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Hello, unfortunately I have to abandon my project for now, I will probably do it again in the future but now I need to sell everything, I have many things, but among the main 16 LifePO4 Prismatic Cells + Box + BMS Golden Motor BLDC 48v 10 KW Liquid Cooled + Controller + Joystick Throttle If anyone is interested, they can contact me by email or Facebook, I have much more that I will publish in the next few days, greetings!

I have a 32' Bayliner sailboat (now dismasted) that I've gutted and am turning it into an electric hybrid. It has an 8 battery (185 a/h 12 volt each) battery bank of AGM Oddysey batteries to power a (to be purchased) ElectricYacht 2.0, 48 volt motor drive system. I have 8 solar panels, 100watts each to augment the two Fischer Panda 48 volt 10kw diesel gen. sets. I've taken the 13' mainmast spar and am stepping it where the main master was, with a 500watt wind generator mounted on top. To flesh it out a bit more, I've installed a separate 4 battery bank forward as the house batteries, with a 200watt PV on the forward cabin top to keep them topped up. Having said all that, I'd like to configure the 800 watt set of PVs to meet the 48 (actually need 54-6) volt requirement to charge the 8 battery bank but also maximize amperage. 10-11amps/hrs isn't much to plug into a 370amp bank. The ElectricYacht will need roughly 60 amp/hr for a 3.5-4knot speed, up to 270 amps/hrs to reach a 7- 7.5 knot hll speed. The gen sets can run the motors by themselves and/or charge the batteries but I would like to get as much quiet time propulsion as possible. The gen. sets only put out 60 decibels of noise but would like to keep their use to a minimum. How would you do the overall PV / wind turbine configuration, and voltage and amperage to the battery bank? Should I utilize one 4 185amp 48 volt bank at a time or use and charge both at the same time? Other insight would be appreciated. Thanks so much. Dale

Hi all, I monitor this group a lot but rarely contribute. That's going to change. While powering over a current over a bar here in Oregon, my v drive ended with a loud bang followed by a grinding noise and no power to the prop. Well I will use this opportunity to go electric. In talking to the thunderstruck guys, they suggest 18 or even 24 kw (40 ft Valiant) . I thought why not just use their reduction drive and go with 120 for the house and the aux? Advantages... More power to aux Standardized wiring (cheaper) Home appliances (cheap) Solar to 120, gen to 120 easy to do. Dis Marine stuff is mostly 12 volt. So will need step down for instruments, radar etc What do you think...anybody done this? Why not?

I was wondering if there are folks here who are located in Lake Ontario and would be willing to help me assess the system that is on my boat that the previous owner put together. I obviously need to get up to speed on this but as this board demonstrates often, there are many considerations and it would be nice to have a sense from someone else who has diagnostic tools and the like. My boat is located now in Sakets Harbor.

Hi Folks, This past season was the first one for me using my Pearson 10M but was a somewhat shorter one due to some health issues of my family members. I did get out several times and was able to begin using the system that the previous owner had put together which is a Thunderstruck with 4 Li Cells for 48V and 196Ah, I believe. My question is what measures any of you take during thunderstorms if you cannot be back to the marina or get off the boat. My boat has a mast that is keel stepped on a metal plate that is bolted into the metal portion of the keel. It would seem this is an adequate path for a lightning strike if it were to occur and that a reasonable approach if we have to be on the boat through a storm is to get into the forepeak and away from the mast and Li cells which are in the port quarter berth. Is there anything else that could be done aside from switching off the motor, path to cells, etc. Presumable the breakers/fuses on the mast electronics will blow to hopefully protect some of that. Thanks, Scott

Recently I had a fail with my electric motor installation on my yacht which I couldn't immediately diagnose. Subsequently I had a diver cleaning the anti-foul and he found masses of fishing line wrapped around the propellor. It was apparently quite tight and while he managed to remove 90% of it and got the propellor to rotate, I still can't get the controller to respond. I have looked at the fault finding led on the controller casing and when the key is turned on I am getting multiple flashes far in excess of anything in the manual and then fades out. Given that I seem to have full charge, fuses intact and nothing appears during visual inspection I am at a bit of a loss on how to proceed. I am tipping that it must have got overloaded with fishing line jamb and that some sort of overload has been tripped... Any have any thoughts?

