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Ok, so score one for reading the manual and double checking everything. I think my adventure with the charger was a red herring. Looking at the cables carefully, the cable from the battery to the contactor had succumbed to its twist, and the ring terminal slipped out of the boot and around until it touched the pole of the key switch. The Sevcon was doing it’s job and alerting me to the problem! Re-running the cable to have the twist pull the other direction and tightening the nut/boot cleared everything up. Thank you for the suggestions!

So I had everything working, and at a certain point I plugged in the charger for the batteries and attempted to spin the motor at the same time. At this point the sevcon resorted to a fault with the LED flash in six times. From the manual the six flashes seem to indicate over or under voltage on input or output or throttle greater than 20% at start up. I checked all of the cables again. I tried disconnecting the power and reconnecting with the foot stays. The voltage meter is showing 53.6 V. I have disconnected the charger, Put everything back how it was. The fault is still indicating. Any idea how to reset it?

So my appointment with the crane to vanquish the Diesel engine and begin the electric install is on Monday. I plan to clean and paint the whole engine room. Any tips from those of you that have done the conversion on things to do in prep for the electric install or things you wish you had done when the engine room was empty? Also, any advice on routing the AC ground wire? Previously it was attached to the Deisel and I assume grounded through the shaft and prop, I’ve seen conflicting advice about this. Some say it’s bad for the prop zincs?

Hi, this is my first post, but I enjoy reading your discussions about electric propulsion. I am looking for a recommendation on trolling motor power. I have a 10’ dinghy that eventually I will power with a Torqeedo outboard, but for now, a much more affordable trolling motor will have to do. I am looking at a 24V motor, requiring up to 50A maximum. I will be doing short trips (less than 1 hr), and I want to keep the battery weight to a minimum, as I lift my dinghy onto stern davits. Any recommendations on a 24V battery or pair of 12V batteries in series that fit my needs? Thanks, Allan

How have you folks mounted the sevcon controller? With the heat sinks on there doesn’t seem to be a natural way to mount it. Do you put it on rods? Or mount it with the heat sinks up against a panel? Pictures anyone? Thanks!

Hi all - first time poster. I think I have some insights to the calculator question, but maybe not a totally straight forward answer. What's missing in traditional calculators like VicProp is the torque that the electric motor brings to the party. The electric motor can supply almost constant torque across its RPM range and near full torque from the time you turn it on. So there's a mathematical relationship that predicts this power discrepancy and uncovers the false assumption that electric hp can be treated like ICE hp. Mathematically, horsepower equals torque multiplied by rpm. Or, torque of one newton-meter, twisting a shaft at an angular speed of one radian per second, requires a power of one watt. So power is torque times angular speed (with no extra constants or conversions if you work everything in radians and SI units). So for the same angular velocity (RPM) the electric motor has all of its torque available starting at zero RPM, an ICE does not, and will not until the RPM gets sufficiently high. Thus the exaggerated discrepancies seen at slower speeds. Given enough time and brain cells one could likely develop a compensation factor for typical ICE hp, but it would have to be non-linear due to the non-linear torque of the ICE. I've seen a 5:3 hp ratio tossed around in the electric car communities, but this does nothing to compensate for exaggerations at slower speeds. Might get you in the ballpark though.

On Monday, 6/22/20, I conducted my first on the water Lake trial with my electric conversion, "Mischief". Mischief is a home built plywood runabout, currently powered with a Torqeedo 4R outboard. Specs are below: LOA: 13' 4" (without motor) Beam: 5'9" Weight: about 300-400# Draft: approximately 6-7", with motor up. Theoretical Hull Speed: 4.9mph Motor: Torqeedo 4R electric outboard (with remote steering) 48V, max 4000W input Battery: Main battery bank: 48V 50Ah eBike battery system from BTR (ordered on Amazon) (approx $900) Backup / get home battery: 48V 20Ah eBike Battery system from BTR (under $500) Both battery systems were bench tested. For each test, the battery was fully charged, and then connected to sets of #9006 12V halogen light bulbs (4 bulbs in series gives a 48V load at about 4A). Time and voltage were recorded periodically until the battery BMS shut down the voltage output from the battery. Tests were conducted with 4, 8, and 16 bulbs (max was 4 parallel sets of 4 bulbs, approximately 800-900W). I have the data on these tests, if anyone is interested. At the lake!! First test was a static test of running the boat at the boat ramp (the motor needs to be in the water when running). The motor was run at 1000W, and ran for approximately 45 min before the BMS dropped out, on the 20Ah battery. The BMS dropped out at about 48V. (The BMS on the 50Ah battery drops out at around 40V.) The first "on the water" test lasted for approximately an hour, and used approximately 30-50% of the capacity of the 50Ah battery bank. Performance of the boat consistently met expectations. Handling was great. As long as you're ok with a walking speed cruise - the boat performed very well. Volts Amps Watts MPH 58.2 5.15 300 3 57.0 6.5 370 3.5 56.8 8.80 500 3.9 57.7 10.4 600 4 56.0 15.71 880 4.9 57 17.54 1000 5 56 26.79 1500 5.7 I've attached a couple of pictures of the boat. Please let me know if they don't come across. If anyone would like more details, feel free to contact me. John

