I played around with lots of control systems and have settled on running linuxCNC on a PC with ethernet Mesa cards. Parallel ports are slightly cheaper but run out of bandwidth for encoders. I have a Mesa 7i92 and a 7i96 and I think the 7i96 might be a better fit for you. (you shouldn't need the chinesium break out board) If you go the linuxCNC/Mesa route it's really convenient to have one network connection for the Mesa card and another network connection for internet and other networking tasks. (like sharing your CAM files) I used a raspberry pi 4 with the?mesa card for a little while, then a dumpster diving friend delivered 18 used medical computers and I switched all my machines to touch screen PCs with dual network connections. (if you are interested, I still have four computer systems available?on ebay. search "linuxcnc touchscreen")
I have been very happy with some cheap closed loop steppers on my Rockwell vertical mill. My 9x20 uses a Gecko 540?and I just added linear scales. Going forward, I think I will go with closed loop steppers or try servos.
I have settled on the Meanwell RSP-1000-48 as my goto 1000W power supply. I have purchased several from ebay?for ~$100. They are quiet rock solid power supplies.
WIth LinuxCNC you could use either open or closed loop steppers AND use the build in DRO scales for position feedback. (This would require adding a Mesa 7i85s for the extra encoder channels.) There is good support in LinuxCNC for this. I think you will save a lot of projects by integrating your existing DROs into the control system. Basically, it will stop if the DRO doesn't match what the gcode?says. With my mill, I started using linuxCNC as a simple DRO.display without any motor control for?a?couple?months. Then added motors. Next up is adding a spindle encoder for rigid tapping. I like the fact that closed loop steppers provide an alarm signal if they can't achieve the desired position. My lathe and router started out with motors couplers. My mill uses a timing belt for the z and recently I changed my lathe x to a timing belt. 3D printed timing gears work fantastic if you have access to a printer. Belts give you a lot of options for motor placement and you can gear up/down.
On the CAD side, Fusion360 has a learning curve but there are a lot of youtube how to videos.
Rockwell vertical mill - LinuxCNC touchscreen PC,?closed loop steppers, linear encoders XYZ, VFD for spindle. Logitech jog. Jet 920 9x20 lathe - LinuxCNC touchscreen PC, open loop steppers with Gecko 540, linear encoders XZ and 260 pulses per rev spindle encoder, VFD for spindle. z touch off, Logitech jog. Homebuilt Aluminum extrusion router - LinuxCNC touchscreen PC, open?
loop steppers with Gecko 540, z touchoff?Logitech jog. Homebuilt Aluminum extrusion 3D printer running Marlin.
Hello, All,
I see from the lack of posts that we've all been busy with getting back to our lives as the COVID pandemic seems to gradually be coming under control. I must admit that it feels good to eat in an actual restaurant and meet friends face to face after such a long hiatus!
I have been considering doing an CNC conversion to my mini-mill for a while. Though I am fairly happy with my current mill, there are some weaknesses: rack and pinion drive for the Z-axis, a poor gib arrangement that requires frequent adjusting, and no quill, to name a few. So, after some research, I purchased the Grizzly M1116 mini-mill. I am a bit excited, as evidenced by the fact that I changed the cover photo to an image of this mill! It has a Z-axis lead screw drive, tapered gibs, a quill, and built in DROs. You can review the full spec . I purchased the Grizzly stand with it, as well. Unfortunately, a knee injury has me sidelined at the present so it is sitting in my garage, waiting for me to arrange transport to my basement. All I can do is look inside the crate!
I know that a number of you have done CNC conversions, and would like to ask what CNC hardware/controller you use and what you consider its advantages and disadvantages?
As usual with me, I am sure that the conversion will take a while. I am not known for my rapid completion of projects! So I will keep the project status updated here.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
|
Hi Charlie
Thanks for the photo update and your post.
I have owned for over 16 years 2 of these type Weiss mills, may latest has a longer X table than my original purchase.
With all the other benefits you have metioned the column is fixed as opposed to the Sieg type swinging arm. I have never been a fan of this type mill
and the major players in the USA of mini mills Grizzly LMS Shop Fox etc are promtoing the fixed column, needless to say the the head can still be tilted if required.?
Confident that you will be pleased with all the benfits of your new mini mill as you have mentioned.
My current mill is fully CNC and including a 4th A axis for indexing.
Basically I started by simple power feeding the X axis and then the Z axis with Nema 23 steppers and control boxes using Arduino boards.
From there I fitted a DDCNC control box adding power feed to the Y axis.
Currently I now have the option by swapping leads (4 pin Q/R aircraft disconnects) to have basic power feed to the X and Z?
and full X Y Z A? axis CNC.
When it is the right time I can supply full info including photos of Weiss/ Grizzly type mills for CNC conversion.
Thanks
--
John
|
I'm not finished with my mill conversion yet although this week I was able to successfully power tap both 10-32 and 1/4-20. This included setting up the tool table for the center drill, the #7 drill bit and the 1/4-20 along with the two pieces for the 10-32.? Movement to the Tool Change Position and then once changed automatically back to do the next step. ? My mill is similar to the discontinued Grizzly G3616.
