Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
No, not sure.? Give them a call.? I talked to them twice, once before ordering and then again the next day after ordering.? Sure wanted to make sure you are successful.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 4:20:10 PM CST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Gary,
Andrei recommended the same kit. Do you know what grade of material it is?
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Gary,
Andrei recommended the same kit. Do you know what grade of material it is?
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Re: Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Forgot a couple pics last night but you figured it out.? I swing mine all the time.? Check a diameter, flip it up or down to check the face. Tap it around to get the face true and back to the diameter.? Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 1/19/19 08:41 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks everyone for the answers. I just went out and repositioned the tip back to vertical like yall suggested. Just forcing it to the desired position didn't seem right. I was worried about breaking it and the directions don't say anything about how to change the tip angle.??
So thank you for the answers. -Jody
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 1/18/19 8:46 PM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips Few more minutes.? As far as I know, they all swing. I use a test indicator 98% of the time unless I have a big offset in a 4 jaw.? If you're measuring, the angle of the point to the work is important, for the Interapid it's 8-10°. If you just need true, zero is zero as long as you don't have the point near perpendicular!
Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 1/18/19 20:10 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Hi Jody,? Used to have a Mitutoyo indicator a long time ago, don't remember the details but my oldest Interapid at work is pushing 40 years old. The point swivels probably 200°, just went and tried my new one in the basement! My dad had a Starrett Last Word with the "ratchet" but you could still swing it. Should be no worries.? Got some micrometer stop, DRO, indicator stuff to talk about but out of time today! Later, Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 1/18/19 17:22 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks Russ. I'll take a look at it.? I thought that might all I had to do but I was scared to force it.
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
On 01/19/2019 10:42 AM, Brad wrote:
Jon, I do have a Dremel like tool with a flexible shaft. I did
think about grinding in a setup similar to a toolpost grinder, but
i'm concerned about rigidity and messing up the taper. My thought
was that if the inside of the spindle was soft enough to get all
banged up, maybe it would be soft enough for a MT reamer. Similar
to this...
Well, the problem is that this reamer may not go in straight, if the
taper is fairly chewed up, as you indicate it might be.? The Dremel
grinding WILL assure the taper is perfectly concentric, but it is up
to you to make the taper have the correct angle, and doing it with
the compound it WILL be pretty "fiddly" to get it just right.? I
have done this a few times, it takes steady hands and a lot of
patience to get it adjusted in.
Jon
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Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator
Thanks for the compliment, Ralph.
I have wanted to go with the Touch DRO, but every time I look at Yuri's site I am intimidated buy how little I know about that stuff.
But since you are using it on your mill, maybe I can ask you for help when I get stuck? 
Bill
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:54:25 AM PST, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill, I really like how you mounted the DROs, probable the nicest looking that I have seen.
Have you looked at ?
It is a great free Android Tablet application to display DRO info.
I use it on my mill and will use it on my lathe once I have added DRO.
Ralph
On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 9:39 AM Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote: Thanks for the links. The 2nd one I might copy the way clamp design. Simple and little machining.? Not having a mill I need to keep my design simple. -Jody -------- Original message -------- From: William Nelson < wnnelson@...> Date: 1/18/19 1:21 AM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Carriage Stop and Indicator I've been wanting a nice mounting bracket for a micrometer head and a dial indicator. I made one from aluminum and it works ok on my Southbend 10k. I have the standard micrometer stop but it doesn't let me get close enough to the spindle when using collets. The narrower one I made for the micrometer gets me close. I've been wanting to make a better looking unit and came across these castings. These will take a little work but I think they look great. Perhaps they can be machined to fit the Atlas Craftsman lathes. I'm going to get 2 they are fairly inexpensive. You can also get them custom machined here.? Take a look at his drawing to see if they can be machined to fit your lathes.?
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Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator
Thanks Bill, I really like how you mounted the DROs, probable the nicest looking that I have seen.
Have you looked at ?
It is a great free Android Tablet application to display DRO info.
I use it on my mill and will use it on my lathe once I have added DRO.
