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Hi, W@ayne,
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My pleasure... though I was down in the shop installing the lathe carriage DRO this afternoon (see pics below) and I realized that I didn't include DROs in the list of larger items.
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Technically, you don't really need them.? But the way the ELS system works, you "tell" it where you want to go to by moving the cutting tool to that point and pressing a button to store the location.? The question is, how do you know where the desired point is?
I avoided getting DROs for the lathe for years, because I felt I didn't really need them.? I got by with a calibrated stop, or by using my compound aligned with the carriage.? With the stop, I would touch the first surface I planned to cut, lock the carriage, position the stop against the carriage, lock the body of the stop in place, back off the carriage, and then turn the calibrated portion of the stop the desired distance.? It only gave me about 3/4 of an inch (19 mm) but was accurate to around .003-.004 inches.? I used a similar technique with the compound.? But I removed the compound and replaced it with a solid plate for more rigidity, and the stop only works if the last bit of the distance is fed manually, so... DROs.
(Huh... the system gave me the error "SyntaxError: Unexpected end of JSON input" when I tried to insert the photos.? I tried the photos that I posted this morning and got the same error.? So something is hinky, but I have attached the photos instead of inserting them.)
-- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Well, looks like the pictures didn't attach, either.? Let me try again with the DRO photos here... wow, now I can insert them.? Well, here are the pictures, anyway...     -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Charlie, where did you get the leadscrew covers? oh dear I might have asked you that before, oh well it is good to have it reposted in this new forum. I wonder if I might make them, actually, if I could buy the telescoping tubing I would have enough left over to make up sets for others, hmm.
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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I Googled telescoping tubing, got some results but not really a good variety in sizes.
Now I am "thinking" about 3D printing the various tubings. I am seeing at least 17 different sizes of tube on charlie's lathe.
Ralph
On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 4:59 PM Ralph Hulslander via Groups.Io <rhulslander= [email protected]> wrote: Charlie, where did you get the leadscrew covers? oh dear I might have asked you that before, oh well it is good to have it reposted in this new forum. I wonder if I might make them, actually, if I could buy the telescoping tubing I would have enough left over to make up sets for others, hmm.
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Hi, Ralph, The photos are deceptive, in that each of the covers is one piece of a spring-type material manufactured as a spiral roll.? Each one collapses and expands as you move the carriage from left to right.? I have just answered a similar question I received via PM, which also asked how they were installed, so I will copy and paste that here to be complete.
My lathe happens to be a Real Bull, not a Sieg, and I am not sure whether this kit would work on a Sieg.? (The right end of the lead screw has a different termination in the Sieg than the Real Bull, though it can be modified to match.)? But at any rate, I got the lead screw cover kit from:
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Amadeal Limited
Unit 20, The Sidings
Hainault Road
Leytonstone
London, England
E11 1HD
Email: info@...
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Their shipping document lists it as ¡°CJ18 Leadscrew Cover Kit¡±.
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At the time I bought it (early 2018), it was around US$ 68.00 plus about US$ 24.00 shipping and handling; I don't know what the price is now.? Yes, it is somewhat expensive, but part of the reason is that it includes a new apron.? (The old Real Bull apron has a number of curved surfaces on the headstock side.? This newer one has flat surfaces, already drilled and tapped for mounting the cover.)
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Basically, the installation is fairly simple.? You replace the existing pillow blocks for the lead screw with the supplied pillow blocks, which have flanges for the spring loaded covers.? The left pillow block has a pipe-like tube that runs under the electronics, preventing any contact between electronics and lead screw, which was a feature I appreciated.? Two larger diameter flanges mount on the new apron; the old apron is removed, the gears, handle, bearings, etc. transferred to the new apron, and reassembled.? During final assembly of the lathe, the covers themselves, which are held in a closed position by a retaining clip, are slipped over the lead screw.? Once everything is aligned, (I had to jockey the flanges slightly to make sure they did not contact the lead screw), you can remove the clips for the covers while holding them closed, and then allow them to expand slowly.? (I wore gloves for this, but it proved not to be necessary.)? The expansion of the covers holds them in place, and causes them to collapse as the carriage moves from one end of the lathe to the other.
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I have attached some photos that I hope are of some assistance in making the process clearer.
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I hope this helps, Ralph...
-- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Oh... it looks like the email address was removed by the .io system, I suppose for security reasons.? I will spell it out here... replace "at" with the ampersand to actually use the address.
info at amadeal.co.uk
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Thanks Charlie, that great, right now both of my lathes are just sitting, I probably will not touch them until December so it is? not worth the investment at this time.
The email link came through on the first post for me. ?info@...?? ?went to their website?, they have a lot of stuff but I could not find the "CJ18 Leadscrew Cover Kit".