? It now has an Bergerda 1800W AC Servo for the spindle with custom cast and turned pulleys running step/dir control so I can turn 1 RPM if I want.? The X and Y are run with DC Servos with HP_UHU servo drivers. ?The A rotary axis, not yet finished in a permanent holder is a harmonic drive based unit with AC servo run with a STMBL kit also step/dir and finally the knee was upgraded from a 1200 oz-in stepper with one of the indistructable Gecko drivers with no response from Gecko about it.? The knee now has a 750W AC servo. ? Knee and Y axis can do 150 ipm with their current toothed belt configuration and the X can do 180 ipm. ? Initial movement was done with a BeagleBone Black and MachineKit and a Xylotex cape but that was scrapped because the Xylotex uses Normally Open limit switch operation which I feel is dangerous.? I then switched to a dual boot PC for both LinuxCNC and WIN-XP c/w MACH3.? Running off the parallel port to a PMDX-126 Break Out Board. ? ? I did temporarily move the USB Smooth Stepper from the CNC router over to the Mill PC into the PMDX-126 in order to get higher stepping rates.? However the price of the Ethernet Smooth Stepper was almost double the price of the MESA 7i92H Ethernet to Parallel. ?So I started using LinuxCNC more and more. ? It's a tough call.? LinuxCNC does not have as good a user interface as MACH3 does.? No wizards to make it easy to do some of the standard operations.? MACH3 is more limited in dealing with off the wall solutions that end up being easier with the INI and HAL file capabilities in LinuxCNC.? Over time I've learned enough of the G-Code stuff to now be very comfortable in Linux. ?I haven't changed my CNC router over yet though ?but then the router can't have TT tooling nor synchronized spindle.? MACH3 can't really do power tapping without one of the vere expensive floating collet holders and even then I'm not sure how good it is at it. ? I started writing an article on the dual boot and conversion process but that's been delegated to project #42 at the moment.? ? From a pure cost perspective an $88US MESA 7i92 to a cheap Chinese BoB ($8) with a Pi4-2GB running LinuxCNC is the easiest.? I have that setup on my workbench connected to a stepper motor for knee behavior and a smaller 400W Bergerda AC servo coupled to an encoder.? That was all for testing the tapping stuff. ? The Pi4 isn't in the photo but I think you get the idea of just how easy this is.? I have lots of pictures. John Dammeyer ? ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of CLevinski
Sent: July-17-21 2:11 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] New Mill and CNC Conversion #MILLS #CNC? Hello, All,
I see from the lack of posts that we've all been busy with getting back to our lives as the COVID pandemic seems to gradually be coming under control. I must admit that it feels good to eat in an actual restaurant and meet friends face to face after such a long hiatus!
I have been considering doing an CNC conversion to my mini-mill for a while. Though I am fairly happy with my current mill, there are some weaknesses: rack and pinion drive for the Z-axis, a poor gib arrangement that requires frequent adjusting, and no quill, to name a few. So, after some research, I purchased the Grizzly M1116 mini-mill. I am a bit excited, as evidenced by the fact that I changed the cover photo to an image of this mill! It has a Z-axis lead screw drive, tapered gibs, a quill, and built in DROs. You can review the full spec . I purchased the Grizzly stand with it, as well. Unfortunately, a knee injury has me sidelined at the present so it is sitting in my garage, waiting for me to arrange transport to my basement. All I can do is look inside the crate!
I know that a number of you have done CNC conversions, and would like to ask what CNC hardware/controller you use and what you consider its advantages and disadvantages?
As usual with me, I am sure that the conversion will take a while. I am not known for my rapid completion of projects! So I will keep the project status updated here.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
|
Hi Charlie, it has been quiet this past year.
Besides motorizing my Z and X on my Craftsman 12x36 lathe I also bought? the kit for my Clausing 8520 vertical?mill. Of course it is sitting somewhere in my shop unopened. I am busy now with the garden and a lot of major household construction projects. Hopefully?I will finish the lathe and maybe the mill this winter.
Ralph
Hello, All,
I see from the lack of posts that we've all been busy with getting back to our lives as the COVID pandemic seems to gradually be coming under control. I must admit that it feels good to eat in an actual restaurant and meet friends face to face after such a long hiatus!
I have been considering doing an CNC conversion to my mini-mill for a while. Though I am fairly happy with my current mill, there are some weaknesses: rack and pinion drive for the Z-axis, a poor gib arrangement that requires frequent adjusting, and no quill, to name a few. So, after some research, I purchased the Grizzly M1116 mini-mill. I am a bit excited, as evidenced by the fact that I changed the cover photo to an image of this mill! It has a Z-axis lead screw drive, tapered gibs, a quill, and built in DROs. You can review the full spec . I purchased the Grizzly stand with it, as well. Unfortunately, a knee injury has me sidelined at the present so it is sitting in my garage, waiting for me to arrange transport to my basement. All I can do is look inside the crate!
I know that a number of you have done CNC conversions, and would like to ask what CNC hardware/controller you use and what you consider its advantages and disadvantages?
