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Re: OT-how to test and repair DC brushed motors.
Thanks Jeff! First photo, last two digits 82 is the motor we've been talking about mostly. #83 is the other motor. They don't look too bad to me. ;) I'm also having a wiring or relay problem... I can hear the relay click. Nothing else happens. There are also a couple of limit switches in there, and a pair of momentary contact switches that are the Up & Down buttons. . Could be wiring, relay (which I have replaced because the original relay has a cracked open case) or switches. Could simply be corrosion, as this thing sat in an unconditioned shed for most of 20 years. I've got some wet or dry silicon carbide paper, and flint paper, not sure I have aluminum oxide paper... Emery is aluminum oxide. Do you know why it shouldn't be used? Too coarse??
Got plenty of X-Acto knife blades, And I'm sure I could find a broken hacksaw blade. I mostly don't throw stuff like that away! I do not own a growler. Currently, doesn't look like I can afford one that I know works, either. ;) Funny thing, found a cheap ladies nail care file/buffer thing in drawer under my desktop. Think I'll be using that to polish the commutator. Just the couple of strokes I took with it made the segment I used it one nice and shiny! Got to drop all that and get us ready for her doctor's appointment this afternoon. More later! Bill in OKC |
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Re: OT-how to test and repair DC brushed motors.
MSC is also useless. Don't have brushes that fit at all, and don't seem to have brush covers at all. Don't carry Leeson motors, apparently, which may be why, these were used on Leeson motors.? All the 3D printed caps I saw were metric sizes, and these are old SAE/ANSI sizes. Might also have to do with why they're so hard to find parts for.? Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, September 3, 2023 at 02:32:33 PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
I have a armature lathe , a old " Trucut" & on small motors its probably faster to do the hacksaw trick . As far as the brush covers go , if Grainger has them I wonder if MSC does also . If MSC does have them? there may be a CAD drawing that ya can DL & try printing them on the 3d printer . I know they used to have cad drawings for their stuff , don't know about for these days . A quick google shows that folks? have printed covers/caps & put the files online .
animal On 9/3/23 11:59 AM, Bill in OKC too via
groups.io wrote:
H I'm also considering skimming both commutators, Just because I have them apart enough to do it easily. What I don't have is the special tooling to do that. Does not look like there is any mica to undercut. Have seen a ground hacksaw blade used Somebody stop me before I eBay again! ;P Never found the missing parts, so I'm headed out to the shop to see If I can make a couple of matching brass brush covers. The two Themac J-3 tool post grinders I wound up with both have more complex brush covers: One on the left is the other one of what I lost. The other two will screw down into the brush holders, but are slightly different in size. I'm going to try ordering some that should be the correct one from Grainger, where they're $2.29 each, which isn't bad, and I can pick them up so not pay shipping, but the earliest they could be here now is after 4PM on Friday. $4.98, so I went ahead and ordered them. The brushes, if I got them from Grainger would be $26.76 each. DC Motor sold them to me for $5.13 each. Probably should have asked if they had the brush caps, but didn't think of it then. ;) Got a package of 50 of the 8-32 kep-nuts from amazon for under $8 last weekend. I now have LOTS of spares! :) Bill in OKC |
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Re: OT-how to test and repair DC brushed motors.
Had to order brushes.??in Princeton, WV, is a good place for motor brushes, and you can search by size. Got 4 brushes, shipped, for about $30, and here in three days. Would have been faster if USPS hadn't lost the package for a day. First motor is running. Looks like I need to create a wiring diagram, and make sure the replacement relay I bought for it is the right one, because the controller isn't working, thought the motor spins on the bench.?
https://www.dcmotorparts.com/ I'm also considering skimming both commutators, though the one I've already seen doesn't look all that bad. Just because I have them apart enough to do it easily. What I don't have is the special tooling to do that. Does not look like there is any mica to undercut. Have seen a ground hacksaw blade used for that purpose, so don't know if I need the specialty tooling. And no idea how many more motors I might need to work on... Somebody stop me before I eBay again! ;P Never found the missing parts, so I'm headed out to the shop to see If I can make a couple of matching brass brush covers. The two Themac J-3 tool post grinders I wound up with both have more complex brush covers: One on the left is the other one of what I lost. The other two will screw down into the brush holders, but are slightly different in size. I'm going to try ordering some that should be the correct one from Grainger, where they're $2.29 each, which isn't bad, and I can pick them up so not pay shipping, but the earliest they could be here now is after 4PM on Friday. $4.98, so I went ahead and ordered them. The brushes, if I got them from Grainger would be $26.76 each. DC Motor sold them to me for $5.13 each. Probably should have asked if they had the brush caps, but didn't think of it then. ;) Got a package of 50 of the 8-32 kep-nuts from amazon for under $8 last weekend. I now have LOTS of spares! :) Bill in OKC |
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Re: Quick & Dirty Stub Shaft
I was picking through the stuff I found in the junk bin at school over a year ago, and found something that looked like it might be a 1-1/2-8 thread, grabbed my Atlas 5" chuck, which is about useless for anything but checking that size thread, and lo, and behold, it's a stub shaft that exactly matches my spindle! And I didn't make it! Looks a lot like the ones you pointed out. ;) It's a crazy world, but sometimes the crazy is in a good way!
Bill in OKC |
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Re: Craftsman lathe FS Reno Nv CL
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On Sep 1, 2023, at 5:41 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
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Re: Craftsman lathe FS Reno Nv CL
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On Sep 1, 2023, at 5:13 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
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Re: Clausing 8520 mill on auction
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Andre
In the Chicago area the Bridgeport mills can often be found cheaper than the Clausing. There are far fewer Clausing mills and they fit in a smaller space vertically and horizontally so their prices are inflated. The Bridgeport is a better mill but it wont fit in my garage so that is why I purchased the Clausing. I am a hobbyist. If I did this for a living I would not get anything smaller than a Bridgeport. John |
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Atlas MF Horizontal mill power feed
I know this is a shot in the dark, but does anyone have the factory drawing for the MF-1 Feed Gear Case that bolts to the cross slide? I will call Atlas next week and see if they have a copy.
What I need is the precise location of the centers of the two meshed gears that drive the gear on the table feed screw. Even better would be an undamaged MF-1 gear case with or without gears as I have a good set. This is all the result of being too smart for my own good, The sliding gear and shaft are a force fit. Trying to press them apart is will not turn out well. No matter how well you block it up you will damage the sliding gear shaft, the bushing it rides in and worst of all distorting the Gear Case. In hindsight, the trick is to cut the soft steel sliding gear shaft in two with a hacksaw just behind the gear. Then the shaft may be removed and the butt end with the gear pushed out with a hydraulic press. The shaft may be easily remade with a piece of 5/8" diameter leaded 1214L steel. Make the gear a sliding fit on the shaft and use Locktite shaft retaining compound to hold the plot together. Leave a note inside the housing saying to heat the gear to remove it. Rebore the bass bushing and make the new shaft a close running fit. Cheers from NC/USA |
Bill in OKC too
Bill Pendergrass
Brian Cayer
Chipbreaker13
Orlin