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Hi, all Soon there will be a flood of used EV batteries available, still having 70 or 80% capacity. Getting one of these to use in a sailboat however, requires the right controller. Hvaing a Maxi 87, My old Volvo diesel engine is to be scrapped now, so the replacement (even of weight) would fit well by a used 70-80% Nissan Leaf 1'st gen. battery placed near the keel, and a suitable BMS in the line, to power the motor. Anyone knows, or having an idea of, which BMS controllers are capable of handling these car batteries if installed in a boat ? Regards, Carsten, Denmark

I have a 30’ Rawson ketch, 12,000lbs, with the ThunderStruck 10kW kit about four years old. Me1616 I think and the sevcon gen4. I have 1000ah of battery at 48v. I have operated her regularly without much issue for about four years. The sevcon unit has heat sinks on the back. I have a 600a breaker in the circuit. There is no other cooling. Yesterday I had a problem when running at 3/4 throttle for 40 minutes or so against a tidal current - the motor whined a couple of times and cut out - I shut off the throttle and waited for 20 min and then started again at 1/4 throttle. Luckily the sailing was enough to keep me making forward progress against the current, though barely. I assume that it was overheating - I have not seen that before but I rarely push it at that rate for that long. My question is: which component was most likely too hot - the motor or the sevcon? What strategies have worked for others for improving the cooling? Would a 12v fan or two in the engine compartment help? It’s a big compartment - used to have a 40hp diesel and even then had plenty of room. There are a couple of scoops for fresh air and I could fit a 3-4” fan inside one.

Hi folks, I am converting a Catalina 34 with a thunderstruck 12kw 48v kit. Currently have 4 x 48v 100ah batteries 20kw. 3kw inverter generator 30amp 110v Looking for the simplest way of charging these 4 individual batteries. Each will have a bms and anderson connectors. I will be using a distribution bus bar. I know some are using mppt chargers. But would it be best to use a multiplus or any other device. I am looking to have the least amount of fail points in the system.

Anyone have used EVE Lithium? I would be using them for a 22 ft sail boat and would not need high discharge/charge rates, and not frequent cycling. EVE has some cells rated at .5C which is fine for my application, and those look good to me. Any comments? Thanks. John

In late October I finished my sailing season for 2021. Total motor running time was probably about 90-100 hours. My total time logged on the water was 251 hours. Average ride was 3 hrs and I figure I motor for 1 hour total for each ride plus some additional motoring on several days of testing. Total charging logged was 161.66 kWh for 2.046kWhr per ride. My service at home is $.0521/kWh so at that rate it works out to $8.42 total for electricity used for the whole season. The diesel would have cost $200 for the same use (at APR. $3.50/gal). Safe to say that the running cost of the electric is less than 1/10 of diesel. After fall haul out I disassembled the electric drive unit for inspection. I found some surface rust on the steel parts but everything came apart without any trouble. There was some oil residue inside the thrust bearing housing but I assembled it with some machine oil spread over all the surfaces. So I can't really tell if what I am seeing is from that or from lube leaking from the bearing seals. Seems like light oil and the bearing is lubed with grease. There was no apparent wear in the shaft or looseness of any kind anywhere. Everything was as snug as when I assembled it. The thrust bearing feels fine in the hand - smooth and true. There were no signs of binding or rubbing. Belt wear was minimal to unnoticeable. I found only a very small amount of black residue on the inner faces of the plates where the belt runs. There was some corrosion on the aluminum cover plate where I didn't properly coat the SS fasteners with Tef-Gel. Where I did use Tef-Gel everything was fine. Overall I would say everything came out in excellent shape with regard to wear but I need to attend a bit better to corrosion protection on the steel parts and where there is SS+Aluminum contact. I am glad I used SS for the shaft. I can get an SS version of the pilot bearing and I can get an SS threaded locking collar. That might be worth it to eliminate the nuisance of rust on those parts. The pulleys and their bushings will need to be coated better or painted. Maybe I'll spray then with McLube. I did that on my bronze stuffing box 18 years ago and it has held up perfectly. See photos of the inspection here: http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/electric_drive_season_review.htm And see more details of the system and photos of the installation here: http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/electric_drive.htm I have a lot more detail to add to this including performance data but this is a start. I'll attach some of that here as well. Dan Pfeiffer