As usual with me, I am sure that the conversion will take a while. I am not known for my rapid completion of projects! So I will keep the project status updated here.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Hello, All, I see from the lack of posts that we've all been busy with getting back to our lives as the COVID pandemic seems to gradually be coming under control. I must admit that it feels good to eat in an actual restaurant and meet friends face to face after such a long hiatus! I have been considering doing an CNC conversion to my mini-mill for a while. Though I am fairly happy with my current mill, there are some weaknesses: rack and pinion drive for the Z-axis, a poor gib arrangement that requires frequent adjusting, and no quill, to name a few. So, after some research, I purchased the Grizzly M1116 mini-mill. I am a bit excited, as evidenced by the fact that I changed the cover photo to an image of this mill! It has a Z-axis lead screw drive, tapered gibs, a quill, and built in DROs. You can review the full spec . I purchased the Grizzly stand with it, as well. Unfortunately, a knee injury has me sidelined at the present so it is sitting in my garage, waiting for me to arrange transport to my basement. All I can do is look inside the crate! I know that a number of you have done CNC conversions, and would like to ask what CNC hardware/controller you use and what you consider its advantages and disadvantages? As usual with me, I am sure that the conversion will take a while. I am not known for my rapid completion of projects! So I will keep the project status updated here. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
|
Thanks John, I was going to add DRO to my lathe, Z and X. Now I will add the tailstock.
Ralph?
A very useful "digital tool" to add onto the quill of the lathe tailstock.
readily available DRO as used on Weiss and Grizzly milling heads.
and reasonably priced.
Photo shows that I also added a bracket and threaded rod to the mill spindle to use a a quill stop.
The stop threaded rod is an old lathe cross slide 10 mm x 1 mm LH thread, the nut is one of my old conning tower nuts.
TS just needs a mounting or a horse shoe bracket made to attach to?the side body of the TS?
You could also use an old pair of DRO vernier and modify to suit, chop off the legs and make a bracket to clamp around th equill.
Excellent for drilling and reaming blind holes to "real" specific depths.
The original TS quill does have depth lines engraved but I find useless.
I will be preparing in a few days a post on my mods to the tailstock angular setting, again the as "original supplied" Real Bull? method IMHO very useless and iffy.
there method when the TS is moved swings in an arc if you are lucky. My method allows for side movement at 90 degrees to the bed.
This will be under #lathe mods.
Hope you find of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
The solid tool post got me through for a while on parting
I was recently reminded that loose spindle bearings are the hidden culprit in parting issues. A friend had unending problems getting decent surface finish on his rebuilt Atlas 10. In the end it was spindle bearings not tightened enough. I recently fixed the same issue on my KC1022ML (G0602 look-alike).
Tightened up and my parting problems went away 600+ rpm now with lovely chips. A bonus is better surface finish even 100mm from the cuck on 50mm round stock.
Gerrit
|
A very useful "digital tool" to add onto the quill of the lathe tailstock.
readily available DRO as used on Weiss and Grizzly milling heads.
and reasonably priced.
Photo shows that I also added a bracket and threaded rod to the mill spindle to use a a quill stop.
The stop threaded rod is an old lathe cross slide 10 mm x 1 mm LH thread, the nut is one of my old conning tower nuts.
TS just needs a mounting or a horse shoe bracket made to attach to?the side body of the TS?
You could also use an old pair of DRO vernier and modify to suit, chop off the legs and make a bracket to clamp around th equill.
Excellent for drilling and reaming blind holes to "real" specific depths.
The original TS quill does have depth lines engraved but I find useless.
I will be preparing in a few days a post on my mods to the tailstock angular setting, again the as "original supplied" Real Bull? method IMHO very useless and iffy.
there method when the TS is moved swings in an arc if you are lucky. My method allows for side movement at 90 degrees to the bed.
This will be under #lathe mods.
Hope you find of interest.
--
John
|
Leo
Your?confused direction of rotation issue is not a problem in your post to the forum. A bigger problem would be if you were to rotate the spindle in a clockwise direction with the tool at the rear upside down Ouch. ????
Another reason to part off from the rear is, it is easier to catch the component falling off the bar with your Right hand as you are feeding out the cross slide with your Left hand. The component wants to LIFT up at the very time it breaks off, so less dangerous to grab hold of, than the tool in a "conventional" operator side position with your RH over the top of the tool trying to hold the component being parted?off. IMPT for hobbyist, for safety sake let the component fall or fly off into the "abyss" of the lathe bed, or workshop and go hunting for it LOL, and do not be tempted to try and hold the component unless you know what you are doing. If it's a bushing, then push a pencil in the bore held in your right hand and this will catch the part at the point of breaking off. Some people use a drill held in the TS, that's OK if the part is not too small. Me being an ex production?guy, and looking for parted off components flying into the "abyss" of the unknown , and we were only paid by the quantity of parts presented for inspection at the end of the shift,? time wasting and trying to find losses of components did not put that extra food on the table.? I have worked in more "machine sweatshops" than NIKE shirts could absorb? LOL
Stay well my friend and forum members.
