Thanks John .
animal
On 2/9/24 9:08 PM, John Lindo wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Forgot
to say, added in the Files section ref RELS data.
See
schematic for installing.
Also
you may need the Adafruit files loaded in the Arduino sketch.
I
have attached the ZIP?s
Hope
this helps
Cheers
John
I
have added an Arduino file Tach.ino?
I hope this helps?
This is used in my RELS. Also see the schematics for wiring
in.
Cheers
--
John
--
John
|
Fwiw, it's fairly easy to set up Linuxcnc which lsupports encoders. I'm running encoders with 1um and 5um resolution using mesa fpga cards. My lathe encoder worked at threading rpm (120rpm) using the parallel port.
Let's you do lots of fun turning. Here's a kindling splitter I recently "threaded" using Linuxcnc.
You will need to use interrupts. One per phase. Looks like an Arduino lib already exists.
I need some 4 pin encoder code for a 1000 line encoder.
Most of the code for RPM I have found online does not work.
I do have some Arduino code that "almost" works, but it is not accurate.
Ralph
I have implemented several tachometers in software but haven't implemented an arduino tach. I have installed several of the $15-$20 tach (RC-41) modules which are very simple to install if you just need a quick RPM display. I've been using one on my lathe spindle for a few years. I recently added a feedback loop for the spindle VFD and noticed the module speed is off by maybe 10-20% under 100RPM but gets better at higher speeds.
Coding a tachometer can be a bit tricky if you require accuracy. It all depends on how many pulses you get per revolution and how fast it's spinning. One method is to count the period between tach pulses to calculate frequency/RPM. You use a timer interrupt that captures a high?resolution timer on the pulse. You need a little bit of logic to detect slow speeds which can wrap your timer. Usually you will low-pass filter these values to smooth out the RPM value. Some automotive tachometers/software use a multiple teeth system with?a missing tooth to provide multiple position and velocity estimates per revolution.
My lathe uses a 240 pulse per revolution disk (60 teeth with quadrature pulses) for threading. LinuxCNC supports missing tooth encoders so I could remove a tooth and get absolute positioning (within 1.5 degrees) The software provides an instantaneous RPM that I low pass filter before display so it doesn't jump around. The lathe also has the RC-41 display with a 1 pulse per rev sensor that I used to set the spindle RPM when I was using a potentiometer to control the VFD. Recently, I removed the pot and control the VFD with linuxCNC. This is when I noticed the RC-41 wasn't very accurate <100RPM.
On Fri, Feb 9, 2024 at 1:57?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote: hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried
some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with
the code? I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code
. What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tachometer? from
China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a
project I've got going .
thanks
animal
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
You will need to use interrupts. One per phase. Looks like an Arduino lib already exists.
I need some 4 pin encoder code for a 1000 line encoder.
Most of the code for RPM I have found online does not work.
I do have some Arduino code that "almost" works, but it is not accurate.
Ralph
I have implemented several tachometers in software but haven't implemented an arduino tach. I have installed several of the $15-$20 tach (RC-41) modules which are very simple to install if you just need a quick RPM display. I've been using one on my lathe spindle for a few years. I recently added a feedback loop for the spindle VFD and noticed the module speed is off by maybe 10-20% under 100RPM but gets better at higher speeds.
Coding a tachometer can be a bit tricky if you require accuracy. It all depends on how many pulses you get per revolution and how fast it's spinning. One method is to count the period between tach pulses to calculate frequency/RPM. You use a timer interrupt that captures a high?resolution timer on the pulse. You need a little bit of logic to detect slow speeds which can wrap your timer. Usually you will low-pass filter these values to smooth out the RPM value. Some automotive tachometers/software use a multiple teeth system with?a missing tooth to provide multiple position and velocity estimates per revolution.
My lathe uses a 240 pulse per revolution disk (60 teeth with quadrature pulses) for threading. LinuxCNC supports missing tooth encoders so I could remove a tooth and get absolute positioning (within 1.5 degrees) The software provides an instantaneous RPM that I low pass filter before display so it doesn't jump around. The lathe also has the RC-41 display with a 1 pulse per rev sensor that I used to set the spindle RPM when I was using a potentiometer to control the VFD. Recently, I removed the pot and control the VFD with linuxCNC. This is when I noticed the RC-41 wasn't very accurate <100RPM.
On Fri, Feb 9, 2024 at 1:57?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote: hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried
some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with
the code? I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code
. What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tachometer? from
China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a
project I've got going .
thanks
animal
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Please see in the RELS files section.
John
I have added an Arduino file Tach.ino?
I hope this helps?
This is used in my RELS. Also see the schematics for wiring in.
Cheers
--
John
--
John
|
Forgot to say, added in the Files section ref RELS data. See schematic for installing. Also you may need the Adafruit files loaded in the Arduino sketch. I have attached the ZIP?s Hope this helps
Cheers
John
I have added an Arduino file Tach.ino?