So, I have an AC-34 HPEVS motor and a Curtis F6a controller. 48 volts. Eve LiFePo4 batteries. 3.2v and 280ah each. 16 of them. Have had them for three years in storage at 55-65 degrees. They were all 3.2v when I got them three years ago and 3.2 when I put them in the boat this spring. I have a JK BMS. Yesterday, for the first time, I put the boat in the water and they got their first true loads. The power is crazy and I have a 28000 lb ketch sailboat with a full keel. Had really good power, which made controlling the boat so much better. However, after 1/2 an hour tooling around at fairly low rpms the app on the JK BMS said cell/module #6 voltage was dying and after another 10 minutes it was down to nothing/zero volts. Still had enough to motor. Docked the boat and tied it up for the night. Went back the next morning, with a spare cell/module I had, and measured the voltage on #6. Had no volts. Nothing. Took it out and replaced it with a spare, which was reading 3.2v. We were all set. Headed back out to the mouth of the harbor humming along at about 1500 rpms. After 20 minutes the motor sounded like it was losing power and sure enough it was. Opened the App and now two more cells were down to zero on the app and the Curtis display said Fault Code L23 - low battery voltage. Battery bank was down to 36v total. A slight caveat. I have a Honda 2200eu generator for when the battery runs down and I'm motoring and the batteries needs additional juice. Plugged the generator into the shore power outlet fired it up - and noticed that when I did that the motor actually lost a little power. At least that's what it seemed like to us. So, anyone have any experience losing cells/modules after they get put under loads and which showed 3.2v before.? Is it possible/likely that they simply are bad cells/modules? I originally bought 32 of them and it seems to me that losing 3 of them, when they've been in dry climate controlled storage, is not a good percentage of bad cells/modules. I have three more spares and will replace the ones that are reading zero voltage and see what happens. But I am, also, wondering if there is something I am doing, or not doing, to cause this? As I am new to this that is definitely a possibility but I don't know what I did, or didn't do to cause it. Seems like all the cells would be affected if I did something. Another thing to note is that I have a 24v battery bank for the house electronics that get their charge from the 48 volt bank, and I have a 12 volt battery bank that I use for the electric trolling motor for the dingy. All of theses cells/modules are, also, the same Eve cells that were bought at the same time as part of the same order. I have used the 24 volt bank a little and used the trolling motor a few times. All of these cells are reading decent voltage and no cells/modules appear to be tanking in the 24v bank or the 12 volt bank. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. My first time doing this so I am trying to figure this stuff out as I go along. Peter Knowlton South Dartmouth MA

Since this group has provided me with the soundest advice I am coming back for some more, on a similarly related issue dealing with balancing my 16 Eve 3.2v 280 ah LifePo4 batteries. I purchased a dc power supply as advised. Charged the cells to 3.27, give or take, and then put the 16 cells in parallel. That was 10 days ago. Put the dials at 3.7v and 3.52 ah. They are all now at 33.09v after 10 days, although the two end batteries are 3.10v. That is probably fine as it goes but here's the issue I need advice on: The batteries have not advanced from the 33.10/33.09 for over a day now. Every day before this the battery voltage would increase only a few tenths of a volt, but there was a steady increase. However, with no increase in the last 24 hours I am wondering if they are topped out, despite what I'm reading and seeing from others that they should be balanced to at least 3.5v. Any ideas why they might be "stalled" or are they topped out? Should I just patiently wait a little longer to see what happens or does no change in the last 24 hours mean they are topped out and ready to go? Thanks for whatever ideas you have. Peter

Hello all, complete newb here, so I'll start with a very basic newb question. First, the setup - we have a 1992 Privilege 482 catamaran with one dead diesel and the other still the original Volvo, but running well. Light displacement about 26,000 lbs., as loaded probably close to 30,000 lbs. With 2 old Volvo MD22's (50hp each) motoring speed was typically 7 knots at about 2000 rpm. With just the one motor we do about 5 - 5.5. We are full time long range cruisers so we're either at anchor or passage making - most hops are a full day, with many being multiple day passages. We also have a 6kw Northern Lights generator which performs well and currently only about 400 watts of useable solar (this will be upgraded soon to at least 1000, possibly up to about 1600). Our house bank is 900 amp hours of lithium, only 8 months old, but they're x3 12v 300 amp hour units, so not great for building a "master bank" for the motors from. This being the case, if we went electric, I would be inclined to set up the motor(s) with their own unique bank and charging system(s) and keep the house as it is, controlling what gets charged when manually. With our port motor locked up AND 30 years old, I'm very seriously considering an electric motor conversion as opposed to a rebuild (as well as several pricey parts I know it will need). I really like what Thunderstruck Motors has to offer, but just with a very basic consultation, they're suggesting the 24kw motor kits (we would actually just do the one side at first, operating with one diesel and one electric, then once all (most? some?) wrinkles are ironed out, convert the other side as well). However, from my trip down the rabbit hole online (which actually doesn't seem all that deep) x2 of the 24kw motors seems like overkill. Plus, they run at 96v, which requires a monster battery setup, which is our biggest hurdle financially being in the Caribbean. Even the fancier setups I've seen seem to be closer to the 10-15kw range for a boat roughly our size. The 12kw motor kits from Thunderstruck run at 48v which is much more manageable and seem like they would do the trick, but again...newb. We'd like decent potential range, but we sail 95% of the time already and when motoring, we don't have the "need for speed"...we sailed about 2000 miles already with just the one motor as mostly backup and have had no real issues getting where we needed to go. Running a conservative 1/2 power at something like 4-5 knots would be absolutely fine, while hopefully keeping up with solar, regen, and the genny. Heck, even motoring at 3-4 knots while waiting on wind or even just motor-sailing in the really light stuff would suit us just fine too. That said, when entering and leaving port and anchoring, or in the situations that always happen where being able to go pedal to the metal for a little bit can get you out of a jam, we don't want to find ourselves too wimpy on power. Thoughts? Thanks much.

