Thanks for the reply, I’ll make the suggested change and post what I find this weekend.?

Jay

On Tue, May 7, 2024 at 06:56 PM, Brian Matson wrote:

So, being an old fart in the industry...

Me more than you!..Haha!!!
I have my crack team looking into it...this is a head-scratcher!!

Hello All,

Maybe someone can shed some light on this one!

So, being an old fart in the industry, I may have dealt with cut wires or drywall screw through a wire just a couple of times before.
Naturally, I have solutions for this.? Step 1 ... determine just how many wires are good on the 4-conductor speaker wire.
Excellent, we have 3 good conductors.? So, there are 2 options.
1. Just connect the speakers in parallel, set the zone to mono, and everything is happy at ~4 Ohms.
2. Use a common ground because all of the negatives are typically commonly grounded on a multi-channel amp or receiver.? Now we still get stereo!

Because I ran into this exact scenario today, I decided to test the 8ZSA to verify the chassis ground situation.
I broke out the old multimeter, connected one terminal to the chassis ground, and tested all negative connections on the 8ZSA.
All RCA connections have the sleeve grounded as per usual.
Balanced phoenix connectors are grounded as well.
Left speaker?? Yup ... it's negative is showing a short with the chassis ground.
Surely the right speaker is grounded similarly, correct?? No, it is not.
For some reason, the right positive terminal is connected to the chassis ground.

In my almost 30 years I have never seen anything like this.

Just to make sure I wasn't losing my mind; I called some other members of our team on jobs in different stages of completion.
Every single 8ZSA that was checked has the right positive speaker terminals connected to chassis ground.

Can anyone think of a reason that this would be the case?
Is there some new "Bob Carver" form of amplification that has 1 speaker grounded to the negative terminal and the other grounded to the positive?
It would seem to me like the right speakers would be out of phase.

I have not had the spare time to place 2 speakers face to face, play a specific frequency from my tone generator, and listen for the cancelation.

True Blue just kept asking me if there was an actual problem.
Umm ... it depends if every right speaker on every 8ZSA is out of phase!

Please help!
Brian

Hello,

Do you have any feedback on using RTSP streaming on an Xpanel/TSW interface of an AVER camera (550, 520, PTC310...)?

According to the manufacturer's specifications, the RTSP stream is H264. However, I am unable to display the video stream (embedded video) on a TSW/TS/XPANEL.

For your information, the stream is accessible from VLC or PotPlayer, "Open on page flip" is also activated in VTPRO, and I have also tried using "MJPEG VIEWER" without success.

Thank you for your help.

I actually spent some time on this Mitsubishi HVAC this evening.? I got an ESP32 Arduino to talk to it.? It acted as a UDP Server, and upon UDPSending it text like "ON" or "HEAT" or "72" (a temperature in °F), the Arduino sent the IR commands and the HVAC unit responded.

The specific Arduino I used was the "ATOMS3" because it's $8 on DigiKey, looks presentable, has WiFi, and an IR emitter built-in.? But going this route is probably not worth anyone's while unless you're either A) developing a driver for lots of people to benefit from, or B) really care that the client maintains controls over the louvers, the direction the air blows, the fan speed, enough to take the time to implement all the buttons.? But now that I know I can control my own unit (which I never really thought much of until today), I bet I'll have it on my own system soon.

I'd summarize my conclusions like this:? If your client is okay with a single permanent setting for the louvers etc. and is OK with Crestron having basic control (like off, heat, and cool, for all of the possible temperatures), then just learning IR presets from the remote as "commands" into Crestron to basically create an IR preset matching every possible combination of heat/cool x each temperature is very likely going to work great.? (it goes from 60°F to 88°F so that's 29 possible settings... therefore a max of 29 heat commands, 29 cool commands, and an "off" command... that's for fahrenheit... if you're celsius, it's even easier, only 16 possible temp settings from 16 to 31.).

Borg Hive Mind:

Has anyone successfully accessed an RTSP stream from behind the control subnet thru the Network Port of a 3 and 4 series processor?

Please weigh in.

MM

Is this the one that has the giant IR remote with an LCD screen and 30 buttons under a cover?

If it's expandable via BACnet, that probably works great -- I'm more familiar with the IR side and will share what I know.

The IR remote has a vast number of options on it -- and unlike most IR remotes for TV's etc. (that transmit single button presses at a time), this IR remote blasts a relatively large (144 bit) packet that contains all of the configured options on the device, all at once, just about every time you press any key.? I own one of these Mitsubishi units.? You are never sending individual keypresses to the unit.

You might be able to learn yourself an IR driver that recalls a series of pre-saved configurations (such as one for being "on" at each discrete degree setting, along with an "off" and a "fan only") and blast them back out to follow the setting of the thermostat.

Of course, each learned IR message is going to capture a snapshot of the whole configuration at the time (such as the mode, the direction of the vanes, the fan speed, etc) and maybe that's okay and hits the spot all in one day.? In fact, in retrospect, it's probably cleaner than IR "button presses" -- you're literally configuring the whole device in a single act according to your wishes -- it either all works, or it doesn't.