Hello everyone, Just brainstorming a bit here trying to figure if I can come up with my own hybrid drive for an 8ton displacement Cat. Starting with a marinized VW TDI motor that puts out quite a bit of torque and HP, and using that to power an EMRAX electric AC PM motor, configured as a generator. Then get a proper controller for the EMRAX that can throw a bunch of DC at a pair of the 12kw Thunderstruck kits, one in each hull. I would also use the normal car alternator to power the boats systems while underway. I will have small LTO battery bank that can also run the Thunderstrucks for short distances when I am closer to shore, etc. When living on the hook the smallish Solar and LTO batteries can be configured to run as a 12v or 24v system to run the boats systems. I like the idea of using VW diesel because they are fairly available and I think the parts are out there to convert one for marine use. There are no shortage of mechanics that can work on one, worldwide. The TDI can be set to run at its max HP/Torque for the EMRAX's best performance. It is good to run these engines at a steady RPM. This will be a fairly expensive setup in time, $$ and complexity but I think it should just work once setup. I like the Thunderstruck kits as the final drive. Those kits seem pretty good. The LTO batteries are fast charging, safe and are good for 10000 cycles without losing capacity, have a 30yr shelf life, aren't subject to temperature limits like some batteries. The main issue I think is sizing the EMRAX motor, getting all the various cooling systems layed out and defined, and marinizing that VW engine... Anything else? Thanks

Below is the data that I've recently collected, comparing several different "electric outboard" and trolling motor options. The boat for all tests was a West Marine 10' RIB 310, single fiberglass bottom. Speeds were monitored using Navionics, and averaged for both up and down wind, in a relatively protected marina environment. Battery data was collected using a Victron 150A SmartShunt. MOTOR SUMMARY: Motor Voltage Max Speed Max Power Torqeedo 2T 24V 4.8Kn 1200W** (Motor testing limited at 1200W due to battery limits) About $4000, rated at 2400W Hangkai 48V 3.8Kn 1000W About $330, Rated 1000W - VERY Noisy Minn-Kota 35# 12V 2.3Kn 410W Newport 55# 12V 3Kn 550W About $200, Rated 50A@12V Summary thoughts: For speed and power, the Torqueedo 2T was clearly on top. Unfortunately, the 24V Torqeedo is about $4000+. Finding 24V batteries that fit in a standard battery box is a bit of a challenge, but do-able. Currently, they are running about $300 for a 60Ah battery. Torqeedo offers other smaller motors with integrated batteries - but they are still have about a $2000-3000 price tag, and spare batteries are VERY expensive. The Hangkai is a VERY cost effective answer for a 48V outboard electrict motor. However, this motor has a VERY touchy throttle, is extremely noisy, and didn't perform significantly better than the 55# Newport trolling motor. While the Newport 55# won't get you anywhere fast - it does seem to do a decent job, and should be sufficient for getting the dinghy from boat to shore (as long as there isn't a strong/fast current). 12V lithium batteries are easy to obtain, and a very common voltage to work with. Overall bang for the buck in terms of a nicely performing, low cost motor with an easy to purchase / replace battery seems to be the Newport. Just don't be in a hurry. Note that while the Torqeedo 2T was the fastest option - running at 1200W will kill a 60Ah 24V battery in about an hour. I would want to have at least two batteries minimum. The Newport 55# trolling motor should run in excess of 2 hours on a single 150Ah 12V battery. A second, smaller, lighter, less expensive 100Ah battery can be brought along as backup for plenty of range.

