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Please leave the long signature lines at home. Most especially, those involving sports, politics, or religion. Do not respond to this on the list. -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD

The main purpose of a schematic is to communicate how a circuit is connected and operates. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/28251/rules-and-guidelines-for-drawing-good-schematics https://www.k-state.edu/edl/docs/pubs/technical-resources/Technote8.pdf https://www.ae7hd.com/2023/05/how-to-draw-schematic-diagrams-by-paul.html -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /stabilock si4015/stab files By: Paul M3VUV <nanovnauser@...> Description: more info

Looking for good recommendations on a battery powered soldering iron. Precision work is a requirement, doesn’t need to work for hours on end, 1/2 hour every now and then is enough. Any recommendations from your experience? Thank you Nuno T. -- Nuno T.

Paul M3VUV <nanovnauser@...> added folder /stabilock si4015 Description: service info etc

I have the si 4015 that fail self tests The faults are: power supply ok computer related test failed. data modual ok mod.gen ok demodulator failed duplex related test failed synthesysizer related test failed rf unit related test failed

I am using an SI5351 to generate 10Mhz and 100Mhz digital reference signals via 50ohm 5m long BNC cables but the SI5351 seems to struggle producing a reasonable square waveform at 10Mhz. What would be the best buffer circuit for this application? and could the same work for 100Mhz ?? Regards, Dave

Need advice and thoughts from the experts. PCB on window control on 2005 Colorado. There are many SMD components. One came off. It has stamped on top G1 which from google searches is an NPN transistor similar to common 2N2222. There are several more. From schematics for the vehicle that transistor powers a relay which raises the RR window. I managed to resolder in place and the window operated fine several times but came off again later. I think the pads are damaged as one is very small (collector lead) so I’m not surprised. Two things I’ve considered doing: 1) solder a 2n2222 in its place. 2) I found a similar control board at the salvage shop. The transistors have a different number though. BR02. What’s the chances?

I presently employ an X-10 Appliance Module and their 113A Mini Timer to control a 50AMP relay's 120VAC coil that switches power to our water heater. Basically the water heater is only powered twice daily for fifteen minutes each. Of course, we can switch the circuit on from a variety of X-10 control devices should we need more hot water for any reason. I thought to look at latching relays thinking the ability to pulse the relay at each START time and again at each END time might prove move efficient sine we are not powering the relay coil save for the second or so it takes the PULSE to switch its state. I found a video (o n YouTube) demonstrating how it might be controlled from several independent locations via momentary contact witches - "Impulse Relay (Latching Relay) Basic Function, Wiring and Application." So, assuming I can find a similar relay rated to switch the power to a water heater, I need a way to automate sending it a PULSE four times daily. I have mechanical timers that are able to turn the power on for several minutes - you know, the one's you plug a lamp into to give the impression you're at home when you're not - but they are imprecise. I would prefer something digital if there is such a thing on the market. Any ideas? -- G.T.

Googol it - there's lots of options. You can get one from Amazon, test it out and may decided to return it and go with an AliBaba or Temu Buck Booster. I suspect that is what's in the 'brick' that lies between vehicle output an laptop input. Looks as if the proces are 'all over' the map. 14% OFF Lenovo 65W USB-C DC Adapter 40AK0065WW. 14% OFF. Lenovo 65W USB-C DC Adapter 40AK0065WW $59.95 Amazon.com - Seller & more Lenovo Open Source 65W DC Travel Adapter. Lenovo Open Source 65W DC Travel Adapter $29.00 Amazon & more Lenovo 65W USB-C AC Travel Adapter. Lenovo 65W USB-C AC Travel Adapter $79.99 Lenovo & more Lenovo 65W GaN Power Adapter. Lenovo 65W GaN Power Adapter $52.46 Amazon.com - Seller & more Lenovo 65W USB-C Wall Adapter. Lenovo 65W USB-C Wall Adapter $39.99 Lenovo & more 58% OFF Lenovo 65W AC Adapter. 58% OFF. Lenovo 65W AC Adapter $24.89 Amazon.com - Seller & more Lenovo Square Port 65W Power Adapter. 55% OFF. Lenovo Square Port 65W Power Adapter $2.95$7 Walmart - Seller & more 5.0(7) 65W Type-C USB C AC/DC Power Charger Adapter. 65W Type-C USB C AC/DC Power Charger Adapter $38.99 Amazon 65W Type-C USB C AC/DC Power Charger Adapter $38.99 Amazon -- G.T.