John
On Tue, 13 Apr 2021 at 09:41, Leo Kuipers < leo.abo@...> wrote: Hi John, ? Thanks for your reply, I have messed up the rotation direction. ? Best regards, Leo Kuipers. ? ? ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: dinsdag 13 april 2021 05:29
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed #CSS #LATHES #MODS ? I agree with the need for an accurate parting tool?height set up.? Understand your rear tool post position preference, splash guard side of the spindle, but if the parting tool blade is upside down. then the spindle should be running in a normal direction IE anti clockwise to cut. The saddle needs to be locked down with the?saddle?clamp else it will lift off the?bedway. This option of upside down is popular on capstan and or CNC lathes, as it allows the chips to fall off the tool and not curl up on the top rake and trap. Most CNC lathes with multi indexing tooling turrets run the tooling from the slash guard side of the spindle with tools upside down.? Unfortunately I have only a 7 x mini lathe and do not have sufficient space to secure a tool post splash guard side of the cross slide parting off 30 mm dia bar stock? I might? get away with a max dia of 20 mm, but the removal of the compound slide and the tool post basically bolted to the cross slide has gained rigidity so the normal approach of feeding in from the operator side is OK at this moment. ? On Mon, 12 Apr 2021 at 19:54, Leo Kuipers <leo.abo@...> wrote: Hi Ralph, ? I also did have many problems with parting on my ATLAS 10200 lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass ones, it got the tool in a useful state. The tool on the picture is what I used. ? But also it’s crucial to have the parting tool exactly at center height and the angle between parting tool and the part must be between 0 -1 degree. ? In the old day the parting tool was placed upside down behind the spindle while the lathe was running reverse direction. This mainly was in use the overcome bad bearings of the main axis. (And maybe more) ? Sorry if I once in a while mess up the English language. ? Best regards, Leo ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021 17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed #CSS #LATHES #MODS ? I have smashed a couple of carbide parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being. ? These are a nice tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert and double ended. I use HSS parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves, that?s about?all nowadays. I have used my insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive to initially buy, but a very reliable tool. With a good coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.? Even more easier since I removed my compound slide and made into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly to a riser block that bolts to the cross slide.? Thanks RELS, I have no more "compound slide" blues.? ? I was going to ask about using CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin (plastic) and aluminium nicely but have never successfully parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up on the list. ? On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis wrote: HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!! Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers worldwide would like to surrender their electric motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves" rather than for parting.) It just increases the RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
John
|
Hi John, ? Thanks for your reply, I have messed up the rotation direction. ? Best regards, Leo Kuipers. ? ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: dinsdag 13 april 2021 05:29
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed #CSS #LATHES #MODS ? I agree with the need for an accurate parting tool?height set up.? Understand your rear tool post position preference, splash guard side of the spindle, but if the parting tool blade is upside down. then the spindle should be running in a normal direction IE anti clockwise to cut. The saddle needs to be locked down with the?saddle?clamp else it will lift off the?bedway. This option of upside down is popular on capstan and or CNC lathes, as it allows the chips to fall off the tool and not curl up on the top rake and trap. Most CNC lathes with multi indexing tooling turrets run the tooling from the slash guard side of the spindle with tools upside down.? Unfortunately I have only a 7 x mini lathe and do not have sufficient space to secure a tool post splash guard side of the cross slide parting off 30 mm dia bar stock? I might? get away with a max dia of 20 mm, but the removal of the compound slide and the tool post basically bolted to the cross slide has gained rigidity so the normal approach of feeding in from the operator side is OK at this moment. ? On Mon, 12 Apr 2021 at 19:54, Leo Kuipers <leo.abo@...> wrote: Hi Ralph, ? I also did have many problems with parting on my ATLAS 10200 lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass ones, it got the tool in a useful state. The tool on the picture is what I used. ? But also it’s crucial to have the parting tool exactly at center height and the angle between parting tool and the part must be between 0 -1 degree. ? In the old day the parting tool was placed upside down behind the spindle while the lathe was running reverse direction. This mainly was in use the overcome bad bearings of the main axis. (And maybe more) ? Sorry if I once in a while mess up the English language. ? Best regards, Leo ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021 17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed #CSS #LATHES #MODS ? I have smashed a couple of carbide parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being. ? These are a nice tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert and double ended. I use HSS parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves, that?s about?all nowadays. I have used my insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive to initially buy, but a very reliable tool. With a good coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.? Even more easier since I removed my compound slide and made into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly to a riser block that bolts to the cross slide.? Thanks RELS, I have no more "compound slide" blues.? ? I was going to ask about using CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin (plastic) and aluminium nicely but have never successfully parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up on the list. ? On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis wrote: HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!! Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers worldwide would like to surrender their electric motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves" rather than for parting.) It just increases the RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
|
Leo. Your replies are OK? I agree with the need for an accurate parting tool?height set up.? Understand your rear tool post position preference, splash guard side of the spindle, but if the parting tool blade is upside down. then the spindle should be running in a normal direction IE anti clockwise to cut. The saddle needs to be locked down with the?saddle?clamp else it will lift off the?bedway. This option of upside down is popular on capstan and or CNC lathes, as it allows the chips to fall off the tool and not curl up on the top rake and trap. Most CNC lathes with multi indexing tooling turrets run the tooling from the slash guard side of the spindle with tools upside down.? Unfortunately I have only a 7 x mini lathe and do not have sufficient space to secure a tool post splash guard side of the cross slide parting off 30 mm dia bar stock? I might? get away with a max dia of 20 mm, but the removal of the compound slide and the tool post basically bolted to the cross slide has gained rigidity so the normal approach of feeding in from the operator side is OK at this moment.
