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Not sure if I can list this here but due to some medical problems, I have to sell my 1980 Commutacar. I don’t know if anyone on the group lives nearby or is interested. Currently not running. Missing motor. Still has original contactors. Body is in pretty good shape, interior is very nice. Batteries were all purchased in 2918 but I’m not sure of their condition now. Would be great to put a new motor and electronic speed control in! 610-850-4673 with offers? Thanks!

OK, now that that one is sold, I also have to give up on my retirement plans to restore mine (due to health). It has plastic body damage (no collisions, just carlessness), but if you have seen any of my other EV conversions, I kinda like the fun of fixing with "patches' which become part of the aesthetic of the DIY project. I was going to name it "patches" after all the aluminum patches were in pace. Simple aluminum flashing from Home Depot Just went out on a cold dreary day and took a photo. Will eventually take more when weather clears up. http://aprs.org/CITI-car0110x.jpg Location Glen Burnie MD. I bought new tires and wheels the week I pushed it back behind the garage about a decade ago. So after bushwacking, it should roll out. It is a 48v unit with 36v motor and original contactors. Price maybe $500 OBO... Bob WB4APR

My PlayList of over 90 videos found on YouTube about the CitiCar https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTL0vBoAIqpHG-p4FES_FFDzMRAzF0NR-

I am trying to figure out exactly what my car is. The s/n is 1117 and everything on the car seems to be original. The motor is a 3.5hp, 36V but there are SV-48 stickers on the car. Per Wikipedia, "Prior to car #1501, CitiCars left the factory as 36 volt models; most had a 2.5 hp Baldor motor, but a few had the 3.5 hp GE motor." Looks like they made a 36V as well as a 48V, 3.5hp motor? Is mine a SV-36?

DECODING CITICAR/COMMUTACAR VIN NUMBERS The VIN number can be viewed through the windshield on the drivers side of the car. - - = = < < C I T I C A R > > = = - - the VIN consists of 8 to 10 digits in the format: "AABCCDDDDE" or "ABCCDDDD" AA - This is the month of manufacture. 1 or 01 = January 2 or 02 = February 3 or 03 = March 4 or 04 = April 5 or 05 = May 6 or 06 = June 7 or 07 = July 8 or 08 = August 9 or 09 = September 10 = October 11 = November 12 = December B - This is the year of manufacture. This year may be different than the title year. 1 = 1971 2 = 1972 3 = 1973 4 = 1974 5 = 1975 6 = 1976 7 = 1977 8 = 1978 9 = 1979 CC - This is always "SR" the Government designation for Sebring Vanguard DDDD - This is the unique serial number of the car starting with 1001 and incrementing by 1 for each car built. E - Model Change (a few cars had the same serial number - this was the tie braker) -SAMPLE VIN- 84SR1358 || | | | -|-|--|--|--- 8 ........ August ............ Manufactured in August --|--|--|--- 4 ........ 1974 .............. Manufactured in 1974 ---|--|--- SR ....... Sebring Vanguard .. Maufactured by Sebring Vanguard ---|--- 1358 ..... 1358 .............. Serial number 1358 ---- _ ........ (missing) ......... Build started August 1974 by Sebring Vanguard serial # 1358 <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> - - = = < < C O M U T A C A R > > = = - - the VIN consists of 17 digits in the format: "ABBCCCCCDEFGGGGGG" A - The manufacturer county code. 1 = North America BB - the government assigned code for Commuter Vehicles, Inc. 11 = Commuter Vehicles, Inc. CCCC - Equipment code. Comutacar always used 1B1C2 D - Check Digit. It is calculated based on the other numbers. E - Model Year. A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 F - Manufacturing Plant. Always "S" GGGGGG - Serial Number -SAMPLE VIN- 1111B1C21AS000712 | | |||| | --|----||||-----|--- 1 ........ Manufactured in North America -----||||-----|--- 11 ....... Manufactured by Commuter Vehicles, Inc -|||-----|--- 1B1C2 .... (Always the same code) -||-----|--- 1 ........ (Check Digit - no useful information for owner) -|-----|--- A ........ 1980 Model Year ------|--- S ........ Manufacturing Plant (always an "S") ---- 000712 ... Serial Number

Might want to check out this car just for reference. Really cool one near me but don't have that much $ to invest: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3356765234360749/

