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Re: Spam email using digitalhobbist name

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Yes.?? Shown up on MACHCNC, Southbend Lathe, Seattlemeatleheads.?? Probably more.

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chuck Pickering
Sent: April-27-20 4:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Spam email using digitalhobbist name

?

Anyone else getting spam in the form of a group invite from Queen Nanu? Has the member list been compromised?

Re: Making Face Shields or Visors for people on the front lines #MISC

 

Hi

No innovation here. We downloaded and copied the work done by others and made our face-shields. I have given all references and relevant links to our original sources. As of Saturday, the count of face-shields sent out has crossed 7,000 mark. We now have at least two logistics centers and the demand is building up. We have shipped the face shields even to Alaska in addition to California, Texas, Ohio, New York, New Jersey, and Delaware. Of course, the majority has gone to neighboring hospitals in and around Philly. The whole thing has been teamwork and the credit goes to . I am just a helper within the group.?

Prasad

?
Re: Spam email using digitalhobbist name

 

She's sent the same email from two different addresses on one of the South Bend Lathe groups, and the ELS group, John D is looking into it.
Assuming it's the same person, anyway.

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Monday, April 27, 2020, 06:05:46 AM CDT, Chuck Pickering <chunk07@...> wrote:


Anyone else getting spam in the form of a group invite from Queen Nanu? Has the member list been compromised?
Spam email using digitalhobbist name

Chuck Pickering
 

Anyone else getting spam in the form of a group invite from Queen Nanu? Has the member list been compromised?
Re: Making Face Shields or Visors for people on the front lines #MISC

Queen Nanu
 

Hi Prasad,
Your innovation is awesome and your dedication to help those at the frontline is exemplary. Kudos to you and all those helping you.
Queen
Re: Knee mill #CNC #MILLS

 

The support has been really good. I've discovered they are a little more expensive than some of the other AC Servos coming out of China. According to their sales guy; the brand I price compared to, he claimed wasn't of the same quality. This is a Bergerda drive and I've been dealing direct with them. So far I'm pretty happy with them. I'll be ordering a few more in the next few weeks once I get the spindle motor mounted. A big cost is shipping.

I really do need to cast those mounting plates so I can mount it. I think I'm procrastinating because I'm afraid something won't work or fit and I'll be back at square 1.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: April-20-20 5:31 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Knee mill

??? ??? thats a sweet lookin motor , I bet their pretty proud of that &
the controller

??? ??? animal

On 4/20/2020 5:09 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
I'm replacing the 2HP single phase 1.5kW motor with this 1.8kW AC Servo. Currently run with a little module changing PWM to
0V-10V along with a direction signal it will also take step/dir for tight control over tapping.

Just need to finishing building the casting cope and drag for the bigger mounting plate and get off my rear side and cast and
machine it. The motor sitting there aleady runs under the CNC commands even though I'm still using the single phase motor.

John


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Cornelius Wessels
Sent: April-20-20 4:43 PM
To: digitalhobbyist
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Knee mill

It is a very rigid mill , the slides does have the proper scraping finish. The base is very heavy . So far I am happy with the
package.
The first thing that I am replacing is the DC motor and rather fitting an AC motor with a VFD.
I will drive 300 miles for that mill.


---- On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 19:23:55 -0400 mike allen <animal@...> wrote ----
> how do ya like that mill ? I was given one , but before I could go get it the pandemic started so it just sits 300+
miles
from me
>
> animal
>
> On 4/20/2020 3:01 PM, Cornelius Wessels wrote:
> Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to
the
one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down. That is
280lbs
that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring
to
try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter
weight that move up and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to
reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass. I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft
and
some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.
>
>
Re: Knee mill #CNC #MILLS

 

thats a sweet lookin motor , I bet their pretty proud of that & the controller

??? ??? animal

On 4/20/2020 5:09 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
I'm replacing the 2HP single phase 1.5kW motor with this 1.8kW AC Servo. Currently run with a little module changing PWM to 0V-10V along with a direction signal it will also take step/dir for tight control over tapping.

Just need to finishing building the casting cope and drag for the bigger mounting plate and get off my rear side and cast and machine it. The motor sitting there aleady runs under the CNC commands even though I'm still using the single phase motor.

John


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Cornelius Wessels
Sent: April-20-20 4:43 PM
To: digitalhobbyist
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Knee mill

It is a very rigid mill , the slides does have the proper scraping finish. The base is very heavy . So far I am happy with the package.
The first thing that I am replacing is the DC motor and rather fitting an AC motor with a VFD.
I will drive 300 miles for that mill.