John Lindo
On Mon, 12 Apr 2021 at 19:54, Leo Kuipers < leo.abo@...> wrote: Hi Ralph, ? I also did have many problems with parting on my ATLAS 10200 lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass ones, it got the tool in a useful state. The tool on the picture is what I used. ? But also it’s crucial to have the parting tool exactly at center height and the angle between parting tool and the part must be between 0 -1 degree. ? In the old day the parting tool was placed upside down behind the spindle while the lathe was running reverse direction. This mainly was in use the overcome bad bearings of the main axis. (And maybe more) ? Sorry if I once in a while mess up the English language. ? Best regards, Leo ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021 17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed #CSS #LATHES #MODS ? I have smashed a couple of carbide parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being. ? These are a nice tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert and double ended. I use HSS parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves, that?s about?all nowadays. I have used my insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive to initially buy, but a very reliable tool. With a good coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.? Even more easier since I removed my compound slide and made into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly to a riser block that bolts to the cross slide.? Thanks RELS, I have no more "compound slide" blues.? ? I was going to ask about using CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin (plastic) and aluminium nicely but have never successfully parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up on the list. ? On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis wrote: HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!! Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers worldwide would like to surrender their electric motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves" rather than for parting.) It just increases the RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
|
John Lindo has done it, as well.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Monday, April 12, 2021, 06:29:56 PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? there's a guy , I think WInky's workshop & he made
some kind of base that he can put a support on that supports the
tool to make it much more ridged
??? ??? animal
On 4/12/2021 12:31 PM, Bruce J wrote:
I have seen many many people reference either a rear-mounted
cutoff tool, or flipping the cutoff tool upside down and running
the lathe in reverse; since your lathe doesn’t run in reverse
(iirc), you’ll want to look into a rear-mounted one. ?IN Ted
Hansen’s Minilathe book from Home Shop Machinist, he has plans and
description on building a rear-mounted on for a mini-lathe that
you may be able to modify to work.
But generally, as someone else mentioned, more
rigidity is needed.?
Thanks everyone for the replies,
and yes Leo you are doing great.
As I said I was able to part Delrin and
aluminium, parting the aluminium looked like a YouTube
video of how to part.
It was perfect. But with steel I have
problems but I will continue trying and if I really
have to part something I do have a which is a fantastic tool.
Ralph
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021
at 1:56 PM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? your doing fine Leo
??? ??? animal
On 4/12/2021 10:54 AM, Leo Kuipers
wrote:
Hi Ralph,
?
I also did have many
problems with parting on my ATLAS 10200
lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide
guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass
ones, it got the tool in a useful state.
The tool on the
picture is what I used. ?
But also it’s crucial
to have the parting tool exactly at center
height and the angle between parting tool
and the part must be between 0 -1 degree.
?
In the old day the
parting tool was placed upside down behind
the spindle while the lathe was running
reverse direction. This mainly was in use
the overcome bad bearings of the main axis.
(And maybe more)
?
Sorry if I once in a
while mess up the English language.
?
Best regards,
Leo
?
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Ralph
Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021
17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re:
[digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed
#CSS #LATHES #MODS
?
I have smashed a couple
of carbide parting tools, so I stick with
HSS for the time being.
?
These are a nice tool to
use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide
insert and double ended.
I use HSS parting tools
thinned down for "o" ring grooves,
that?s about?all nowadays.
I have used my insert
parting tool for over 3 1/2 years.
Expensive to initially buy, but a
very reliable tool.
With a good coolant flow,
mainly to wash the chips out of the
groove, a 2" dia steel parting off
is a dream.?
Even more easier since I
removed my compound slide and made
into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool
post?is fixed directly
to a riser block that bolts
to the cross slide.?
Thanks RELS, I have no more
"compound slide" blues.?
?
I was going to
ask about using CSS while parting?
So far I can part Delrin (plastic)
and aluminium nicely
but have never
successfully parted steel. So if
CSS would help I'll move it up on
the list.
?
On Mon, Apr 12,
2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis
wrote:
HOW FOR
HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE
MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS
IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!!
Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in
Germany some years ago, I watch an
artisan make wooded chess pieces
on a lathe powered by a sapling.
The tree was bent over and rope
ran from the tree around the
spindle multiple times, and was
the anchored to a foot pedal.
Pressing on the foot pedal would
turn the spindle and the artisan
would take cuts, and then withdraw
his tool when the pedal was
released and the spindle spun in
reverse. This was certainly a
skilled individual. But I doubt
that woodworkers worldwide would
like to surrender their electric
motors and plant saplings in their
shops!