Hi Roy and all, Lead batteries should be charged to 2.5vdc/cell and after charging, sitting for a while settle to 2.2vdc/cell. Older long discharged batteries should be taken to 2.5vdc/ cell for an hour, discharged to 2vdc/cell and recharged to 2.5vdc/cell and cycled 2 more times to wake them back up. 100% discharged is about 1.8vdc/cell These will boil and they need to in order to equalize. Then set them to 2.3vdc/cell for a day or 2. Then separate them and test them for voltage after letting them set, then for amps. Write down each and if not close, charge, cycle again whichever one/s are over 10% lower and see if they come back. As a 48vdc pack should charge to 60vdc, an equalizing charge and about 54vdc regular charging and equalize once every 5 charges. Another way is charge in series to 60vdc and check voltages and charge up any low ones to 2.5vdc/cell. Discharge the string and recharge, repeating charging the low ones until after a day they are all 2.2vdc/cell. Then cycle them a few times and they'll be as good as they will be. After sitting a while they stabilize so need to be woken up. Use the EV or a oven element in water, hotplate, other load and remember don't turn on or off any AC switch as they won't survive DC switching, especially turning them off. disconnect at the battery. For 8vdc batteries a 12vdc headlight using both elements works good though only 8 amps or so. It's some work but will pay off by staying equal while driving if they are still good. If you have to buy a new set think about buying used LG cell lithium like Volt EV modules as barely more expensive now and a lot lighter and they don't need a BMS. Or 6vdc as last longer than 8vdc and cost less. 8vdc batteries really are not up to the heavy use a Ccar has. It'll work but not as well or long. Remember these are marked up 60% of list so lots of bargaining room. My favorite is East Penn/Deka as best quality for the price. Recycling them you can get about $18 each so check recyclers for price vs what the battery shop will give you. If buying new insist on getting them from the same pallet/batch with matching batch numbers so they equalize better, will live longer, give no trouble. This is straight from the person that designed most Trojan and USBattery brands that schooled me and my 40 yrs lead experience, 27 in EVs. Though now I run Volt lithium for 2.5 yrs now without a BMS as most do without a problem and since I buy in bulk to sell, cheaper.. Jerry Dycus

I don't understand his reference to a BMS and his charger. Is the BMS built into the battery pack in the VOlt? I don't see any multi-cell BMS cable to the charger? Bob

Have 1980...got six batteries..8v got charged to 7.5v+ ea My car was previously owned by a Boston area tech college. Dash is apart ...charger is out ....took batteries out to charge individually Car rolls and stops...has 4200 miles on it bought Delta charger Got the manuals and been to youtube.....familiar with combustion vehicles....this golf cart has me perplexed...wondered if any of you out there have the time and patience spoon feed me to the promised land....... to speed up the process can call or text Thank You Roy in MA 01702 iphone 508 472 4207

There’s also this CitiCar in East Haven, CT, if you’re on the RH side of the country. https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2364277680532630 Some assembly required, but new motor from D&D, controller, wheels and tires, etc. Tom On Jul 5, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Clarke2 via groups.io <clarke2@...> wrote: Just an interested lurker here. I found this listing on Facebook for a 1981 CVI Comuta-car for sale here in Tucson. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/946958122408589/ Dan

Just an interested lurker here. I found this listing on Facebook for a 1981 CVI Comuta-car for sale here in Tucson. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/946958122408589/ Dan

I have added the C-Car Roster by State file in 13 [ .jpg] as a Photo Album. This has updates as of 7/1/2020. If you see anything that needs to be corrected please let me know. Use the C-Car Code to identify which C-Car you are referring to. All Red Lined Data [including serial numbers] has been removed from this file. Peter Crisitello Crisitel@...