Ralph
On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 9:39 AM Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote: Thanks for the links. The 2nd one I might copy the way clamp design. Simple and little machining.? Not having a mill I need to keep my design simple. -Jody -------- Original message -------- From: William Nelson < wnnelson@...> Date: 1/18/19 1:21 AM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Carriage Stop and Indicator I've been wanting a nice mounting bracket for a micrometer head and a dial indicator. I made one from aluminum and it works ok on my Southbend 10k. I have the standard micrometer stop but it doesn't let me get close enough to the spindle when using collets. The narrower one I made for the micrometer gets me close. I've been wanting to make a better looking unit and came across these castings. These will take a little work but I think they look great. Perhaps they can be machined to fit the Atlas Craftsman lathes. I'm going to get 2 they are fairly inexpensive. You can also get them custom machined here.? Take a look at his drawing to see if they can be machined to fit your lathes.?
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Brad, ? The Atlas spindles are not hardened.? Or at least the one in my 3996 (same as a 101.28990) is not.? And none of the catalogs claim that they are. ? As a practical matter, the only two ways to “fix” one in which the surface of the 3MT taper has gotten damaged are with a tapered reamer or with a taper attachment and boring bar.? Of the two, I would be inclined to trust the former over the latter.? ? If using a chucking (i.e., straight shank) tapered reamer, the first step would be to check and if necessary adjust the tailstock backset so that its axis and the spindle axis coincide.? Then you can use either an end mill holder of the proper diameter or a Jacobs style tailstock chuck, in either case mounted on a 2MT arbor, to hold the 3MT reamer.? And hope for the best. ? Robert Downs ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2019 08:59
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish? Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Or you could make your own.? I just got in this kit in last week.
With the temp in the garage, it may be several weeks before I can continue with it.? The first step is to make a stub duplicating the lathe spindle.? That has been finished.? When it warms up I will start the adapter side that will fit onto the spindle. The stub is used to check your cut 1.5-8 threads without having to remove it with the chuck and turn it around and try it on the spindle. I purchased a ER32 nut from shars so at least I don't have to worry about that.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 12:05:34 PM CST, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
Don't disagree with you, but the MT3-ER32 collet holder I got is still better than the chuck that came with either of my MT3-spindle lathes. The Asian chuck was good, at .003 inch TIR, while the much older and very worn Atlas chuck was about .014, IIRC. I milled the jaws, just for grins, and got it down to .007 inch TIR, which is better, but not good. Every now and again I consider milling them some more, and seeing if I can drill & tap them to use them for the base for soft jaws.
He makes new jaws for holding the soft jaws, which I'm not going to try just yet. Not sure I'm going to mill them again, either. Just considering it for now. I have a decent Asian 4-jaw chuck each for the Atlas & HF, and a bolt-on ER32 chuck for the HF. Once I have some spare money again, or if I find a couple chunks of steel appropriately sized, I may just make ER32 screw-on chucks similar to your drawing for both the Atlas and my "new" South Bend Heavy 10L. If I do ER32, I can share the ER 32 collets I now own. I think I have 10 Imperial collets, and 20 metric, and use the ER32 collet nuts from my MT2 & MT3-ER32 collet holders. The 10L has a 5C collet closer, tube, and nose-piece, and something like 3 or 4 usable collets, so I'm going to need to buy some of those, too. Gotta save the pennies for them. And I don't have any idea yet how good the 3-jaw for the 10L is. It will be a while getting refurbished enough for me to check the chuck.
Bill in OKC
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 11:47:56 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
I my opinion a collet chuck that screws on the spindle thread is a better way to go, You can use longer work pieces. Mine treads on the out side. The morse taper 3 chuck you have needs to be checked for run out. You can buy? MS reamers on e-bay at a good price if you need to they are good enough to clean up the taper.
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 12:28:06 PM EST, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
An ER32 chuck that threads onto the spindle threads would be much better than one using an morse taper adapter and it will preserve the ability to run longer stock through the spindle hole. The run out should be better too because you avoid the taper-induced
errors, if the morse taper is not cut well.