Hi all, I have a Lenovo laptop that currently uses an AC power supply (135W). I think the output is aprox 20V. I'd like to be able to run it from the RV batteries (typically 12 to 13V) without the need for an inverter. I think the major issue is the current draw. 135W at 20V can draw 6.75A so a 12V boost converter would probably draw 11.25+ Amps. Any thoughts on how best to achieve this? Luke

Hello,I have created a circuit shown below in ltspice using tsmc 180nm mosfets. unlike the standart way where we bias the mosfets using the large signal furmulas ,I would like to bias the M3,5,1,2 into saturation while M4,6 needs to be linear using charactersitics plots . How can I make these setting in the circuit below? Photos and Ltspice files are attached. Thanks. /g/electronics101/files/2.zip

Hello , I am trying to follow the example shown in the manual below. In step 3 they find the proper W/L using mathematical expressions. However I know that these formulas are aproximations ,the realistic way is to usr characteristic plots. What caractestics plots you reccomend me to use in order to get the proper W/L? https://aicdesign.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/lecture19-150211.pdf Thanks.

I know this is way off base but I have two friends that asked me about this problem. They are getting popups from Norton and MaCafee that I can not get rid of. I have added the links to the "Do Not Allow" under notifications and they still appear. Doing a search on Google only brings up paid for apps. I suspect these popup are not from the associated sites directly. On one of these PC's I have downloaded the MaCafee removal tool and that also did noy stop the popups. Norton was never installed on both these PC's. I figures there has to be some very knowledgeable folks lurking that might be able to help. Thanks, wings515

There were no GRAPHICS in his post. It was a URL to a Video. -- G.T.

It is unfortunate that wn4isx felt he had to leave over a group policy set years ago - possibly when YahooGroups abandoned E101. All 'my' Yahoo groups moved to Groups.io as a result of Yahoo leaving the Free Groups out in the ether. Not the first time this happened to 'my' groups. I think my first was started in 1989 as an text based email thing whose name I cannot recall. It may have lasted a year or so before being absorbed by another company and forcing 'group owners' to make some adjustments. Then, as I recall, they were absorbed by Yahoo - more changes, more learning curve. Frankly, I never 'mastered' YahooGroups management and discovered features after they announced I had to find another application that would allow me to carry 'my' groups into yet another decade. And, here, running a few on Groups.io, I find myself learning as I go and folks like wn4isx stumble about learning the intricacies of the various 'features' Groups.io touts as improvements to such groups as 'ours' much as Windows keeps changing this, that or the other to justify charging for a new OS or App only to frustrate existing customers who were happily learning some (if not all) of the last tranche of 'features' they never asked, but had to pay for. In researching this issue of file and photo attachments policies I am not sure I discovered just where the policy referenced was set (could be 'unset'/disabled) but I did come across a page toting up the graphics and files stored in the archives along with a graph depicting the megabytes consumed in relation to those allowed on a 'free' group. As I do not share moderator or owner status for this group, I cannot attest to what that graph might indicate for 'us.' However, It may well prove significant in that the only way to increase the group's capacity for such storage is to pay for it! And, if you thought managing a group was tough, try getting members to reimburse you for the cost of maintaining it. As to the rambling OFF TOPIC discussions over the Administration of this group, there is a better way to handle things. They involve #hashtags (some of which needed to be set when the group was created - but can be added now or later), About subgroups, and About group chats. The last two should make it easier to effectively take these 'off topic' discussions off to the side and by and between those members consumed by the need to resolve them within the constraints imposed on a FREE group. The #admin Hashtag, as I understand it, allows such topics to be segregated and, thus more readily available as a reference going forward. I would suggest that those here with privileged status create the - suggested hashtags, and form and #admin subgroup (sort of a 'board of directors) and then commit to doing the research (big help files!), having the discussion, forming a decision, then advising the group as a whole of the contemplated decision and inviting any comments to the admin subgroup or group owner (as opposed to the group as a whole). In the interim, consider approving all 'on topic (e.g. E101)' posts regardless attachments and such until 'the board' feels it has completed sufficient research to competently adjust the settings of this group so as to keep it FREE as well as functioning as intended/hoped. GT -- G.T.

