Re: countershaft bearings
Once you have part numbers you can order from anyone, anywhere. I am sure they have bearing shops in the UK. I was able to find such places in Turkey, Saudi Arabia, and Germany when I was in those countries.?
I wouldn't be surprised to find the correct bearings are obsolete. But there should be cross-reference charts that will help you find the the new versions.??
You're in the UK , so this should be familiar to you: https://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page12.html
It mentions that the Craftsman lathes (also made by Atlas) used oilite bearings rather that the cage bearing. Might find some parts info if you talk to Tony
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 12:23:02 PM CST, hedgesben via groups.io <hedgesben@...> wrote:
im in the uk so any part from America is mega money in shipping.? hence i was asking if anyone knew
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Re: countershaft bearings
im in the uk so any part from America is mega money in shipping.? hence i was asking if anyone knew
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Re: countershaft bearings
I think I'd call Clausing and see if they have the parts, or at least modern part numbers.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 12:13:11 PM CST, Jim F via groups.io <lacityjim2@...> wrote:
The part number in the picture is 9-108 and 9-109. You probably can find them at McMaster.?
On Feb 12, 2025, at 10:08?AM, Jim F <lacityjim2@...> wrote:
? Here is the parts manual for your machine. iwould of said needle bearing with out the outer race.? however i have seen them called roller cage
<Atlas Lathe 10F-Series Parts 10L-6 Rev4.pdf>
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Re: countershaft bearings
The part number in the picture is 9-108 and 9-109. You probably can find them at McMaster.?
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On Feb 12, 2025, at 10:08?AM, Jim F <lacityjim2@...> wrote:
? Here is the parts manual for your machine. iwould of said needle bearing with out the outer race.? however i have seen them called roller cage
<Atlas Lathe 10F-Series Parts 10L-6 Rev4.pdf>
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Re: countershaft bearings
Here is the parts manual for your machine.
iwould of said needle bearing with out the outer race.? however i have seen them called roller cage
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Re: countershaft bearings
iwould of said needle bearing with out the outer race.? however i have seen them called roller cage
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Re: countershaft bearings
Bronze, Oilite, ball or roller?
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On Feb 12, 2025, at 8:39 AM, hedgesben via groups.io <hedgesben@...> wrote:
? hi all, does anyone know or have any info about the countershaft bearings like size/make/number.? I cant seem to find them in the uk at all.?
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Re: countershaft bearings
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Re: countershaft bearings
What model is your lathe?
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On Feb 12, 2025, at 5:39?AM, hedgesben via groups.io <hedgesben@...> wrote:
? hi all, does anyone know or have any info about the countershaft bearings like size/make/number.? I cant seem to find them in the uk at all.?
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hi all, does anyone know or have any info about the countershaft bearings like size/make/number.? I cant seem to find them in the uk at all.?
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I have the ?same arrangement my 12" Craftsman 101.07403 standard change gear lathe. ?My compound handle got broken for reasons I'd rather not discuss right now. ?This feed screw now has the larger cross feed handle.?
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For me, its SOP to always have the compound set at 90* from the cross slide, parallel to the ways. ?With the carriage clamped for taking facing cuts, I can easily take a precise amount off by advancing the compound using the graduated index collar.
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For threading, my SOP is to also have the compound set as above. ?The first few passes are taken with the tool directly plunged into the work. ?Subsequent passes (for right hand threads) are taken with the compound advanced a few thousandths and the cross slide again plunged to increase the thread depth. ?For left hand threads, retract the compound. ?
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Proceed in this manner with advance and plunge until the required thread depth is obtained.
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?The advantage of this method is you're still putting most of the cutting on the tool bit's leading edge, but there's no confusing calculating to allow for the compound's 29.5* offset. ?(As if you could really set the compound to exactly 29.5*)?
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I first read about this setup in one of the British model engineering magazines, and after trying it, I won't do it any other way.?
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J Martin is right. Until you can get the correct handle, you may be able to eliminate the interference by setting the compound for 29 1/2 degrees, as you would for threading.
