Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
It is my opinion that knowing how to do it is more important than if it is necessary. If not than you can skip it but if it is then you can do it. It’s your choice.?
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Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
I agree with kaje7777, I doubt if hardening is really necessary for occasional home shop use. Build it out of 1018 or 12L17, gain the experience, see how it works. Then if you think you want something better, make a second one using more expensive steel, and do the heat treating, grinding the ID, etc.
Steve Haskell
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Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
I just ordered one of these chucks from ebay. 45 bucks coming from china. All machined ground and hardened. Will it be good? Dunno. We'll see.
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My $0.02 is that building a kiln to heat-treat one part (made from material not designed for heat-treating) is a fool’s errand. But O1 steel and harden it or just buy the needed collet.
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Re: Finding small objects
Agreed, the time worm-holes have been definitely proven by science.
To avoid these worm-holes, I have reduced myself to these 3 practical tips:
1. Put down a velcro-like (hook side) mat under your disassembly/assembly area
2. Have this area contained by a box with only the side towards you open for access
3. Hang a shower curtain behind you and around this disassembly area. ?If something escapes the box and velcro, it will likely hit this curtain and be found at the curtain’s perimeter
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Re: Finding small objects
The mystery of why it is so hard to find dropped small parts is a long- standing one, but I am going to reveal the answer her based intensive science experiments I recently concluded. The reason I embarked on this research program was due to an experience I had while working in a small breakfast room next to my kitchen. This 8' x 10' room had a hard tile floor, and nothing in it but a table and chair. I was using the table to assemble a computer and I dropped a screw. I distinctly heard the screw hit the tile floor, but when I looked for it I couldn't find it. The floor was divided into squares by the tiles, so I got down on my hands and knees and searched the entire room tile by tile - no screw to be found.? I called it quits and left the project until the next day. When I walked back into that room, there was the screw lying in plain site in the middle of floor!
This prompted me to enter into a series of experiments using high speed cameras, lasers, special lighting arrays, and a plethora of nuts, bolts, and screws. It took me a while to capture on video what was actually happening but I finally found the answer: Time holes!
I discovered that there are extra-dimensional holes 3 to 4 inches in diameter and an inch or two off the floor. These holes are only open from underneath. If you drop something in the location of a hole from above it acts like it is not there; but if the dropped object hits the floor and bounces?up into the hole then it disappears! But the object doesn't go out of existence because these are time holes; the dropped object actually bounces into the hole and into the future by several hours to several days, depending upon how "deep" the hole is. This is why you can hear a dropped item bounce but then it's nowhere to be found, only to turn up later. The time holes are also sensitive to light so they fade quickly in the open, and are more likely to be found under tables and workbenches.
Isn't science amazing!
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Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
My $0.02 is that building a kiln to heat-treat one part (made from material not designed for heat-treating) is a fool’s errand. But O1 steel and harden it or just buy the needed collet.
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Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
There seems to be an assumption here that hardening is a requirement for the project. I'd like to play devil's advocate here and ask - Is hardening really necessary? Desirable sure, but necessary??? If this was a tool that was going to get constant daily use in a commercial machine shop I would say definitely yes. But in the home shop where tools get relatively minor use, I think we can get away with not hardening.
I'm just an amateur home shop machinist with not all that many machining hours clocked yet, so I may well be off base on this. What do you more experienced hands have to say about this?
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??? ??? don't know if they? still have any but Clausing (sp)
still sells parts , I'm sure someone else will chime in with a ph
# or ya can try these guys
??? ??? animal
On 4/24/2020 3:02 PM, danny wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello and thank you for adding me.? I have an
Atlas lathe model 3950 and I need a replacement cross slide. I
haven't been able to find one for my specific model but I can
find one for a different Atlas 6" lathe I believe it is a 109?
Could I use one from a different?model but still an Atlas 6"??
Thank you,?
Danny V.
--
Danny Villalobos
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On 04/24/2020 05:02 PM, danny wrote: Hello and thank you for adding me. I have an Atlas lathe
model 3950 and I need a replacement cross slide. I haven't
been able to find one for my specific model but I can find
one for a different Atlas 6" lathe I believe it is a 109?