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad
What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller
in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with
the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not
sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck /
work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back
gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Don't disagree with you, but the MT3-ER32 collet holder I got is still better than the chuck that came with either of my MT3-spindle lathes. The Asian chuck was good, at .003 inch TIR, while the much older and very worn Atlas chuck was about .014, IIRC. I milled the jaws, just for grins, and got it down to .007 inch TIR, which is better, but not good. Every now and again I consider milling them some more, and seeing if I can drill & tap them to use them for the base for soft jaws.
He makes new jaws for holding the soft jaws, which I'm not going to try just yet. Not sure I'm going to mill them again, either. Just considering it for now. I have a decent Asian 4-jaw chuck each for the Atlas & HF, and a bolt-on ER32 chuck for the HF. Once I have some spare money again, or if I find a couple chunks of steel appropriately sized, I may just make ER32 screw-on chucks similar to your drawing for both the Atlas and my "new" South Bend Heavy 10L. If I do ER32, I can share the ER 32 collets I now own. I think I have 10 Imperial collets, and 20 metric, and use the ER32 collet nuts from my MT2 & MT3-ER32 collet holders. The 10L has a 5C collet closer, tube, and nose-piece, and something like 3 or 4 usable collets, so I'm going to need to buy some of those, too. Gotta save the pennies for them. And I don't have any idea yet how good the 3-jaw for the 10L is. It will be a while getting refurbished enough for me to check the chuck.
Bill in OKC
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 11:47:56 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
I my opinion a collet chuck that screws on the spindle thread is a better way to go, You can use longer work pieces. Mine treads on the out side. The morse taper 3 chuck you have needs to be checked for run out. You can buy? MS reamers on e-bay at a good price if you need to they are good enough to clean up the taper.
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 12:28:06 PM EST, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
An ER32 chuck that threads onto the spindle threads would be much better than one using an morse taper adapter and it will preserve the ability to run longer stock through the spindle hole. The run out should be better too because you avoid the taper-induced
errors, if the morse taper is not cut well.
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad
What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller
in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with
the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not
sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck /
work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back
gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
I my opinion a collet chuck that screws on the spindle thread is a better way to go, You can use longer work pieces. Mine treads on the out side. The morse taper 3 chuck you have needs to be checked for run out. You can buy? MS reamers on e-bay at a good price if you need to they are good enough to clean up the taper.
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 12:28:06 PM EST, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
An ER32 chuck that threads onto the spindle threads would be much better than one using an morse taper adapter and it will preserve the ability to run longer stock through the spindle hole. The run out should be better too because you avoid the taper-induced
errors, if the morse taper is not cut well.
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad
What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller
in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with
the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not
sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck /
work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back
gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
You can machine your own for 37 bucks. Here is a kit and instructions:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Guenther,
I like the drawing you provided. A threaded collet chuck that registers correctly on the spindle would definitely be my preference over a MT mounted chuck. I see a project in my future! But I still would like to get my taper sorted out.
Thanks,
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
An ER32 chuck that threads onto the spindle threads would be much better than one using an morse taper adapter and it will preserve the ability to run longer stock through the spindle hole. The run out should be better too because you avoid the taper-induced
errors, if the morse taper is not cut well.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad
What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller
in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with
the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not
sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck /
work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back
gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Brad, ? Suggest first identify exactly what the problem is with a strong flashlight and or video probe . . .?
The depending on the nature of the damage decide on the best way to remove . . .
The only problem / danger with the type of reamer you show for this type of situation is that it can “ride” on the high spots if damage is uneven and cut away on the opposite side resulting in an “oval” bore !
Let us know what you find . . . .
Carvel ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: 19 January 2019 06:42 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish ? Thanks for the quick responses. To address what I've heard so far...
Guenther and Bill, yes, it is pretty much exactly what Bill showed in the link. It's pretty much a collet chuck mounted on a MT3 taper, which inserts into the spindle. I'm pretty sure it's an asian import. It was definitely sub - $100. I can't remember exactly how much. I may have ordered it from MSC, but I don't exactly remember. I bought it last year but just got around to testing it out.?
Jon, I do have a Dremel like tool with a flexible shaft. I did think about grinding in a setup similar to a toolpost grinder, but i'm concerned about rigidity and messing up the taper. My thought was that if the inside of the spindle was soft enough to get all banged up, maybe it would be soft enough for a MT reamer. Similar to this...