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On Sat, Feb 1, 2025 at 01:55 PM, jmartin957 <jmartin957@...> wrote:
The handle that you have on the compound is the one that belongs on the cross slide. ?The compound should have a similar handle except that it would be smaller and with two handles instead of the one. ?No idea where that extra handwheel came from.
thanks for that.? the handles i have are what the lathe came with although they have been changed at some point in its life as some of the handles are picadore (a british make) Looks like ill have to try and find a new handle.? ?
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The handle that you have on the compound is the one that belongs on the cross slide. ?The compound should have a similar handle except that it would be smaller and with two handles instead of the one. ?No idea where that extra handwheel came from.
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On Feb 1, 2025, at 7:57 AM, hedgesben via groups.io <hedgesben@...> wrote:
? There is something funny going on with my atlas.? when the top slide is inline with the cross slide the handles interfere with each other.? All the round handles are 4" in diameter so i havent put the wrong handle on as i have been rebuilding it.?
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All that is different is i put a different micrometer collar on that hasnt altered the length of anything.? even if it did it would still collide at a different spot.
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pics for reference
<IMG_20250201_122717920_HDR.jpg> <IMG_20250201_122723048_HDR.jpg>
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There is something funny going on with my atlas.? when the top slide is inline with the cross slide the handles interfere with each other.? All the round handles are 4" in diameter so i havent put the wrong handle on as i have been rebuilding it.?
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All that is different is i put a different micrometer collar on that hasnt altered the length of anything.? even if it did it would still collide at a different spot.
?
pics for reference
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Put the feed gear's tumbler reverse in the neutral position. That will disconnect the gearing from the spindle.
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?If your lathe has the lead screw reverser, loosen the banjo clamp bolt and drop the gear train out of mesh with the 32 tooth spindle gear. ?
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If this is done, and the other items mentioned above, there should be nothing holding the spindle from rotating. ?
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How was the lathe prepared for shipping? ?Crated, bolted to a pallet, or something else? ?
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I would say movers are notorious for handling machinery. ?They are not millwrights. ?
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Brilliant!
I had not even thought of the carriage lock with split nut engaged. But my other TS steps would have freed the spindle - Disengage gear train or set gear train in neutral would have freed the spindle.
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Glade I could help!
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Raymond
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Time for a simply logical approach?
The bearings don't magically....spontaneously....lock up.
Something is mechanically preventing movement.
( yes...before someone says it....I know rusted bearings are technically "something mechanical preventing movement".)
And....lastly...."brute force" is rarely the answer.
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Great logic from Mondosmetals. I didn't engage the lead screw gear chain when I prepped it for moving. However, one of the moving guys may have shifted one of the levers. The carriage lock is engaged because I didn't want it to be sliding around in shipping.
If the carriage is locked and the drive train for the power feed is also engaged, you have a locked spindle. Brilliant! I'll check it out the next time I'm at the house in Southern Maryland. If not, then relaxing the bearing preload and trying Jim's suggestion
of applying a fair amount of torque through the chuck on to the spindle also seems reasonable.
Thanks, guys.
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If Raymonds comments don’t work, chuck a large hex bolt in the chuck and use a breaker bar to force the chuck to move. ?It’s time to get this done. The timken bearings will be fine.?
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On Jan 26, 2025, at 3:58?AM, mondosmetals via groups.io <jwrey@...> wrote:
? Let me review this: The lathe is in a controlled dry environment, heated in winter cooled in summer.
Oil has been applied periodically while in storage for approximately 2 years.
I do not believe there would be any corrosion involved.
I also doubt any oil has dried to the point of creating a "glue" like consistency.
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Spindle pulley oil port screw is loose.
Back gear is not engaged.
Indexing pin is not engaged
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Is the gear train to the leadscrew engaged?
If so set Fwd-Neutral-Rev lever to Neutral position. Try turning the spindle
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Also: Check position of split nut and position of power cross feed knob. If either or both are engaged and gear train is in either Fwd or Rev position trying to turn the spindle will present resistance, and if both are engaged it may not turn at all.
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Still stuck? Remove the 32 tooth gear from the left end of the leadscrew and try again.
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Raymond
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Bill in OKC too
Jim F