I hope this helps?
This is used in my RELS. Also see the schematics for wiring in.
Cheers
--
John
--
John
|
Forgot to add I installed this type
Hope this helps.
--
John
|
I have added an Arduino file Tach.ino?
I hope this helps?
This is used in my RELS. Also see the schematics for wiring in.
Cheers
--
John
|
I need some 4 pin encoder code for a 1000 line encoder.
Most of the code for RPM I have found online does not work.
I do have some Arduino code that "almost" works, but it is not accurate.
Ralph
I have implemented several tachometers in software but haven't implemented an arduino tach. I have installed several of the $15-$20 tach (RC-41) modules which are very simple to install if you just need a quick RPM display. I've been using one on my lathe spindle for a few years. I recently added a feedback loop for the spindle VFD and noticed the module speed is off by maybe 10-20% under 100RPM but gets better at higher speeds.
Coding a tachometer can be a bit tricky if you require accuracy. It all depends on how many pulses you get per revolution and how fast it's spinning. One method is to count the period between tach pulses to calculate frequency/RPM. You use a timer interrupt that captures a high?resolution timer on the pulse. You need a little bit of logic to detect slow speeds which can wrap your timer. Usually you will low-pass filter these values to smooth out the RPM value. Some automotive tachometers/software use a multiple teeth system with?a missing tooth to provide multiple position and velocity estimates per revolution.
My lathe uses a 240 pulse per revolution disk (60 teeth with quadrature pulses) for threading. LinuxCNC supports missing tooth encoders so I could remove a tooth and get absolute positioning (within 1.5 degrees) The software provides an instantaneous RPM that I low pass filter before display so it doesn't jump around. The lathe also has the RC-41 display with a 1 pulse per rev sensor that I used to set the spindle RPM when I was using a potentiometer to control the VFD. Recently, I removed the pot and control the VFD with linuxCNC. This is when I noticed the RC-41 wasn't very accurate <100RPM.
On Fri, Feb 9, 2024 at 1:57?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote: hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried
some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with
the code? I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code
. What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tachometer? from
China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a
project I've got going .
thanks
animal
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
I have implemented several tachometers in software but haven't implemented an arduino tach. I have installed several of the $15-$20 tach (RC-41) modules which are very simple to install if you just need a quick RPM display. I've been using one on my lathe spindle for a few years. I recently added a feedback loop for the spindle VFD and noticed the module speed is off by maybe 10-20% under 100RPM but gets better at higher speeds.
Coding a tachometer can be a bit tricky if you require accuracy. It all depends on how many pulses you get per revolution and how fast it's spinning. One method is to count the period between tach pulses to calculate frequency/RPM. You use a timer interrupt that captures a high?resolution timer on the pulse. You need a little bit of logic to detect slow speeds which can wrap your timer. Usually you will low-pass filter these values to smooth out the RPM value. Some automotive tachometers/software use a multiple teeth system with?a missing tooth to provide multiple position and velocity estimates per revolution.
My lathe uses a 240 pulse per revolution disk (60 teeth with quadrature pulses) for threading. LinuxCNC supports missing tooth encoders so I could remove a tooth and get absolute positioning (within 1.5 degrees) The software provides an instantaneous RPM that I low pass filter before display so it doesn't jump around. The lathe also has the RC-41 display with a 1 pulse per rev sensor that I used to set the spindle RPM when I was using a potentiometer to control the VFD. Recently, I removed the pot and control the VFD with linuxCNC. This is when I noticed the RC-41 wasn't very accurate <100RPM.
On Fri, Feb 9, 2024 at 1:57?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote: hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried
some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with
the code? I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code
. What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tachometer? from
China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a
project I've got going .
thanks
animal
|
hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried
some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with
the code? I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code
. What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tachometer? from
China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a
project I've got going .
thanks
animal
|
animal
On 2/9/24 8:37 AM, CLevinski wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John,
Very interesting. Hopefully, the U.S. will follow
suit. Though I doubt it.
Cheers,
Charlie
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2/8/24 11:21 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] #3D
This just appeared on my emails.
Hope of interest to 3D printing members
Cheers
--
John
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
NOTE:
No trees were injured in the sending of this message,
but
a large number of electrons were terribly
inconvenienced.
|
John,
Very interesting. Hopefully, the U.S. will follow suit. Though I doubt it.
Cheers, Charlie
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: John Lindo <bechetboat@...> Date: 2/8/24 11:21 PM (GMT-05:00) To: digitalhobbyist@groups.io Subject: [digitalhobbyist] #3D
This just appeared on my emails. Hope of interest to 3D printing members Cheers -- John
-- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
NOTE: No trees were injured in the sending of this message,
but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
|
Found this video in my archives
Screw cutting a 12 mm x 1mmm LH thread.
Cross slide set so as the it moves well out off the part to gauge the size of the thread with a nut.
Thread size pitch is not normal for a standard metric ,
Hope of interest?
--
John
|
This just appeared on my emails.
Hope of interest to 3D printing members
Cheers
--
John
|
Hi Ron. So sorry to read about your 3D problems. You are not alone in your Creality after service?? woes LOL I have a next?town down friend Eduardo who had the same service problems and he had to deal without success by emailing?China, As Eduardo does not speak Chinese LOL or any English, I tried to wade in, but had no success. His problem was the extruder working overtime, I think this was caused by the spool holder in the wrong position, it seemed to be initially set up parallel in line with the bed and not hanging?vertically above the extruder. Anyway, with some wire clothes hangers etc we got there and he is OK now, but inconsistent prints of poor quality, even printing with layers down to 0.2 mm.
With a consistent problem then you can zoom in on a fault, with inconsistency?then pretty much to lap the Gods to know if you have a fix. As a newbie some 7 years now, I have found that Geeetech (and no endorsements) have given me? excellent service, excellent in answering questions, etc etc, and you pay for what you get. Just bought a second?Mizar (shipped from Geeetech Germany)? DHL 3 days?shipping , the total price was about $245. Geetech have slashed their prices, there seems to be a stagnanting Chinese financial crisis, Oh well.? Good for me LOL. Cheers
John
On Thu, 8 Feb 2024 at 12:53, Ron Y < ryulick@...> wrote: I have the CR?6-SE that I purchased back when on Kickstarter. It actually worked fine for about a month then just kept having issues with the bed, adhesion, print head crashing, etc.? Contacted their support who finally told me to send it back and when I tried to I got crickets. They even lied to me about parts and wanted me to buy a complete assembly vs fixing a single component. They claimed the component was not for sale and could only be installed in their much more expensive assembly. When I sent them their own service video on the individual part, I got a lot of deflection and silence. Their customer service is basically non-existent (I condensed the whole scenario for brevity). I have gotten at least a dozen sales cancelled for their printers from folks who went elsewhere when I showed them my proof and my situation. I really can't stand being lied to, especially when it is my money they are taking.
--
John
|
I have the CR?6-SE that I purchased back when on Kickstarter. It actually worked fine for about a month then just kept having issues with the bed, adhesion, print head crashing, etc.? Contacted their support who finally told me to send it back and when I tried to I got crickets. They even lied to me about parts and wanted me to buy a complete assembly vs fixing a single component. They claimed the component was not for sale and could only be installed in their much more expensive assembly. When I sent them their own service video on the individual part, I got a lot of deflection and silence. Their customer service is basically non-existent (I condensed the whole scenario for brevity). I have gotten at least a dozen sales cancelled for their printers from folks who went elsewhere when I showed them my proof and my situation. I really can't stand being lied to, especially when it is my money they are taking.
|
Thanks Julian, I will let you know how the vise turns out. I think it will be strong enough to grip the odd wooden block for drilling or hand planning a few bits and bobs. Attached 2 photos?of my first?print off the Mizar using a Geetech?test STL supplied. Quite impressed, and for the price of these budget printers, IMHO well made, well designed, user friendly. I have not tried anything else but PLA at this moment. The vise was printed off the Prusa clone I3 using carbon filled filament, the nozzles wear out quickly, but the strength of carbon filled is about double the normal toy stuff PLA, Cheers John
On Wed, 7 Feb 2024 at 19:48, Julian < julian@...> wrote: Love the cartoon characters. Often print novelties for the Grand Kids.? Last effort was a pair of very loud whistles each with their names embossed on them.? My daughter seems to be dead against me doing this, but the kids love them ... drum kit next!
Be very interested in seeing the fractal vice completed and to hear how it works.
--
John
|
Love the cartoon characters. Often print novelties for the Grand Kids.? Last effort was a pair of very loud whistles each with their names embossed on them.? My daughter seems to be dead against me doing this, but the kids love them ... drum kit next!
Be very interested in seeing the fractal vice completed and to hear how it works.
|
Julian What a real nice looking machine, well done. John
Thanks Julian, I looked at the.
I am impressed, my 3D printer was the first to be advertised?for <$200.00 and it was cheap.
One of these days.....
Ralph
On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 5:23?AM Julian < julian@...> wrote: Nice bit of modeling there, John.? Bet they took a while to print with those big flat areas.
Just treated myself to a Bambu x1 carbon.? Boy is it fast, you often can't see the print head move, it's just a blur.? There are two speed levels faster than the standard speed but I haven't dared try them yet!
Very nice printer if you are looking to upgrade.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
|
Forgot to add, in the Silvester photo it includes in the backdrop one of my house cats, and by pure coincidence he was on the table at the same time.
A beautiful cat, but curiosity will definitely be the end of him, LOL
Cheers
--
John
|
John Lindo
