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Re: Tachometer for 12" Atlas

 

开云体育

??? While I haven't done it I understand that you can configure a bicycle speedometer to serve as a tachometer.? Bill in Boulder CO USA

On 2/14/19 11:31 AM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Kurt, often people want to see the spindle speed, for what ever reason.
I am looking at going to ELS () and I will need spindle speed
so Dan please keep us posted on what you come up with. I have a number of ideas and methods, none of which have been tried yet.

Ralph

On Thu, Feb 14, 2019 at 11:15 AM Kurt Sierens <ksierens@...> wrote:

Dan, I am sorry I don’t understand what this is needed for.? The speed is controlled by changing the belt, and each setting has a specific speed.

?

Kurt S.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dan and Marlene Coleman
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2019 10:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Tachometer for 12" Atlas

?

Any suggestions for a tachometer and mounting on an Atlas 12" lathe?
Dan Coleman


Re: Tachometer for 12" Atlas

 

开云体育

Ralph,

?

Ok, that makes more sense then.

?

Kurt S.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2019 1:31 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Tachometer for 12" Atlas

?

Kurt, often people want to see the spindle speed, for what ever reason.

I am looking at going to ELS () and I will need spindle speed

so Dan please keep us posted on what you come up with. I have a number of ideas and methods, none of which have been tried yet.

?

Ralph

?

On Thu, Feb 14, 2019 at 11:15 AM Kurt Sierens <ksierens@...> wrote:

Dan, I am sorry I don’t understand what this is needed for.? The speed is controlled by changing the belt, and each setting has a specific speed.

?

Kurt S.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dan and Marlene Coleman
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2019 10:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Tachometer for 12" Atlas

?

Any suggestions for a tachometer and mounting on an Atlas 12" lathe?
Dan Coleman


Re: Tachometer for 12" Atlas

 

Kurt, often people want to see the spindle speed, for what ever reason.
I am looking at going to ELS () and I will need spindle speed
so Dan please keep us posted on what you come up with. I have a number of ideas and methods, none of which have been tried yet.

Ralph


On Thu, Feb 14, 2019 at 11:15 AM Kurt Sierens <ksierens@...> wrote:

Dan, I am sorry I don’t understand what this is needed for.? The speed is controlled by changing the belt, and each setting has a specific speed.

?

Kurt S.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dan and Marlene Coleman
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2019 10:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Tachometer for 12" Atlas

?

Any suggestions for a tachometer and mounting on an Atlas 12" lathe?
Dan Coleman


Re: Threading Gear Confusion

 

开云体育

OK.? Still an appropriate photo, though.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of cwlathes
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2019 02:37
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

Robert – thanks for the correction

I was confusing things with the “sliding gear” on my QCGB version ,

?

Keep well,

?

Carvel

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Robert Downs via Groups.Io
Sent: 14 February 2019 03:03 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

The photo should explain things.? Thanks.

?

However, the 32T Spindle gear being as long as it is, is a holdover from the 9” and the 10 through 10E.? Sometimes the chart calls for the gear in the “A” position to be in the F position and sometimes in the B.? So it was necessary for the spindle gear to handle either case.? With the 10F, the compound Stud Gear is always mounted as shown in your photo, with the 32T gear in the B position and the 16T in F.? If Atlas had thought like GM and Ford and all of today’s computer builders, they would have changed the spindle gear and the length of the spindle to save a nickel.? :-)

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of cwlathes
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2019 14:41
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

Stan ,

?

Does this help ?

?

The “spindle” 32T gear is quite long , and can accommodate the 32/16T combination gear being mounted either way , either as a reduction or as an idler ?,

?

Regards,

?

