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citicar parts 2
I have numerous parts from parted out citicars. Also new leaf springs ,4lead motor brushes,and like new contacts for original contactors. Let me know your needs. Phil Sent from Mail for Windows 10
Started by philip welty @ · Most recent @
Brake not working update.
It has been about 2 weeks since my brakes went out while driving. Turns out it ran low on fluid. I topped off with dot3 and flushed the system. Everything works well now. Wanted to fix this earlier but am in the middle of a home renovation. Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
Started by Nicholas Gee @
Volt Meter /Fuel Gauge 7
I have a 48v Comutacar and would like to know if anyone knows the right way to connect to the battery system. My books show two different ways and I,m not sure which is right.
Started by Robert Lesko @ · Most recent @
Troubleshooting no run 16
So I have a problem. I drove my '77 sparky citicar the other day. All was well. Today I went out turned the key to on and heard a click in the trunk like I normally do. Hit the gas and nothing. I have a load tester and check my 4 12v batteries and all are fully charged. My fuse 5 on the fusebox is all good, but no joy. The two towers in the trunk look pretty rusty. suggestions?
Started by Mark Barbour @ · Most recent @
Postal Vehicles 2
Hello, I am in possession of two postal vehicles made in 1980 by Commuter Vehicles, Inc., of Sebring, Florida. I acquired these two cars 8-10 years with the grand intention of making at least one of them drivable. I never did anything with either one. I am looking for a new home for them. They are both mostly complete but certainly not anywhere near drivable. If anybody is interested or might know of someone interested I would certainly like to find them a good home. They at located in Titusville, FL. I might be interested in delivering them for my expenses. Let me know. Norman Lannee@...
Started by Lannee@... @ · Most recent @
Lost my hydraulic brakes 4
Throwing a reminder out to you guys be familiar with how to use your handbrake and that it works. Going down a big hill I had a tourist slam on the brakes in front of me I had to hit the brakes hard and now my hydraulic brakes aren't working properly. I had to use the handbrake as my only break to get the car back home. I will be looking into tomorrow to see if it's low on fluid and maybe that's what happened is it sucked air or if the cylinder has an issue. I am getting minor breaking capabilities out of it right now but not nearly enough to stop the car. I'll keep you guys posted if it needs a rebuild or it was just low on fluid. Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
Started by Nicholas Gee @ · Most recent @
ComutaCar in Montrose, CA [4 Attachments] 7
Great Job. My 1976citicaar and I live in North Syracuse, NY Mark
Started by Mark Barbour @ · Most recent @
Bumpers 6
I have looked back 10 yrs of this site and unable to find anything or may have overlooked it but what is everyone doing to replace the old rotting out bumpers on the Citi Car. Mine have become brittle and dry rotted.
Started by Clint Lee @ · Most recent @
Wiring new Alltrax SR48600 4
Good morning All, I'm at a standstill with my upgrade. I bit the bullet and got and installed a new SR48600 controller, heavy duty main Contactor, f/r contactor, and PB-6 pot box. I have the high voltage (big wire stuff) installed, now working on 12 volt wiring. Here's my problem, the diagram from Alltrax shows a direct connection from the main contactor to the ksi switch then to f/r switch then to the micro switch on the pot box then back to the main contactor. It seems clear but that is all low amp 48 volts, the current wiring has a feed from the ksi to the the fuse box at 12 volts. My first thought is to just to run another switch circuit to turn on the 48 volt system with an incorporated DC/DC converter that sends 12 volts to the ksi. My concern with that set up is how the foot pedal input interacts with the f/r switch and the reverse light set up. There was a good conversation thread last year where people sent in their wiring diagrams, the sight may be having issues, I cannot see the photos, the file uploads seem to be fine or email me directly is cool too. This group has been so helpful over the time I have owned my car. I hope to get it running this month and use as a sunny daily driver : )
Started by Tony399 @ · Most recent @
Original dash rocker switches 5
Hello all, Our 76 Citicar has degraded to the point of being a not raining, daylight-only vehicle because all of the original rocker switches have failed. I am going to contact Carling Technologies to see about getting some more switches with the engraved amber lenses, but I'm going to guess there is a minimum buy quantity. I'll post what I find out but in the mean time, does anyone else need switches? My wife wants to keep the original look. That's why I am researching this. Shane in Utah
Started by Shane O'Hearn @ · Most recent @
Troubleshooting Brush details, no run 3
Hi Mark and All, These are GE motors mostly that are very common and any motor shop , etc that sells parts, especially forklift ones, will likely have them, the brush holder in stock. I replaced my brushes and brush holder, about $100 by now I'd guess, and never had another problem with it putting on 1,000s of miles since. But only if you actually need it. On the brushes the copper leads tend to go first after 15-20 yrs depending on how damp mostly, and pop like fuses. And only $30 a set or so, smart to replace them all if one goes. Keep the others for emergency spares. Just have the model number on the tag/label or the old ones for them to look up. A lot of times you just have to work them up and down. Find the thinnest thing like a razorblade knife, feeler gauge and slide it between the holder and brush to break it loose if needed. They from condensation tend to corrode slightly together if not moved every 3-6 months. So when not running, push it a few feet very 3 months or so. And make sure you run them in for a couple hours on 12vdc or so while on jacks. Jump your lower 12vdc of the pack, as or afterward recharge them to match the other battery voltages. Or a 12 battery. Jerry Dycus
Started by jerry freedomev @ · Most recent @
Citicar at about 20 mins. 30 secs in.
