Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
Mike:
I don't have the Atlas TPG, but made one from a HFT router.? Both the external and internal arbors screw into the TPG spindle nose.? The internal arbor uses an ER collet so it will accept mounted stones with different diameter mounts.
?
.
?
--
US;USAEDFE, 72-74
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Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
For small work I made an aluminum mount to thread a dremel nose into and mount in a standard AXA tool holder. ?I think Dremel is a 3/4” thread.?
For larger work I made a simple wooden mount for a variable speed trim router with 1/4” collet. ?It’s a split clamp for the nose of the router.?
Not home at the moment. ?
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Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
Ok Will do. I will get it set up and post some pictures by the weekend.?
?
Merry Christmas!
?
Mike
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Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
??? Well the votes are in Mike , Ya know what they say , " Pic's
or it didn't happen " Ya can put the pic's in the photo section
& that way ya don't keep getting mails wanting copies mailed
one at a time .
thanks
Happy holidays to all & theirs
animal
On 12/24/24 8:58 AM, Bill in OKC too
via groups.io wrote:
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Can't speak for anyone else, but I'd like to see photos
of the rototiller and toolpost grinder setups. Thanks!
Bill in OKC?
William
R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only reason I know anything is
because I've done it wrong enough times to START
to know better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate in the other. See
which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, December 24, 2024 at 10:13:43 AM CST, Mike
K6AJ via groups.io <mkelleyp@...>
wrote:
Hello,
?
I have a tool post grinder but I do not have a
setup to adapt Dremel style grinding wheels to it. ?
?
What I did was made a tool post adapter for a
Roto Zip tool. ?I built a collar that replaced the
clamp on handle on the Roto Zip tool. The collar has
a flat bar connected to it that fits the tool post
on my lathe. ?It is much smaller than the tool post
grinder and a lot easier to manage. ?Let me know if
you would like pictures of my stock tool post
grinder.?
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Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
Can't speak for anyone else, but I'd like to see photos of the rototiller and toolpost grinder setups. Thanks!
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, December 24, 2024 at 10:13:43 AM CST, Mike K6AJ via groups.io <mkelleyp@...> wrote:
Hello,
?
I have a tool post grinder but I do not have a setup to adapt Dremel style grinding wheels to it. ?
?
What I did was made a tool post adapter for a Roto Zip tool. ?I built a collar that replaced the clamp on handle on the Roto Zip tool. The collar has a flat bar connected to it that fits the tool post on my lathe. ?It is much smaller than the tool post grinder and a lot easier to manage. ?Let me know if you would like pictures of my stock tool post grinder.?
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Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
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On 24 Dec 2024, at 11:13?AM, Mike K6AJ via groups.io <mkelleyp@...> wrote:
? Hello,
?
I have a tool post grinder but I do not have a setup to adapt Dremel style grinding wheels to it. ?
?
What I did was made a tool post adapter for a Roto Zip tool. ?I built a collar that replaced the clamp on handle on the Roto Zip tool. The collar has a flat bar connected to it that fits the tool post on my lathe. ?It is much smaller than the tool post grinder and a lot easier to manage. ?Let me know if you would like pictures of my stock tool post grinder.?
|
Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
Hello,
?
I have a tool post grinder but I do not have a setup to adapt Dremel style grinding wheels to it. ?
?
What I did was made a tool post adapter for a Roto Zip tool. ?I built a collar that replaced the clamp on handle on the Roto Zip tool. The collar has a flat bar connected to it that fits the tool post on my lathe. ?It is much smaller than the tool post grinder and a lot easier to manage. ?Let me know if you would like pictures of my stock tool post grinder.?
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Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
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thanks , it looks like there a small tapered arbor with threads
to draw it? into the spindle . I'm thinkin of sellin mine? &
not sure if I can get more for it if I have that arbor or not .
animal
On 12/22/24 3:41 AM, michael nolletti
via wrote:
Hey there, i have one of these grinders but I don't have any of
the internal grinding wheels
On Sun, Dec 22, 2024 at 2:15, mike allen
Does anyone have one of these tool
post grinders ? I'm looking for
some pic's of the setup for using? internal Dremel style
grinding stones
with their own arbors . I think I may be missing a part or 2
& like they
say a pic is worth 1000 words
thanks
happy holidays to all & theirs
animal
|
Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
thanks , it looks like there a small tapered arbor with threads
to draw it? into the spindle . I'm thinkin of sellin mine? &
not sure if I can get more for it if I have that arbor or not .
