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80 mm or 3" Self centering chuck. For this post I will use metric in all measurements. Firstly I have had good success with the Sanou chucks. Excellent quality and prices that suit my budget. I have the 125 mm model as well and will post shortly my way of mounting it to my 100 mm dia mini lathe spindle. It?s not normal a 80 mm dia chuck is considered as a must have, as most mini lathe owners have opted to purchase lathes already with 100 mm dia chucks or have procured an adapter plate to convert and mount to a 80 mm dia mini lathe spindle. My original mandate was to be able to mount a chuck to my electronic milling indexer. Rotation or we could say 4th axis is achieved by a Arduino based control box designed Richard UK or I program, write a G code and use my 4 th axis CNC DDCS V 2 controller. Both systems drive a timing belt with pulleys a 6:1 ratio, using a Nema 23 stepper attached to the side of the tooling plate. The indexer center-line height from the mill table is 50 mm, making the use of a 100 mm impractical. The indexer that I built has a main spindle (a converted mini lathe tailstock quill) with a #2 morse taper. So I modified a # 2 MT stub arbor ex Arc Euro Trade and set to to make an adapter plate to link the stub arbor to the inner face of the 80 mm dia chuck. Photo 1 shows the finished work, photo 2 shows the adapter plate register lip being skimmed. This lip is 1.6 mm dia than the 80 mm dia register. This allows with the use of 4 x set screws to "float" the chuck enabling with the use of a DTI or DI to dial in concentricity of a part being held in the external/internal hard jaws as supplied by Sanou. After that I decided to make an adapter plate that would allow direct mounting to my 100 mm dia lathe spindle. Again most people are rushing to go the opposite direction, converting lathes with a 80 mm dia chuck to 100 mm dia chuck. This time the locating back spigot of the 80 mm dia chuck was a tight fit on the adapter plate and this plate is allowed to "float" off the major dia of the 100 mm dia lathe spindle. The fixing bolts are necked down to allow clearance of the lathe spindle chuck mounting holes. photo 3 shows a final clean up on the late after drilling the fixing holes, photo 4 finished assembly, photo 5 shows mounted to the mini lathe. Photo 6 is the 80 mm dia chuck with the master soft jaws fitted. These masters will accept the soft jaws that I use for my 100 mm dia and 125 mm dia chucks. The scrolls in these master jaws were cut by CNC . Photos 7 , 8 showing the indexer and control box. This is using a #2 MT ER 32 holder , I do not have available currently photos of the 80 mm chuck fitted to the indexer. But the same principle applies, a #2 MT male into the # 2 MT female indexer spindle held in with a draw bar. Hope of interest. Please feel free to ask questions on any of the above post , be it chucks, adapters, step indexers or CNC control. -- John

I "thought" they were in the Files folder, but I do not see them. Ralph -- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

One of the most common repairs other than pad and spring replacements on sax and woodwind instruments is the fitting new pivot screws. These screws by there name pivot the keys and cups holding the pads to close and cover against the tone holes on the body of the instruments. I have attached 2 of 5 sheets that show the range in Metric and UNF a instrument repair technician is faced with. The different sizes used through the years in instrument manufacture through the world is to my knowledge is about 60. Availability of new purchases of screws or pivots is virtually impossible after instruments are 30 years old. So it?s a case of making new from bar stock. I currently use silver steel and or ex printer rods. Some of the metric threads for example 2 mm dia has a standard 0.5 mm pitch, a purchase of a die is possible, but 2 mm dia x .4 p or 2 mm x .45 p dies are not easy to find and expensive if a special order to make on is required. This where the RELS has certainly improved my response to making new screws. Currently I have all my bases covered in the selection of threads I need to cut, and I just scroll down and select through the threads module shown on the LCD and select. As simple as that. I tend to select the manual threading as opposed to the automatic operation. Depth of threads normally 0.866 of the pitch, but I layoff a fraction on major dia and thread depth. as some of the pivot post female threads that the screws are fitted into can be oversize due to wear. Evidence of this is if the screw is missing in the first place , as screws can wind themselves out, they never wind themselves in and tighten. Murphy?s law. The screw contact to pivot tapers are also cut using the taper function of the RELS. No messing with back gears or setting the compound slide to produce the taper. I do not have a compound slide. I use sharp HSS threading tools, normally 60 degree, unless repairing old pre WW2 Yamaha instruments that adopted a metric thread with a 55 degree flank angle. Gr!!!!!!!! After that, I part the screw off from the rod with a jewelers saw, turn round, face the head. Then into the mill and cut in the screwdriver slot, using a JS block, and a thin slitting saw. I normally will make 5 or 6 screws of the same size at a time, remembering to identify the sizes before putting away in my repair toolbox. LOL. Hope of interest. -- John

What does a Stepper Motor drive pulse look like? This is very basic, starting from scratch. I am writing (attempting to write) PWM code to drive a stepper motor. What should the pulse look like? How long? How much delay between pulses? Is the delay the same as Duty cycle? Yes I have managed to get myself thoroughly confused. I have seen someone using a 20ms pulse with a 50ms delay for UGS settings. What is the practical range? Do you vary the pulse length or the OFF time? Ralph Ralph -- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