---- On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 19:23:55 -0400 mike allen <animal@...> wrote ----
> how do ya like that mill ? I was given one , but before I could go get it the pandemic started so it just sits 300+ miles
from me
>
> animal
>
> On 4/20/2020 3:01 PM, Cornelius Wessels wrote:
> Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to the
one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down. That is 280lbs
that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring to
try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter
weight that move up and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to
reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass. I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft and
some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.
>
>
Re: Knee mill #CNC #MILLS

 

I'm replacing the 2HP single phase 1.5kW motor with this 1.8kW AC Servo. Currently run with a little module changing PWM to 0V-10V along with a direction signal it will also take step/dir for tight control over tapping.

Just need to finishing building the casting cope and drag for the bigger mounting plate and get off my rear side and cast and machine it. The motor sitting there aleady runs under the CNC commands even though I'm still using the single phase motor.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Cornelius Wessels
Sent: April-20-20 4:43 PM
To: digitalhobbyist
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Knee mill

It is a very rigid mill , the slides does have the proper scraping finish. The base is very heavy . So far I am happy with the package.
The first thing that I am replacing is the DC motor and rather fitting an AC motor with a VFD.
I will drive 300 miles for that mill.


---- On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 19:23:55 -0400 mike allen <animal@...> wrote ----
> how do ya like that mill ? I was given one , but before I could go get it the pandemic started so it just sits 300+ miles
from me
>
> animal
>
> On 4/20/2020 3:01 PM, Cornelius Wessels wrote:
> Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to the
one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down. That is 280lbs
that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring to
try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter
weight that move up and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to
reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass. I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft and
some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.
>
>

PWMSpindle-2.jpg

Re: Knee mill #CNC #MILLS

 

so will I as soon as the restrictions are lifted . they also gave a ENCO 11x20 lathe & a bunch of tooling . don't know if I'll keep my South bend or the enco

??? ??? thanks

??? ??? animal

On 4/20/2020 4:42 PM, Cornelius Wessels wrote:
It is a very rigid mill , the slides does have the proper scraping finish. The base is very heavy . So far I am happy with the package.
The first thing that I am replacing is the DC motor and rather fitting an AC motor with a VFD.
I will drive 300 miles for that mill.


---- On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 19:23:55 -0400 mike allen <animal@...> wrote ----
> how do ya like that mill ? I was given one , but before I could go get it the pandemic started so it just sits 300+ miles from me
>
> animal
>
> On 4/20/2020 3:01 PM, Cornelius Wessels wrote:
> Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to the one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down. That is 280lbs that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring to try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter weight that move up and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass. I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft and some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.
>
>
Re: Knee mill #CNC #MILLS

 

It is a very rigid mill , the slides does have the proper scraping finish. The base is very heavy . So far I am happy with the package.
The first thing that I am replacing is the DC motor and rather fitting an AC motor with a VFD.
I will drive 300 miles for that mill.


---- On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 19:23:55 -0400 mike allen <animal@...> wrote ----

how do ya like that mill ? I was given one , but before I could go get it the pandemic started so it just sits 300+ miles from me
>
> animal
>
> On 4/20/2020 3:01 PM, Cornelius Wessels wrote:
> Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to the one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down. That is 280lbs that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring to try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter weight that move up and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass. I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft and some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.
>
>
Re: Knee mill #CNC #MILLS

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I've used 3:1 to the handle shaft which goes to a bevel gear which then turns the 0.25" pitch knee acme screw.? I'm using a 60VDC supply and a 1200 oz-in motor.? I can get 25 ipm with it before the motor starts losing steps.?

?

I think if I went 4:1 I'd probably get slightly faster speed depending on how that reduction moves speed relative to where on the torque curve the motor sits.?? Or with 4:1 install an AC Servo.

?

I don't know what a counter weight assembly would do for backlash.

?

John Dammeyer

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Cornelius Wessels
Sent: April-20-20 3:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Knee mill

?

Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to the one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down.? That is 280lbs that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring to try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter weight that move up? and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass.? I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft and some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.??

KneeDrive.jpg

Re: Knee mill #CNC #MILLS

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

??? ??? how do ya like that mill ? I was given one , but before I could go get it the pandemic started so it just sits 300+ miles from me

??? ??? animal

On 4/20/2020 3:01 PM, Cornelius Wessels wrote:

Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to the one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down.? That is 280lbs that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring to try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter weight that move up? and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass.? I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft and some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.??

