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Re: RELS Progress #RELS

 

John,

Thanks!? And very nice work!

No problem re hijacking the thread; it was just about how I was progressing, and am happy to see others reporting on their progress...
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


Re: Other Options #3D

 

Richard,

Great idea!? I will have to try that...
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


Re: #LATHES Mini lathe saddle hand wheel. #LATHES

 

Hi, Bruce,

There are three primary ways to insert photos into our posts; insert (which will place the photo in the body of the text); attach (which will attach it to the email and require that you click on it to open the photo; and link (which will provide a link to the photo on a hosting service set up and maintained by the poster.)? It may be that John and other posters are using different methods, resulting in you receiving a link.

Alternatively, there is a setting in Groups.io that will automatically convert any photo to a link if the photo is larger than your set limit.? (See below.)? You can change this setting in the Subscription, Advanced section.? I hope this helps.


--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


Re: #LATHES Mini lathe saddle hand wheel. #LATHES

Bruce J
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

On Nov 22, 2019, at 9:53 PM, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

Always a popular topic.

Somewhat OT, but John, how do you put up these posts? Via an email client, a web-based email client or on the ?site?

Your photos always show up in my emails, but, for instance, Dave¡¯s clamp mod one shows up as links to the website

--?
Bruce Johnson

The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.


Other Options #3D

Richard
 

Here is an example of some very simple printing to allow me to mount
PCB's onto a chassis plate or wherever.
Just a couple of pieces of Industrial quality double sided (foam) tape
on the back and the job is done. The PCB's are Superglued onto the backings.
Richard


Grizzly G3616 #CNC #MILLS

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Probably should have changed the subject rather than hijacking your post.? Sorry.

?

Two other parts of this project are the HV power supply control. ?The board on the left has a relay and FET that shunts the power supply to either clamp an over voltage transient from a decelerating motor or when power is removed to discharge the capacitors as quickly as possible.

?

The board on the right receives it's control signal from the PIC processor on the Power Control board to limit inrush current on the AC side into the transformer.? Two seconds later it closes and shorts out this relay.

?

I also 3D printed a box that sits on the back mill power control box (Grizzly G3616 mill) and has two electronic circuit breakers that show voltage and current.? One supplies 220VAC to the 24V power supply, PMDX-126 and the PC/Monitor.? The other supplies AC to the big supplies for motor motion.

?

An ESTOP/FAULT removes power from all motion components while leaving the PC alive.

?

John

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Dammeyer
Sent: November-23-19 8:58 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] RELS Progress #RELS

?

Nice idea for the ventilator.

?

Still need to make the harm and support for the monitor/keyboard/mouse since the cabinet sits out of the way of chips and coolant.

?

And you're not the only one with overkill on power supply cabinets.?

?

The HV_Supply photo shows the 105VDC power supply for the XY and Harmonic Drive. The 60VDC supply is on the back and I can't get at it to make a photo at the moment.

?

The ControlSide photo shows:from top left to right, two HP_UHU drives (105VDC) for the X/Y axis, then another plate with a Gecko (60VDC) for the Knee Stepper motor (and a 24V to 16V regulator for the HP_UHU)? and finally the STMBL AC Servo Drive for the 4th axis harmonic drive.

?

Below that a DIN rail with a module I made to do level conversion of step/dir/enable/Fault to/from RS-422 for the STMBL drive along with DIN rail terminals.? On the right of that is a 24VDC switching power supply and at the bottom the PMDX-126 Break out Board.?

?

The small 3D printed box holds another custom board that just translates a DB-25 from the AC Servo into the two RJ-45 cables for the STMBL drive.

?

What's not shown is a second mounting board that holds either a SmoothStepper or MESA 7i92H.? At the moment I have the PC parallel port cable connected directly so I have only one parallel port and limited step rates.? With the Ethernet MESA 7i92H I get full 180 ipm on the X axis and can do all sorts of things to the PC without any motion control issues.? Same with the USB Smooth Stepper that I borrow from my CNC Router.?

?

I've not yet decided if I will finalize on MACH3 or LinuxCNC but all I have to do is select which OS to run from the dual boot.? No cables to change unless I'm using MESA or Smooth Stepper.

?

And I've 3D printed caps over the backs of the DC Servo CUI encoders.

?


Re: RELS Progress #RELS

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Nice idea for the ventilator.