I joined this group because it looked like fun and I didn't expect it to take up a lot of time. In the main, it has been fun, some minor issues with one member but nothing insurmountable. I hope most of my posts have been useful and I didn't cause too much confusion trying to 'enforce' what I thought were the rules for posting graphics in this group. I am sorry for any angst I caused. I like rules, imagine what it would be like if we weren't expected to drive on the proper side of the road. [which is why I'll never visit England.] However I've taken a hard look at how I spend time during the day, what rewards I get versus the time spent, and changes that could make my life more satisfying, and, I've come to the conclusion being a member of this group eats up time that would be better spent listening to shortwave, playing guitar, or doing any number of other things. Therefore, it won't be necessary for any other owner to remove my owner status because I'm leaving the group effective immediately and my last act as an owner will be to lock this post. There isn't any reason for anyone to reply, especially if they expect me to see their reply. The email I used to join this group has turned into a spam magnet, I'm receiving upwards of 100 spam messages a day and I've waded through Micro$loth's inane 'close this email account' process. For reasons only known to Micro$loth it takes 45 to 60 days for them to actually close the account. I don't know if senders receive any notification the account is either closed or being closed.

Hello , In the manual shown in the link the author says that the point I sighed in red arrow is floating at 2:46 and 32:20 time of the video. How is this floating happening? every potential needs reference, Why the pair of BJT shown in the red arrows is creating floating point? Thanks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYOe7JOidHk

Hello,In the circuit below I have Vc>Vb. I need some how to make Vb larger then Vc. I there a method using R1 R2 and R3 which could swith the Vbc junction state? Given the circuit how can I make the Vcb juntion reversed biased? Thanks. Ltspice file is attached. /g/electronics101/files/john233/03_04_25.zip

Strictly speaking this isn't electronics but I've noticed many people who are into electronics also play guitar (and conversely, many people who play guitar are into electronics.) I've "played" guitar since I was 12, the first years things were kind of ragged but more because I had a batbox instead of a decent guitar. I've hated changing strings, really dislike with an unhealthy intensity. A friend suggested "locking guitar tuners." ok them up, [also look up "locking tuners" you'll get some different hits) There are so many different brands and the quality appears to vary with a brand randomly over time. It takes me all of 10 minutes to change guitar strings now. Another thing that is at least electrical in nature is never cut a high B or E around an electrical outlet. https://sound-au.com/guitar-string.html While most AC outlets with a male plug in it is at risk the US NEMA 5-15R, if mounted "improperly", is especially at risk. Heck, even if it's mounted properly it is still at risk. FWIW, the NEC now requires the grounding connector be placed on top "where practicable." This reduces the risk of a metallic object falling in the outlet and getting welded between hot and neutral. Don't laugh, I've seen it happen 3 times in my life, all involved coins. And if a bit of flying B/E string lands inside your tube amp while it's on....things can get way too interesting way too fast. That's never happened around me but I've talked with guitarists who lost amps they really liked. It is a good idea to wear safety glasses and use a small pair of hemostats to clip on to the end that is being cut. The mass of the hemostat causes the hemostat and string to fall straight down. But be aware, some police consider hemostats drug paraphernalia. They'd lock me up and weld the jail door shut if they saw my collection of hemostats, alligator clips and laboratory glassware.