The CSS is just one more
tool.?(Although I view CSS more as
a tool for creating larger
diameter faced surfaces without
"vinyl record grooves" rather than
for parting.) It just increases
the RPM to keep surface speed
constant as the tool is advanced
in the X-axis. It does not require
that the lathe be otherwise
automated. Like all such tools, it
does NOT replace skill! Good
point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S
LAW: It works better if you
plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It
works even better if you
turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe,
4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless
DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12
mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt
laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D printer
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14"
Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC
motors and a non working 3D printer
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B.
Banzai, PhD
|
??? ??? there's a guy , I think WInky's workshop & he made
some kind of base that he can put a support on that supports the
tool to make it much more ridged
??? ??? animal
On 4/12/2021 12:31 PM, Bruce J wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have seen many many people reference either a rear-mounted
cutoff tool, or flipping the cutoff tool upside down and running
the lathe in reverse; since your lathe doesn’t run in reverse
(iirc), you’ll want to look into a rear-mounted one. ?IN Ted
Hansen’s Minilathe book from Home Shop Machinist, he has plans and
description on building a rear-mounted on for a mini-lathe that
you may be able to modify to work.
But generally, as someone else mentioned, more
rigidity is needed.?
Thanks everyone for the replies,
and yes Leo you are doing great.
As I said I was able to part Delrin and
aluminium, parting the aluminium looked like a YouTube
video of how to part.
It was perfect. But with steel I have
problems but I will continue trying and if I really
have to part something I do have a which is a fantastic tool.
Ralph
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021
at 1:56 PM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? your doing fine Leo
??? ??? animal
On 4/12/2021 10:54 AM, Leo Kuipers
wrote:
Hi Ralph,
?
I also did have many
problems with parting on my ATLAS 10200
lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide
guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass
ones, it got the tool in a useful state.
The tool on the
picture is what I used. ?
But also it’s crucial
to have the parting tool exactly at center
height and the angle between parting tool
and the part must be between 0 -1 degree.
?
In the old day the
parting tool was placed upside down behind
the spindle while the lathe was running
reverse direction. This mainly was in use
the overcome bad bearings of the main axis.
(And maybe more)
?
Sorry if I once in a
while mess up the English language.
?
Best regards,
Leo
?
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Ralph
Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021
17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re:
[digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed
#CSS #LATHES #MODS
?
I have smashed a couple
of carbide parting tools, so I stick with
HSS for the time being.
?
These are a nice tool to
use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide
insert and double ended.
I use HSS parting tools
thinned down for "o" ring grooves,
that?s about?all nowadays.
I have used my insert
parting tool for over 3 1/2 years.
Expensive to initially buy, but a
very reliable tool.
With a good coolant flow,
mainly to wash the chips out of the
groove, a 2" dia steel parting off
is a dream.?
Even more easier since I
removed my compound slide and made
into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool
post?is fixed directly
to a riser block that bolts
to the cross slide.?
Thanks RELS, I have no more
"compound slide" blues.?
?
I was going to
ask about using CSS while parting?
So far I can part Delrin (plastic)
and aluminium nicely
but have never
successfully parted steel. So if
CSS would help I'll move it up on
the list.
?
On Mon, Apr 12,
2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis
wrote:
HOW FOR
HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE
MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS
IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!!
Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in
Germany some years ago, I watch an
artisan make wooded chess pieces
on a lathe powered by a sapling.
The tree was bent over and rope
ran from the tree around the
spindle multiple times, and was
the anchored to a foot pedal.
Pressing on the foot pedal would
turn the spindle and the artisan
would take cuts, and then withdraw
his tool when the pedal was
released and the spindle spun in
reverse. This was certainly a
skilled individual. But I doubt
that woodworkers worldwide would
like to surrender their electric
motors and plant saplings in their
shops!
The CSS is just one more
tool.?(Although I view CSS more as
a tool for creating larger
diameter faced surfaces without
"vinyl record grooves" rather than
for parting.) It just increases
the RPM to keep surface speed
constant as the tool is advanced
in the X-axis. It does not require
that the lathe be otherwise
automated. Like all such tools, it
does NOT replace skill! Good
point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S
LAW: It works better if you
plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It
works even better if you
turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe,
4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless
DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12
mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt
laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D printer
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14"
Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC
motors and a non working 3D printer
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B.
Banzai, PhD
|
I have seen many many people reference either a rear-mounted cutoff tool, or flipping the cutoff tool upside down and running the lathe in reverse; since your lathe doesn’t run in reverse (iirc), you’ll want to look into a rear-mounted one. ?IN Ted Hansen’s Minilathe book from Home Shop Machinist, he has plans and description on building a rear-mounted on for a mini-lathe that you may be able to modify to work.
But generally, as someone else mentioned, more rigidity is needed.?
Thanks everyone for the replies, and yes Leo you are doing great.
As I said I was able to part Delrin and aluminium, parting the aluminium looked like a YouTube video of how to part. It was perfect. But with steel I have problems but I will continue trying and if I really have to part something I do have a which is a fantastic tool.
