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Hello I have recently joined the forum and have been following the topics with great interest. Within the next few months, I would like to purchase a boat (new or used) for use in a fairly large river with the average trip being 30 miles and other shorter trips. I have looked at the boats in use now, and generally they are all 20 to 30 foot length with outboard engines - 75 hp to 200 hp. It takes about 50 min to travel the 30 miles depending on how rough the waters are, and while there is not much traffic, there are some vessels which have 2 200HP engines and makes quite a big wake. The gas is about $120 USD. I expect to use the boat twice per week for the 30 mile trip and twice a week for shorter trips and this is likely the maximum use; it may be less, not more. Gas is likely to continue to increase in price. I will be operating in a completely off-grid environment with full solar capability for the villa - PV panels, charge controller, battery bank, inverter, backup generator. We get sun pretty much all day. Everything including groceries and gas is a 10 min boat ride away. No roads. I am considering electric engines and have begun to ramping up my knowledge. Since I am starting completely from new, I figured this may be an advantage but perhaps not. A few very broad questions and any guidance, input, feedback, cautions would be most welcome: 1. Should I go electric? 2. Is there a specific boat design for use with electric engines and river travel. 3. Budget - No idea. What can I get for 30k, 50k, 70k? Thanks kindly for any input Raj

I have a question about the feasibility of splitting up my 280 amp hour 48 V system into two aluminum battery boxes, that I will be custom making making. I am constrained on the space in my Newport 28 sailboat and it would be much easier and balance the way much better if I split the bank.. I am concerned, or the question is will the leads being longer from one system to the next, and the BMS leads being different links affect the current/reading of the BMS?? The leads going between the two boxes would be made out of double00 welding cable with properly crimped terminals while the leads going between the individual cells in the boxes will be copper busbars. Should all the BMS leads be the exact same length or can eight of them be 2 to 3 times as long as the other eight the boxes will be about 30 inches apart? 280ah new cells from Docan 250 amp BMS Daly Delta Q charger + 150 watts solar 7.5 KW system from Foshan Green Motor thanks for any and all comments. Aaron

Hello, Last year I got the Thunderstruck sailboat 10kw conversion kit with it worked great! https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/10kw-brushless-sailboat-kit-sevcon.html One problem — the battery charge indicator seem to not want to reset. I know for sure my batteries are fully charged but the indicator showing seemingly the last value it had when we last went out last season (currently showing 80% which is what we ended the last sail on). Would anyone know if I need to reset it someone after every trip? TIA! Anton-- Best Regards, Anton Slutsky, Ph.D.

Hello Electric Boats forum! Any and all thoughts and suggestions are highly appreciated regarding a wooden all-electric boat being built right now. Below are some basic details describing the wooden boat and the proposed electrical components, some of which have already been purchased (motor and motor controller). We also have a short youtube video describing where we think the electrical components might reside in the boat, and it also shows the space constraints we are dealing with, we hope this helps explain what we're working on. We haven't build an electric boat before so in a sense we don't know what we don't know. Lots of work still to be done but we wanted to reach out to this group now to get your thoughts. Electrical components: A 5 minute video showing space constraints and component placement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWqw0tKpaaI Full boat walkthrough: A longer walkthrough video showing progress update of entire boat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3TaQA4fjoM We would like to hear your suggestions and thoughts on the project regarding the electrical system! All comments welcome. We especially would appreciate thoughts on: Batteries: We don't want to build our own and don't want to manage a BMS (besides programming the hybrid inverter/charger to charge the bank); safety is our top priority, and we think we have a good candidate in the 48V Simpliphi series (more details below). Any thoughts on other off the shelf 48V Lithium solution that might work better for us, considering the space constraints? We show the bunk where the batteries will go in the shorter video on the electronics here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWqw0tKpaaI Placement of components: We think we have a rough idea of where the major components and busbars could go; the quick video walkthrough shows some cardboard mock-ups of where things could be placed, but we might not be considering something important. Solar panels and off-shore charging: Flexible might look better and have some other benefits given the shape of the roof (see the longer youtube walk-through second video at 2:29 https://youtu.be/b3TaQA4fjoM?t=149); but rigid panels might hold up better under wind, for example when the boat is being towed down the highway, and last longer in general. Suggestions on panels and wiring? We haven't even begun really investigating the solar side yet, still focusing on the main 48V bus and the shore charging system. Would wind power be worth considering? Ok, on to the details: The boat: Gavia Description: Gavia is a 25’ all-electric solar motor boat under development. We are now at the stage of investigating the major electrical components with a purchase timeline of 3 months or so (around June 2021). 48V DC System: The motor is a brushed 7.5 kW DC 48V Thoosa Electric Motor. We hope the nominal draw will be around 1-2 kW while under way, but short bursts (1 minute) of 7.5kW are expected (we have not tested the boat in the water yet). Energy will be provided by a 48V lithium-iron battery bank, hopefully with more than 10kWh of usable energy. Solar cells on the roof will be the primary recharge method, hopefully 1kWp or greater, with AC shore power and backup 1kW generator for AC charging. A hybrid inverter/charger should be a convenient way to pack lots of functionality into one box, and AC input/output should be 120V (we are in the USA). 12V DC System: The 12V DC system will be used to run low-wattage house electronics (navigation, radio, windless, house lighting, etc), and 12V bow thruster whose max draw is 1500W. This larger 12V draw necessitates a 12V energy bank (vs relying on DC-DC converter), so a 12V 100A lithium battery will be used and it should recharge from the main 48V system via DC-DC converter charger. 120V AC: 120V AC will be used for a minimum number of appliances onboard, the largest of which is the induction cooktop with a 1800W draw. This will be provided by the hybrid inverter/charger. We like what we see with Victron and the component integration is appealing. We’ve looked through the sample system designs from Vic