I am at the beginning of a conversion for a 32’ ketch, and I have the 10kw thunderstruck kit, charger, reduction, and battery bank all working on my bench under artificial load. She will be at a dock soon where I can pull the diesel and begin refitting with the EV drive. The boat has an existing house system with four 6v golf cart batteries in 2p2s for both the 12v house loads and the starting motor, along with two 50w solar panels and a charge controller. During the summer in the Pacific NW the solar keeps up with the house loads at anchor all summer, she is usually at a dock plugged in for much of the winter. I originally intended to leave all the existing 12v system in place, and keep the 48v ev system separate, but I’m realizing that once the old motor comes out, it’s really prime time to simplify as many things as possible, so I’m wondering about the necessary equipment and pros/cons of running the house load off of the same battery bank as the EV (right now I am working the EV with 4x 12v 200ah AGM in 4s). What becomes complicated or inefficient about running them together (with a 48v to 12v step down) vs having separate systems? I halfway thought that I would try leaving the existing house system as-is, adding the EV with the AGM bank separately, and if it is all working well, then switching the EV drove to a m bank of lifepo4 and rewiring the AGM bank in 4p at 12v, replacing the older system which is nearing end of life in the next few years anyway. But I also am drawn to the simplicity of only having one set of batteries to worry about for all loads. What are the practical considerations that you guys have encountered for each scenario? My boat will mostly be used for crushing near shore, likely with power though most winters, and at anchor or underway in summers.

Nice ride! Capt. Carter www.shipofimagination.com

Jerry, Not that I need yet another project.... but.... I would love to hear more about this motor as you gain experience with it (though I no longer see it listed - maybe my search is bad?) Is this motor tiller controlled only, or is there a remote control option.

I have a Creighton 32 foot boat, which is fitted with a electric engine (the engine came out of a milk float) The engine works very well. BUT the controller only has one speed full on forward, and full on backwards. I can not control the speed, the onlyway of slowing it down is to turn the engine of, but this is dangerous as then I loss rudder control. What I need to know is there a better controller out there that I can control the speed of my boat. I need help, I'm in the Merseyside area. Thanks Graham

We are planning the parallel hybrid on our powercat. At the moment, the thought is to attach a plate to the existing shaft-gearbox coupler (which I assume is there for some flexibility, like a more modern flexible coupling?) - see photo below at centre. It has 4 bolts, and I think it could take a machined circular disc with width enough for a serpentine belt (to take the power of 10kW or so!) and cutout centre for the prop shaft. So some questions for the world :)... - can we add in the plate and use longer bolts against that coupler? - how big a serpentine do we need to run 10kW through it? - if we bolt onto the shaft side of the coupler, where there is space, can we sit the electric motor on the hull rather than the engine, since the coupler should have taken all the engine movement out of the equation? - can we use a split plate with 2 bolts each instead of a single? If so, maintenance could be a lot easier! - would steel be right for the plate? Given all that “thinking”, I need some mechanical genius to tell me I’m wrong and work with me on making it right - does anyone know someone like that in the Solent area (boat) or Australia (us right now)? Rob

We are in planning to parallel hybridise our 50' powercat. One of the questions (of many!) is the genset. We have an old Onan 6.5kW AC. We would probably remove it. But we will need more than solar to keep us going for many hours at slower speeds (higher speed = diesels). Do we go with large alternators off the diesels (maybe get 2kW off each) to supplement solar, or 1-2 gensets as main power supplemented by solar? 2kW or even 4kW isnt going to be enough, so big alternators are probably out. Given AC gensets are more common, and the i-series from fisher panda are variable speed, is there a lot of difference in this application to use AC or DC? Also, apart from some obvious points, are there any advantages/disadvantages in two small units vs one? The i-series can parallel each other which seems an advantage for 2 units... Thanks Rob