Carvel

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: 12 February 2019 09:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

This is still all confusing, but I think it correctly dawned on me how
the double (compound?) gear that consists of two gears, a 32 and a 16 is
mounted on the 1/2" diameter shaft. Looking at the diagrams and table on
the heavy cast iron cover, it appears the 32 face, larger in diameter
than the 16 face, must be mounted closest to the headstock. The diagram
does not show a dotted or dashed circle to represent the 16 face and so
it must face away from the headstock. I think I now understand why they
list 16 in the "Spindle Stud Gear". I think they are just relating this
to the figures on the cast iron cover. So, it means there is no 16 tooth
gear on the tail end of the headstock spindle. It is the 16 tooth on the
double gear. My description may not be good. I could attach images, but
I think I understand it now.
Stan

On 2/12/2019 11:43 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Stan,

Each gear that can be mounted on the change gear bracket (AKA Banjo),
plus the Screw Gear which is the one in line with the lead screw, can
be mounted in either of two positions called F for Front (nearest the
operator) and B for Back (nearest the headstock or lead screw).? This
is true of the 10F models and all 12” models.? The first gear on the
Banjo when mounted in the B position meshes with the 32T part of the
Stud Gear.? When mounted in the F position, it meshes with the 16T
part of the stud gear. Which gives a 2:1 speed reduction.? Why they on
the threading charts called the Stud Gear the Spindle Stud Gear I have
no idea.? On the 10” it is driven by the 32T spindle gear? On the 12”
charts it is called the Compound Tumbler Gear.

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:24
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan

On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.

The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.

The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.

The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.

If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.


You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe


Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?

I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan


Atlas MF horizontal mill, power feed gears

 

j7g3j
if you go to u tube "ghostes" or "atlas milling machine" he has a good series on rebuilding MF.
jack


Re: Tachometer for 12" Atlas

 

开云体育

Dan, I am sorry I don’t understand what this is needed for. ?The speed is controlled by changing the belt, and each setting has a specific speed.

?

Kurt S.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dan and Marlene Coleman
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2019 10:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Tachometer for 12" Atlas

?

Any suggestions for a tachometer and mounting on an Atlas 12" lathe?
Dan Coleman


Tachometer for 12" Atlas

 

Any suggestions for a tachometer and mounting on an Atlas 12" lathe?
Dan Coleman


Re: Threading Gear Confusion

 

开云体育

Robert – thanks for the correction

I was confusing things with the “sliding gear” on my QCGB version ,

?

Keep well,

?

Carvel

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Robert Downs via Groups.Io
Sent: 14 February 2019 03:03 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

The photo should explain things.? Thanks.

?

However, the 32T Spindle gear being as long as it is, is a holdover from the 9” and the 10 through 10E.? Sometimes the chart calls for the gear in the “A” position to be in the F position and sometimes in the B.? So it was necessary for the spindle gear to handle either case.? With the 10F, the compound Stud Gear is always mounted as shown in your photo, with the 32T gear in the B position and the 16T in F.? If Atlas had thought like GM and Ford and all of today’s computer builders, they would have changed the spindle gear and the length of the spindle to save a nickel.? :-)

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of cwlathes
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2019 14:41
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

Stan ,

?

Does this help ?

?

The “spindle” 32T gear is quite long , and can accommodate the 32/16T combination gear being mounted either way , either as a reduction or as an idler ?,

?

Regards,

?

Carvel

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: 12 February 2019 09:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

This is still all confusing, but I think it correctly dawned on me how
the double (compound?) gear that consists of two gears, a 32 and a 16 is
mounted on the 1/2" diameter shaft. Looking at the diagrams and table on
the heavy cast iron cover, it appears the 32 face, larger in diameter
than the 16 face, must be mounted closest to the headstock. The diagram
does not show a dotted or dashed circle to represent the 16 face and so
it must face away from the headstock. I think I now understand why they
list 16 in the "Spindle Stud Gear". I think they are just relating this
to the figures on the cast iron cover. So, it means there is no 16 tooth
gear on the tail end of the headstock spindle. It is the 16 tooth on the
double gear. My description may not be good. I could attach images, but
I think I understand it now.
Stan

On 2/12/2019 11:43 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Stan,

Each gear that can be mounted on the change gear bracket (AKA Banjo),
plus the Screw Gear which is the one in line with the lead screw, can
be mounted in either of two positions called F for Front (nearest the
operator) and B for Back (nearest the headstock or lead screw).? This
is true of the 10F models and all 12” models.? The first gear on the
Banjo when mounted in the B position meshes with the 32T part of the
Stud Gear.? When mounted in the F position, it meshes with the 16T
part of the stud gear. Which gives a 2:1 speed reduction.? Why they on
the threading charts called the Stud Gear the Spindle Stud Gear I have
no idea.? On the 10” it is driven by the 32T spindle gear.? On the 12”
charts it is called the Compound Tumbler Gear.