Ralph On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 1:56 PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? your doing fine Leo
??? ??? animal
On 4/12/2021 10:54 AM, Leo Kuipers
wrote:
Hi
Ralph, ? I also did have many problems with parting on
my ATLAS 10200 lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide
guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass ones, it got
the tool in a useful state. The tool on the picture is what I used. ? But also it’s crucial to have the parting tool
exactly at center height and the angle between parting tool
and the part must be between 0 -1 degree. ? In the old day the parting tool was placed
upside down behind the spindle while the lathe was running
reverse direction. This mainly was in use the overcome bad
bearings of the main axis. (And maybe more) ? Sorry if I once in a while mess up the English
language. ? Best regards, Leo ? From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph
Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021 17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed
#CSS #LATHES #MODS ?
I have smashed a couple of carbide
parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being.
?
These are a nice
tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert
and double ended.
I use HSS
parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves,
that?s about?all nowadays.
I have used my
insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive
to initially buy, but a very reliable tool.
With a good
coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the
groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.?
Even more easier
since I removed my compound slide and made into a
boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly
to a riser block
that bolts to the cross slide.?
Thanks RELS, I
have no more "compound slide" blues.?
?
I was going to ask about using
CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin
(plastic) and aluminium nicely
but have never successfully
parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up
on the list.
?
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50
AM, Robert Francis wrote: HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS<
HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A
LATHE????? Answer SKILL!! Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years
ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces
on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent
over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle
multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot
pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the
spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then
withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and
the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a
skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers
worldwide would like to surrender their electric
motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view
CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter
faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves"
rather than for parting.) It just increases the
RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is
advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that
the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such
tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S
LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you
turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe,
14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless
DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14"
Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors
and a non working 3D printer
-- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
Thanks everyone for the replies, and yes Leo you are doing great.
As I said I was able to part Delrin and aluminium, parting the aluminium looked like a YouTube video of how to part. It was perfect. But with steel I have problems but I will continue trying and if I really have to part something I do have a which is a fantastic tool.
Ralph
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 1:56 PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? your doing fine Leo
??? ??? animal
On 4/12/2021 10:54 AM, Leo Kuipers
wrote:
Hi
Ralph,
?
I also did have many problems with parting on
my ATLAS 10200 lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide
guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass ones, it got
the tool in a useful state.
The tool on the picture is what I used. ?
But also it’s crucial to have the parting tool
exactly at center height and the angle between parting tool
and the part must be between 0 -1 degree.
?
In the old day the parting tool was placed
upside down behind the spindle while the lathe was running
reverse direction. This mainly was in use the overcome bad
bearings of the main axis. (And maybe more)
?
Sorry if I once in a while mess up the English
language.
?
Best regards,
Leo
?
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph
Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021 17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed
#CSS #LATHES #MODS
?
I have smashed a couple of carbide
parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being.
?
These are a nice
tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert
and double ended.
I use HSS
parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves,
that?s about?all nowadays.
I have used my
insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive
to initially buy, but a very reliable tool.
With a good
coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the
groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.?
Even more easier
since I removed my compound slide and made into a
boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly
to a riser block
that bolts to the cross slide.?
Thanks RELS, I
have no more "compound slide" blues.?
?
I was going to ask about using
CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin
(plastic) and aluminium nicely
but have never successfully
parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up
on the list.
?
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50
AM, Robert Francis wrote:
HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS<
HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A
LATHE????? Answer SKILL!!
Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years
ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces
on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent
over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle
multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot
pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the
spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then
withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and
the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a
skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers
worldwide would like to surrender their electric
motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view
CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter
faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves"
rather than for parting.) It just increases the
RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is
advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that
the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such
tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S
LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you
turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe,
14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless
DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14"
Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors
and a non working 3D printer
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
??? ??? your doing fine Leo
??? ??? animal
On 4/12/2021 10:54 AM, Leo Kuipers
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi
Ralph,
?
I also did have many problems with parting on
my ATLAS 10200 lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide
guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass ones, it got
the tool in a useful state.
The tool on the picture is what I used. ?
But also it’s crucial to have the parting tool
exactly at center height and the angle between parting tool
and the part must be between 0 -1 degree.
?
In the old day the parting tool was placed
upside down behind the spindle while the lathe was running
reverse direction. This mainly was in use the overcome bad
bearings of the main axis. (And maybe more)
?
Sorry if I once in a while mess up the English
language.
?
Best regards,
Leo
?
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph
Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021 17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed
#CSS #LATHES #MODS
?
I have smashed a couple of carbide
parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being.
?
These are a nice
tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert
and double ended.
I use HSS
parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves,
that?s about?all nowadays.
I have used my
insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive
to initially buy, but a very reliable tool.
With a good
coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the
groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.?
Even more easier
since I removed my compound slide and made into a
boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly
to a riser block
that bolts to the cross slide.?
Thanks RELS, I
have no more "compound slide" blues.?
?
I was going to ask about using
CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin
(plastic) and aluminium nicely
but have never successfully
parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up
on the list.
?
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50
AM, Robert Francis wrote:
HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS<
HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A
LATHE????? Answer SKILL!!
Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years
ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces
on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent
over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle
multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot
pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the
spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then
withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and
the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a
skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers
worldwide would like to surrender their electric
motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view
CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter
faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves"
rather than for parting.) It just increases the
RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is
advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that
the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such
tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S
LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you
turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe,
14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless
DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14"
Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors
and a non working 3D printer
|
Hi Ralph, ? I also did have many problems with parting on my ATLAS 10200 lathe, after repairing a warped cross slide guiding, replacing the plastic gibs by brass ones, it got the tool in a useful state. The tool on the picture is what I used. ? But also it’s crucial to have the parting tool exactly at center height and the angle between parting tool and the part must be between 0 -1 degree. ? In the old day the parting tool was placed upside down behind the spindle while the lathe was running reverse direction. This mainly was in use the overcome bad bearings of the main axis. (And maybe more) ? Sorry if I once in a while mess up the English language. ? Best regards, Leo ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: maandag 12 april 2021 17:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Constant Surface Speed #CSS #LATHES #MODS ? I have smashed a couple of carbide parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being. ? These are a nice tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert and double ended. I use HSS parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves, that?s about?all nowadays. I have used my insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive to initially buy, but a very reliable tool. With a good coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.? Even more easier since I removed my compound slide and made into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly to a riser block that bolts to the cross slide.? Thanks RELS, I have no more "compound slide" blues.? ? I was going to ask about using CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin (plastic) and aluminium nicely but have never successfully parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up on the list. ? On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis wrote: HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!! Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers worldwide would like to surrender their electric motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves" rather than for parting.) It just increases the RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
You might want to tighten up the gibbs on the compound and cross-slide, and for the saddle. Or make a monolithic block like John L uses. Rigidity is the very first thing you want, and you want as much as you can get! While still being able to crank things around, anyway. :)
If you're shattering carbide, things are moving that aren't supposed to move.
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Monday, April 12, 2021, 10:23:46 AM CDT, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
I have smashed a couple of carbide parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being.
Ralph
Parting off. These are a nice tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert and double ended.
I use HSS parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves, that?s about?all nowadays.
I have used my insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive to initially buy, but a very reliable tool. With a good coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.? Even more easier since I removed my compound slide and made into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly to a riser block that bolts to the cross slide.? Thanks RELS, I have no more "compound slide" blues.?
John
I was going to ask about using CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin (plastic) and aluminium nicely but have never successfully parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up on the list.
Ralph
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis wrote:
HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!!
Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers worldwide would like to surrender their electric motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves" rather than for parting.) It just increases the RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
I have smashed a couple of carbide parting tools, so I stick with HSS for the time being.
Ralph
Parting off. These are a nice tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert and double ended.
I use HSS parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves, that?s about?all nowadays.
I have used my insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive to initially buy, but a very reliable tool. With a good coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.? Even more easier since I removed my compound slide and made into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly to a riser block that bolts to the cross slide.? Thanks RELS, I have no more "compound slide" blues.?
John
I was going to ask about using CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin (plastic) and aluminium nicely but have never successfully parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up on the list.
Ralph
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis wrote:
HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!!
Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers worldwide would like to surrender their electric motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves" rather than for parting.) It just increases the RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Parting off. These are a nice tool to use, 2 bites of the?cherry?carbide insert and double ended.
I use HSS parting tools thinned down for "o" ring grooves, that?s about?all nowadays.
I have used my insert parting tool for over 3 1/2 years. Expensive to initially buy, but a very reliable tool. With a good coolant flow, mainly to wash the chips out of the groove, a 2" dia steel parting off is a dream.? Even more easier since I removed my compound slide and made into a boat anchor. LOL. my tool post?is fixed directly to a riser block that bolts to the cross slide.? Thanks RELS, I have no more "compound slide" blues.?
John
I was going to ask about using CSS while parting? So far I can part Delrin (plastic) and aluminium nicely but have never successfully parted steel. So if CSS would help I'll move it up on the list.
Ralph
On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 08:50 AM, Robert Francis wrote:
HOW FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS< HAVE MACHINISTS MANAGED TO PART ITEMS IN A LATHE????? Answer SKILL!!
Robert,
Absolutely true!
When at a Renaissance Fair in Germany some years ago, I watch an artisan make wooded chess pieces on a lathe powered by a sapling. The tree was bent over and rope ran from the tree around the spindle multiple times, and was the anchored to a foot pedal. Pressing on the foot pedal would turn the spindle and the artisan would take cuts, and then withdraw his tool when the pedal was released and the spindle spun in reverse. This was certainly a skilled individual. But I doubt that woodworkers worldwide would like to surrender their electric motors and plant saplings in their shops!
The CSS is just one more tool.?(Although I view CSS more as a tool for creating larger diameter faced surfaces without "vinyl record grooves" rather than for parting.) It just increases the RPM to keep surface speed constant as the tool is advanced in the X-axis. It does not require that the lathe be otherwise automated. Like all such tools, it does NOT replace skill! Good point!
?
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.
EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
|
John Lindo
Bill in OKC too