The following photos have been uploaded to the C-Car Roster By State album of the [email protected] group. US Auto Production figures 1974-76.jpg By: Peter Crisitello <crisitel@...>

I am attempting to update and correct my C-Car Master File. I currently have 369 EV's listed. However some of the information has not been updated in years. This includes Citi & Comuta Car's as well as Citi & Postal Van's and any Tropica [Xebra] EV's as well. I have a lot of For Sale on eBay cars that I am sure have been sold by now. Some go back to 2012!?Others i know have changed hands but do not have the specifics. To update correctly I will use the following information you send me to check if I have your car already on file or if it is new. I will send you back what information I have on your car if it is already in my file. and you can correct or confirm if it is correct. Serial numbers and any information you don't want to be available to others, I red Line and it is left off any printout. If you can,.Send me your name, your C-Car serial number, its year, and its color. If you want to, you can include a picture. You can email me at crisitel[at]oit.rutgers.edu (replace the [at] with @) or use FaceBook Messenger. At the top of the message or subject line use C-Car Roster Update. You can also include the condition as coded below if you like. Condition Coding · RFS - Restored for show only. · DD1 - Daily Driver, · DD2 - Drivable but occasional use only. · PCO - Parts Car Only · PR1 - Project just starting · PRC - Project near completion · STO - in storage condition undetermined. · SD1 - Static Display running condition · SD2 - Static Display Not running. · SV1 - Un restored Original Suvivor · ??? - Questionable, status not determined. Peter Crisitello Crisitel@...

Hi all, Some of you may have seen me bouncing around Facebook, looking for answers on questions I have had since purchasing my car. I'm really happy to have found this list, though, as I much prefer a mailing list or Web Forum to Facebook Groups when it comes to old cars. First and foremost, here is a link to some photos (and a few ill-shot videos) of my car (Ignore the one where I'm struggling to figure out my battery wiring, I got it now.): https://photos.app.goo.gl/XUuFh6tLHkwDj5QF8 The car is in good condition, mostly original mechanically, and I am rapidly learning about it. There's definitely a lot more for me to learn, and I need to get some other stuff sorted out, such as the three or so wires hanging out of the dash over the charger, etc. Also, I'm looking for the following, if anyone has them: 1.) Dashboard: Mine has been painted and covered with Plexiglas, so I have lost the markings for lights and such. 2.) Battery hold-downs: I don't have any hold downs for the batteries, so they can shift about, which is Not Good?. I'm sure I could fiddle about and come up with something that works, but it would be nice to find original ones, assuming that they would fit my batteries. 3.) Badging: I am trying to figure out what badges my car ought to have, as it currently has none! 4.) Charger: The car came to me with the +48V lead on the charger attached to the -48V terminal on the battery, and the Seller (are you on this list, Tom?) said that it wasn't working, but did hum. I have read in the service manual that it's possible to hook up the charger with reverse polarity and not blow a fuse, so I'm hoping no serious damage was done to the batteries. 5.) Batteries: The batteries are under a year old, I believe, and I moved the charger terminal so that they charge now, but I'm really not certain how to know when they're fully charged, and whether I should leave the charger on longer with the ammeter in the green area so they can equalize. Individual readings on each battery show variation from 6.6 to 6.7, still, so I assume I should keep it going, but I don't want to overcharge, either. OK, that's a lot, I'll save my modern charger upgrade questions for later, and I'm bound to have a lot of questions moving forward. Thanks for reading! Tom

Hey, folks. I have a lime green 1980 Comuta-Car that has been sitting in my driveway tarp'd for over a year now. The first thing on my to-do list is to get keys for it as it didn't come with any. I have tried to remove the dash to get at the cylinder in hopes that I could take it to a locksmith but the odometer cable is too short to be able to work with. Doesn't seem I can detach it from the front and at the moment I don't have a jack to be able to try and do it from the bottom. I also thought about trying to get a key cylinder out of the driver's side door but that looks like a complex operation. I imagine someone somewhere has been in the same spot. What did you do? Appreciate any thoughts you might have. Best, JLJ

sold to a member of this group. Went to a good home.

Hello group: I’m selling an inherited Citicar that’s been off the road since 1981, for parts or restoration. No batteries, one missing hub cap, crack in right-lower corner windshield. I’d like to see it go to someone with the passion for this car. Looking for 500$, no haggle, buyer picks it up, from Newtown, PA. If interested, or need photos, email me at richard.siderits@... rich

Hi Dave and All, These EV motors run very hot to the touch which cooks at just 130F. So if you can touch it without being burned, it is very good. Adding say a computer fan or 2 blowing air onto it and available in 48vdc isn't a bad idea. MPJA electronics surplus in Palm Beach is a source and online catalog. I get switches, fuse holders, DC-DC, etc from them too. Jerry