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:24
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan

On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.

The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.

The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.

The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.

If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.


You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe


Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?

I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan


Re: Threading Gear Confusion

 

Thanks, Carvel. What you show is what I had finally realized by studying
the diagrams some more that are on the? cast iron cover. It may have
appeared I was doing some threading but not yet. I was just making sure
I have all the gears, and I now know I do. When I get to cutting some
threads I may have more questions then.
Stan


On 2/13/2019 1:40 PM, cwlathes wrote:

Stan ,

Does this help ?

The “spindle” 32T gear is quite long , and can accommodate the 32/16T
combination gear being mounted either way , either as a reduction or
as an idler ?,

Regards,

Carvel

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* 12 February 2019 09:34 PM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

This is still all confusing, but I think it correctly dawned on me how
the double (compound?) gear that consists of two gears, a 32 and a 16 is
mounted on the 1/2" diameter shaft. Looking at the diagrams and table on
the heavy cast iron cover, it appears the 32 face, larger in diameter
than the 16 face, must be mounted closest to the headstock. The diagram
does not show a dotted or dashed circle to represent the 16 face and so
it must face away from the headstock. I think I now understand why they
list 16 in the "Spindle Stud Gear". I think they are just relating this
to the figures on the cast iron cover. So, it means there is no 16 tooth
gear on the tail end of the headstock spindle. It is the 16 tooth on the
double gear. My description may not be good. I could attach images, but
I think I understand it now.
Stan

On 2/12/2019 11:43 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Stan,

Each gear that can be mounted on the change gear bracket (AKA Banjo),
plus the Screw Gear which is the one in line with the lead screw, can
be mounted in either of two positions called F for Front (nearest the
operator) and B for Back (nearest the headstock or lead screw).? This
is true of the 10F models and all 12” models.? The first gear on the
Banjo when mounted in the B position meshes with the 32T part of the
Stud Gear.? When mounted in the F position, it meshes with the 16T
part of the stud gear. Which gives a 2:1 speed reduction.? Why they on
the threading charts called the Stud Gear the Spindle Stud Gear I have
no idea.? On the 10” it is driven by the 32T spindle gear.? On the 12”
charts it is called the Compound Tumbler Gear.

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:24
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan

On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.

The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.

The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.

The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.

If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.


You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe


Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?

I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan


Re: Threading Gear Confusion

 

开云体育

The photo should explain things.? Thanks.

?

However, the 32T Spindle gear being as long as it is, is a holdover from the 9” and the 10 through 10E.? Sometimes the chart calls for the gear in the “A” position to be in the F position and sometimes in the B.? So it was necessary for the spindle gear to handle either case.? With the 10F, the compound Stud Gear is always mounted as shown in your photo, with the 32T gear in the B position and the 16T in F.? If Atlas had thought like GM and Ford and all of today’s computer builders, they would have changed the spindle gear and the length of the spindle to save a nickel.? :-)

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of cwlathes
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2019 14:41
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

Stan ,

?

Does this help ?

?

The “spindle” 32T gear is quite long , and can accommodate the 32/16T combination gear being mounted either way , either as a reduction or as an idler ?,

?

Regards,

?