Ralph
On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 11:04 PM CLevinski < clevinski@...> wrote: Oh... it looks like the email address was removed by the .io system, I suppose for security reasons.? I will spell it out here... replace "at" with the ampersand to actually use the address.
info at
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Hi, Ralph,
I would suggest that you email them when you are ready.? I recall that I couldn't find it, either, and had to email them for info.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Hi Ralph. Reference telescoping mini lathe feed/lead screw covers : Visit? LMS?site ref part #?s 5201 and 5202. You will not need the new saddle as supplied by Amadeal in the kit as required for the Real Bull lathes.
Regards
John
Thanks Charlie, that great, right now both of my lathes are just sitting, I probably will not touch them until December so it is? not worth the investment at this time.
The email link came through on the first post for me. ?info@...?? ?went to their website?, they have a lot of stuff but I could not find the "CJ18 Leadscrew Cover Kit".
Ralph
On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 11:04 PM CLevinski < clevinski@...> wrote: Oh... it looks like the email address was removed by the .io system, I suppose for security reasons.? I will spell it out here... replace "at" with the ampersand to actually use the address.
info at
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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John
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Thanks John, got them on my list!
Hi Ralph. Reference telescoping mini lathe feed/lead screw covers : Visit? LMS?site ref part #?s 5201 and 5202. You will not need the new saddle as supplied by Amadeal in the kit as required for the Real Bull lathes.
Regards
John
Thanks Charlie, that great, right now both of my lathes are just sitting, I probably will not touch them until December so it is? not worth the investment at this time.
The email link came through on the first post for me. ?info@...?? ?went to their website?, they have a lot of stuff but I could not find the "CJ18 Leadscrew Cover Kit".
Ralph
On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 11:04 PM CLevinski < clevinski@...> wrote: Oh... it looks like the email address was removed by the .io system, I suppose for security reasons.? I will spell it out here... replace "at" with the ampersand to actually use the address.
info at
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Charlie, did you see the pictures of the DRO install that OldToolmaker linked to in the 7x12 group (?)? Very clean install, out of the way and well protected. Could the DRO be mounted on the other (back) side of the lathe, or would it interfere with the ELS hardware?
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Fast Eddie, I considered mounting it in the back, but I was concerned that there might be some interference with the ELS components.? At minimum, it would make the rear side of the carriage very crowded.? OldToolmaker's DRO installation is certainly very clean, and I like his solution, but I opted for the front.
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Fast Eddie, ?Please find a photo of the rear side of my carriage below. It would be difficult, but not impossible, to mount the DRO here.  -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Really, the only issue for me with mounting it on the front is that I use a shop vac to clean the swarf out from under the lathe...not impossible to overcome, and it might even be easier because the scale is in clear view rather than on the other side. But it's good to know that there is nothing to preclude mounting the scale on the back if that is what floats your boat.
You sure take nice pictures, Charlie!
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Thanks!? Though I? don't really think they are better than anyone else's, I DO tend to take a lot of them!
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Fast Eddie, essentially one could mout the DRO wherever one can mount it. I like the rear mount for Z.
The crossslide (X) appears to be more complicated/limited in how one would mount it.
Of course I haven't done either yet but have given it a lot of thought and looked at all of the post.
Ralph
Thanks!? Though I? don't really think they are better than anyone else's, I DO tend to take a lot of them!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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I just finished putting a 3-axis glass scale DRO on my micro mill and I'm still not all that convinced that a lathe should have one. I've only operated one lathe in my working career that had a DRO and not being accustomed to using one it only seemed to get in my way. One of my employer's lathes had an? OEM dial indicator on the Z that was driven by a wheel riding on the ways and that was pretty useful despite being stained yellow and scarred up from hot swarf, but I've mostly used either a set of adjustable parallels or Jo blocks to set my travel stop. Nowadays I use a dial indicator permanently affixed to a magnetic base, and I just bought a digital indicator for the quill on the mill so I could work with both metric and Imperial, but that progress hasn't made it to the lathe yet.?
Back in the early '70s my employer had a Clausing Colchester lathe that had one of those ball-detented turret-style carriage stops that could be set for various lengths, but setting it up was more trouble that it was worth, in my view. Most of the stuff I made was one-off anyway.
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Hi, All, Just finished installing my cross-slide DRO this afternoon.? The display location is temporary; it will end up in the area of the ELS controller. I have always resisted DROs for the lathe, but darned if I didn't use the Z-axis previously installed to make spacers for the cross-slide, and found it to be both faster than my previous approach (calibrated stop) and more accurate.    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Charlie, I'd like to see some shots from the motor end.
Hi, All,
Just finished installing my cross-slide DRO this afternoon.? The display location is temporary; it will end up in the area of the ELS controller.
I have always resisted DROs for the lathe, but darned if I didn't use the Z-axis previously installed to make spacers for the cross-slide, and found it to be both faster than my previous approach (calibrated stop) and more accurate.
 
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Ralph, Here are some better views from the motor end.? A couple of the flatter angle shots are intended to show the spacers on top of the DRO sensor unit.        -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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John Lindo