Knee mill #CNC #MILLS

 

Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to the one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down.? That is 280lbs that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring to try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter weight that move up? and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass.? I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft and some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.??

counter.JPG
counter2.JPG
Craftexmill.webp

Re: #MISC Pulleys? #MISC

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The pulley does come off, but the spindle is 44mm where the pulley is mounted and 40mm for the exposed part. That is why I¡¯d need to shim or make a two piece pulley.

That¡¯s not a major project, but when what I have works there isn¡¯t a lot of incentive either.

Alex

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Dammeyer via groups.io <johnd@...>
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 9:35:22 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
?

I'm guessing from this photo

that the large driven step pulley comes off.

That means it would be relatively easy to bore a hole in a larger diameter toothed pulley that allows you to place it right where you have your rubber belt.? And use an identically sized pulley on your encoder.

?

So I believe it's possible but if what you have is working and you are happy with the results then leave it.?

John

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of alexphredorg
Sent: April-20-20 9:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

That¡¯s the test that I did John. I left it running for an hour and alignment was still good. ?Overall I think the accuracy is better than when running with a many stage gear train. ?It¡¯s a lot quieter too.

?

This doesn¡¯t account for any per revolution noise. For instance an ovalized pulley could have the same circumference and match after days of running, but would create bad threads. ?I did see this when I first made my belt and it had bump where the belt was welded. ?

?

I¡¯m open for ideas on how to do a timing belt on my lathe. I thought through a lot of options, but didn¡¯t come up with anything that wasn¡¯t a lot of work (like a two piece pulley or shimmed pulley).

?

alex

?

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Dammeyer via groups.io <johnd@...>
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 9:04:12 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

Perhaps do an experiment for all of us. Here's the premise.

?

As long as the two pulley V grooves are identical in shape and depth and the same diameter of course and the belt is the same diameter over its entire length the encoder and the spindle should stay in sync.

?

So with the lathe stopped place a ruler along both pulleys aligned with the center of each pulley axis and draw a line on each pulley from the center in the direction of the other pulley.

?

Now if you were using toothed belts months/years later when you turn the spindle by hand until the lines point to each other a ruler will show they still line up.

?

The question is, over a few minutes, hours, days will the lines on the non-toothed belt pulleys still line up??

?

If they do you won't have slippage. If they don't and it's in the minutes or hours then you can't trust their position accuracy.

?

John Dammeyer

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of alexphredorg
Sent: April-19-20 11:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

How does a toothed belt provide higher accuracy than a round belt between the encoder and spindle? ?Assume high quality bearings and essentially zero friction at the encoder side.

?

A timing belt is ideal, but in my case it wasn¡¯t a good option and the round belt has been working well including with thread cutting. ?A timing belt for me either would have added the lash and noise of a gear train or would require making a custom two part pulley that clamped around the narrow part of my spindle ¡ª that would potentially also add inaccuracies.

?

?

?

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:03:03 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

There is no way I would ever use a flat or round belt to drive an
encoder if I wanted an accurate pulse train that matched the rotation
being sensed.
Torque has nothing to do with it, we are solely interested in the
accuracy of the drive ratio be it 1:1 10:1 3:1 or whatever. A flat or
Vee belt cannot provide that accuracy.
Richard

On 19/04/2020 17:00, alexphredorg wrote:
> Check Amazon and eBay for HTD pulleys with 3mm pitch.
>
> Remember that you have a lathe, so you can bore out a 12mm or 15mm
> pulley to 3/4¡± pretty easily. ?For my Emco lathe (8mm stepper, 19 or
> 20mm leadscrew) I found a stock set that worked without any
> modifications.
>
> 19mm is extremely close to 3/4¡± too, so keep an eye out for that size.
>
> The stepper drive needs a toothed timing belt so that it won¡¯t slip.
> ?The very low torque encoder can be done with a flat, V or round belt.
>
>
>
>
> alex
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
> behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 7:50:55 AM
> *To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
> *Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
> The lead-screw on my lathe is about 20mm diameter and 3mm pitch so very
> close to yours.
> I run a 3Nm stepper on my system with a 2:1 drive. A 40 tooth HTD pulley
> on the screw and a 20 tooth on the motor using a 5mm pitch 15mm wide
> HTD belt.
> Belt and pulleys should be easily available from a good stockist, though
> in fact I made my 20 tooth pulley.
> Do not even consider using round belting to drive a lead-screw if the
> ultimate aim is some sort of ELS.
> Richard
>
> On 19/04/2020 15:37, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> > Looking?for pulley and belt suggestions.
> > I have 3.10Nm stepper with a 8mm shaft.
> > My leadscrew is 3/4 - 8tpi.
> > The stepper has been criticised as to small for that leadscrew and
> > suggestion to use pulleys.
> > So where do I find a pulley with a 3/4 bore and a matching (smaller)
> > 8mm bore?
> > Most 3/4 bore pulleys use a 4L V belt.
> > I wonder if I could use some round urethane belting? A 5-6 mm round
> > belt might run in a 4L grove.
> > Ralph
> > --
> > Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> > press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> > printer
> >
>
>
>
>
>


Re: #MISC Pulleys? #MISC

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I'm guessing from this photo

that the large driven step pulley comes off.