Is there anyone with experience with the ePropulsion Pod Drive 6? I'm seriously thinking of buying one but I've currently got two concerns; 1. What are the realistic chances of the seal failing and water entering the unit? Has anyone who owns one ever had this problem? 2. It's mostly aluminum, How well is it likely to survive in salt water? I'm intending to put the pod on a Badger 34, which has a flat bottom, which makes the pod drive a very easy to install option. Thanks to all who may respond. Paul J. Thompson Information Technology Manager Henry Brooks Co. (t/a Bathroom Direct) M 64 21 275 5001(txt only please) F 64 9 913 3113 E paul@... PO Box 58031, Botany, New Zealand 2163 5 Smales Road, East Tamaki, Manukau City www.bathroomdirect.co.nz The information in this email and any attachments is confidential. This information may be subject to legal, professional, or other privilege. It must not be disclosed to any person without our authority. If you are not the intended recipient you are not authorised to and must not disclose, copy, distribute, or retain this message or any part of it. Please return this message to the sender immediately and delete any and all copies from your system.

I have a Trojan f25 that I converted into a houseboat it. Currently has 2440 watts of solar on the roof and 40 205 Amp hr 6 volt batteries it is currently wired 12 volt but have room to add 24 more batteries to convert to 48. Original boat was rated at 5900 lbs loaded also have room on roof to upgrade to 6000 watts solar what size motor would I need to push it at 5 knots cruising and 10 knots max thanks Rommy

Considering offers for my 1970 (launched 77) Rawson 30 ketch, featuring a Thunderstruck 10kw motor, sec on gen4 controller, and 800ah battery bank (will push you all day at 4.0 kts). DIY conversion from diesel done in 2019 with great advice from this group. Boat is currently moored in Bellingham, WA, great slip on the outer edge of the marina, sunset and sunrise views. Thick fiberglass, dry boat. 800ah 12v house battery, inverter, 12v solar panels charging, lots of equipment including skin on frame dinghy and 12v trolling motor /battery. Composting head, gas stove, custom copper countertops, fridge stopped working, works as a cooler, probably fixable. Lots of equipment - everything you need for cruising, camping, tools for any work or repairing. Tiller steering, Autopilot, Wi-Fi, mast camera, nav tablet… Sleeps 4. Could use some cosmetic attention. Sails are ok, somewhat worn. Asking $25k, open to offers.

Hello everyone, I replaced the old two blade folding prop last haulout with a 3-blade kiwiprop and mostly it performs well. Only issue is when reversing, or rather getting it into the reverse position. I knew that it needs to be "jerked" into reverse as with an old diesel when you put it into gear it instantly snaps into reverse from stationary. If I put go from idle to almost full aft power its enough to overcome the spring pressure but quite often I'm too slow or whatnot and the prop stops at about 45 degrees pitch which creates alot of load on the motor making the belt skip on the pulleys. Anyone with similar experience or a way to fix it? I have a 10kw Thunderstruck kit with a Sevcon Gen4 controller and a 2:1 belt reduction.

I’m cleaning up after a project was cancelled by a client - I’ve got five meritsun 51.2v 200ah lifepo4 powerwall style batteries, and two very similar units from GSL, all new in the box with cables and mounting hardware. 100a C rate, easily paralleled, CAN bus comms. Work great for propulsion batteries as long as you can mount them (any orientation) somewhere dry. Weigh 200lbs each. In the Seattle area but also willing to ship. Letting these go at cost. Email for more info. These are great batteries and I’ve put lots of them into commercial agriculture installations.

Hello! I have a 30’ Rawson Ketch based in Bellingham, WA. Thunderstruck 10k and 800ah 48v traction with 800ah 12v house. I’m interested in finding a good windmill for some assistance in charging while at anchor (can they be safely run while underway?)…. I have a victron 48v solar charge controller (but I struggle to find any good spot on this boat to locate panels). Can I use this to charge from a windmill? It seems like most systems are sold as a complete package and designed to charge 12v house banks. I’d like to charge the traction battery directly. I can charge my 48v from the 12v using the buck converter or the inverter and ac charger but it’s not very efficient. Any recommendations about windmills?