Carvel

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: 12 February 2019 09:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

This is still all confusing, but I think it correctly dawned on me how
the double (compound?) gear that consists of two gears, a 32 and a 16 is
mounted on the 1/2" diameter shaft. Looking at the diagrams and table on
the heavy cast iron cover, it appears the 32 face, larger in diameter
than the 16 face, must be mounted closest to the headstock. The diagram
does not show a dotted or dashed circle to represent the 16 face and so
it must face away from the headstock. I think I now understand why they
list 16 in the "Spindle Stud Gear". I think they are just relating this
to the figures on the cast iron cover. So, it means there is no 16 tooth
gear on the tail end of the headstock spindle. It is the 16 tooth on the
double gear. My description may not be good. I could attach images, but
I think I understand it now.
Stan

On 2/12/2019 11:43 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Stan,

Each gear that can be mounted on the change gear bracket (AKA Banjo),
plus the Screw Gear which is the one in line with the lead screw, can
be mounted in either of two positions called F for Front (nearest the
operator) and B for Back (nearest the headstock or lead screw).? This
is true of the 10F models and all 12” models.? The first gear on the
Banjo when mounted in the B position meshes with the 32T part of the
Stud Gear.? When mounted in the F position, it meshes with the 16T
part of the stud gear. Which gives a 2:1 speed reduction.? Why they on
the threading charts called the Stud Gear the Spindle Stud Gear I have
no idea.? On the 10” it is driven by the 32T spindle gear.? On the 12”
charts it is called the Compound Tumbler Gear.

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:24
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan

On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.

The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.

The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.

The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.

If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.


You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe


Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?

I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan


Re: Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut

 

开云体育

Delrin cuts like butter, flies all over too.
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

开云体育

-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...>
Date: 2/13/19 16:35 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut

660/932 whatever you want to call it cuts like butter.?
HSS works great. Does kind of fly all over though!
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: "j7g3jj via Groups.Io" <oakservcs@...>
Date: 2/13/19 13:34 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut

I do not what his problem is. ?I machine 660 bronze on my 12" Atlas lathe all the time, and it's no big deal, not like aluminum bronze or the harder stuff.


Re: Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut

 

开云体育

660/932 whatever you want to call it cuts like butter.?
HSS works great. Does kind of fly all over though!
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: "j7g3jj via Groups.Io" <oakservcs@...>
Date: 2/13/19 13:34 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut

I do not what his problem is. ?I machine 660 bronze on my 12" Atlas lathe all the time, and it's no big deal, not like aluminum bronze or the harder stuff.


Re: Threading Gear Confusion

 

开云体育

Stan ,

?

Does this help ?

?

The “spindle” 32T gear is quite long , and can accommodate the 32/16T combination gear being mounted either way , either as a reduction or as an idler ?,

?

Regards,

?

Carvel

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: 12 February 2019 09:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

This is still all confusing, but I think it correctly dawned on me how
the double (compound?) gear that consists of two gears, a 32 and a 16 is
mounted on the 1/2" diameter shaft. Looking at the diagrams and table on
the heavy cast iron cover, it appears the 32 face, larger in diameter
than the 16 face, must be mounted closest to the headstock. The diagram
does not show a dotted or dashed circle to represent the 16 face and so
it must face away from the headstock. I think I now understand why they
list 16 in the "Spindle Stud Gear". I think they are just relating this
to the figures on the cast iron cover. So, it means there is no 16 tooth
gear on the tail end of the headstock spindle. It is the 16 tooth on the
double gear. My description may not be good. I could attach images, but
I think I understand it now.
Stan

On 2/12/2019 11:43 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Stan,

Each gear that can be mounted on the change gear bracket (AKA Banjo),
plus the Screw Gear which is the one in line with the lead screw, can
be mounted in either of two positions called F for Front (nearest the
operator) and B for Back (nearest the headstock or lead screw).? This
is true of the 10F models and all 12” models.? The first gear on the
Banjo when mounted in the B position meshes with the 32T part of the
Stud Gear.? When mounted in the F position, it meshes with the 16T
part of the stud gear. Which gives a 2:1 speed reduction.? Why they on
the threading charts called the Stud Gear the Spindle Stud Gear I have
no idea.? On the 10” it is driven by the 32T spindle gear.? On the 12”
charts it is called the Compound Tumbler Gear.

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:24
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan

On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.

