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Re: Craftsman Lathe 101.07403
The product numbers for the Timkin tapered roller bearings are 16150 for the cone and 16284 B for the cup. This assembly is currently available in Standard Precision (Class 2), but what precision bearings did the lathe originally come with. There is a 3 engraved on the cup & cone of the bearing set. Could that be the class of precision?
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Re: Craftsman Lathe 101.07403
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Busted Knuckle <arzander55@...>
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2024 7:01:27 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Lathe 101.07403 ?
Greetings,I’m working on getting the subject lathe up and running. The Timkin tapered roller bearings on the spindle were made in June 1946, so I figure the lathe was produced when Craftsman started selling lathes after WW2. I would like to know what precision class the original tapered roller bearings were. Would they have been Standard (Class 4 or 2), or would they have been Class 3. It is my understanding that Timkin ?Class 3 tapered roller bearings are no longer available for the subject lathe. Is that correct? |
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
开云体育Sell the cans and use the money to buy aluminum stock. Faster, cheaper, better material.On 3/21/2024 10:15 AM, Lbrewer42 wrote:
Yes, I have a local Tractor supply etc. where I can buy metal. But as with most subjects, I find experienced people have tricks up their sleeve. I just want some stuff to learn to turn with. B/c I am not experienced I am thinking old railroad spikes, making a forge and melting aluminum cans (I know its low grade, but i just want to learn to make chips with different metals), large bolts, etc. But what are some ideas other hobbyists have found for obtaining metal to turn while not cracking open the wallet and shelling out big bucks? I don't even have projects in mind really, just wanting the hands on experience with different metals. |
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
On 3/22/24 19:23, eddembowski wrote:
Whenever I have to swing by the dump, I go to the metalBed frames are horrible stuff.? Yes, it looks like angle iron, but is VERY hard and tough on cutting tools. Jon |
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
Whenever I have to swing by the dump, I go to the metal dropoff to see what's there. You never know what comes up, but a lot of times I'll see scrap that's good for welding or making something out of. Whenever I see a bed frame thrown out, I snap it up because it's a great source of angle iron. Sometimes there's rebar which is good for round stock. It rarely happens, but sometimes there's a rim made of aluminum that I can melt down to bar stock. It's always worth a look, since it's all free. On Thu, Mar 21, 2024 at 10:16?AM Lbrewer42 <lbrewer_42@...> wrote: Yes, I have a local Tractor supply etc. where I can buy metal. But as with most subjects, I find experienced people have tricks up their sleeve. I just want some stuff to learn to turn with. B/c I am not experienced I am thinking old railroad spikes, making a forge and melting aluminum cans (I know its low grade, but i just want to learn to make chips with different metals), large bolts, etc. But what are some ideas other hobbyists have found for obtaining metal to turn while not cracking open the wallet and shelling out big bucks? I don't even have projects in mind really, just wanting the hands on experience with different metals. |
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Craftsman Lathe 101.07403
Greetings,I’m working on getting the subject lathe up and running. The Timkin tapered roller bearings on the spindle were made in June 1946, so I figure the lathe was produced when Craftsman started selling lathes after WW2. I would like to know what precision class the original tapered roller bearings were. Would they have been Standard (Class 4 or 2), or would they have been Class 3. It is my understanding that Timkin ?Class 3 tapered roller bearings are no longer available for the subject lathe. Is that correct? |
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Re: Drive belts
开云体育
Same here. I have been using link-belts for about a decade. In my experience, I think they run a little smoother and a little quieter than the old v-belts. Pick any brand you want. They are cheap enough that you can experiment and find out which link-belt is
favored by your machine. Just make sure you pick the right size.?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Larry Hoelscher <lgh1330@...>
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2024 3:43 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Drive belts ?
I also use link belts for all my pulleys on my Atlas lathe.? I would never want to dismantle the lathe to change/replace belts.? Whether you want to use a HF belts or find a different manufacturer, the same reason holds
true.
On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 2:18?PM Pumpguy via <oakservcs=[email protected]> wrote:
I have been using Nu-T-Link belting on my Craftsman 101.07403 12 X 24 standard change gear bench lathe for many years now; at least 20. |
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Re: Drive belts
I also use link belts for all my pulleys on my Atlas lathe.? I would never want to dismantle the lathe to change/replace belts.? Whether you want to use a HF belts or find a different manufacturer, the same reason holds true. On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 2:18?PM Pumpguy via <oakservcs=[email protected]> wrote: I have been using Nu-T-Link belting on my Craftsman 101.07403 12 X 24 standard change gear bench lathe for many years now; at least 20. |
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Re: Drive belts
I have been using Nu-T-Link belting on my Craftsman 101.07403 12 X 24 standard change gear bench lathe for many years now; at least 20.
I've found that this belting is directional when it comes to its power transmission. ?For me, when installed so the high portion of each link is toward the back (motor) side, there is less slippage than if installed with the high portion of each link toward the front. ? Also I find that some of the T pins turn in service so they're at less than 90* to the run of the belt. ?Every so often I take a pair of pliers and go over the belt, turning the shifted pins back to 90*. ? Knowing this, I would still use and recommend Nu-T-Link belting for this lathe with recommendation it be installed with the high side of each link toward the back of the lathe.? |
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
Lee,
purely based on .... "I am not experienced" People here are much more experienced than me so take this for what it's worth. As I went down my inexperience path here's what I do different..... ? Start your journey with maybe only the one think you'll know... what the material is. I could get cut offs, surplus from a local steel supplier. Pile it all on a scale and pay $/lb, no matter the type of steel. Can get a lot for $20, but you may or may now now what the material it is and being inexperienced I wasn't proficient with the spark test either.? Chuck in in the machine.... this piece I'm doing pretty good, this piece not so much. ????? lots of variables to learn, the machine itself, speeds/feed, cutting tool geometry, material and properties yada yada yada. Eliminate the one variable that easiest to? control, the material. I'd BUY a known steel material, low carbon, or free machining. Get a $20 hunk of 1" diameter low carbon, sketch up some type of fake shaft of different diameters and tolerances, shoulders etc and have at it.? I'd not mess with brass until you at least get comfortable with that, it can be nasty for the first time apprentice.? I''d skip the aluminum for now. -- Kevin B. |
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
开云体育While just practicing making chips without a project in mind may seem like a good idea, in reality it’s not. ?Yes, you can practice with 12L14, brass, delrin and other free-machining materials, but the projects you eventually pursue will likely require materials with different properties. ?You may as well start working with them now, because learning the tricks of machining them is just as important as learning how to operate your lathe itself.Someone mentioned 4140 as a difficult steel. ?Yes, it won’t turn as nicely as 12L14, but there times when 4140 pre-hard is exactly what you need. ?And it really doesn’t turn too badly. I don’t think I’d waste my time on railroad spikes. ?Junk auto or truck axles are another matter. ?Pretty tough to turn as found, but put them in a wood stove overnight and they are much easier. Take on some projects. On Mar 21, 2024, at 10:16 AM, Lbrewer42 <lbrewer_42@...> wrote:
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
开云体育I agree that buying it from a known supplier is good when you know what you want to make and want to know its properties so it will work best.? However if you are not picky I have a few suggestions. ?I work at a print shop and the machines there are all serviced regularly which means that parts like rollers are routinely tossed out when needing to be replaced.? Most of them are made with very nice steel so I bring them home and have made many projects with them.? You may find a local business that might do the same.? Also I have purchased drops at a local metal fabricator shop picking though their scrap bin.? I usually go about 11:00 am so when I bring my find for the day to the office, the guy sitting behind the desk is thinking about lunch.? He is wondering where he is going and how much that might cost.? I always pay in cash.? Usually I get a good deal when he sees his lunch money in my hand. ? John Johnson |
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
开云体育I believe Clickspring has a vid on YouTube on how to modify?
drill bits for brass , may have something lathe tools too animal
On 3/21/24 3:29 PM, rfmarchi1 wrote:
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
开云体育
Be careful if you are not familiar with brass. It can tend to dig in because it is so soft. It is normally drilled and turned with zero or negative rake tools, including special brass drills that have zero rake flutes. Read up on it before you get surprised.
A light duty lathe or drill setup (IE: hand holding the piece being drilled with a large diameter drill on the drill press table). |
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Re: Drive belts
Hi Steve,
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One of my 10" Atlases that's still stock uses a 4L310 spindle belt, which is 1/2" wide x 31" long. Yours is likely similar in size, and the number, 4L310 or A29, might still be readable on it. My antique one is still barely visible. If this original belt goes bad, rather than pulling the spindle I'll use a piece of orange Gates Nu-T-Link belting; have had a 31" piece set aside for that purpose for a few years now. Bought a 50 foot roll of the handy stuff years ago at NAPA (not seeing it there right now, but ask your local one) for around $25. Looks like a roll's up to around $36 now. There's a picture of it on this page: I see it and a couple of other styles on Ebay, too. Handy stuff, I've used it on other fractional hp equipment and have talked to several guys who've used it on their Atlas lathes. I have about 40' left here, more than a lifetime's supply for me. If you can use some and you're in the USA, LMK. I'll be happy to mail you a 3 foot hunk for the postage cost ($9 Priority Mail to US addresses). Drop me an email and we'll go from there. Hope that's helpful. God bless you, Dave Harnish Dave's Repair Service drs@... Pontius Pilate: "Joseph, I don't understand. You're one of the richest man in the region, and you've spent a small fortune on a new tomb for you and your family - and you want to give it to this man Jesus?" Joseph: "Oy vay, it's just for the weekend." John 19:38, 41 KJV On 3/21/2024 3:39 PM, Steve Bergeron wrote:
I am getting close to needing belts for my 10F with Horizontal |
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
On Thu, Mar 21, 2024, 8:00?AM Greg via <gregj=[email protected]> wrote:
Greg, I'm in Portland also. I have an abundant supply of steel rod and hex. If you need something, I'll trade for the name of your aluminum scrap yard? ??. Email me off list Rex |
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Re: Ideas on getting free/inexpensive stock/scraps
Lee,
Good question and some good suggestions. ? ? I have one more to add, in addition to browsing machine shops and Metal supply houses for ‘drops’.? Due to the high prices of machine tools…..drills, endmills and the like, you might want to think about starting with mostly aluminum and brass materials, since your tools will last longer.?Especially Aluminum and specifically 6061-T6 ( commonly referred to as ‘aircraft aluminum’)……..anywhere you can find it. Scrap yards IMO, can be a crap-shoot when finding specific materials unless the operator/owner can point them out to you…..you’ll be buying by the pound. ?Lots of the stuff you see in the bigbox stores is a little softer than 6061-T6 unless it is printed on the material itself. ? I had the good fortune of finding a Metal supply house that would let me browse thru their ‘drop’/scrap box and take anything I wanted. I visited them often, although sometimes the box was empty) Eventually they started selling their scraps to one company and my supply dried up. But by that time I?had a pretty good supply stored up. :) I might add that I was? also a small over-the-counter customer of theirs, so they knew me. Good luck, it’s a great hobby. Tom? ? |
charles brady
Clayton Percy
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