Could I use one from a different model but still an Atlas 6"? The Craftsman 109 series were made by a different company (AA Tools). The ones made by Atlas Press were badged 101.xxxxx Jon
|
Hello and thank you for adding me.? I have an Atlas lathe model 3950 and I need a replacement cross slide. I haven't been able to find one for my specific model but I can find one for a different Atlas 6" lathe I believe it is a 109? Could I use one from a different?model but still an Atlas 6"?? Thank you,? Danny V. -- Danny Villalobos
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Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
That’s good to know. What a guy. I have been heat treating A2 for years in SS foil in the past but never knew I could do that with low carb in my driveway if I had to.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 24, 2020, at 5:06 PM, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Very good video.?
To add what Bill in OKC has said about case hardening low carbon steel,
where Tom Griffin takes you through the process using a simple back-yard firebrick kiln.? He is case hardening 1018 parts for a clamp knurling tool that he has demonstrated how to build.
I haven't tried it yet, but need to harden the parts for that knurling tool, so am getting ready to give it a go.?
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 08:26:22 PM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
Lots of people have built forges and furnaces by digging a hole in the ground. Or piling up dirt. Bricks, blocks, or rocks? too. A fan, a handful of feathers, or a shop vac to force draft. Scrap wood, charcoal, waste oil, propane... There are a lot of
ways to do it.?
Alexander Weygers has a pretty good book, The Complete Modern Blacksmith.?
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Modern-Blacksmith-Alexander-Weygers-ebook/dp/B007KPNJD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=complete+modern+blacksmith&qid=1587698705&sr=8-3
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 09:38:37 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
Where is Jody going to get a forge and how will he keep it at 1000+ degrees for several hours?
Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.
Or you can put it in a metal box or can packed with carbon, scraps of leather or horn, or a few other things, seal it, and put it in a forge and keep it red-hot for several hours. Then dump and quench. There are usually several ways to do things in metalworking.
Some of them are old-fashioned and not as controllable, but adequate for occasional use.?
I guess it helps if you read old books on how things were done before modern equipment was invented.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 08:31:38 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
1018 can be hardened by carburizing. It takes hours at high temperatures, it takes a special furnace where they pump carbon monoxide and sulphur and other stuff. Definitely not something you can do at home.? And it won't be as good
as o1 steel
Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.
Glenn sticking 1018 in water will not harden its a waist of time
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 9:02:06 PM EDT, Glenn N <glennsneff@...> wrote:
Glenn
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020, 5:18 PM
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
So I went by the metal store by the house and picked up a 3" 1018 round bar drop off for a few bucks.? Very little round bar to choose from so I grabbed a piece of what they had since its only a few bucks.
I believe I should be able to get this heat treated afterwards.? ?I'll have to see what sort of hardness it? an provide.
I have no idea how this will machine.? I'll give it a spin.
So what sort of hardness is needed for a? collet chuck.
-Jody
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10+, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 4/23/20 4:00 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
A collet chuck needs a hardened surface where the collet"s contact the taper of the chuck. You can use a oil hardening steel or water hardening. Make sure you do it properly and watch the colors of the steel when you dunk it in. I can walk you
thru the process but i need to know the type of steel
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 4:38:15 PM EDT, Andrei
<calciu1@...> wrote:
Oops. forgot about the collets being hardened and the cast iron, vastly less so. Thanks?GP
A collet chuck needs to be made from tool steel not cast iron. The collet will dig in to the cast iron. Its a no no
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 4:16:05 PM EDT, Andrei
<calciu1@...> wrote:
1 foot long piece of 4.25" cast iron is 106 bucks at mcmaster. yuo need this diameter to finish at 100mm for your chuck.
1144 is only available in 3" max diameter, so your options may be limited in using this.?
Cast iron is always a good (but messy) option. You can order a slice of various diameters from McMaster Carr. This is a company that never disappoints, until your check your bill
?. Their products are top notch, selections are wide and deep and they are delivered quickly. The prices match the quality of product and service. I have never hesitated buying from them.?
Best Regards,
Andrei D. Calciu
6371 Birch Leaf Court
Burke, VA 22015-3528 USA
?
703-995-4822 (landline and Fax)
571-436-0169 (mobile)
mailto:calciu1@...
?
?
Jody - Regarding your question about stainless for your project: I have not had much experience working with stainless, but what little I have had has all been bad. This may say more about my fairly limited machining experience than anything else, but
I found work hardening to be a real problem.
