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Bill, it is easy to make a growler. take a standard transformer with a figure 8 core and cut out a "V" at the intersection of one of the uprights and the crossbar. This should turn the figure 8 into a

I used to do a lot of work for the city that I live outside of . Unfortunately sometimes that meant that I had to work on equipment at the sewer ponds & such . Onetime they had put in a new motor tin

I called Capitol Electric a couple of weeks ago. Talked to Mark. Said they didn't do DC motors anymore, and didn't know anyone in the area who still did. I guess the cheap import motors aren't worth

I already polished them, and had the motors reassembled, minus the brushes. The bigger motor works fine on the bench. Likewise the smaller motor. Maybe I won't worry about the contact cleaner on the

I've got caps from the tool post grinder that seem to fit well enough. Will be using that. But I want proper caps for long-term use. Not sure what the original caps are, just some sort of dark gray or

Bill, Just about any starter shop can growl them for you. As far as larger facilities go, in OKC, if Ron is still at Capitol Electric, tell him Jeff from Warfield and Chapman in Dallas said hello. All

Bill, they both look serviceable, as is. Really no need to polish, as there is minimal grooving. That said, I have seen some emery paper that is actually electrically conductive. Crocus cloth has a

Push comes to shove for testing a guy could make some caps that slide in the cap holes & hold them in with a hose clamp to test run the motor , animal

The commutator on an armature gets turned when it's clogged with carbon or badly scored. The segments of the commutator are copper, and were once upon a time separated by mica insulators. These are

I was able to do the work with a mildly abrasive (supposedly diamond) nail care "tool." I knew about how gummy copper is, and that the old machinists used milk as a lubricant when turning parts made

Is there a reason for turning the armature (clearly i have no idea about motors?)? ________________________________ Sent: Wednesday, September 6, 2023 12:23 PM To: [email protected]

Two hints on this topic. If you use an abrasive cloth like emery of rouge paper, be sure to thoroughly clean the surface when you’re finished. They contain some kind of binder wax that doesn’t get

I can't swear anyone else will be interested, but I will be! Somewhere around here I have a couple of digital microscopes, one kid's toy, and one "real" scientific tool from the 90's or maybe a bit

There may be shims under the bracket that holds the back gear shaft.? Changing these changes the amount of gear engagement of the back gears.? Also, there are supposed to be wave washers on the ends

A common problem is that the bushings in the pulley get worn when run without putting oil in the oil hole buried in the bottom of one of the pulley grooves. Jon

I was figuring that was probably the problem. It's been most of 50 years since I last played with the stuff. Been buying silicon carbide as much as possible since the 80's. Polished the commutators

If you look at the various abrasives under a microscope (electron) you can determine the shape. Silicon carbide is sharp for instance.? Rouge is almost round at least is when milled, about 250

My recollection is that emery grit is conductive and you don't want any missed particles shorting out commutator segments.? Just my memory from working on old DC motors, wind turbines, and electric

Since we’re on this subject, my back gear slips out under load. What do I adjust to keep the over-center lever in? Thanks. Jim

Check for missing shims on the back gear mounting bolts to the headstock. Atlas has .002 & .003 in parts book.