Constant Surface Speed for mini-lathe
#CSS
Hello, All,
A few years ago, John and I came up with a Constant Surface Speed (CSS) unit for use on the Real Bull mini-lathe.? I believe it would work on the Sieg, but haven't been able to verify that.? John wanted it to be very simple to connect electrically, so the implementation had only three connections that had to be unsoldered and then soldered somewhere else, and all three were on the speed control pot.? You can find instructions on how to install and use this system in the "Files" section.??
Basically, the box and a sliding potentiometer replaces the speed control pot.? When you switch to CSS mode, the speed control pot is replaced by two adjustable pots that allow you to set the starting and ending speeds, and a sliding potentiometer that moves with the cross-slide.? This automatically increases speed as the cross-slide approaches the centerline of the spindle.? This uses no microprocessor, etc... it is an old-school hardware mod.
I hope this is of interest to the group.
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Hi, Ralph,
An Arduino?Mega 2560 Rev 3.
I recently emailed a friend in Australia a list of most of the items I have purchased for ELS so far, along with sources.? I can copy and paste this list for you, if you wish; just let me know.? John is right, though, that the motors and couplings are the first things, as they get mounted first.
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Ralph.
When you are closer down the line to start the ELS project then I will gladly put some more meat on the bone. I believe by memory around about December time and you will have everything in place. Surprisingly all procurements well within a hobbyists budget.. The steppers IMHO being the first things to buy, from there you can start to think about mounting them to the lathe, always a touchy feely thing is better, steppers normally come with a spec sheet and mounting hole dimensions. But not a big deal, as i will help out as required. Are you planning on X and Z axis to be controlled by a ELS system ? Cheers
John
Yes, I knew that. What are you using for a controler, that was never clear from John's post.
Ralph
BTW, just to be clear, none of this ELS design is mine. It was worked out by John Lindo and his friend Richard.? Between the two of them, they came up with a really nice implementation!? I essentially copied the mechanical design.
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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John
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Yes, I knew that. What are you using for a controler, that was never clear from John's post.
Ralph
BTW, just to be clear, none of this ELS design is mine. It was worked out by John Lindo and his friend Richard.? Between the two of them, they came up with a really nice implementation!? I essentially copied the mechanical design.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Re: Saxophone case broken handle- 3D printing.
#3D
John,
Nice solution!
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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BTW, just to be clear, none of this ELS design is mine. It was worked out by John Lindo and his friend Richard.? Between the two of them, they came up with a really nice implementation!? I essentially copied the mechanical design.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Saxophone case broken handle- 3D printing.
#3D
My friend recently had the handle break on his saxophone case. The case being some 25 years old. He was informed by the by the guy in the local music shop it could not be repaired. and needed a new case.Approx €85 . With a 3D printer and CAD, 1 hour print time, I used PLA.good as new. Typical handle where the lend clip into the support lugs, just expand the handle out and it springs back and locks in.  Thanks? -- John
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Hi, Ralph, A 600 PPR quadrature rotary shaft encoder, coupled directly to the spindle with a timing belt with a 3:1 ratio.??    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Wow Charlie, THANKS!!
Now pretty much I need to settle on the motor for Z and X.
You have probable said but how are you sensing rotation of the spindle?
Ralph --
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Re: Gear reduction 7 x 12 Real bull lathe Part 1.
#GR
Ah, sorry, of course.? The cut depth is actually 2 mm then... my brain is fuzzy because it's a day that ends in a "y".
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Re: Gear reduction 7 x 12 Real bull lathe Part 1.
#GR
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John,
Nice video!? Just to confirm, you are taking 2 mm (.080 inch) deep cuts... i.e., you are removing 4 mm (.160 inches) in diameter on each pass?
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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John
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Re: Gear reduction 7 x 12 Real bull lathe Part 1.
#GR
John,
Nice video!? Just to confirm, you are taking 2 mm (.080 inch) deep cuts... i.e., you are removing 4 mm (.160 inches) in diameter on each pass?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Ralph, Here are some better views from the motor end.? A couple of the flatter angle shots are intended to show the spacers on top of the DRO sensor unit.        -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Gear reduction 7 x 12 Real bull lathe Part 1.
#GR
Please watch the link.
It?s a? video that i took of me machining using my first gear reduction unit fitted onto the lathe.
An aluminium 125 mm dia billet being bored out to 17 mm deep and attached to a faceplate.
35 mm eccentric to the center line.
2 mm deep cuts using a standard carbide brazed boring tool.
Please note the chips being released and please listen that the machine is not losing speed or is bogging down.
This was my second GR bracket being manufactured, and naturally the first bracket I machined on the lathe and took some time and patience as??
naturally the torque from the stock lathe was minimal.
I hope to follow up with some more photos and information this weekend ref? the GR and how the Weiss mini CNC mill has now vastly improved
the time to manufacture this bracket.
Hope of interest
Thanks
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John
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Charlie, I'd like to see some shots from the motor end.
Hi, All,
Just finished installing my cross-slide DRO this afternoon.? The display location is temporary; it will end up in the area of the ELS controller.
I have always resisted DROs for the lathe, but darned if I didn't use the Z-axis previously installed to make spacers for the cross-slide, and found it to be both faster than my previous approach (calibrated stop) and more accurate.
 
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Hi, All, Just finished installing my cross-slide DRO this afternoon.? The display location is temporary; it will end up in the area of the ELS controller. I have always resisted DROs for the lathe, but darned if I didn't use the Z-axis previously installed to make spacers for the cross-slide, and found it to be both faster than my previous approach (calibrated stop) and more accurate.    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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I just finished putting a 3-axis glass scale DRO on my micro mill and I'm still not all that convinced that a lathe should have one. I've only operated one lathe in my working career that had a DRO and not being accustomed to using one it only seemed to get in my way. One of my employer's lathes had an? OEM dial indicator on the Z that was driven by a wheel riding on the ways and that was pretty useful despite being stained yellow and scarred up from hot swarf, but I've mostly used either a set of adjustable parallels or Jo blocks to set my travel stop. Nowadays I use a dial indicator permanently affixed to a magnetic base, and I just bought a digital indicator for the quill on the mill so I could work with both metric and Imperial, but that progress hasn't made it to the lathe yet.?
Back in the early '70s my employer had a Clausing Colchester lathe that had one of those ball-detented turret-style carriage stops that could be set for various lengths, but setting it up was more trouble that it was worth, in my view. Most of the stuff I made was one-off anyway.
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Fast Eddie, essentially one could mout the DRO wherever one can mount it. I like the rear mount for Z.
The crossslide (X) appears to be more complicated/limited in how one would mount it.
Of course I haven't done either yet but have given it a lot of thought and looked at all of the post.
Ralph
Thanks!? Though I? don't really think they are better than anyone else's, I DO tend to take a lot of them!
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Thanks!? Though I? don't really think they are better than anyone else's, I DO tend to take a lot of them!
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Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Really, the only issue for me with mounting it on the front is that I use a shop vac to clean the swarf out from under the lathe...not impossible to overcome, and it might even be easier because the scale is in clear view rather than on the other side. But it's good to know that there is nothing to preclude mounting the scale on the back if that is what floats your boat.
You sure take nice pictures, Charlie!
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John Lindo