In my planned design I have two 48v propulsion Lifepo4 banks (one in each hull) and a 24v Lifepo House bank. The propulsion banks will be grounded by their respective pod motor which will be fixed in the water. How should I handle the negative cabling? Is it okay or advisable to have a single common negative bus which all banks negatives are connected to? The 24v house bank is quite far from the propulsion banks, and I plan to charge it with a simple isolated DCDC converter from each propulsion bank. In this case is it necessary to have a common ground between the two banks or can I essentially operate them as two separate systems? any advice appreciated! Jack

Hey, so my wife just wrote (is still tinkering with) some software to read the CAN bus data from a Sevcon Gen4 controller and display it on a PC screen or pull it into Open CPN and have it across the top of the chart plotter screen (or anywhere else). She has it display motor rpm, motor temperature, motor current, battery voltage, current power draw (in watts) and total energy used (in watt-hr). We have initially used the rather expensive recommended CAN bus to usb converter from Digikey but there are much cheaper $20 versions which should work, we just have not bought and tested those yet. She also plans to interface through CAN to the Trojan Trillium LiFePO4 batteries if we get some of those.

Hi all. Last year I ripped out an old Perkins diesel and replaced it with the 18kw sailboat package from Thunderstruck. Most things have been running smooth except for the battery indicator always being red and the controller giving error messages when the charger is on but those are for another thread. I have searched for threads on this but I always come up empty with anything actually helpful. What I'm trying to do is get RPM, temp, Amps, etc messages from the can bus to either the NMEA2000 bus or at least into SignalK so I can view it from multiple devices. I have a RaspberryPi setup with a CAN hat from Waveshare. I'm able to see the raw CAN messages through cansniffer and candump but I'm stuck at translating those messages into anything meaningful. I know there are dozens of videos about translating CAN messages but almost all of them are about cars. I do have the OBD translator from TSM but I have yet to find a OBD to USB connector that will work and honestly would prefer to pull directly from the CANOpen bus anyway. Has anyone gotten anywhere with this or have any resources that might be helpful? I'd even be willing to pay a consultant to get me over the hump here as it's driving me crazy. Thanks in advance!!

I have an electric engine in my Catalina 30 and it uses a Sevcon Gen4 controller. Currently I have a Sevcon Clearview display that connects to what looks like an OBD-II plug on the Sevcon and this displays a lot of data like motor speed, Voltage and Amps. The display also has the capability of updating parameters in the Sevcon controller. I want to be able to display the engine speed and possibly the Volts and Amps being used on my Garmin GPSMap 942 chart plotter which is connected to NMEA2000 network. On the network I have connected my wind and direction device as well as water depth and temp device. I have been looking at ADFWEB.com which has a CANopen to NMEA2000 device and wondered if anyone has tried interfacing a Sevcon Gen 4 controller to NMEA200 network? Rgds Peter

I think I know the answer, but just in case I’m missing something, would it be advisable to provide ventilation to a LiFePO4 battery space on a boat? Active, passive? I know they are designed not to vent gasses, but the question came up and I don’t have a definitive answer.

Hi, I just wanted to mention that I found a source of light weight PVC fairing stock at Streamline Fairings (uflyit.com). Dennis from uflyit.com sold me a 15" piece of their smallest section fairing for $10 plus shipping. It fit perfectly around the round shaft of my modified trolling motor, and was way less messy than making a fairing from epoxy, glass and foam. Looking forward to less gurling and more efficiency when motoring this year.

Lurker here who enjoys all the informative info you all post. This came down my Quora feed, I thought it might be of interest to you. It's by a Li-ion battery designer and he provides a lot of practical knowledge. Best regards, Dan Can I replace my car battery with a lithium battery? Karl Young, Li-ion, supercapacitors, EVs, HEVs, BEVs ? Updated November 24 I better jump in here before more wrong information is posted. I design Li-ion battery packs for cars, motorcycles, golf carts, buses, trucks, boats, airplanes, etc. for ma... Read more ? Daniel H. Wolf, Esq. Founder, CEO Democracy Counts! www.democracycounts.org San Diego, CA 92104 USA 619.270.6434 Mobile d.wolf@... daniel.wolf86@... http://www.linkedin.com/in/danielhwolf Act always as if the future of the universe depends on what you do, while laughing at yourself for thinking that anything you do makes any difference. A Buddhist saying

Hello friends, i just stumbled upon this site and looks like a wealth of information. I built a little crab skiff during Covid, 21’ narrow and pretty light. Power is currently an Atomic 4 gas engine. It is a tunnel drive and turning a 12”- 3 blade cupped “indigo” prop, specifically designed for A4’s. I believe the prop was meant to allow the A4 to turn up and run at 1400 rpm. the boat currently runs about 14knts wot but is used mostly at 2 to 7 knots which guessing is 500- 1000 rpm. I can only go an inch bigger prop due to tunnel. I guess my question is where does one start picking the components? Can I expect any efficiency with existing prop? thank you for any feedback tom

I should have mentioned, for those who are not familiar with Quora, that if you click on the name of the person posting the answer you get all of his or her other answers. There are many more answers and discussions of lithium battery technology there.

Yes you can. In that case you call the ground a common. You must remember your circuit must only include the ground(common) and no other voltages... To avoid back feeding on any level it is best to have completely separate systems. A final thought! It is necessary to have control circuits tied by common unless the two are an isolated system. Hope that helps. [email protected]> wrote: