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Pics of the endoscope mounted at the rear of the X-axis carrier. This is a must-have for dialing in a printer, IMO.



A camera's eye view of the nozzle. A dime is shown nearby for scale.



And finally, a camera bracket I just finished designing/printing for a CR-10s I just bought...hope it fits!




#3D

--
John

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 09:47 PM, John Lindo wrote:

I could draw up and send the total dimensions of a stock set of mini lathe gears, spindle gear tooth count being 29 T 21 T?

layshaft being 12 T 19 T but i will check, if you could help create a STL file with the gear profile then I would print here once?

I get the nylon filament.

Sure, sounds like a fun project!

I used Taulman Alloy 910...I might have posted this here before, but here's a link to a selection guide by Taulman:?. I don't think carbon fiber would be a good choice for gears...it is abrasive (you need a hardened or SS nozzle if you print very much with it).

The Alloy sells for about $30 for 1/2kg in the US. It arrived vacuum sealed with a package of dessicant like most filaments but I still needed to dry it. I have a borescope (endoscope) mounted on the back of my X-axis carriage focused on the nozzle and I could see the water boiling off the filament. Water makes steam in the hotend and the pressure causes the filament to ooze out of the nozzle and it is impossible to control when it does that, and it makes your prints porous and weak. Many problems with printing are caused by wet filament, but most people don't know that until they actually see it happen.

Nylon also warps, and I finally had to resort to using a raft to keep it from lifting and causing the print to fail. I tried several different ways of getting it to stick to the bed and finally ended up using a generous coating of purple glue stick (PVA) on glass. After it printed I let it cool down naturally and it stuck so well it cracked the glass (I use regular cheap glass from the hardware store, not the borosilicate stuff). Even then I had to put it under running water to finally get the gear off the glass...I think I might have gone a little overboard with the glue stick!

Nylon also shrinks, so it's likely some finishing will be needed on the bore and the keyway. My printer prints oversize anyway, and I would rather it be too tight than too loose.

There's more...

#3D

Eddie and members.

See the link?

Any advise greatly appreciated.




Thanks


--
John

--
John

29T nylon printed gear next to 30T POM gear from LMS. 100% infill.

#3D

I always use a brim, but not attached to the model...a single outline or two on the first layer, 2mm or so away from the outline of the model. It primes the nozzle and it shows where the print will be on the bed, helpful when you are approaching the limits of your bed.

But the brim should not be part of those STL files, or not that I can see.

#3D, #GR

Hello, All,

In order to aid in searching for a given subject, it would be helpful if you could please include one or more of the following hashtags at the end of your Subject line, if they apply.? This list is current as of 10/25/19.

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#DRO - Posts related to DROs (Digital Readouts)
#ESI - Posts related to ESI (Electronic Step Indexer)
#GR - Posts related to Gear Reduction for the mini-lathe
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Thanks!
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

--
John

U da man, Robert!

Yes, I see no reason why your printed gear wouldn't work...at least it would keep you going until you could print (or buy!) another one. Nylon is the among the best material for printed gears...flexible, self-lubricating, strong, etc.

Give these a try, John. Be sure to double-check the dimensions...this might be the first time I've screwed up (today).

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

Robert,

Wow!? Some very impressive work!? I am especially enamored of the robot arm... that took some serious engineering!
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

On 8/20/19 8:50 AM, Bruce J wrote:

On Aug 20, 2019, at 1:05 AM, Fast Eddie <epinnell@...> wrote:

STL of the 48T pulley with a 28mm bore if anyone wants to have a go at printing.

A useful tip: McMaster-Carr offers STL files of virtually every mechanical component they sell, including gears.

? While I applaud them for their effort, my only issue is that McMaster-Carr only has a limited selection of tooth counts for the various pitches they sell.

? I haven't used it, but there is a gear generator in Fusion 360 that is supposed to be quite good.? There are plenty of tutorials available, including Youtube.

---Mark

On Aug 20, 2019, at 1:05 AM, Fast Eddie <epinnell@...> wrote:

STL of the 48T pulley with a 28mm bore if anyone wants to have a go at printing.

A useful tip: McMaster-Carr offers STL files of virtually every mechanical component they sell, including gears.



--
Bruce Johnson

The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.

Hello everyone.? I will introduce myself by attaching some relevant links to my blog. ? For those interested in 3D printing, here is my homebrew 3D printer.?

This has proven to be a durable design, with print-heads that are probably unlike anything you have seen anywhere else. Not shown is my 3 color head, which is an evolution of these heads. It can choose between one of 3 colors.? It is not a mixing head, and must be purged when changing colors. Still, I find it more practical than multiple heads, and it doesn't reduce the maximum print size as multiple heads often do.
For those who want to digitize their mini lathe, here is how I added scales to mine:
Also lathe related, here is how I added an automatic feed stop to mine:
Finally, just for fun, here is my robotic arm that ended up making a trip to the White House:
Regards,
Robert

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 06:48 AM, John Lindo wrote:

A simple 3:1 ratio, 30T on the spindle, 10 T on the encoder, Charlie has followed the same principles but yet?

John,

I believe the pulleys are 48 tooth on the spindle and 16 tooth on the encoder, 2.5 mm, based on our original discussions.? I know that is what I implemented.? 3:1 ratio either way.
?
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 06:13 AM, Richard wrote:

Therefore leaving the software numbers as is for the moment as 1, they
work and 2, are not difficult to achieve, so why change.

Richard,

My thinking exactly.? So if need be, I will procure a 600 PPR quadrature encoder with at least a 50 kHz capability.? But best to stick with what I have until I see if it's an issue.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

I appreciate all the members inputs, and I am learning a lot not only in topics but members personal "feel" to where they all want to be.
We all have different goals that we need to achieve, and we?have more members per day joining.
Charlie (moderator) will ensure you are all fully accepted and settled in, he is brilliant at this computer "stuff", I am NOT.?
Some new applicants may unfortunately find they arenot suit this forum over time and the main criteria being "digitalhobbyist" , but will never turned away at the start.
As I say, you don?t know what you don?t know, and to gain more knowledge is better, even than Mastercard can buy.
This group does not negate from basic machining principles, as we have many future?
"newbie" members who can and will ask the usual " how do I questions" such as switch on a lathe or machine, LOL Not a problem,?
excellent replies will always be based on safety first.
All interested people are most welcome to join and ask questions and i find this can be refreshing to us old F.rts.
I was unfortunately advised by another group to limit my posts ref ELS , 3D, CNC, CSS, GR, which was I am sorry to say is there loss my gain..
How much more can we talk about tailstock problems ( I fixed that) and spindle alignment. Rolly Dad. I use a test bar , purpose made for the job Oh well.
But I wish all engineering groups well , but the future is AI, "Artificial Intelligence"? and some good, some bad future ideas at affordable prices to hobbyists.
We cannot stop the AI express train, so get on it? I say, but protect this valuable planet at the same time.
What?is evident currently from this new forum is that we do not have any armchair experts, waiting to be the doubting Thomases
that are so abundant in the other forums, producing nothing but forum chat, and basically that frustrated me to the point of being not PC. Oops LOL.

Please tell other friends to join this forum, and lets have some real productive hobbyist fun, less of the stiff upper lip tand hese are the Ground Rules.
published every week in other forums.How autocratic/dictatorial is that.??You will not see this here.

Have a good productive week, I am up to my neck at this moment in 3D printing.GR "bits".
Keep the posts coming in.Love it.
John