Once for a different mini split A/C unit (I believe it was a Lennox) I made an Arduino sketch that took serial RS232 input and built the appropriate IR packet and sent it onward to the air conditioner.? It worked exactly as expected and I had full control over all the options, and then I put the original remote in a drawer and never had to use it again.? Same concept, it had a 63 bit packet instead of 144.? The Arduino kept track of the last setting sent in its own nonvolatile memory, so all options could be repeated in the full packet, and so each minor adjustment (such as a changed temperature) kept all of the other settings intact.

The IR protocol for the Mitsubishi available is online, I notice that somebody else did the exact same thing I did with an Arduino for the Mitsubishi unit, and published their code.
https://www.analysir.com/blog/2015/01/06/reverse-engineering-mitsubishi-ac-infrared-protocol/

Then again there's also BACnet, and also the possibility that someone has already delivered a production quality Crestron driver that I don't know about.

As MGmail says, it depends on what the form-factor is.
Either way, you should look at . they have integration devices for Mitsu and other Mini-Split systems. I only deal with Custom/SMW systems, but I'm sure that they are working in CH as well...

If this is an actual "standard Mini-Split" with a wall/ceiling mount head unit (the standard old-school, ugly wall unit type), CoolAuto will work without any additional Mitsu stuff.
If it is a "Ducted Mini-Split" where you have 'traditional' air ducts, etc. this format will require a temp sensor, etc.
>>> I just resolved an issue with a Mitsu Ducted unit and the best solution was to use one of Mitsu's TStats with thier remote temp sensor, then we used the CoolAuto unit to integrate with Crestron...
>>> There is also a way to use a 'Standard' TStat like a CHV or Horizon unit with the ducted style, but you'll need an appropriate Mitsu interface module (You'll have to research that one...)

What is the best way (if any) to control a Mitsubishi Mini Split HVAC system using Crestron Home OS4? The house is being renovated and there are no tstats in place yet. Can we use any of the Crestron Tstats? Thanks in advance.

开云体育

Hi Jay,

To the best of my knowledge the Bond bridge integration works fine but I don't personally use it on a daily basis so, without testing, I don't know if something has popped up.?

I'm traveling for the next few weeks so it will be a little while until I can look at this.? However, it would help if you would change the startup_debug_msg_output parameter on the Bond Comm Manager module to "Console", recompile, re-upload, and do some additional testing to reproduce the problem while SimplDebugger is running.? You may also need to have a text console window open as SimplDebugger has a habit of dropping message strings from S# code.? Please send the debug log and a copy of what is displayed in text console and I'll see what I can figure out.

Thanks

Jay

Hello everyone,
Has anyone controlled a Magewell USB Fusion?
I?m fighting with it and? i?m not sure how to connect to it be able to make input changes.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank in advance.

The fact that you can just drop in an Autonomics hardware definition just like a touch panel tells me everything. I am not joking when I say for six months the Sonos did not work for more than 3 days in a row.

Jay,

Have you experienced any problems with your Bond integration??

My Bond bridge pro updated FW to 4.4.7.1 and now I get this message:

06:47:07 - 05-06-2024 ? ?Bond-Get_Devices_List - Error Getting List of Devices: System.Net.Sockets.SocketException: A connection attempt failed because the connected party did not properly respond after a period of time, or established connection failed because connected host has ? ?[Bond_Pro]Communications_Err_Msg$

I got similar messages on Bond enabled Ceiling Fans FW ver 3.5, but I'd mapped those to the bridge as a work around.

I have the debugger feedback after an initialize for the Pro I can send separately if desired since it won't let me attach an image here.

Thanks
Jay

The USB-C cable usually isn't directional but the cable and connector supports a whole lot of "features" that appear to be getting in the way.? I have some USB-C serial devices that won't work on Mac with any USB-C-to-USB-C cable, but will work just fine if you go from USB-C to USB-A and back to USB-C.

Try one of these.? This unambiguously makes the Mac to be nothing more than USB 3.1 host.? ?Then use a normal USB-A 3.1 cable.? These are a staple in my computer bag.? I buy half a dozen at a time when I notice I start losing them.



Mike

I am trying to connect a external USB capture card to a Mac with only USB C ports on the rear.? The card is powered by the USB port.? The device came with a straight USB cable but I had 2 USB to C cables here.? The device will not power up with a USB C to USB cable from the Mac but will power up with a straight USB cable from my laptop or desktop.? Thought I might have dead ports on the back of the Mac. I grabbed a type C charging cable from a wall wart.? Plugged it into the Mac and my iphone and it charges.? So I know there is power coming out of the Mac.
I have tested both.? I have tested both cables to provide power and data in the direction of USB to C but when I try plugging in the same cables C end into a wall wart and plug it into a straight USB device, it won't power up.? This type of cable must be directional.? Am I missing something here?? would one if those little block adapter on the end of a straight USB cables work??