I'd like to put a contactor or solid state relay between my battery and motor so that I can use a simple toggle switch to turn on/off the battery. Longer term, the bms could disable the battery, or I could even select between battery banks. But for now, starting simple with an electrically controlled switch for the battery. I'm using a 48V system. Typical max operating current may be as low as 20A, but could get spikes up to 50A. I've looked at DC solid state relays. And even found some rated up to 48V. The problem is that when you read the fine print and reviews - even the 100A SSR's are not rated for anywhere near that amount of current for constant usage. (arrrgh!!) I then started looking at "contactors", and eventually ended up looking at 48V golf cart solenoids. I've always thought of a "solenoid" in this case as being a really big relay. It looks like the 48V golf cart solenoids should work for this application: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P3GYXFX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AIMSKPF2F52QN&psc=1 (Note - I'm on fresh water, and the solenoid would be in a plastic case - so I'm not worried about corrosion.) Is that what I'm looking for, or do I need something that's more "heavy duty"? I saw references to using a flyback diode on the control contacts - and that seemed like a good idea. Anything else I need to know? Thanks! John

Any recommendations on a battery charger for 48v 200ah AGM?

I'm looking into re-battery and a general re-jigging of my system. I've been running a 36v system but never running the controller over 50% throttle. Now that my T145s have shown signs of needing to be replaced after 11years, i'm thinking of going LiFePO ? on 48v and putting a 2:1 reduction on my Perm 132 perm mag motor. This would enable the motor to run faster at lower amps (cooler) and also have the motor running most of the time in the 'forward' direction. At my power output and voltage that the motor is running in reverse most of the time isn't actually a problem, but the brushes may last just that little bit longer with the motor running the 'correct' way. :-) Any one have any points to a high efficiency gearbox of approx 2:1 ratio ? Most of the examples I've found so far also include clutches, a feature not needed here. About 2.4-3kw moves my boat at hull speed, so I don't need something of high power capability.

Silly question... Though I hope to get several answers! Why 16 cells? These are 3.2V nominal cells, right? They charge up to 3.65V, and can discharge down to 2.2V? So, to give plenty of margin, maybe run between 2.75V for a low, and max of 3.5V? For 15 cells, that gives: 41.25 to 52.5. For 16 cells, that would be: 44 to 56V It would seem like the 15 cells hits the 48V range easily enough. Are people rounding up to 16 cells just so that they have an even number to work with?? As one example, the Torqeedo 4R has a lower limit cutoff (assuming Li and not lead) of 42V (lead setup is 36V) - so a 15 cell configuration would work reasonably. Just curious what the thoughts were here. Thanks, John

Long time Lurker... but I always promised myself when it came time to re-power my 27’ Ericsson I would go electric. The Yanmar is totally seized ( LOOONG SAD STORY). Looking for the solution to doing an electric re-power once we get out of the Covid Funk and I have some income again... best recommendations ? Richard

Hello all, I'm a longtime lurker, this is my first post, so please, be gentle. We have lived on our 39' sloop for about 5 years now and are ready to convert to hybrid...this is the plan I've come up with and am looking for your critical analysis. The boat is a custom build. It displaces about 18000 lbs all full, has a 3/4 length "scheel" keel, and only draws about 50". We currently have a very good running yanmar 3gm30f that turns a 17" 2 blade max prop. We've put in about 20k nm over the past few years and she solidly averages 6kts. The engine is in the middle of the boat under the galley sink and makes A LOT of noise and stink and we're sick of it. We've got a little extra time and money so we think this project could go a long way. The plan - 48V 12KW Thunderstuck ME1616 kit - currently its on backorder - with a 3:1 gear reduction - About 15kw lithium battery bank (right now Thunderstruck has Valence 1.6kw batteries used for $350 each, so 8 of these, and the VC1 BMS they sell, I think would be easy to install and work well.) - A 3.5-4kw diesel generator that is PURELY for recharging batteries using the thunderstruck TSM2500 kit with 2 chargers. This should get me 70amps at 48volts running from 240VAC. This is important because we live at anchor in the PNW year round. We often have a long way to go with no wind, or sun and generally avoid marinas. I will buy this used or rebuilt to save dollars. - Run existing loads off of a DC-DC converter - We have 500W of PV installed with 12V Victron charge controllers that keeps up with our daily usage. I would like to get them putting electrons into the 48v bank and am wondering if there is a work-around with DC to DC converters or something so I don't have to buy all new CCs. I will be doing this install myself. I'm confident with basic stuff like solar installs and alternators but this project will be a little out of my comfort range, I'm very much looking forward to it. What is most important to me is to keep the system as simple and user friendly as possible mostly for resale purposes. Any advice/comments/questions/trashtalk would be appreciated. Matt

Hi, does anyone have any suggestions on where I can buy a used GOOD QUALITY electric boat for a good price? Also open to hearing offers. Thanks