Take a look at this chart for some idea of how easy it is to machine various metals:
You might consider 1144 stressproof. You can look up various alloys on SpeedyMetals and get more information on typical uses.
|
Re: Finding small objects
Part catcher for grinder / wire wheel.PVC pipe behind each exhaust
feeding a T pointing up to an elbow to a T
pointing down with a vacuum
cleaner bag held on with a rubber band.
Reducers on pipes behind grinder to make sure that nothing gets away.
Behind bottom T's a clean-out on each side, pipe sized to fit grinder exhaust. Filter bag hangs down so debris wont fall out.
In top T place a divider to divert airflow down from each side.
By angling the top T forward and down the bag can be moved over the grinder for
easier access / emptying. May need frame to hold upright. Should stand on its own.
it is a PITA to hunt small parts on a busy work bench.
I have not tried this yet, health problems.? As soon as I am able to
get to the workshop I intend to build this.
I hope I explained my idea enough.
DO NOT try to hold small parts with your fingers use a pair of pliers.
Don't ask how I know this.
Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR
Political Correctness is a Political Disease.
Politicians and Diapers should be changed
often and for the same reasons.
On Friday, April 24, 2020, 12:04:54 PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? ?? another of? Murphy's that I have lived by for most of my
life " small parts are afraid of the light , when exposed they
immediately go to the darkest area of your shop "
??? ??? animal
On 4/23/2020 11:44 PM, Ken Harrington
wrote:
Perry said:
"Any suggestions for finding small parts thrown by the wire wheel
on the grinder"
A couple of preemptive options are to attach some kind of handle
to your part, it a nut, put it on a bolt, on really small parts i
wrap one end in blue tape with a long tail, if I drop it and the
tail survives the wire wheel it is way easier to find. On some
parts (if safe) I attach a short length of soft wire (no sharp
ends) to give a better hold on the part, if it catches in the
machine I let go. Also listen carefully to the sounds the part
makes as it bounces around and you can often identify what makes
those sounds when a part is bounced off of them. For threaded
parts I bought a few cheap vice grip type pliers at HF and clamped
nuts of various sizes in the jaw then welded them in, then sawed
the captive nut in two, and ground out a little extra space in the
jaw area to make room for the bolt/screw head. Also put a chunk of
old shag carpet in the target zone of your grinder, it tends to
capture parts or at least slow them down.
Murphy's law of small parts; If there is a hole or drain, a
dropped part will find it.
I build a partially functioning Interocitor, I found that if i
leave it powered up by the grinder it somehow captures those nuts,
bolts and parts that other people loose into hyperspace and they
just come flying out of a small time/space portal. It gets
annoying, sometimes I need a shovel there are so many ; )
--
Ken H in AZ
Knowledge is like manure, it won't do any good unless you spread
it around.
|
Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
To add what Bill in OKC has said about case hardening low carbon steel,
where Tom Griffin takes you through the process using a simple back-yard firebrick kiln.? He is case hardening 1018 parts for a clamp knurling tool that he has demonstrated how to build.
I haven't tried it yet, but need to harden the parts for that knurling tool, so am getting ready to give it a go.?
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 08:26:22 PM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
Lots of people have built forges and furnaces by digging a hole in the ground. Or piling up dirt. Bricks, blocks, or rocks? too. A fan, a handful of feathers, or a shop vac to force draft. Scrap wood, charcoal, waste oil, propane... There are a lot of
ways to do it.?
Alexander Weygers has a pretty good book, The Complete Modern Blacksmith.?
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Modern-Blacksmith-Alexander-Weygers-ebook/dp/B007KPNJD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=complete+modern+blacksmith&qid=1587698705&sr=8-3
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 09:38:37 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
Where is Jody going to get a forge and how will he keep it at 1000+ degrees for several hours?
Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.
Or you can put it in a metal box or can packed with carbon, scraps of leather or horn, or a few other things, seal it, and put it in a forge and keep it red-hot for several hours. Then dump and quench. There are usually several ways to do things in metalworking.
Some of them are old-fashioned and not as controllable, but adequate for occasional use.?
I guess it helps if you read old books on how things were done before modern equipment was invented.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 08:31:38 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
1018 can be hardened by carburizing. It takes hours at high temperatures, it takes a special furnace where they pump carbon monoxide and sulphur and other stuff. Definitely not something you can do at home.? And it won't be as good
as o1 steel
Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.
Glenn sticking 1018 in water will not harden its a waist of time
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 9:02:06 PM EDT, Glenn N <glennsneff@...> wrote:
Glenn
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020, 5:18 PM
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
So I went by the metal store by the house and picked up a 3" 1018 round bar drop off for a few bucks.? Very little round bar to choose from so I grabbed a piece of what they had since its only a few bucks.
I believe I should be able to get this heat treated afterwards.? ?I'll have to see what sort of hardness it? an provide.
I have no idea how this will machine.? I'll give it a spin.
So what sort of hardness is needed for a? collet chuck.
-Jody
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10+, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 4/23/20 4:00 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
A collet chuck needs a hardened surface where the collet"s contact the taper of the chuck. You can use a oil hardening steel or water hardening. Make sure you do it properly and watch the colors of the steel when you dunk it in. I can walk you
thru the process but i need to know the type of steel
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 4:38:15 PM EDT, Andrei
<calciu1@...> wrote:
Oops. forgot about the collets being hardened and the cast iron, vastly less so. Thanks?GP
A collet chuck needs to be made from tool steel not cast iron. The collet will dig in to the cast iron. Its a no no
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 4:16:05 PM EDT, Andrei
<calciu1@...> wrote:
1 foot long piece of 4.25" cast iron is 106 bucks at mcmaster. yuo need this diameter to finish at 100mm for your chuck.
1144 is only available in 3" max diameter, so your options may be limited in using this.?
Cast iron is always a good (but messy) option. You can order a slice of various diameters from McMaster Carr. This is a company that never disappoints, until your check your bill
?. Their products are top notch, selections are wide and deep and they are delivered quickly. The prices match the quality of product and service. I have never hesitated buying from them.?
Best Regards,
Andrei D. Calciu
6371 Birch Leaf Court
Burke, VA 22015-3528 USA
?
703-995-4822 (landline and Fax)
571-436-0169 (mobile)
mailto:calciu1@...
?
?
Jody - Regarding your question about stainless for your project: I have not had much experience working with stainless, but what little I have had has all been bad. This may say more about my fairly limited machining experience than anything else, but
I found work hardening to be a real problem.
Take a look at this chart for some idea of how easy it is to machine various metals:
You might consider 1144 stressproof. You can look up various alloys on SpeedyMetals and get more information on typical uses.
|
Re: Finding small objects
My father-in-law, Jack, used to sweep the garage floor and leave the piles until he got around to sorting them. As he was fond of letting them mature before sorting, we called them Jack-piles when we walked around them, or occasionally re-distributed the contents...
On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 12:44 AM cwlathes < carvelw@...> wrote: Bill . . .? look for something else . .? you might find it :>)
My late Dad always made a point of carefully sorting through the sweepings after cleaning garage / workshop , before finally dumping it in the trash . . . .?
Take care,
Carvel ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via
Sent: 23 April 2020 03:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finding small objects ? I experienced that with the firing pin sproing from a Mosin Nagant rifle bolt recently. No, that's not a misspelling, it's the sound it made disappearing. I bought two spares, installed one. I don't expect to ever see either of the other two again. ;)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Wednesday, April 22, 2020, 06:14:18 PM CDT, John Stainkamp <stainkampjohn@...> wrote: I once was installing a Japanese watchband where the instructions stated, and I quote: "Be careful installing the springs, as they may disappear"
|
Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
To add what Bill in OKC has said about case hardening low carbon steel, where Tom Griffin takes you through the process using a simple back-yard firebrick kiln.? He is case hardening 1018 parts for a clamp knurling tool that he has demonstrated how to build.
I haven't tried it yet, but need to harden the parts for that knurling tool, so am getting ready to give it a go.?
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 08:26:22 PM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
Lots of people have built forges and furnaces by digging a hole in the ground. Or piling up dirt. Bricks, blocks, or rocks? too. A fan, a handful of feathers, or a shop vac to force draft. Scrap wood, charcoal, waste oil, propane... There are a lot of ways to do it.?
Alexander Weygers has a pretty good book, The Complete Modern Blacksmith.?
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Modern-Blacksmith-Alexander-Weygers-ebook/dp/B007KPNJD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=complete+modern+blacksmith&qid=1587698705&sr=8-3
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 09:38:37 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
Where is Jody going to get a forge and how will he keep it at 1000+ degrees for several hours?
Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.
Or you can put it in a metal box or can packed with carbon, scraps of leather or horn, or a few other things, seal it, and put it in a forge and keep it red-hot for several hours. Then dump and quench. There are usually several ways to do things in metalworking.
Some of them are old-fashioned and not as controllable, but adequate for occasional use.?
I guess it helps if you read old books on how things were done before modern equipment was invented.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 08:31:38 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
1018 can be hardened by carburizing. It takes hours at high temperatures, it takes a special furnace where they pump carbon monoxide and sulphur and other stuff. Definitely not something you can do at home.? And it won't be as good
as o1 steel
Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.
Glenn sticking 1018 in water will not harden its a waist of time
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 9:02:06 PM EDT, Glenn N <glennsneff@...> wrote:
Glenn
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020, 5:18 PM
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
So I went by the metal store by the house and picked up a 3" 1018 round bar drop off for a few bucks.? Very little round bar to choose from so I grabbed a piece of what they had since its only a few bucks.
I believe I should be able to get this heat treated afterwards.? ?I'll have to see what sort of hardness it? an provide.
I have no idea how this will machine.? I'll give it a spin.
So what sort of hardness is needed for a? collet chuck.
-Jody
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10+, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 4/23/20 4:00 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
A collet chuck needs a hardened surface where the collet"s contact the taper of the chuck. You can use a oil hardening steel or water hardening. Make sure you do it properly and watch the colors of the steel when you dunk it in. I can walk you
thru the process but i need to know the type of steel
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 4:38:15 PM EDT, Andrei
<calciu1@...> wrote:
Oops. forgot about the collets being hardened and the cast iron, vastly less so. Thanks?GP
A collet chuck needs to be made from tool steel not cast iron. The collet will dig in to the cast iron. Its a no no
GP
On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 4:16:05 PM EDT, Andrei
<calciu1@...> wrote:
1 foot long piece of 4.25" cast iron is 106 bucks at mcmaster. yuo need this diameter to finish at 100mm for your chuck.
1144 is only available in 3" max diameter, so your options may be limited in using this.?
Cast iron is always a good (but messy) option. You can order a slice of various diameters from McMaster Carr. This is a company that never disappoints, until your check your bill
?. Their products are top notch, selections are wide and deep and they are delivered quickly. The prices match the quality of product and service. I have never hesitated buying from them.?
Best Regards,
Andrei D. Calciu
6371 Birch Leaf Court
Burke, VA 22015-3528 USA
?
703-995-4822 (landline and Fax)
571-436-0169 (mobile)
mailto:calciu1@...
?
?
Jody - Regarding your question about stainless for your project: I have not had much experience working with stainless, but what little I have had has all been bad. This may say more about my fairly limited machining experience than anything else, but
I found work hardening to be a real problem.
Take a look at this chart for some idea of how easy it is to machine various metals:
You might consider 1144 stressproof. You can look up various alloys on SpeedyMetals and get more information on typical uses.
|
Re: Finding small objects
As some of the old time comedians were fond of saying, 'THAT is funny!'
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This is actually quite dangerous and often counterproductive.
?
As all seasoned craftsmen know, certain small parts will instantly dissolve when touching concrete and often certain formulations of linoleum.? Science has not yet learned how to predict this 5th state of matter only that it’s related
to the value and availability of the dissolved part.
?
But sometimes, it falls into another dimension.? That’s when things get dicey.? Because repeatedly dropping a similar part, even for such a good reason, is often considered harassment by them.? Then the little jerks will raid your dryer and take
away single socks as trophies.
?
Truth.
?
?
?
Bruce - Those are good tips. I've used that flashlight trick before; sometimes it even works from a standing position if you use a flashlight with a concentrated beam - it acts like a spotlight tofocus your attention and highlight small objects.
Here's two more tips:
1. Take an object identical to the dropped object and place it on the floor. For example,if you dropped a screw, place an identical screw on the floor. This tells you what the dropped object is going to look like when you search for it and helps you do mental
"pattern matching."
2. Go ahead and sweep the floor! The collect all of the sweepings in a dustpan and look for your dropped item. You get a swept floor as a bonus, and maybe find a couple other things you dropped a while back. Sometimes if I drop a common object like a nut or
screw, if I don't spot it immediately I don't even bother to look for it. I just grab another one from the part drawer, knowing I'll find it on the next sweep-up.