That means it would be relatively easy to bore a hole in a larger diameter toothed pulley that allows you to place it right where you have your rubber belt.? And use an identically sized pulley on your encoder.

?

So I believe it's possible but if what you have is working and you are happy with the results then leave it.?

John

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of alexphredorg
Sent: April-20-20 9:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

That¡¯s the test that I did John. I left it running for an hour and alignment was still good. ?Overall I think the accuracy is better than when running with a many stage gear train. ?It¡¯s a lot quieter too.

?

This doesn¡¯t account for any per revolution noise. For instance an ovalized pulley could have the same circumference and match after days of running, but would create bad threads. ?I did see this when I first made my belt and it had bump where the belt was welded. ?

?

I¡¯m open for ideas on how to do a timing belt on my lathe. I thought through a lot of options, but didn¡¯t come up with anything that wasn¡¯t a lot of work (like a two piece pulley or shimmed pulley).

?

alex

?

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Dammeyer via groups.io <johnd@...>
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 9:04:12 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

Perhaps do an experiment for all of us. Here's the premise.

?

As long as the two pulley V grooves are identical in shape and depth and the same diameter of course and the belt is the same diameter over its entire length the encoder and the spindle should stay in sync.

?

So with the lathe stopped place a ruler along both pulleys aligned with the center of each pulley axis and draw a line on each pulley from the center in the direction of the other pulley.

?

Now if you were using toothed belts months/years later when you turn the spindle by hand until the lines point to each other a ruler will show they still line up.

?

The question is, over a few minutes, hours, days will the lines on the non-toothed belt pulleys still line up??

?

If they do you won't have slippage. If they don't and it's in the minutes or hours then you can't trust their position accuracy.

?

John Dammeyer

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of alexphredorg
Sent: April-19-20 11:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

How does a toothed belt provide higher accuracy than a round belt between the encoder and spindle? ?Assume high quality bearings and essentially zero friction at the encoder side.

?

A timing belt is ideal, but in my case it wasn¡¯t a good option and the round belt has been working well including with thread cutting. ?A timing belt for me either would have added the lash and noise of a gear train or would require making a custom two part pulley that clamped around the narrow part of my spindle ¡ª that would potentially also add inaccuracies.

?

?

?

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:03:03 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

There is no way I would ever use a flat or round belt to drive an
encoder if I wanted an accurate pulse train that matched the rotation
being sensed.
Torque has nothing to do with it, we are solely interested in the
accuracy of the drive ratio be it 1:1 10:1 3:1 or whatever. A flat or
Vee belt cannot provide that accuracy.
Richard

On 19/04/2020 17:00, alexphredorg wrote:
> Check Amazon and eBay for HTD pulleys with 3mm pitch.
>
> Remember that you have a lathe, so you can bore out a 12mm or 15mm
> pulley to 3/4¡± pretty easily. ?For my Emco lathe (8mm stepper, 19 or
> 20mm leadscrew) I found a stock set that worked without any
> modifications.
>
> 19mm is extremely close to 3/4¡± too, so keep an eye out for that size.
>
> The stepper drive needs a toothed timing belt so that it won¡¯t slip.
> ?The very low torque encoder can be done with a flat, V or round belt.
>
>
>
>
> alex
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
> behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 7:50:55 AM
> *To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
> *Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
> The lead-screw on my lathe is about 20mm diameter and 3mm pitch so very
> close to yours.
> I run a 3Nm stepper on my system with a 2:1 drive. A 40 tooth HTD pulley
> on the screw and a 20 tooth on the motor using a 5mm pitch 15mm wide
> HTD belt.
> Belt and pulleys should be easily available from a good stockist, though
> in fact I made my 20 tooth pulley.
> Do not even consider using round belting to drive a lead-screw if the
> ultimate aim is some sort of ELS.
> Richard
>
> On 19/04/2020 15:37, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> > Looking?for pulley and belt suggestions.
> > I have 3.10Nm stepper with a 8mm shaft.
> > My leadscrew is 3/4 - 8tpi.
> > The stepper has been criticised as to small for that leadscrew and
> > suggestion to use pulleys.
> > So where do I find a pulley with a 3/4 bore and a matching (smaller)
> > 8mm bore?
> > Most 3/4 bore pulleys use a 4L V belt.
> > I wonder if I could use some round urethane belting? A 5-6 mm round
> > belt might run in a 4L grove.
> > Ralph
> > --
> > Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> > press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> > printer
> >
>
>
>
>
>