animal
On 12/22/24 3:41 AM, michael nolletti
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hey there, i have one of these grinders but I don't have any of
the internal grinding wheels
On Sun, Dec 22, 2024 at 2:15, mike allen
Does anyone have one of these tool
post grinders ? I'm looking for
some pic's of the setup for using? internal Dremel style
grinding stones
with their own arbors . I think I may be missing a part or 2
& like they
say a pic is worth 1000 words
thanks
happy holidays to all & theirs
animal
|
Re: 10-450Tool post grinder
Hey there, i have one of these grinders but I don't have any of the internal grinding wheels
On Sun, Dec 22, 2024 at 2:15, mike allen <animal@...> wrote: Does anyone have one of these tool post grinders ? I'm looking for
some pic's of the setup for using? internal Dremel style grinding stones
with their own arbors . I think I may be missing a part or 2 & like they
say a pic is worth 1000 words
thanks
happy holidays to all & theirs
animal
|
Does anyone have one of these tool post grinders ? I'm looking for
some pic's of the setup for using? internal Dremel style grinding stones
with their own arbors . I think I may be missing a part or 2 & like they
say a pic is worth 1000 words
thanks
happy holidays to all & theirs
animal
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Re: Bad Chuck - Can it be Solved
I’ve said this before, don’t know if in this group or not.
It doesn’t matter how much runout a lathe spindle chuck has IF (underline IF) you use a piece of rough stock larger in diameter than the largest finished diameter on your project, and IF you turn ALL diameters on your project in the same chucking and then part it off, all turned diameters will be concentric within the accuracy of your spindle bearings. IF you need to remove the project from the chuck to turn it around to face etc, and additional turning work needs to be done that needs to be concentric, then best to use a 4-jaw independent chuck and dial the work in with a dial indicator for the additional turning work that needs to be done during the second and subsequent chuckings.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
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Re: Bad Chuck - Can it be Solved
This has turned into a really informative thread, especially for someone that is new to much of the machining world. Thank you all again.
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On Dec 21, 2024, at 8:25?AM, jmartin957 <jmartin957@...> via groups.io <jmartin957@...> wrote:
? Good advice. ?I agree that - in general - three jaw chucks are less accurate than four jaw chucks. ?It is important to note, however, that the question of accuracy is related not to the number of jaws but to the mechanism by which those jaws are actuated. ?
Almost all three jaw chucks are simple scroll chucks, in which all jaws can be moved simultaneously by a single pinion. ?Convenient and quick, but as stated they are usually off by several thousandths when new, and with wear can get worse. ?The great majority of four jaw chucks have each of the jaws controlled independently. ?Work held in one of these - even in an old and worn chuck - can be dialed in to run perfectly concentrically with the spindle. ?Less convenient and much slower, but for fine work much more accurate.
There are, however, some important exceptions to this.
There are three jaw scroll chucks of the Adjust-Tru type, in which the chuck body can be shifted slightly on the backplate after tightening on the workpiece. ?Convenient and quite accurate when used with workpieces of the same size, although they may require re-adjusting for different sized workpieces due to manufacturing inaccuracies in the scroll and to wear.
As noted, there are some four jaw scroll chucks around which are scroll chucks. ?Convenient and quick and hold a bit better than three jaw chucks, but subject to the same inaccuracies as all of the scroll chucks.
And then there are the combination chucks. ?I have an ancient Skinner combination chuck - four jaws that can be adjusted independently or that can be controlled simultaneously by a ring and pinion mechanism as can a scroll chuck. ?Once the jaws are individually adjusted, it will be reasonably accurate over a range of sizes. ?More common years ago, these are tough to find new these days.
Exceptions to every rule. On Dec 20, 2024, at 12:03 AM, rfmarchi1 via groups.io <rfmarchi@...> wrote:
?
First, try Bill's advice to disassemble and clean the chuck. Second, disabuse yourself of the mistaken notion held by most hobbyists that a three-jaw chuck is precise. Beginning apprentices used to be taught that a three jaw cannot be relied upon for precision.
That's why we have four jaw chucks that can be indicated to a within a few tenths, or precision ground collets, or turning between centers. A three jaw should be used so that all the diameters and faces of the job are turned without loosening the chuck. Everything
will be within the tolerances of the spindle. Once you remove the workpiece all bets are off. When you re-insert it into the chuck you just bought all the inaccuracies of the chuck. A good one might be within a few thousanths... A not so good one might be
.005 to .020 off. You pays your money and takes your chances...
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Re: Bad Chuck - Can it be Solved
Good advice. ?I agree that - in general - three jaw chucks are less accurate than four jaw chucks. ?It is important to note, however, that the question of accuracy is related not to the number of jaws but to the mechanism by which those jaws are actuated. ?
Almost all three jaw chucks are simple scroll chucks, in which all jaws can be moved simultaneously by a single pinion. ?Convenient and quick, but as stated they are usually off by several thousandths when new, and with wear can get worse. ?The great majority of four jaw chucks have each of the jaws controlled independently. ?Work held in one of these - even in an old and worn chuck - can be dialed in to run perfectly concentrically with the spindle. ?Less convenient and much slower, but for fine work much more accurate.
There are, however, some important exceptions to this.
There are three jaw scroll chucks of the Adjust-Tru type, in which the chuck body can be shifted slightly on the backplate after tightening on the workpiece. ?Convenient and quite accurate when used with workpieces of the same size, although they may require re-adjusting for different sized workpieces due to manufacturing inaccuracies in the scroll and to wear.
As noted, there are some four jaw scroll chucks around which are scroll chucks. ?Convenient and quick and hold a bit better than three jaw chucks, but subject to the same inaccuracies as all of the scroll chucks.
And then there are the combination chucks. ?I have an ancient Skinner combination chuck - four jaws that can be adjusted independently or that can be controlled simultaneously by a ring and pinion mechanism as can a scroll chuck. ?Once the jaws are individually adjusted, it will be reasonably accurate over a range of sizes. ?More common years ago, these are tough to find new these days.
Exceptions to every rule.
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Show quoted text
On Dec 20, 2024, at 12:03 AM, rfmarchi1 via groups.io <rfmarchi@...> wrote:
?
First, try Bill's advice to disassemble and clean the chuck. Second, disabuse yourself of the mistaken notion held by most hobbyists that a three-jaw chuck is precise. Beginning apprentices used to be taught that a three jaw cannot be relied upon for precision.
That's why we have four jaw chucks that can be indicated to a within a few tenths, or precision ground collets, or turning between centers. A three jaw should be used so that all the diameters and faces of the job are turned without loosening the chuck. Everything
will be within the tolerances of the spindle. Once you remove the workpiece all bets are off. When you re-insert it into the chuck you just bought all the inaccuracies of the chuck. A good one might be within a few thousanths... A not so good one might be
.005 to .020 off. You pays your money and takes your chances...
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shimming the saddle/carriage
Rebuilding this atlas of mine has been a steep learning curve but there is light at the end of the tunnel.? The shims that were on the carriage/saddle were 10 thou at the back and 17 thou on the front.? There was a lot of slop so decided to try and eliminate it.? I have ended up with no shims at the back and 12 thou at the front.? this has eliminated the slop down to between 1 and 2 thou both front and back and middle.? What is bothering me is that i have reduced the back by 10 thou and the front by half that amount so have i introduced twist in the saddle / carriage .? Also does the carriage need shims to protect surfaces.
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Re: Bad Chuck - Can it be Solved
First, try Bill's advice to disassemble and clean the chuck. Second, disabuse yourself of the mistaken notion held by most hobbyists that a three-jaw chuck is precise. Beginning apprentices used to be taught that a three jaw cannot be relied upon for precision.
That's why we have four jaw chucks that can be indicated to a within a few tenths, or precision ground collets, or turning between centers. A three jaw should be used so that all the diameters and faces of the job are turned without loosening the chuck. Everything
will be within the tolerances of the spindle. Once you remove the workpiece all bets are off. When you re-insert it into the chuck you just bought all the inaccuracies of the chuck. A good one might be within a few thousanths... A not so good one might be
.005 to .020 off. You pays your money and takes your chances...
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Re: Bad Chuck - Can it be Solved
Now you can afford to buy yourself a 4-jaw chuck, if you don't already have one, or possibly a collet chuck. Both are handy if you need better TIR than your 3-jaw will give you.?
?
Bill in OKC
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Re: Bad Chuck - Can it be Solved
Yay!?
Hoo Boy, there's a cautionary tale there about maintenance. I never have enough time to make stuff, but stories like this keep reminding me that I need to take the machines apart and clean them out more often.
Tim
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Re: Bad Chuck - Can it be Solved
On 12/19/24 14:30, Guy Edkins wrote: Hi all,
Great news. Tore down chuck completely. Ugly in there. Not
any more. Clean as a whistle. Greased. Carefully
reassembled. Viola! ?TIR is .0032! ?I am very pleased.
Thank you all for the help and advice. Glad to hear it!? Some chucks are fixable, and some are not. Glad yours was. Jon
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Re: Bad Chuck - Can it be Solved
Hi all,?
Great news. Tore down chuck completely. Ugly in there. Not any more. Clean as a whistle. Greased. Carefully reassembled. Viola! ?TIR is .0032! ?I am very pleased. Thank you all for the help and advice.?
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On Dec 19, 2024, at 12:51?PM, Jon Elson <elson@...> wrote:
?On 12/18/24 21:15, Guy Edkins wrote: do know the jaws are numbered and they only go in a
certain slot. The jaws have discernible numbers, but the
slots in the chuck only show where number 1 jaw goes. The
other two are at best, vague. When installing the jaws
sequentially into the scroll thread does # 1 go first
followed by #2, etc. or do they start at the same time? With all jaws out, crank the pinions until the outer scroll tooth approaches slot one.? Back off a bit.? Insert jaw #1, hold against the scroll and advance the pinion until it grabs jaw 1.? Advance pinion until scroll tooth approaches next slot, that is #2. Insert jaw # 2, repeat for next slot and jaw # 3.? Really, there is no need to have slots 2 and 3 numbered, they just follow after slot #1.? And, the only reason to have slot 1 marked is to make sure you have the jaws in the same slots they were in when the initial jaw grinding was done. Jon
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Bill Buckalew
Bill in OKC too
William Easby
Steven H