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Dave has a good point. Plus you should be measuring end float when setting tapered roller bearings, not radial float. Tapered Roller Bearings are normally operated with a preload. The Atlas 10” and

Hay Carvel, thank you for those little snipets "Thumbs up!" Ken H in AZ

Hot Rodders of the early 50's could take them up to ~140 HP reliably with careful attention to building the bottom end up. There was a system of troughs the dippers on the rods ran in and a manifold

...and I'm sure a bunch of guys on this site would be happy to help you make space in your shop by taking all those pesky attachments off your hands! 8^) Bruce NJ

I have one of those in my 53 Chevy Advance Design truck. A marvel of Rube Goldberg style engineering. There is another intermediate style of shell bearing as used on my 47 Allis Chalmers tractor. It

I still have my father's mother's 1955 PG with the "Blue Flame Six"!?? Bill in Boulder CO USA

Yup. My patents had one of each. Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR Political Correctness is a Political Disease. Politicians and Diapers should be changed often and for the same reasons.

True but not the old Chevrolet "Splash and Hope" rod bearings! Pressure feed to them came only with the 235 CID "Powerglide" motor in the 50's.?? Bill in Boulder CO USA

Automotive and aircraft plain bearings also have pressurized lubrication.?Dave? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

The Atlas-built machine database (currently 89% Lathes) is in the Files section of /g/atlas-craftsman/ and click on Files and then on 12a Atlas-Craftsman-AA Machines Databases

Robert, you pose a very interesting question here. Other than basic conservationism on the part of customers and producers I do not see why! But then the basic design of our lathes was done in an era

From the photo of the left hand spindle bearing, your machine was obviously a Craftsman 101.07301 (built by Atlas for Sears from 1939 until mid-1957). The highest reported serial number is 030965. At

Some extracts from the Atlas MOLO for interest . . . . And on the tightening / loosening issue for sleeve bearings . . . Best regards, Carvel Sent: 25 January 2019 10:19 PM To:

There should be a thrust collar with set screw trapping the bearing against the pinned ring. I have not done it but I presume that the way to remove the bearing is to drive the pin from the primary

Thank you David. I thought I was missing something. I may try that. I've already tried holding the gear and giving little baby taps on the screw with a punch. And yes, I realized after I typed the

It's supposed to be a very close hand fit, but some of mine are (were) quite tight and needed a light touch with abrasive paper not to stick. Suggest gentle prying with a screwdriver using the collar

Thank you all. Can anyone who is familiar advise how the leadscrew drive gear is removed? It appears as though it should slide off, yet doesn't. there is a collar between the gear and the bearing,

Yes, I believe on the 10" lathe, at least, it was an extra-cost option. Model numbers like TH42 would indicate Timken bearings, horizontal-tensioning countershaft and 42" bed. Without the T, it would

Hi Don, A liberal application of either 10 or 20 beats the crap out of none! I like Mobil Vactra #2 for the ways. Dave

I don't think any "modern" lathes use plain bearings anymore. Tapered roller or sometimes angular contact ball bearings are it. Various grades of both, ranging from reasonable price to you must be