I was wondering about whether the end of the male MT on the chuck was extending "beyond" the finished taper of the spindle, and into dead space inside the unfinished and non/tapered portion of the spindle. Does that make sense? The taper on the collet chuck is 3" exactly. It's hard to measure where the bad spots begin inside the spindle but it seems to be maybe around 2/12". Does anyone know the length of the finished MT in this spindle?
Thanks
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Brad:
I have reamed the spindle in my Atlas 10F with a finishing hand reamer, with good success.?
I bought a cheap roughing and finishing HSS MT-3 reamer set off E-bay for the job.
There were gouges in the spindle when I got the lathe, so first I took a Dremel with a mounted point and carefully removed the high spots only.??
I did not use the tail stock, but rather fed the reamer by hand.? ?The reamer had no problem seating itself during the reaming process without using the tail stock.
I reamed and reamed and reamed until it showed good on a blued dead center.? It took a lot at patience, and several hours to do it.? But it was a success in the end.
Bill
p.s.? Please let me know if you need the name of the reamer supplier and I'll try to find it.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 7:51:00 AM PST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Sorry Bill, I re-read your comment and see that you did provide the taper dimensions.?
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Guenther,
I like the drawing you provided. A threaded collet chuck that registers correctly on the spindle would definitely be my preference over a MT mounted chuck. I see a project in my future! But I still would like to get my taper sorted out.
Thanks,
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Thanks for the quick responses. To address what I've heard so far...
Guenther and Bill, yes, it is pretty much exactly what Bill showed in the link. It's pretty much a collet chuck mounted on a MT3 taper, which inserts into the spindle. I'm pretty sure it's an asian import. It was definitely sub - $100. I can't remember exactly how much. I may have ordered it from MSC, but I don't exactly remember. I bought it last year but just got around to testing it out.?
Jon, I do have a Dremel like tool with a flexible shaft. I did think about grinding in a setup similar to a toolpost grinder, but i'm concerned about rigidity and messing up the taper. My thought was that if the inside of the spindle was soft enough to get all banged up, maybe it would be soft enough for a MT reamer. Similar to this...
I was wondering about whether the end of the male MT on the chuck was extending "beyond" the finished taper of the spindle, and into dead space inside the unfinished and non/tapered portion of the spindle. Does that make sense? The taper on the collet chuck is 3" exactly. It's hard to measure where the bad spots begin inside the spindle but it seems to be maybe around 2/12". Does anyone know the length of the finished MT in this spindle?
Thanks
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Hi Brad ?If you have a 3 morse taper collet chuck for your ER32 collets you can clean up the 3MT with a 3MT reamer. ?I do not believe the spindle is hardened.
However, the better solution is to get a 1 1/2x8 spindle nose collet chuck for ER32 collets and thread this on your spindle. This will give you the ability to pass long stock through your spindle throat and part off only the portion you need from a 3 or 4 foot long piece of round stock.
Look for a lathe spindle nose collet chuck 1 1/2-8tpi and you will find examples.
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On Jan 19, 2019, at 8:09 AM, Guenther Paul < paulguenter@...> wrote: Brad What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad < nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
<ER-40 adaptor (1) (1).jpg>
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
On 01/19/2019 08:58 AM, Brad wrote: Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that
I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many
accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my
first lathe.
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked
up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had
previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it
runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with.
However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up
into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I
decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's
cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and
full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm
not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a
tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the
taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at
the front and back of the taper, consistent with high
spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck
run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would
the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and
solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also
tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with
the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still
not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are
Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in
tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a
HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Well, it is tricky. Do you have a Dremel, flex-shaft or similar tool? (Or, a toolpost grinder, but not so many home shops would have one.) First, set the angle of the compound to match the desired taper. You can use a dial test indicator to ride the taper with the compound slide, and adjust the compound swivel until the reading is as constant as you can get. Then, mount the grinder, and take a few passes back and forth while the spindle is rotating slowly. Now, use spotting dye to see how the contact with a known-good collet fits. Adjust the swivel in TINY increments to get the taper to match. You shouldn't have to take off a whole lot of material to fix this. Jon
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Bill Buckalew
Bill in OKC too