The electronics on my Torqeedo Cruise 2.0 suddenly died--that is the display on the throttle went dead. The battery is fully charged, and I checked all the connections. I hope the motor itself still works, so I'd like to buy a new controller. Does anyone know what kind of motor it is? There are only two power cables going into the motor. Does that mean it is a DC motor? PS I would recommend not buying Torqeedo products. Mine has been nothing but trouble. The original motor had a leak and water got in. Torqeedo replaced it after a year of arguing. Then the electronics died. I got maybe 10-20 hours of total use from the motor.

Hello everyone, It's been a while since I've checked in here. About 15 years ago, I installed a Torqeedo Cruise 4 on my 24 foot pontoon and have been very pleased with the results. I am now interested in doing a very similar project and wanted to get input from you guys. I see prices have risen a lot, but so has inflation. $5,000ish is what I am expecting (but less would be nice). That's just for the motor as I already have a 48v bank of LiFePO4's. So, my questions are: Is Torqeedo still a good choice? Where should I buy one? A local marina? I don't see much on Torqeedo's site as far as places that stock them. I do see ads for places like "Defender Marine" but I don't have any experience with them. I feel funny putting a $5,000 item in an online shopping cart and pressing "buy now" without getting some guidance first. (By the way, I'm in northeastern Ohio on an small inland chain of lakes. (There are a number of marinas near by, but none seem to be Torqeedo dealers or have any interest in electric motors.) Thanks in advance for any suggestions or ideas, Pat

Anyone interested in learning more about an electric boat or just want to check one out. You are invited for a sail anytime. Just bring the beer! Boat is located in Atlantic Highlands, NJ. O'day 31 8.1kw brushless motor 10.2kwh lifepo4 Orion JR BMS Brunton Autoprop 460 watts solar (custom carbon fiber solar bimini in the works) Also have a converted Honda 2.3 on the dinghy Matt Foley Sunlight Conversions Perpetual Energy, LLC 201-914-0466 sunlightconversions.com instagram.com/sunlightconversions/ youtube/sunlightconversions

What's the right spot in an electric propulsion system for an hour meter? Which component(s) do people feel are most important to track usage time? This is likely something simple to do, and would also be appreciated by any future prospective purchaser, I believe. I was thinking about connecting it to the contactor that activates the motor controller. But alternative ideas would be welcome. (Of course, if there's an argument for not even bothering, I'd appreciate hearing that, too!)

Hi Everyone, I have a Thunderstruck 10 kW kit with a Curtis AC F4-A controller and a Curtis 3140 display. The display shows BDI (battery discharge indicator, which I guess is the same as State Of Charge), battery voltage, current, rpm, motor temp, and controller temp--one at a time. There is a button to toggle between the different data. How does the controller calculate State Of Charge for the battery? Is it based on battery voltage or is it counting amp-hours? Cheers, Lars

Greetings! Looking for recommendations to go hybrid (series, not parallel) . I will need a 48 v electric propulsion plus adequate diesel generator/range extender for a 15000 pound full keel 30 footer sailboat, 24”6“ waterline, hull speed 6.5 kn (Baba 30). Getting rid of actual engine, a 3 cylinders 30 hp diesel. Plan is to start with 4 x 12v 150 Ah AGM (just enough to go dock down the basin) Switch to high kWh lithium in the future for ocean sailing Will also add solar to the equation. I am looking for a diesel generator/range extender that could pretty much keep the batteries up while motoring. So, that’s a lot of questions at once: 1 motor ? 2 compatible AGM/lithium controller ? 3 diesel generator? 4 solar? 5 lithium batteries? 6 compatible with all the above +220/110 charger? 7 BMS added if not battery integrated? Sorry if this is a repeat question but it’s 2023 and it seems that technology is fast evolving! Pretty please: no 96 nor 72 volts suggestions I am sticking with 48, 52 max. All best and in advance, much thanks!