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GP,Let me know, did a little looking this morning too.Found a 36" for around $77.00 shipped.?I'd be using this if I could read it somewhere besides at work!Thanks,?Dave? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G

I'd stick with the "B"Dave? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Hi, ? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan

If there are some big, raised bumps on the taper ID, then such a sanding tool might tend to follow the path of least resistance and end up with a perfect, but TILTED taper. By boring or grinding with

Hi Paul , In my experience you run the same risk as with the reamer if the damage / burring is at all uneven in that the shaft with emery paper will “ride” on the burr / high spot and cut away on

I have I-Gageing DRO's on a small table top mill they are fine for what they cost. I bought them from Tool-doc in Wisconsin he had the lowest price at the time. I e-mailed him if he still sells

Hey, Group: Jumping in on the Topic, though perhaps not the specific issue, with a question: Why not use a good MT3 shaft, wrap it in various (reducing) grits of sandpaper, and use that to remove any

Dave: Thanks for the comments. At the start of travel, the X scale protrudes 6" from the back edge of the way - at the end it protrudes just over 12". I just checked my receipts and find that the

Bill, Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well! How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that

Clover is a brand name for lapping compound. Dave

The real way to do it would be to grind the spindle. You need a taper attachment and a tool post grinder. A reamer would also get the job done GP

Dan C, I don't want to jump to any conclusions so I an curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound". Prussian Blue? Or some type of lapping compound?? IIRC my dad had something called

Accurately setting up may be a problem, but I think a boring bar is your best (but most difficult and risky) solution to knock off the high spots. Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT

Check VintageMachinery.com or OWWM.org (they have an electrical section). Dan Coleman

Yea i think the Amazon one is the one he has. He better use a draw bar to keep it in the spindle GP

Years ago I scored a surplus set of Morse taper reamers from 1 to 5 for $ 99 made in 1955 for the USN. Obviously 1000 ordered, 1200 made, 200 went into storage hoping for a high dollar follow on

No, not sure.? Give them a call.? I talked to them twice, once before ordering and then again the next day after ordering.? Sure wanted to make sure you are successful.

Gary, Andrei recommended the same kit. Do you know what grade of material it is?

Forgot a couple pics last night but you figured it out.?I swing mine all the time.?Check a diameter, flip it up or down to check the face. Tap it around to get the face true and back to the

Well, the problem is that this reamer may not go in straight, if the taper is fairly chewed up, as you indicate it might be. The Dremel grinding WILL assure the taper is perfectly concentric, but it