开云体育

Hi everyone, I have replied to others posts but never(?) posted a project of my own. I accumulated a Craftsman 6" a few years ago. Not running, and missing some parts. I disassembled much of it, but not until now did i have bench space for it. I thought i would get it running and find an aspiring chip maker to bestow it on - maybe! i have a 10K at home, and access to anything else I need at work. At first look, It's missing the gear case assembly, counter shaft drive pulley, and the motor pulley. I think someone may have run it direct from a motor, which I will have to source eventually. I'm not planning to restore it, just make it run. Wadda you think? Payson

Facebook marketplace offers, no connection to me https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1475945832959038/ https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/7337904256317216/

Good evening folks. I acquired this Atlas 10 TV36 lathe last year. Not had much time to put it to use but I bought it because it was in good condition and within my area (it is hard to have equipment send via pallet where I live). My main use would be for turning sockets for various jobs I do in mild steel. I'm new to this type of machine and need to be able to adjust the speed. However, as you can see from the pictures, there is only a single drive pulley. I was told from another owner that I'm looking for a 19mm (3/4) bore keyway 150/125/100/75mm. Would someone be able to inform me if this is correct, and if so, are there an UK based suppliers where I can purchase one? Thanks for you time Steve

An interesting web site: https://youtu.be/4bOMjK9ymCY?si=kn4IcEpzVOGsVpLZ Dennis

Greetings, I’m working on getting the subject lathe up and running. The Timkin tapered roller bearings on the spindle were made in June 1946, so I figure the lathe was produced when Craftsman started selling lathes after WW2. I would like to know what precision class the original tapered roller bearings were. Would they have been Standard (Class 4 or 2), or would they have been Class 3. It is my understanding that Timkin Class 3 tapered roller bearings are no longer available for the subject lathe. Is that correct?

I am getting close to needing belts for my 10F with Horizontal Countershaft. I want to go with the link belts. Can someone recommend a good brand and how much length will I need? Steve

https://www.starrett.com/news-events/the-l.s.-starrett-company-enters-into-a-merger-agreement-with-middleground-capital-to-become-private-company animal

Total newbie. Did my first turning not long ago. I learned a lot. Specifically that I have a lot to learn, but also that this is going to be something i REALLY enjoy. I am trying to find a chart showing the different speed settings for my 10 inch V54. Does anyone have such a thing? I have been looking online and not found one so far. Thanks, Lee

Robert Downs , ever see one of these ? https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/engine-lathe-screw-machine-tooling.424678/ animal

Members: Can anyone help with some digital pics of the Countershaft pulley arrangement on their MFC? I am just assembling my basket case Mill and seem to have a problem with either the MI-401B Spindle Belt Guard or the MI-21B Countershaft Assembly or even the L2-679B Pulley. I have L2-679B Pulley with large diameter pointing to outside ( Motor side ) on its shaft. This could be on backwards but I don't see that it makes much difference as it is still the same size but just repositioned over a couple of inches. Countershaft hanger is installed with the straight side of the casting also to the Motor Side of the mill ( casting # facing towards spindle of mill ). I also have a new Goodyear 3L280 Belt on machine. My problem is that with the spindle belt tight large diameter of countershaft pulley rubs on back of Spindle Belt Guard (actually pushes Belt Guard Cover open about 2" ). IF I try to let countershaft hanger come farther forward ( as if the belt was too long ) then large pulley hits belt guard when I try to open or close Belt Guard Cover. It does not seem as if there is much travel in the Countershaft Hanger although I don't have all the pieces on the rocker shaft and I don't have the Adjusting Pins MI-271. What am I doing wrong? Thanks--Ron

https://www.auctionninja.com/northeast-finds/product/atlas-model-th48-10-inch-change-gear-threading-metal-lathe-781225.html Not mine; just passing along the info

Good morning. I’ve recently purchased an Atlas MF, lm now on the hunt for the 2 belt guards. Please contact me at ballucanb7@... Thanks

Saw this on Facebook Marketplace. Thought someone may be interested. It's not mine. Just passing along the info. https://www.facebook.com/share/tL8XE19rYuTMk1HW/?mibextid=kL3p88

Having recuperate sufficiently I have boxed up this item for shipment. All I need is the original responders address for mailing. Please reply off line as I have lost the Email address. Sorry, Bill in Boulder

I have a couple of concerns about the reassembly of my mill. If I tighten the 3 bolts (on a side) that hold the MI-41 plates that clamp the knee to the mill body when tightened, the knee will not move. I assume that means I am undersimmed and need more shims. Is that correct? Also, I wonder about the thrust washer that is referenced as part of the MI-83 thrust bearing for the new lift screw. Mine do not have any races and are flat. That is not what I would have expected. Any comments? Also, when I did have it together, and the knee's clamp bolts only tightened to the point where the knees could move freely, I found the effort to raise the table a bit much. I'm guessing this will be very hard to qualify in a text. However, can anyone shed any light on what an acceptable amount of effort to raise the knee? Thanks Rick.

this popped up after a tube I was watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRuKKchj7sk

I'd want to put a box of some sort around that, as one little piece of swarf could make things way too exciting! If you're turning at slow speeds, and let it stop before you switch directions, it should work OK. I would like to put some sort of setscrew with a brass foot to jam the chuck myself. I'm getting hmmm, shall we say a little less likely to recognize when I'm doing something maybe a bit less than wise these days. I'm retired, but apparently spending too much time sleep deprived and requiring way more caffeine to compensate these days. I do have some vivid memories of striking sparks with electrical equipment, but haven't managed to spin a chuck off yet. And don't want to! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. SEMPER GUMBY! Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first. On Monday, January 1, 2024 at 07:09:01 PM CST, Bill Pendergrass <rzbill@...> wrote: My 10" lathe drive is stock orig equip. I've been thinking about a reverse switch install for a long time. Nothing going on today, I knew I had a lightly used DPDT toggle that could carrry the current so i did some digging into the motor plus the various schematic files on this site. Success. Easier than I expected. The on/off switch on the front of the lathe is still in the circuit and still does its job. I know the arguments about spinning the chuck off so no reason to rehash. I'll make a safety device if i become concerned about it. I've got some threading to a shoulder work coming so I want to do it the Joe Pie way. In reverse.

The drive coupler, which when engaged locks the spindle pulley to the spindle and when disengaged free it so the back gear can be engaged. When operating, particularly at the higher speeds, the drive coupler is disengaging. Mostly happens when there is a bit of load applied (see attached video or view it on Vimeo), but it does happen without there being any load. I searched the historical postings and really only found one thread mentioning this issue (07-10-2006). Cleaning of the retaining ball detent was mentioned as was the possibility that the dog teeth had become worn, but it was not clear that any fix was found. I have disassembled and cleaned the coupler, spring and ball detents and it is still disengaging. I have not looked at the dog teeth to see what condition they are in. I did do a weld-up repair of worn dog teeth on a Rivett 1020 helical bevel gears (they didn't remain engaged either) but these were well exposed and easy to both weld more material on and mill them square again. The comment in the earlier post said the MK2 dog teeth are recessed, so I'm not sure a similar repair could be done (need to take a look to even see if this could be the problem). I'm wondering if the ball detent springs need replacement, to help the detent balls remain in the coupler groove. The groove is not very deep but does not look worn. Or if there is some other issue/fix.

I don’t know if appropriate for the use but Harbor freight has link belts too. I’ve had one on my lathe for at least 15 years. Greg