Re: #MISC Pulleys? #MISC

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

That¡¯s the test that I did John. I left it running for an hour and alignment was still good. ?Overall I think the accuracy is better than when running with a many stage gear train. ?It¡¯s a lot quieter too.

This doesn¡¯t account for any per revolution noise. For instance an ovalized pulley could have the same circumference and match after days of running, but would create bad threads. ?I did see this when I first made my belt and it had bump where the belt was welded. ?

I¡¯m open for ideas on how to do a timing belt on my lathe. I thought through a lot of options, but didn¡¯t come up with anything that wasn¡¯t a lot of work (like a two piece pulley or shimmed pulley).

alex

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Dammeyer via groups.io <johnd@...>
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 9:04:12 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
?

Perhaps do an experiment for all of us. Here's the premise.

?

As long as the two pulley V grooves are identical in shape and depth and the same diameter of course and the belt is the same diameter over its entire length the encoder and the spindle should stay in sync.

?

So with the lathe stopped place a ruler along both pulleys aligned with the center of each pulley axis and draw a line on each pulley from the center in the direction of the other pulley.

?

Now if you were using toothed belts months/years later when you turn the spindle by hand until the lines point to each other a ruler will show they still line up.

?

The question is, over a few minutes, hours, days will the lines on the non-toothed belt pulleys still line up??

?

If they do you won't have slippage. If they don't and it's in the minutes or hours then you can't trust their position accuracy.

?

John Dammeyer

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of alexphredorg
Sent: April-19-20 11:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

How does a toothed belt provide higher accuracy than a round belt between the encoder and spindle? ?Assume high quality bearings and essentially zero friction at the encoder side.

?

A timing belt is ideal, but in my case it wasn¡¯t a good option and the round belt has been working well including with thread cutting. ?A timing belt for me either would have added the lash and noise of a gear train or would require making a custom two part pulley that clamped around the narrow part of my spindle ¡ª that would potentially also add inaccuracies.

?

?

?

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:03:03 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

There is no way I would ever use a flat or round belt to drive an
encoder if I wanted an accurate pulse train that matched the rotation
being sensed.
Torque has nothing to do with it, we are solely interested in the
accuracy of the drive ratio be it 1:1 10:1 3:1 or whatever. A flat or
Vee belt cannot provide that accuracy.
Richard

On 19/04/2020 17:00, alexphredorg wrote:
> Check Amazon and eBay for HTD pulleys with 3mm pitch.
>
> Remember that you have a lathe, so you can bore out a 12mm or 15mm
> pulley to 3/4¡± pretty easily. ?For my Emco lathe (8mm stepper, 19 or
> 20mm leadscrew) I found a stock set that worked without any
> modifications.
>
> 19mm is extremely close to 3/4¡± too, so keep an eye out for that size.
>
> The stepper drive needs a toothed timing belt so that it won¡¯t slip.
> ?The very low torque encoder can be done with a flat, V or round belt.
>
>
>
>
> alex
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
> behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 7:50:55 AM
> *To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
> *Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
> The lead-screw on my lathe is about 20mm diameter and 3mm pitch so very
> close to yours.
> I run a 3Nm stepper on my system with a 2:1 drive. A 40 tooth HTD pulley
> on the screw and a 20 tooth on the motor using a 5mm pitch 15mm wide
> HTD belt.
> Belt and pulleys should be easily available from a good stockist, though
> in fact I made my 20 tooth pulley.
> Do not even consider using round belting to drive a lead-screw if the
> ultimate aim is some sort of ELS.
> Richard
>
> On 19/04/2020 15:37, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> > Looking?for pulley and belt suggestions.
> > I have 3.10Nm stepper with a 8mm shaft.
> > My leadscrew is 3/4 - 8tpi.
> > The stepper has been criticised as to small for that leadscrew and
> > suggestion to use pulleys.
> > So where do I find a pulley with a 3/4 bore and a matching (smaller)
> > 8mm bore?
> > Most 3/4 bore pulleys use a 4L V belt.
> > I wonder if I could use some round urethane belting? A 5-6 mm round
> > belt might run in a 4L grove.
> > Ralph
> > --
> > Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> > press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> > printer
> >
>
>
>
>
>



Re: #MISC Pulleys? #MISC

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Perhaps do an experiment for all of us. Here's the premise.

