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Yes, I have a local Tractor supply etc. where I can buy metal. But as with most subjects, I find experienced people have tricks up their sleeve. I just want some stuff to learn to turn with. B/c I am not experienced I am thinking old railroad spikes, making a forge and melting aluminum cans (I know its low grade, but i just want to learn to make chips with different metals), large bolts, etc. But what are some ideas other hobbyists have found for obtaining metal to turn while not cracking open the wallet and shelling out big bucks? I don't even have projects in mind really, just wanting the hands on experience with different metals. Thanks for any ideas, Lee

fits most 10 and 12 inch atlas/sears lathes

Hi everyone, I have replied to others posts but never(?) posted a project of my own. I accumulated a Craftsman 6" a few years ago. Not running, and missing some parts. I disassembled much of it, but not until now did i have bench space for it. I thought i would get it running and find an aspiring chip maker to bestow it on - maybe! i have a 10K at home, and access to anything else I need at work. At first look, It's missing the gear case assembly, counter shaft drive pulley, and the motor pulley. I think someone may have run it direct from a motor, which I will have to source eventually. I'm not planning to restore it, just make it run. Wadda you think? Payson

Facebook marketplace offers, no connection to me https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1475945832959038/ https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/7337904256317216/

Good evening folks. I acquired this Atlas 10 TV36 lathe last year. Not had much time to put it to use but I bought it because it was in good condition and within my area (it is hard to have equipment send via pallet where I live). My main use would be for turning sockets for various jobs I do in mild steel. I'm new to this type of machine and need to be able to adjust the speed. However, as you can see from the pictures, there is only a single drive pulley. I was told from another owner that I'm looking for a 19mm (3/4) bore keyway 150/125/100/75mm. Would someone be able to inform me if this is correct, and if so, are there an UK based suppliers where I can purchase one? Thanks for you time Steve

An interesting web site: https://youtu.be/4bOMjK9ymCY?si=kn4IcEpzVOGsVpLZ Dennis

Greetings, I’m working on getting the subject lathe up and running. The Timkin tapered roller bearings on the spindle were made in June 1946, so I figure the lathe was produced when Craftsman started selling lathes after WW2. I would like to know what precision class the original tapered roller bearings were. Would they have been Standard (Class 4 or 2), or would they have been Class 3. It is my understanding that Timkin Class 3 tapered roller bearings are no longer available for the subject lathe. Is that correct?

I am getting close to needing belts for my 10F with Horizontal Countershaft. I want to go with the link belts. Can someone recommend a good brand and how much length will I need? Steve

https://www.starrett.com/news-events/the-l.s.-starrett-company-enters-into-a-merger-agreement-with-middleground-capital-to-become-private-company animal

Total newbie. Did my first turning not long ago. I learned a lot. Specifically that I have a lot to learn, but also that this is going to be something i REALLY enjoy. I am trying to find a chart showing the different speed settings for my 10 inch V54. Does anyone have such a thing? I have been looking online and not found one so far. Thanks, Lee

Robert Downs , ever see one of these ? https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/engine-lathe-screw-machine-tooling.424678/ animal

Members: Can anyone help with some digital pics of the Countershaft pulley arrangement on their MFC? I am just assembling my basket case Mill and seem to have a problem with either the MI-401B Spindle Belt Guard or the MI-21B Countershaft Assembly or even the L2-679B Pulley. I have L2-679B Pulley with large diameter pointing to outside ( Motor side ) on its shaft. This could be on backwards but I don't see that it makes much difference as it is still the same size but just repositioned over a couple of inches. Countershaft hanger is installed with the straight side of the casting also to the Motor Side of the mill ( casting # facing towards spindle of mill ). I also have a new Goodyear 3L280 Belt on machine. My problem is that with the spindle belt tight large diameter of countershaft pulley rubs on back of Spindle Belt Guard (actually pushes Belt Guard Cover open about 2" ). IF I try to let countershaft hanger come farther forward ( as if the belt was too long ) then large pulley hits belt guard when I try to open or close Belt Guard Cover. It does not seem as if there is much travel in the Countershaft Hanger although I don't have all the pieces on the rocker shaft and I don't have the Adjusting Pins MI-271. What am I doing wrong? Thanks--Ron

https://www.auctionninja.com/northeast-finds/product/atlas-model-th48-10-inch-change-gear-threading-metal-lathe-781225.html Not mine; just passing along the info

Good morning. I’ve recently purchased an Atlas MF, lm now on the hunt for the 2 belt guards. Please contact me at ballucanb7@... Thanks

Saw this on Facebook Marketplace. Thought someone may be interested. It's not mine. Just passing along the info. https://www.facebook.com/share/tL8XE19rYuTMk1HW/?mibextid=kL3p88

Having recuperate sufficiently I have boxed up this item for shipment. All I need is the original responders address for mailing. Please reply off line as I have lost the Email address. Sorry, Bill in Boulder

I have a couple of concerns about the reassembly of my mill. If I tighten the 3 bolts (on a side) that hold the MI-41 plates that clamp the knee to the mill body when tightened, the knee will not move. I assume that means I am undersimmed and need more shims. Is that correct? Also, I wonder about the thrust washer that is referenced as part of the MI-83 thrust bearing for the new lift screw. Mine do not have any races and are flat. That is not what I would have expected. Any comments? Also, when I did have it together, and the knee's clamp bolts only tightened to the point where the knees could move freely, I found the effort to raise the table a bit much. I'm guessing this will be very hard to qualify in a text. However, can anyone shed any light on what an acceptable amount of effort to raise the knee? Thanks Rick.