Jerry, FWIW: I've tested my 10' West Marine RIB dinghy with both a 24V Torqeedo T2 and a Hangkai 48V 1200W electric outboard. Both of these are rated at approximately 4hp equivalent(?). My experience was that the Torqeedo (with a MUCH bigger prop) seemed to have quite a bit more power. At about 1200 watts, my top speed was about 4.8 knots. On the Hangkai, WOT (wide open throttle) at around 1000W only got me to 3.4 knots. Your mileage may vary. And a cat is very different from a RIB, and this was with two adults in the boat. However, it was CLEAR - that neither of these motors would EVER get the dinghy up on plane. The small electric outboards are fine to get you from your main boat to (a nearby) shore. But you will do it at a very casual pace (crawl?). It's a whole lot better than rowing. But you aren't going anywhere fast, and you really need to pay attention to your battery, as no one seems to enjoy rowing RIB's... Then again, my dinghy is for a trawler that does about 8-9 knots WOT - so a 3 or 4 knot dinghy ride in to shore might be a reasonable fit for life in the slow lane. :) John John On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 09:20:34 AM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@...> wrote: John, I'm building a 12 foot cat dinghy out of foam and glass. About 120 lbs. I also have the Hang Kai 1.2. Hopefully will have the boat running by end of summer. I'm probably going to go with a small server rack lifepo4 that weighs about 40 lbs so I can carry it home to charge. The prices are getting better so waiting until end to buy it. The 10 foot version of my dinghy would plane at 14 knots with one guy on a 3 hp gas honda. So I asked my Aussie propeller expert to look at the Hang Kai. He thinks we'll get at least 10 knots. So I'll give it a shot. If it looks promising I might get another and gang them together. Would also be good for redundancy. We discussed the prop. The motor is geared one to one, so the prop is spinning at 3000 rpm or so. That's why it's small. Depending on how things go I've got an idea of an adapter to gear it down and fit a bigger prop. Keep posting. I'll let you know how it goes when we get the thing in the water. Jerry Barth On April 18, 2024, at 10:03 PM, "john via groups.io" <oak_box@...> wrote: Revisiting this question: I'm using an electric motor and battery for my dinghy. I've used Anderson connectors (100A and 50A) - and they're fine electrically. But the 50A blue Anderson connectors corrode horribly in the salt environment. I've seen XT60 and XT90 connectors, and think I've heard of people using those for solar connections (as well as being used in RC stuff). Would XT60 connectors do better in a salt environment than Anderson connectors? John On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 08:00:35 AM CDT, Matt Foley <matt@...> wrote: Hi John, I use 50 amp andersons on my dinghy motor. They do take a beating. I have to clean them every few months. Keep in mind, I get them wet frequently and they have taken more than a few dips in salt water. Salt water corrodes them pretty quick. Ill eventually try another solution. I can't speak for the Hankai specifically, but 800 watt input power should be enough for 4mph with a little margin. Power needed to go faster then 4mph will go up exponentially. Matt Foley Sunlight Conversions Perpetual Energy, LLC 201-914-0466 sunlightconversions.com instagram.com/sunlightconversions/ youtube/sunlightconversions ABYC Certified Marine Electrical Technician On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 08:36:47 AM EDT, john via groups.io <oak_box@...> wrote: I'm planning to use an electric outboard on the West Marine RIB 310 for my trawler. The dinghy is about 10' long, weighs a little over 100 pounds empty, plus 2-3 "solid sized" adults, plus motor and battery. Current plan is to experiment with a 48V Hangkai electric outboard, powered by a BTR 48V Ebike battery. Question: What connectors are best for using in the marine environment? I have experience with Torqeedos, and they use Anderson Plugs. Is that the best option for being able to quickly plug between the battery and the motor? One thing I want to do is put a small box

Available now, I have twenty-two (22) lightly used but 5-year old CALB SE200F (200Ah), LiFePO4, 3.2v (nominal) battery cells for sale. I just completed discharge capacity tests on all of these units, and they're all still over 80% capacity. I'm offering these as two separate bundles: (1) a 16-cell bundle, all of which tested out to 85% or better capacity (avg. 176Ah); and (2) a 4-cell bundle, each of which tested out at 83% to 85% (avg. 168Ah).. These would be useful for bench testing when developing a new propulsion system, (which is how I used them), or possibly aboard a vessel as back-up house batteries or some similar non-critical function. I'd keep them myself if we had any room on our little boat for them! CAVEATS: Due to their age, I would recommend against using them for a critical function, and can't guarantee them in any way. Also, there's a fair amount of variation in internal resistance within these bundles, so keeping them close to the same SOC requires frequent top balancing and/or the use of active balancers. I have 9 active balancer units that I will sell these very reasonably with the batteries or separately. Also, a few of the cells have cosmetic issues, including indications of brief short-circuits due to careless tool handling, that have no impact on battery function. Finally, I'm not going to pack and ship these batteries. You can pick them up from my location (12 miles north of Kalamazoo, Michigan), or I'd be willing to discuss personally delivering them within reason for travel expenses and unloading at your end. (Or we could meet somewhere in the middle.) I'd like to get $570 for the bundle of 16 cells; and $120 for the bundle of 4. [Buyer may elect to also take two "runts of the litter" at no additional charge. One tested out at 82% and the other at 80%.] I can provide to interested parties complete original specs supplied by the vendor, along with my testing details, including test charts for each cell, . Those interested, should please email me directly at mailto:PlainTV@... Thank you! Cheers! [-tv] Tom VanderMeulen Plainwell, MI "Grace O'Malley" Cape Dory 27