?

As long as the two pulley V grooves are identical in shape and depth and the same diameter of course and the belt is the same diameter over its entire length the encoder and the spindle should stay in sync.

?

So with the lathe stopped place a ruler along both pulleys aligned with the center of each pulley axis and draw a line on each pulley from the center in the direction of the other pulley.

?

Now if you were using toothed belts months/years later when you turn the spindle by hand until the lines point to each other a ruler will show they still line up.

?

The question is, over a few minutes, hours, days will the lines on the non-toothed belt pulleys still line up??

?

If they do you won't have slippage. If they don't and it's in the minutes or hours then you can't trust their position accuracy.

?

John Dammeyer

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of alexphredorg
Sent: April-19-20 11:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

How does a toothed belt provide higher accuracy than a round belt between the encoder and spindle? ?Assume high quality bearings and essentially zero friction at the encoder side.

?

A timing belt is ideal, but in my case it wasn¡¯t a good option and the round belt has been working well including with thread cutting. ?A timing belt for me either would have added the lash and noise of a gear train or would require making a custom two part pulley that clamped around the narrow part of my spindle ¡ª that would potentially also add inaccuracies.

?

?

?

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:03:03 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?

?

There is no way I would ever use a flat or round belt to drive an
encoder if I wanted an accurate pulse train that matched the rotation
being sensed.
Torque has nothing to do with it, we are solely interested in the
accuracy of the drive ratio be it 1:1 10:1 3:1 or whatever. A flat or
Vee belt cannot provide that accuracy.
Richard

On 19/04/2020 17:00, alexphredorg wrote:
> Check Amazon and eBay for HTD pulleys with 3mm pitch.
>
> Remember that you have a lathe, so you can bore out a 12mm or 15mm
> pulley to 3/4¡± pretty easily. ?For my Emco lathe (8mm stepper, 19 or
> 20mm leadscrew) I found a stock set that worked without any
> modifications.
>
> 19mm is extremely close to 3/4¡± too, so keep an eye out for that size.
>
> The stepper drive needs a toothed timing belt so that it won¡¯t slip.
> ?The very low torque encoder can be done with a flat, V or round belt.
>
>
>
>
> alex
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
> behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 7:50:55 AM
> *To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
> *Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
> The lead-screw on my lathe is about 20mm diameter and 3mm pitch so very
> close to yours.
> I run a 3Nm stepper on my system with a 2:1 drive. A 40 tooth HTD pulley
> on the screw and a 20 tooth on the motor using a 5mm pitch 15mm wide
> HTD belt.
> Belt and pulleys should be easily available from a good stockist, though
> in fact I made my 20 tooth pulley.
> Do not even consider using round belting to drive a lead-screw if the
> ultimate aim is some sort of ELS.
> Richard
>
> On 19/04/2020 15:37, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> > Looking?for pulley and belt suggestions.
> > I have 3.10Nm stepper with a 8mm shaft.
> > My leadscrew is 3/4 - 8tpi.
> > The stepper has been criticised as to small for that leadscrew and
> > suggestion to use pulleys.
> > So where do I find a pulley with a 3/4 bore and a matching (smaller)
> > 8mm bore?
> > Most 3/4 bore pulleys use a 4L V belt.
> > I wonder if I could use some round urethane belting? A 5-6 mm round
> > belt might run in a 4L grove.
> > Ralph
> > --
> > Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> > press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> > printer
> >
>
>
>
>
>



Re: #MISC Pulleys? #MISC

Richard
 

Ok I see that you have some problems which you have dealt with in your
own way.
As far as I am concerned the only way I can guarantee a correct
relationship between spindle position and encoder position is with a
timing belt.
Our attitudes obviously differ lets leave it at that.
Keep safe
Richard

On 20/04/2020 15:47, alexphredorg wrote:
The gear teeth are cut directly into the spindle.? The spindle is also
larger at the left end, where the drive pulley mounts. There is a
photo here:

<>
and this shows the whole arrangement:


The orange belt is sitting at the edge where the spindle diameter
increases from 40mm to 44mm.