One last trick: Dropped objects always seem to bounce under the workbench. I installed "kickboards" on the bottom front of my workbenches to keep that from happening (make them easy to remove, because somehow stuff seems to get under there
anyway!).
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Re: Finding small objects
??? ?? another of? Murphy's that I have lived by for most of my
life " small parts are afraid of the light , when exposed they
immediately go to the darkest area of your shop "
??? ??? animal
On 4/23/2020 11:44 PM, Ken Harrington
wrote:
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Perry said:
"Any suggestions for finding small parts thrown by the wire wheel
on the grinder"
A couple of preemptive options are to attach some kind of handle
to your part, it a nut, put it on a bolt, on really small parts i
wrap one end in blue tape with a long tail, if I drop it and the
tail survives the wire wheel it is way easier to find. On some
parts (if safe) I attach a short length of soft wire (no sharp
ends) to give a better hold on the part, if it catches in the
machine I let go. Also listen carefully to the sounds the part
makes as it bounces around and you can often identify what makes
those sounds when a part is bounced off of them. For threaded
parts I bought a few cheap vice grip type pliers at HF and clamped
nuts of various sizes in the jaw then welded them in, then sawed
the captive nut in two, and ground out a little extra space in the
jaw area to make room for the bolt/screw head. Also put a chunk of
old shag carpet in the target zone of your grinder, it tends to
capture parts or at least slow them down.
Murphy's law of small parts; If there is a hole or drain, a
dropped part will find it.
I build a partially functioning Interocitor, I found that if i
leave it powered up by the grinder it somehow captures those nuts,
bolts and parts that other people loose into hyperspace and they
just come flying out of a small time/space portal. It gets
annoying, sometimes I need a shovel there are so many ; )
--
Ken H in AZ
Knowledge is like manure, it won't do any good unless you spread
it around.
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Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
Jody,
Unless you have access to a friend with the necessary carburizing heat treatment equipment, call around to find out if you can sneak in at a reduced price your part in someone else's next batch, or how much it would cost if you have to eat the cost by yourself.?
Good luck and post some updates to the project
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Good suggestion.? I might look at getting the 1018 carburized afterwards.? I don't see me using so much that I would have an issue. I think a case hardened steel will work.??
-Jody
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10+, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "ram50v8efi via groups.io" <ram50v8efi@...>
Date: 4/23/20 10:11 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
Bill, I agree 110%! Some times you just have to work with whats available. When I made mine I just happened to come across a slug of 8620 that was free. I did not harden it, and has performed flawlessly since 2013 with no need for truing. I made another one
on the fly out of 6061 aluminum and it has been is use since 2018 with minor touch ups. When it comes down to it, one has to weigh the usage, life expectancy and cost. I will offer a piece of advice on making one, make the snout a tad longer if you have room
and then thread the snout a few extra threads, then as wear takes place you can trim the snout back after you true up the taper bore for proper collet and nut fit.
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Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
Good suggestion.? I might look at getting the 1018 carburized afterwards.? I don't see me using so much that I would have an issue. I think a case hardened steel will work.?? -Jody
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10+, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: "ram50v8efi via groups.io" <ram50v8efi@...> Date: 4/23/20 10:11 PM (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
Bill, I agree 110%! Some times you just have to work with whats available. When I made mine I just happened to come across a slug of 8620 that was free. I did not harden it, and has performed flawlessly since 2013 with no need for truing. I made another one on the fly out of 6061 aluminum and it has been is use since 2018 with minor touch ups. When it comes down to it, one has to weigh the usage, life expectancy and cost. I will offer a piece of advice on making one, make the snout a tad longer if you have room and then thread the snout a few extra threads, then as wear takes place you can trim the snout back after you true up the taper bore for proper collet and nut fit.
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Re: Making an ER40 Collet Chuck
On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 05:28 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
4140 is an ordinance (sic) steel
"...4140, also known as ordnance steel, was one of the early high-alloy steels, used in 1920s' aircraft frames and automotive axles in addition to rifle barrels." Ref: Can be purchased annealed or pre-hardened (Heat Treated - 4140HT)? This common alloy is machinable in the Heat Treated condition. I use it often. Raymond
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Brian Cayer
Steven H
Bill Buckalew