The folks at West Mountain Radio are great to work with, and they have some pretty interesting products. Who, or what, is West Mountain Radio you ask? And what do they have to do with electric boats? You may want to check them out if you have a big batch of batteries you want test, like I did. I purchased one of ther Computerized Battery Analyzers (CBA) some years ago. Install their sofware, attach the CBA to your computer, and attach a fully charged battery to it. You can run a discharge test (among others), and capture a user-configurable graph of the discharge cycle. However, because the CBA units are limited to 200 watts, the discharge rate with a typical 3.2v (nominal) LiFePo4 battery cell is limited to about 50 amps. If you have 38 cells of 200Ah or more capacity to test, the testing hours really add up!! West Mountain Radio has the solution in the form an "amplifier" that increases the limit to 500 watts. With that device, I was able to perform 1/2 C discharge tests of 280Ah and 200Ah battery cells at the rate of 4 a day! What was even better was that, although the WMR 500 watt amplifier costs $730 to buy, they have units available for short-term rental at the reasonable rate of $30 a month. Got a bunch of batteries to test? You may want to check 'em out! ... https://www.westmountainradio.com/cba.php [-tv] Plainwell, MI "Grace O'Malley" Cape Dory 27

Hey all, As mentioned in my earlier post, we're converting our 30-year old 48' cat to electric using a Thunderstruck kit (s)...long way to go, still in the planning phase. I have a question regarding throttle/shift control at the helm. What are folks using to do this? The Thunderstruck kit comes with the option of a Curtis ET-134 directional throttle if you choose to use your current control station that was used with the diesels. Having not hooked one of these up, I'm just curious how that works? Does it accept the 2 cables in the exact same way? Obviously there's no gearbox, but the motor does need to get the signal to spin either forward or in reverse and how fast. Again, not seeing the ET-134 in front of me AND never have dug into a throttle control body yet to see how it hooks up, I'm just curious how that works. I'm probably overthinking it. Or have you used other forms of control at the helm to better effect? Keeping in mind also that mine needs to be a dual station since there will (eventually) be two electric motors. I of course just want the smoothest control possible from the helm to the motors with as little garbage in the middle mucking things up. Thanks!

Hi, I was wondering what would be the best electric motor for "long-tail boats" (in replacement for gasoline, diesel etc. motors; these are outboard motors altered to extend their propellers far from the rest of the motor)! Thank you in advance for your comments, suggestions and tips. Best, M

Hello, all! A flood tide raises all boats, so I hope you'll be glad to see this link to the article PBO commissioned from us after we did our conversion and got as far as the Azores from the US. https://www.pbo.co.uk/cruising/electric-cruising-yacht-to-the-azores-84074 We're on a Baba 30 sailboat and went with an Electric Yacht QuietTorque 10.0, so a lot of folks on this site won't need our technical data motor-wise. We made our own LiFePO4 pack with Eve cells and a JK BMS. If you're interested in our figures and findings and installation process, etc, etc, most of our Patreon posts aren't paywalled and there's an option to be a "free member" so that you can see the info without paying. We'd love the support, of course, but we don't want to slow the spread of information about going electric. S/V SN-E Cetacea's Patreon Page And, of course, I'm happy to talk about any of that here too! Posting this link on various Facebook groups got me in some less-than-good-faith arguments that have me a little raw. I don't expect you-all to have that kind of desire to tear someone down. If you come at me in a way that feels disrespectful, I'll try to hold onto my patience but I'm afraid it's starting to wear thin. Thanks in advance for kind critique and/or open questioning.