There is a difference between ideal and "there is no way".? I'm still
trying to understand why you think a timing belt is required.

alex
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
*Sent:* Monday, April 20, 2020 1:42 AM
*To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
You say a timing belt is ideal, so you recognise the advantages. I am
surprised that you cannot fit a timing pulley on your spindle, can you
not just replace the original gear driving the change wheels?
Richard

On 19/04/2020 19:14, alexphredorg wrote:
How does a toothed belt provide higher accuracy than a round belt
between the encoder and spindle? ?Assume high quality bearings and
essentially zero friction at the encoder side.

A timing belt is ideal, but in my case it wasn¡¯t a good option and the
round belt has been working well including with thread cutting. ?A
timing belt for me either would have added the lash and noise of a
gear train or would require making a custom two part pulley that
clamped around the narrow part of my spindle ¡ª that would potentially
also add inaccuracies.



alex
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
*Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:03:03 AM
*To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
There is no way I would ever use a flat or round belt to drive an
encoder if I wanted an accurate pulse train that matched the rotation
being sensed.
Torque has nothing to do with it, we are solely interested in the
accuracy of the drive ratio be it 1:1 10:1 3:1 or whatever. A flat or
Vee belt cannot provide that accuracy.
Richard

On 19/04/2020 17:00, alexphredorg wrote:
Check Amazon and eBay for HTD pulleys with 3mm pitch.

Remember that you have a lathe, so you can bore out a 12mm or 15mm
pulley to 3/4¡± pretty easily. ?For my Emco lathe (8mm stepper, 19 or
20mm leadscrew) I found a stock set that worked without any
modifications.

19mm is extremely close to 3/4¡± too, so keep an eye out for that size.

The stepper drive needs a toothed timing belt so that it won¡¯t slip.
?The very low torque encoder can be done with a flat, V or round belt.




alex
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
*Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 7:50:55 AM
*To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
The lead-screw on my lathe is about 20mm diameter and 3mm pitch so
very
close to yours.
I run a 3Nm stepper on my system with a 2:1 drive. A 40 tooth HTD
pulley
on the screw and a 20 tooth on the motor using a 5mm pitch 15mm wide
HTD belt.
Belt and pulleys should be easily available from a good stockist,
though
in fact I made my 20 tooth pulley.
Do not even consider using round belting to drive a lead-screw if the
ultimate aim is some sort of ELS.
Richard

On 19/04/2020 15:37, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
Looking?for pulley and belt suggestions.
I have 3.10Nm stepper with a 8mm shaft.
My leadscrew is 3/4 - 8tpi.
The stepper has been criticised as to small for that leadscrew and
suggestion to use pulleys.
So where do I find a pulley with a 3/4 bore and a matching (smaller)
8mm bore?
Most 3/4 bore pulleys use a 4L V belt.
I wonder if I could use some round urethane belting? A 5-6 mm round
belt might run in a 4L grove.
Ralph
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta
drill
press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D
printer
Re: #MISC Pulleys? #MISC

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The gear teeth are cut directly into the spindle.? The spindle is also larger at the left end, where the drive pulley mounts.? There is a photo here:

and this shows the whole arrangement:


The orange belt is sitting at the edge where the spindle diameter increases from 40mm to 44mm.

There is a difference between ideal and "there is no way".? I'm still trying to understand why you think a timing belt is required.

alex

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 1:42 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
?
You say a timing belt is ideal, so you recognise the advantages. I am
surprised that you cannot fit a timing pulley on your spindle, can you
not just replace the original gear driving the change wheels?
Richard