Spiders, no not the 8 legged type, but normally 3. Used predominantly as a backstop for typical self centering chucks, or can be any number of jaw chucks either self centering or independent. I made this one as per the attached photos out of phosphor bronze, why ? because it used to be readily available locally. But any material will be OK. Please read next post. The center portion is relived out in 3 places to allow the jaws to come closer together, maintaining a solid portion at the rear which is a snug fit into the chuck bore and clears the rear scroll end of the jaws. This spider shown is designed for a 100 mm dia chuck with the bore opened out to 22 mm. The front face has a detachable screw which if used can accurately set the distance of short pieces being held in the jaws. Hope of interest. -- John

From taking a leaf out of Richard UK book, printed a work holding "caddy" for my 8586 soldering machine. For the price I paid for this dual unit, solder and hot air blow I was quite impressed. https://www.banggood.com/750W-SMD-Rework-Soldering-Iron-Station-Hot-Air-Nozzle-Solder-Welder-Holder-3-Nozzles-Tool-p-1636186.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN I do very little electronic welding and maybe a Weller type is preferred by the professionals. Basically a snap on tray for the top holding 12 solder tips, 3 hot air nozzles and the copper wire solder tip pot. The hot air support arm is located on the LH side, and is an induction based unit, IE the hot air stops blowing when you return the handle back into the arm. The solder support I just used JB Weld and stuck it onto the RH side of the main box. This certainly clears up my work space, and keeps everything tidy. Hope of interest. -- John

Pictures better than words. Firstly I made several typical John S type ER 32 holders. Then I made a couple of blocks with 6 and 8 sided, but the compression rings to closes down the nose collets and the compression thread is internal where as the John S type is external. The compression nut has a cone that matches the cone on the front end of the collets. Simple idea but avoids the standard external diameter overhang of the typical ER 32 nut. I used aluminium for the bodies, good enough for the work that I do. The internal tapers and threads were made via the use of the lathe ELS system. The lathe being a typical 7 x 14 Real Bull Chinese type. Thanks, hope of interest. Stay safe and well. -- John

Good afternoon, I decided to take a little break from my current 3d printer project and do a project for my better half. Our mailbox flag broke off a while ago and screw with a small piece of metal for support would have fixed. Inspired by a YouTube video on a channel called TimNummy I set out to make my own version of his magnetic flag. All I needed to do was make six relatively precise components, procure some screws, a few magnets, and a ceramic bearing. Then I would be able to make a new flag so the mailman would know when we had outgoing mail. Since a picture is worth a thousand words here is a few thousand-word explanation of what I did :). Since I lost the original flag, an old ruler served to make another one. The magnets will hold the flag either up or down. The ceramic bearing is designed to run dry. It has no metal parts so it should not rust or otherwise corrode. Everything else is either plastic, aluminum, and brass. Thank you, Kenny

Good evening, About 4 years ago I purchased a Geetech 3d printer that is an aluminum-framed version of an I3 (Prusa clone). It worked pretty well out of the box and I was pretty pleased with it. My interests drifted elsewhere and it was put away in the corner of the shop not used. I recently tried printing some things from Thingiverse using the Prusa version of Slic3r, only to find that it did not perform at well, quite terrible in fact. I tired the more generic version of Slic3r, only to have the same problem crop up. I upgraded the X and Y axis with linear rails and put a new bed on it (fabricating most of the support pieces in my shop). That did not help either. I returned to YouTube and learned a little more about the software that creates the Gcode for these machines, I downloaded Cura and copied a "profile" from another user and finally started to make some headway with my printer. I was able to get some test prints to come out pretty good (not great) and I created some parts (part cooling ducts) for the printer itself. My question is, the printer will be going along doing a pretty good job and randomly just move either X or Y direction the entire length of the travel and then return to the print job. While doing this it will leave long whispy strings of filament attached to the model itself. Where can I start my search for correcting this. I can say that it is consistent to the print job at hand. Meaning if I print the same model more than once the same strange behavior will occur. If I reslice the same STL file it will change, sometimes getting better, sometimes getting worse. I am pretty good about understanding the mechanics of these machines, but the software is a huge leap for me. Any guidance to get me started will greatly be appreciated. Kenny

I've been looking into building one of these as a project. I have a PIC eval board. Motor. Motor driver and even encoder. But it seems that there are also cheap solutions out there already. https://www.robotdigg.com/product/900/CANOpen-protocol-GECKO-stepper-controller And I've asked for a price on this: http://www.hybridservos.com/stepper-drive-with-canopen-communication#F1 John

It's not all of them, but it is all up to #39, which is pretty nice. I've got most of them. You can order them direct from the publisher for (last I did it,) about $10-15 each, or though Amazon. I've bought a bunch of them, including both for the 7x mini-lathes, #43 & #48, IIRC. Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

I am working on a project that required 5 mm thick metal plate of aluminium alloy 8090 but my supplier sent me the plates of thickness of 8 mm. I am looking for the best machining option to reduce the thickness of the plates in the workshop itself. Carl