The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.

The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.

The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.

If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.


You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe


Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?

I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan


Re: Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut

 

I do not what his problem is. ?I machine 660 bronze on my 12" Atlas lathe all the time, and it's no big deal, not like aluminum bronze or the harder stuff.


Re: Threading Gear Confusion

 

开云体育

Stan,

?

The only time that you would ever remove the 32T spindle gear would be as the second step in removing the spindle from the headstock.? And yes, there is never any 16T gear ever installed on the left end of the spindle.

?

The 10F (alone) has a hole drilled in the left end of the headstock below and slightly to the rear of the 32T spindle gear.? There is a shouldered stud installed in that hole.? The 32T/16T compound stud gear is mounted on that stud? with the 32T part in the B position.? The first gear on the Banjo meshes with the 32T gear if the chart says to put it in the B position and with the 16T gear if the chart says to put it in the F position.? The other position on the double keyed bushing would be occupied by either a spacer or another gear.?

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2019 13:34
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

?

This is still all confusing, but I think it correctly dawned on me how
the double (compound?) gear that consists of two gears, a 32 and a 16 is
mounted on the 1/2" diameter shaft. Looking at the diagrams and table on
the heavy cast iron cover, it appears the 32 face, larger in diameter
than the 16 face, must be mounted closest to the headstock. The diagram
does not show a dotted or dashed circle to represent the 16 face and so
it must face away from the headstock. I think I now understand why they
list 16 in the "Spindle Stud Gear". I think they are just relating this
to the figures on the cast iron cover. So, it means there is no 16 tooth
gear on the tail end of the headstock spindle. It is the 16 tooth on the
double gear. My description may not be good. I could attach images, but
I think I understand it now.
Stan

On 2/12/2019 11:43 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Stan,

Each gear that can be mounted on the change gear bracket (AKA Banjo),
plus the Screw Gear which is the one in line with the lead screw, can
be mounted in either of two positions called F for Front (nearest the
operator) and B for Back (nearest the headstock or lead screw).? This
is true of the 10F models and all 12” models.? The first gear on the
Banjo when mounted in the B position meshes with the 32T part of the
Stud Gear.? When mounted in the F position, it meshes with the 16T
part of the stud gear. Which gives a 2:1 speed reduction.? Why they on
the threading charts called the Stud Gear the Spindle Stud Gear I have
no idea.? On the 10” it is driven by the 32T spindle gear.? On the 12”
charts it is called the Compound Tumbler Gear.

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:24
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan

On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.

The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.

The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.

The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.

If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.


You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe


Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?

I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan


Re: Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut

 

开云体育


If it's a double, sorry.
Just a thought, if you're going to make bushings or ???. Various bronze alloys are readily available as hollow bar.
Only had one place match McMaster but $25.00. shipping!
1 3/4 × 3/4 × 13, 932 bronze went from $79.00 to a little over $210.00!! For the same thing.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: dpm100 <dpm100@...>
Date: 2/10/19 11:21 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut

I don't think brass would be my choice either.?
I'm in the process of making a set of tumbler gears for a Rockwell 11" lathe.?
932 bronze was actually cheaper than brass would have been.?
Kind of strange but McMaster had the best price, less than half of Alro!?
New shaft and bored levers straight and round.?
Couple pics.?
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device


Re: Atlas lathe capstan (rack & pinion) tailstock

 

Sure would like to see some detailed information on these mods, especially the capstan feed tailstock ram. ?I have some articles on how this was done to other lathes, but need to do some head scratching to apply this info to my Atlas.


Atlas MF horizontal mill, power feed gears

 

I am finally reassembling my Atlas MF horizontal mill, and am confused about how the Pick-O-Matic power feed gears are supposed to be assembled. ?

I have the OEM manual for this machine, but the drawings are really quite small, and I'm still confused.

Would anyone be able to post some good resolution pictures, and maybe some notes, about how this assembly is supposed to be arranged?

Thanks.