?

Still need to make the harm and support for the monitor/keyboard/mouse since the cabinet sits out of the way of chips and coolant.

?

And you're not the only one with overkill on power supply cabinets.?

?

The HV_Supply photo shows the 105VDC power supply for the XY and Harmonic Drive. The 60VDC supply is on the back and I can't get at it to make a photo at the moment.

?

The ControlSide photo shows:from top left to right, two HP_UHU drives (105VDC) for the X/Y axis, then another plate with a Gecko (60VDC) for the Knee Stepper motor (and a 24V to 16V regulator for the HP_UHU) ?and finally the STMBL AC Servo Drive for the 4th axis harmonic drive.

?

Below that a DIN rail with a module I made to do level conversion of step/dir/enable/Fault to/from RS-422 for the STMBL drive along with DIN rail terminals.? On the right of that is a 24VDC switching power supply and at the bottom the PMDX-126 Break out Board.?

?

The small 3D printed box holds another custom board that just translates a DB-25 from the AC Servo into the two RJ-45 cables for the STMBL drive.

?

What's not shown is a second mounting board that holds either a SmoothStepper or MESA 7i92H.? At the moment I have the PC parallel port cable connected directly so I have only one parallel port and limited step rates. ?With the Ethernet MESA 7i92H I get full 180 ipm on the X axis and can do all sorts of things to the PC without any motion control issues.? Same with the USB Smooth Stepper that I borrow from my CNC Router.?

?

I've not yet decided if I will finalize on MACH3 or LinuxCNC but all I have to do is select which OS to run from the dual boot.? No cables to change unless I'm using MESA or Smooth Stepper.

?

And I've 3D printed caps over the backs of the DC Servo CUI encoders.

?

?

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of CLevinski
Sent: November-23-19 3:24 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] RELS Progress #RELS

?

Hello, All,

I have been busy pushing to get my RELS system up and running.? The mods to the lathe are all done.? As to the electronics, I have finished the power supply and joystick modules, and am working on the control module now.? See photos.? Topmost display in the control module is a tachometer; I didn't realize it was so large when I ordered it!

The blue, plastic "cap" on the top of the power supply module is a 3D-printed exhaust port.? A 120 mm fan is mounted in the bottom of the module, and acts to blow air into the module through a filter.? (The module will be mounted suspended off the floor, so there will be ample space for it to draw air.)? This creates positive pressure inside the power supply, and should help prevent the entry of dirt, dust and chips.? The exhaust port makes the air take a 180 degree turn before exiting, in order to further minimize dirt, dust and chips from entering the module.? This module itself contains the stepper power supply (36 volts/11 amps), two stepper drivers, a voltage "buck" converter to provide 12 volts for the other modules and the fan, the fan itself, and a circuit breaker and a power switch.? I happened to have the very large housing; it originally contained a HUGE Israeli linear power supply from 1950-something, which I stripped out to reuse the housing.

And, before anyone comments, "yes", the power supply design is definitely overkill!

The joystick module housing is 3D-printed; the design is John Lindo's, I just rearranged the components to suit my needs.


Re: #3D #3D

 

How long did it take to print those collet trays?

Ralph

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 6:02 AM CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:
John,

Nice job.? Once I get the RELS sorted out, I will have a little time and will start printing some of these type of boxes for various issues around the shop.? I know you have containers for your chucks, among other things.? If you have time, might you list the shop-related items you have printed?? It could give others some ideas of what to do in their shop.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer


Re: conning tower nut #MODS

 

Re conning tower nut discussion of October 10, 2019, photo below was?accidentally deleted... reposted here.


--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


RELS Progress #RELS

 
Edited

Hello, All,

I have been busy pushing to get my RELS system up and running.? The mods to the lathe are all done.? As to the electronics, I have finished the power supply and joystick modules, and am working on the control module now.? See photos.? Topmost display in the control module is a tachometer; I didn't realize it was so large when I ordered it!