https://youtu.be/jKv_N0IDS2A "I TURNED MY TESLA INTO A PICKUP TRUCK Kriss Davis
Started by kriss_davis @
Parking brake 11
So I have my brakes working great, but not my parking brake. Anyone ever figure how else to lock the wheels from rolling away when on an incline. I like automatic cars due to the park feature. Thanks, Mark
Started by Mark Barbour @ · Most recent @
Oil volume for rear differential. 8
How much oil should I put in my rear differential I have a Terrell rear axle and I use 75 weight 90 Royal Purple. The book says 11 oz and another part of the book says fill to within 1 in of top plug. Not sure which I should go buy. Last time I filled it I used 11 oz is this correct. Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
Started by Nicholas Gee @ · Most recent @
Tow Bar for Citicar 5
A friend of mine fabricated brackets for a tow bar so that I can tow my citicar to my local garage or where ever I need to take it. Very simple and it just bolts on. I'm planning on taking pics this weekend and let you know how it works in real life. On a side note I'm looking for something to cover my citicar when It's outside. Something like this motorcycle cover. We've had so much rain this spring I'd rather not move the car in the garage all the time. https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Motorcycle-Shelter-Shed-Waterproof/dp/B01MZHB22O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=motorcycle+shelter&qid=1559907783&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Started by Mark Barbour @ · Most recent @
Replacement spider for Comuta front? 3
Hi All, Can anyone give me recommendations for the best place to get halfway decent spiders? Here are the sources I've found, first: EVPerformance has one, of course CartZone has one that looks like it'd work for the front brakes, here. And VintageGolfCarts has this (and two others, but this is cheapest and looks like it should work). Here's the story, for anyone interested: I finally got around to replacing the brake lines on my CCar. They look great, and didn't do a single thing for the brakes... Still, I feel good about getting them replaced--they're one less thing that could have been bad. So: I decided to take the problematic wheel apart, and I found that I can't move the pistons in the spider, with the spider completely removed and disconnected. I grab them with pliers, hit them with a screwdriver, and nothing gives--so I think it must have rusted badly between the pistons and spiders. Sigh, more parts to buy... I'm getting kind of tired of not being able to drive my car! Each time I've started a "simple task" with the brakes, it turns into a little miniature money-sinkhole... Thanks for your advice or input--it's all appreciated! - Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
Started by Jacob @ · Most recent @
Henny Kilowatt article
https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1122932_1960-henney-kilowatt-electric-car-was-a-junction-box-of-20th-century-future Interesting Kriss Davis
Started by kriss_davis @
Body panels -- Vaccum forming? 10
Hi All, Someone mentioned that they had body panels available (NOS) in another thread, which made me remember this, but I didn't want to hijack the topic with my off-topic idea. I've been wondering if the body panels were originally vacuum-formed. ABS softens a little above 105C (221F). In addition, the body panels don't seem to have any sharp edges--looking at them, they seem the ideal shapes for vacuum-forming. Does anyone know if this was how the originals were made? Has anyone tried making a new panel this way? Thanks! - Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
Started by Jacob @ · Most recent @
Brakes are utterly useless--how do I fix them?[1Attachment]
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
Started by philip welty @
(No subject) 2
Can you please delete my account. I don't own a car anymore.tgank u
Started by zack zack @ · Most recent @
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