On 19/04/2020 19:14, alexphredorg wrote:
> How does a toothed belt provide higher accuracy than a round belt
> between the encoder and spindle? ?Assume high quality bearings and
> essentially zero friction at the encoder side.
>
> A timing belt is ideal, but in my case it wasn¡¯t a good option and the
> round belt has been working well including with thread cutting. ?A
> timing belt for me either would have added the lash and noise of a
> gear train or would require making a custom two part pulley that
> clamped around the narrow part of my spindle ¡ª that would potentially
> also add inaccuracies.
>
>
>
> alex
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
> behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:03:03 AM
> *To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
> *Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
> There is no way I would ever use a flat or round belt to drive an
> encoder if I wanted an accurate pulse train that matched the rotation
> being sensed.
> Torque has nothing to do with it, we are solely interested in the
> accuracy of the drive ratio be it 1:1 10:1 3:1 or whatever. A flat or
> Vee belt cannot provide that accuracy.
> Richard
>
> On 19/04/2020 17:00, alexphredorg wrote:
> > Check Amazon and eBay for HTD pulleys with 3mm pitch.
> >
> > Remember that you have a lathe, so you can bore out a 12mm or 15mm
> > pulley to 3/4¡± pretty easily. ?For my Emco lathe (8mm stepper, 19 or
> > 20mm leadscrew) I found a stock set that worked without any
> > modifications.
> >
> > 19mm is extremely close to 3/4¡± too, so keep an eye out for that size.
> >
> > The stepper drive needs a toothed timing belt so that it won¡¯t slip.
> > ?The very low torque encoder can be done with a flat, V or round belt.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > alex
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
> > behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
> > *Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 7:50:55 AM
> > *To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
> > *Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
> > The lead-screw on my lathe is about 20mm diameter and 3mm pitch so very
> > close to yours.
> > I run a 3Nm stepper on my system with a 2:1 drive. A 40 tooth HTD pulley
> > on the screw and a 20 tooth on the motor using a 5mm pitch 15mm wide
> > HTD belt.
> > Belt and pulleys should be easily available from a good stockist, though
> > in fact I made my 20 tooth pulley.
> > Do not even consider using round belting to drive a lead-screw if the
> > ultimate aim is some sort of ELS.
> > Richard
> >
> > On 19/04/2020 15:37, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> > > Looking?for pulley and belt suggestions.
> > > I have 3.10Nm stepper with a 8mm shaft.
> > > My leadscrew is 3/4 - 8tpi.
> > > The stepper has been criticised as to small for that leadscrew and
> > > suggestion to use pulleys.
> > > So where do I find a pulley with a 3/4 bore and a matching (smaller)
> > > 8mm bore?
> > > Most 3/4 bore pulleys use a 4L V belt.
> > > I wonder if I could use some round urethane belting? A 5-6 mm round
> > > belt might run in a 4L grove.
> > > Ralph
> > > --
> > > Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> > > press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> > > printer
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>




Re: #MISC Pulleys? #MISC

Richard
 

You say a timing belt is ideal, so you recognise the advantages. I am
surprised that you cannot fit a timing pulley on your spindle, can you
not just replace the original gear driving the change wheels?
Richard

On 19/04/2020 19:14, alexphredorg wrote:
How does a toothed belt provide higher accuracy than a round belt
between the encoder and spindle? ?Assume high quality bearings and
essentially zero friction at the encoder side.

A timing belt is ideal, but in my case it wasn¡¯t a good option and the
round belt has been working well including with thread cutting. ?A
timing belt for me either would have added the lash and noise of a
gear train or would require making a custom two part pulley that
clamped around the narrow part of my spindle ¡ª that would potentially
also add inaccuracies.



alex
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
*Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:03:03 AM
*To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
There is no way I would ever use a flat or round belt to drive an
encoder if I wanted an accurate pulse train that matched the rotation
being sensed.
Torque has nothing to do with it, we are solely interested in the
accuracy of the drive ratio be it 1:1 10:1 3:1 or whatever. A flat or
Vee belt cannot provide that accuracy.
Richard

On 19/04/2020 17:00, alexphredorg wrote:
Check Amazon and eBay for HTD pulleys with 3mm pitch.

Remember that you have a lathe, so you can bore out a 12mm or 15mm
pulley to 3/4¡± pretty easily. ?For my Emco lathe (8mm stepper, 19 or
20mm leadscrew) I found a stock set that worked without any
modifications.

19mm is extremely close to 3/4¡± too, so keep an eye out for that size.

The stepper drive needs a toothed timing belt so that it won¡¯t slip.
?The very low torque encoder can be done with a flat, V or round belt.




alex
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Richard via groups.io <edelec@...>
*Sent:* Sunday, April 19, 2020 7:50:55 AM
*To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [digitalhobbyist] #MISC Pulleys?
The lead-screw on my lathe is about 20mm diameter and 3mm pitch so very
close to yours.
I run a 3Nm stepper on my system with a 2:1 drive. A 40 tooth HTD pulley
on the screw and a 20 tooth on the motor using a 5mm pitch 15mm wide
HTD belt.
Belt and pulleys should be easily available from a good stockist, though
in fact I made my 20 tooth pulley.
Do not even consider using round belting to drive a lead-screw if the
ultimate aim is some sort of ELS.
Richard

On 19/04/2020 15:37, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
Looking?for pulley and belt suggestions.
I have 3.10Nm stepper with a 8mm shaft.
My leadscrew is 3/4 - 8tpi.
The stepper has been criticised as to small for that leadscrew and
suggestion to use pulleys.
So where do I find a pulley with a 3/4 bore and a matching (smaller)
8mm bore?
Most 3/4 bore pulleys use a 4L V belt.
I wonder if I could use some round urethane belting? A 5-6 mm round
belt might run in a 4L grove.
Ralph
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
printer
1181 - 1200 of 2018