The blue, plastic "cap" on the top of the power supply module is a 3D-printed exhaust port.? A 120 mm fan is mounted in the bottom of the module, and acts to blow air into the module through a filter.? (The module will be mounted suspended off the floor, so there will be ample space for it to draw air.)? This creates positive pressure inside the power supply, and should help prevent the entry of dirt, dust and chips.? The exhaust port makes the air take a 180 degree turn before exiting, in order to further minimize dirt, dust and chips from entering the module.? This module itself contains the stepper power supply (36 volts/11 amps), two stepper drivers, a voltage "buck" converter to provide 12 volts for the other modules and the fan, the fan itself, and a circuit breaker and a power switch.? I happened to have the very large housing; it originally contained a HUGE Israeli linear power supply from 1950-something, which I stripped out to reuse the housing.

And, before anyone comments, "yes", the power supply design is definitely overkill!

The joystick module housing is 3D-printed; the design is John Lindo's, I just rearranged the components to suit my needs.

??????

????
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


Re: #3D #3D

 

John,

Nice job.? Once I get the RELS sorted out, I will have a little time and will start printing some of these type of boxes for various issues around the shop.? I know you have containers for your chucks, among other things.? If you have time, might you list the shop-related items you have printed?? It could give others some ideas of what to do in their shop.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


Re: #GR #GR

 

John,

Gear Reduction v.2.0 came out very well!? Nice job!

I see that you are in love with your 125 mm chuck...
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


Re: #3D #3D

 

John,

Very nice!? I'd like to do something similar...
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


Re: #3D #3D

 

This is just what I want to do in ER 25 & ER 32 when I get round to getting a 3D printer you made a brilliant job of them.

Phill


Re: #GR #GR

 

Hi John really nice neat job. I am in the process of converting my DB7 lathe to VFD? got the 3 phase 4 pole motor and inverter and waiting on some parts. There is no back gear on these lathes just a series of reduction pulleys with the associated DC motor 0.6 HP with poor torque on low speeds

Regards Les


On Saturday, 23 November 2019, 04:12:28 GMT, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:


This week
Finished the new Mk 2 gear reduction unit.
Frame CNC milled, gears CNC cut.
Bench tested, surprisingly not noisy.?
Mk1 Gear Reduction gears are nylon, they have never been a problem, but the 125 mm dia mm now being my predominant chuck?
of choice,?the phosphor bronze gears will be stronger on spindle start ups.


--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

That's a really good idea.? Can you make the file availalble?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: November-22-19 8:19 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] #3D

?

This week.

Printed 2 x trays for holding my ER 32 collets.
Trays fit in the mill table drawer.
Originally they were loose in flimsy cardboard boxes, designed with the
ER 32 16 degree inclusive taper.
Also useful for storing eggs during Easter egg hunts. LOL
Hope of interest.

--
John


#LATHES Mini lathe saddle hand wheel. #LATHES

 

Always a popular topic.
Swapped my original plastic handwheel after it broke at the hub, made an aluminum large replacement.
Then got around to fit on a graduated ring, engraving done with an #ESI?
Interesting, one complete turn moves the saddle 19.07? mm, that is why the grad collar reaches 19.not as you would expect 20?
This graduations on the handwheel was very useful as a guide in the past, but now has become secondary, but 3 years ago I fitted a DRO?s? on the X and? Z axis.
but no DRO on the Y axis as i do not have a compound slide anymore.,?IMHO not necessary with the ELS fitted.A real flimsy design.

Also a few years ago, I dumped the knuckle buster X and Y axis handwheels IMHO ( an awful design) for the larger conventional round types.
from the photos, Note the feed screw covers, these really work out well keeping the chips and crud off the split nuts.
Some Real Bull lathes shipped to Australia, this was a standard fitting, but got mine through Amadeal UK.
Hope of interest.




--
John


#3D #3D

 

Printed a lid and box for my involute cutters.
Lid a nice snap fit onto the base.
The lettering printed and filled in with a white marker pen.


--
John


#3D #3D

 

This week.

Printed 2 x trays for holding my ER 32 collets.
Trays fit in the mill table drawer.
Originally they were loose in flimsy cardboard boxes, designed with the
ER 32 16 degree inclusive taper.
Also useful for storing eggs during Easter egg hunts. LOL
Hope of interest.

--
John


#GR #GR

 

This week
Finished the new Mk 2 gear reduction unit.
Frame CNC milled, gears CNC cut.
Bench tested, surprisingly not noisy.?
Mk1 Gear Reduction gears are nylon, they have never been a problem, but the 125 mm dia mm now being my predominant chuck?
of choice,?the phosphor bronze gears will be stronger on spindle start ups.


--
John