I expect it only a remote possibility, but if anyone has interest in DIY-level floatovoltaics, I will report after two seasons of experience with my battery charging system. To review: This is a 100-watt semi-flexible panel bonded to an exercise mat that floats next to my sailboat while in its marina slip. Control is via Victron Energy MPPT 75/15 Solar Controller to 2X100Ah AGMs. The solar panel is partially shaded by the floating pier in early morning. Latitude DD is 46.677 N. The components have held up well and the batteries continue to be charged to float level – at least whenever I have observed the status later in the day. There is no evidence so far for any delamination or degradation of the panel. There is also no evidence of stray electrical potential. The closed-cell foam pad has proved surprisingly durable and even seems to have some resistance to algae deposits and cleans off at season’s end better than most things left submerged. The charging duty decreased during the second season because I no longer use the AGMs for propulsion. It becomes overkill for house needs, but the weight is equal to the lead ingot ballast that was removed, so they will stay for now. Occasionally there can be flotsam that settles on top – as cpcanoesailor warned – but a good rain or a bit of hosing solves that easily. The main problems I faced were missed in the advice from this group. The floating panel just proved irresistible to critters. In the first season, a mallard gave a new meaning for poop deck. This duck was quite persistent and possessive. It paid little attention to the dogs on the dock or interested onlookers. Scaring it off with the hose was only a brief interruption to its sunning and defecating activities. Amazingly, even with a large deposit of duck poop, the panel kept producing. For the second season, I fashioned a protective cover of bird netting. This successfully kept the ducks off, but late in the season, a (suspected) otter got curious and broke through the netting. I do not know whether it was the same otter or not, but I also found the rope that tethered the panel to the pier cleat to be severed on two occasions. This year, there will be new bird netting and a cut-resistant line. I have queried the journalist who covered some of the efforts of students at Michigan Tech and the university to find out whether they ever progressed to field tests for their floating system. In the article, the students were performing tests in a swimming pool. I was curious about successful deterrents if my critter condition is common. No reply received. I would imagine this critter invasion could be a serious drawback to small or large arrays.

I have the battery box for my 48vdc 200ah main bank installed and am considering how best to keep my 12 vdc house battery charged. All batteries in my system are LiFePO4. I will maintain charge in the main bank with 400 W of solar and a back up generator if necessary but, as my solar array will be 48v nominal I’m trying to decide how best to keep my 12vdc house battery charged. I had been thinking of one of the Victron Orion dc-dc converters but just noticed in the literature that Victron says that these units are not for battery charging. I’d like to be able to use the main bank as a full time source for the house, but would appreciate any suggestions on what I can use to continuously feed from my main bank to my house battery. Thanks in advance.

Friends it's time for a new owner, she is ready to go with her 18 KW motors and new batteries new bottom paint last march, 2 New Dometic reverse cycle in 2018, Max props, forward looking sonar, new console dingy with merc 20 hp electric and pull start, with 1 hr. use. new upholstery and stack pack. All led lighting, water maker, 7 anchors of various sizes, two asem spinnakers, two mains, extra props, two vhf radios and handheld. Ice maker, 2 state room one head, new commode, Garmin chart plotter and full suite of ray marine nav equipment. wired for star link, inside steering, Huge solar system, and lots more. email or texts will be answered. Will consider trads for real-estate or?

Four years ago I swapped out my 19 hp Volvo diesel for a 10 KW Thunderstruck system in my 32’ schooner which I have used for day charters since 2010. It worked out great for the past four summer seasons but I have decided to go back to diesel for more cruising range. If anyone is interested in purchasing my electric rig complete with motor, controller, charger, 2:1 reduction gear and 4 155 ah agm batteries I’ll make you a very good deal just to clear out my storage shed. You can email me or text me at 252-928-7245. Rob

Hi Group, My Morgan Out Island 41 is ready for new batteries. I’m ready to embrace LiFePO4. When I originally converted to electric I built and glassed in 2 battery boxes to hold 2 banks of 8 (16 batteries) golf cart batteries. I always run with both banks in parallel, but have the ability to run on just 1 and this has worked well. Unfortunately this size battery box doesn’t make efficient use of most individual LiFePO4 cells. I would however be able to use 32 X 230Ah EVE cells in 1 battery box, leaving the other box for some other purpose. My questions: I’d like to be able to run the 2 X 16S strings in parallel. Is this possible with LiFePO4? Is it safe to do this? Any precautions? Would I have 2 separate BMS units? How about capacity monitoring for the 2 banks in parallel? I have a Victron 48V/5KVA Victron Quattro charger inverter. Thanks in advance for any assistance/suggestions. Regards, Chris Hudson Sent from myPhone