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Honest?, Other than wrong diameter, I’d use any of the following. 2011, 2024, 6061 or 7075. The first two might be a bit harder to get, but are free machining alloys. 6061 is available everywhere,

I am not saying that the countershaft (part # 701-021) in the 3990 lathe (under cabinet drive model) is the same as the countershaft in the earlier 10D and 10F models using countershaft L3-107 but

LoL. I copied the wrong link. ________________________________ Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 4:41 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Need

Andrei, I don't think those are big enough. The drawing calls for 4" and change diameter. A while ago, I broke a cast iron drive pulley for the table feed of a Hardinge TM mill while tearing it down

How do you get a 5" diameter pulley out of 2.5" stock? THAT is a trick I'd like to learn! I'm sorry, but my inner smart-aleck took over there for a moment. You'd need a minimum 5" diameter piece of

Here are two pieces. One to mess up on, and one to finish ?

Did you put the drawing in the files section for future use? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ *From:* exerpd+groupsio@... *Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2020,

I guess I should spark another debate.? If I do try to machine this pulley, any suggestions on what aluminum to use? -- *Bruce Varner*

One of the first responses to this thread was the suggestion to machine the needed pulley myself.? I am posting this response to that suggestion.? May end up building this.? Going to try and find

Unfortunately, we don’t have access to either of the original drawings. And I either don’t know or don’t remember where the member who drew the motor pulley drawing that we have got his

Hi Brad,?Just popped mine off for a photo.?It's a 3991, 12x36.?The countershaft has a spotface to accept the set screw that comes in at an angle.?The outboard end is keyed, that's where you would

Robert, This message is going back to my 10F. As I previously said, the tension between the high speed and low speed is markedly different. They are not close. As I said in my last message, I checked

Robert, There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it’s the 36” model, I just don’t know the numeric model number. Thanks, Brad

I forgot to add that I have approximately the same motor belt tension whether the belt is in the high speed or the low speed pulley grooves. Perhaps you don’t have an original motor pulley. Robert

Brad, et al, That is essentially the same experience that I’ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981. But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor

I have a 12” Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I’m not sure of the model number or the year. When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both

Or one could do what I did.? Replaced the motor with a dc motor and drive. Now when tapping I also have reverse.? Only time I need to change the belt position is when I am using a hole saw. I do

OK. As far as I can tell from the two or three photos that we have of it, the first version of the Atlas 618 and the Craftsman badged 3/8: bed 12” are a special case. There appears to be no options

I was not going to invest any more time on this list, but another member contacted me off list with a question and my interest was peaked so I will add what I Know to be true which may or may not be

Without reading all the other 42 responses I think you need to watch the chips coming off the material. As the cutting edge begins to dull the chips change their characteristics. If you watch the