Re: Threading Gear Confusion

 

This is still all confusing, but I think it correctly dawned on me how
the double (compound?) gear that consists of two gears, a 32 and a 16 is
mounted on the 1/2" diameter shaft. Looking at the diagrams and table on
the heavy cast iron cover, it appears the 32 face, larger in diameter
than the 16 face, must be mounted closest to the headstock. The diagram
does not show a dotted or dashed circle to represent the 16 face and so
it must face away from the headstock. I think I now understand why they
list 16 in the "Spindle Stud Gear". I think they are just relating this
to the figures on the cast iron cover. So, it means there is no 16 tooth
gear on the tail end of the headstock spindle. It is the 16 tooth on the
double gear. My description may not be good. I could attach images, but
I think I understand it now.
Stan


On 2/12/2019 11:43 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:

Stan,

Each gear that can be mounted on the change gear bracket (AKA Banjo),
plus the Screw Gear which is the one in line with the lead screw, can
be mounted in either of two positions called F for Front (nearest the
operator) and B for Back (nearest the headstock or lead screw).? This
is true of the 10F models and all 12” models.? The first gear on the
Banjo when mounted in the B position meshes with the 32T part of the
Stud Gear.? When mounted in the F position, it meshes with the 16T
part of the stud gear. Which gives a 2:1 speed reduction.? Why they on
the threading charts called the Stud Gear the Spindle Stud Gear I have
no idea.? On the 10” it is driven by the 32T spindle gear.? On the 12”
charts it is called the Compound Tumbler Gear.

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:24
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan

On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:


Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.

The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.

The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.

The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.

If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.


You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F

Robert Downs

*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion

I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe


Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?

I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan


Re: Super lathe bench

 

How did you? discover a twist in the bed of your lathe. - By using a precision level, the kind you can tell if it is out of level by .0005 and is normally used to level machine tools.

In this case it is made by shars, but it is accurate, I had to calibrate it, that took a while and was tedious but in the end, I got it reading easily less then .001 over 8" as that is how long it is.

How I tested the level, I loosened one end of the lathe mounting, the tail stock end, then stuck a shim under the center so it was able to move where ever it wanted. The other end was snug but not tight.

I measured the level of the head stock end and shimmed it close to exact level. Next I took a measurement of level on the tail stock end.

Could that have put in there by tightening down the mounting bolts? not sure, it could have but when I mounted the lathe I did not see a difference from one end to the other, when I tightened it down I looked for indications it was being pulled forward or backward out of level back when I mounted it to the bench. As much as I could tell, there was no binding or twist put in to it due to the mounting on the bench.

After I leveled it, a lengthy process of tightening down one end then the other and taking measurements and shimming and doing this over again until I felt everything was in sync and the lathe bed was reading at .0005 or less in level from one end to the other, I called it good.

What I noticed, seemed to cut a little better when I take a long cut on a shaft, completely unscientific just seemed better.

What was the most noticeable difference though was how well and smooth the carriage and tail stock moved over the entire travel. Previously, when i lubed the bed so the carriage and the tail stock moved I thought it was fine. After I leveled the bed what I noticed was the travel seemed more smooth and the kind strange part was the lube seemed to stay in place better as if before it was being skinned off and after it seemed to last longer and be smoother for longer.

I think the slight twist was causing the lube to be skimmed off on one side? Not exactly sure though but the smooth operation and travel from one end to the other, even with very light lube such as WD40, it seemed smoother, yes that is my unscientific evaluation but I had this lathe for 8 yrs and use it almost every day to make small parts for my business, we are friends and I know it well. So my evaluation is subjective but my lathe IS SMOOTHER after leveling it, there is no doubt to me.

This was with the exact same oil I used and have been using, Mobil Vactra 2 Oil

I bought this level for my Enco 14x40 lathe that I'm still finishing up but since that is taking a while I decided to first use it on the little craftsman 12x36 to see if it would do any good to level it.

I totally recognize there will be many people who think going through this trouble on a craftsman lathe is a waste of time, my lathe made good parts before I leveled it, now it is still making good parts, just seems a bit smoother and feels a bit better.

~