it directly to the board......still the same issues. I then
tested the old VR and found it to be fine.

So I went over the solder joints with a fine tooth comb using a
magifier and found several cracks. Some of the cracks were in the
connections to the multi-pin connector. It took a couple of passes and
testing until I got things right, but things have now worked great for
a year.

I'm not saying VR issues don't exist, but it clearly was not the
problem on my 95.

Pete

If Mike was still here he would tell you that you are wrong, and to
expect further problems in the future. I on the other hand, with
real world experience, would say that it is true that the solder
joints on the board can crack and separate, and that you need to go
over all the pins if possible, at least heat them to see if the
solder "drops through" to the other side. If so, add a little solder
to firm them up. Of course, it can't hurt to tin the ends of the VR
like Mike has espoused.
gomi_

--- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...>
wrote:

I had the usual suspects of guage issues and dash light issues on

my

cluster last summer. I could reach behind the board and move the

multi-

pin connector and things would start working. I replaced the VR and
soldered it directly to the board......still the same issues. I

then

tested the old VR and found it to be fine.

So I went over the solder joints with a fine tooth comb using a
magifier and found several cracks. Some of the cracks were in the
connections to the multi-pin connector. It took a couple of passes

and

testing until I got things right, but things have now worked great

for

a year.

I'm not saying VR issues don't exist, but it clearly was not the
problem on my 95.

Pete