Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
I my opinion a collet chuck that screws on the spindle thread is a better way to go, You can use longer work pieces. Mine treads on the out side. The morse taper 3 chuck you have needs to be checked for run out. You can buy? MS reamers on e-bay at a good price if you need to they are good enough to clean up the taper.
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 12:28:06 PM EST, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
An ER32 chuck that threads onto the spindle threads would be much better than one using an morse taper adapter and it will preserve the ability to run longer stock through the spindle hole. The run out should be better too because you avoid the taper-induced
errors, if the morse taper is not cut well.
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad
What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller
in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with
the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not
sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck /
work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back
gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
You can machine your own for 37 bucks. Here is a kit and instructions:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Guenther,
I like the drawing you provided. A threaded collet chuck that registers correctly on the spindle would definitely be my preference over a MT mounted chuck. I see a project in my future! But I still would like to get my taper sorted out.
Thanks,
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
An ER32 chuck that threads onto the spindle threads would be much better than one using an morse taper adapter and it will preserve the ability to run longer stock through the spindle hole. The run out should be better too because you avoid the taper-induced
errors, if the morse taper is not cut well.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad
What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller
in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with
the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not
sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck /
work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back
gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Brad, ? Suggest first identify exactly what the problem is with a strong flashlight and or video probe . . .?
The depending on the nature of the damage decide on the best way to remove . . .
The only problem / danger with the type of reamer you show for this type of situation is that it can “ride” on the high spots if damage is uneven and cut away on the opposite side resulting in an “oval” bore !
Let us know what you find . . . .
Carvel ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: 19 January 2019 06:42 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish ? Thanks for the quick responses. To address what I've heard so far...
Guenther and Bill, yes, it is pretty much exactly what Bill showed in the link. It's pretty much a collet chuck mounted on a MT3 taper, which inserts into the spindle. I'm pretty sure it's an asian import. It was definitely sub - $100. I can't remember exactly how much. I may have ordered it from MSC, but I don't exactly remember. I bought it last year but just got around to testing it out.?
Jon, I do have a Dremel like tool with a flexible shaft. I did think about grinding in a setup similar to a toolpost grinder, but i'm concerned about rigidity and messing up the taper. My thought was that if the inside of the spindle was soft enough to get all banged up, maybe it would be soft enough for a MT reamer. Similar to this...
I was wondering about whether the end of the male MT on the chuck was extending "beyond" the finished taper of the spindle, and into dead space inside the unfinished and non/tapered portion of the spindle. Does that make sense? The taper on the collet chuck is 3" exactly. It's hard to measure where the bad spots begin inside the spindle but it seems to be maybe around 2/12". Does anyone know the length of the finished MT in this spindle?
Thanks
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Brad:
I have reamed the spindle in my Atlas 10F with a finishing hand reamer, with good success.?
I bought a cheap roughing and finishing HSS MT-3 reamer set off E-bay for the job.
There were gouges in the spindle when I got the lathe, so first I took a Dremel with a mounted point and carefully removed the high spots only.??
I did not use the tail stock, but rather fed the reamer by hand.? ?The reamer had no problem seating itself during the reaming process without using the tail stock.
I reamed and reamed and reamed until it showed good on a blued dead center.? It took a lot at patience, and several hours to do it.? But it was a success in the end.
Bill
p.s.? Please let me know if you need the name of the reamer supplier and I'll try to find it.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 7:51:00 AM PST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Sorry Bill, I re-read your comment and see that you did provide the taper dimensions.?
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Guenther,
I like the drawing you provided. A threaded collet chuck that registers correctly on the spindle would definitely be my preference over a MT mounted chuck. I see a project in my future! But I still would like to get my taper sorted out.
Thanks,
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Thanks for the quick responses. To address what I've heard so far...
Guenther and Bill, yes, it is pretty much exactly what Bill showed in the link. It's pretty much a collet chuck mounted on a MT3 taper, which inserts into the spindle. I'm pretty sure it's an asian import. It was definitely sub - $100. I can't remember exactly how much. I may have ordered it from MSC, but I don't exactly remember. I bought it last year but just got around to testing it out.?
Jon, I do have a Dremel like tool with a flexible shaft. I did think about grinding in a setup similar to a toolpost grinder, but i'm concerned about rigidity and messing up the taper. My thought was that if the inside of the spindle was soft enough to get all banged up, maybe it would be soft enough for a MT reamer. Similar to this...
I was wondering about whether the end of the male MT on the chuck was extending "beyond" the finished taper of the spindle, and into dead space inside the unfinished and non/tapered portion of the spindle. Does that make sense? The taper on the collet chuck is 3" exactly. It's hard to measure where the bad spots begin inside the spindle but it seems to be maybe around 2/12". Does anyone know the length of the finished MT in this spindle?
Thanks
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Hi Brad ?If you have a 3 morse taper collet chuck for your ER32 collets you can clean up the 3MT with a 3MT reamer. ?I do not believe the spindle is hardened.
However, the better solution is to get a 1 1/2x8 spindle nose collet chuck for ER32 collets and thread this on your spindle. This will give you the ability to pass long stock through your spindle throat and part off only the portion you need from a 3 or 4 foot long piece of round stock.
Look for a lathe spindle nose collet chuck 1 1/2-8tpi and you will find examples.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 19, 2019, at 8:09 AM, Guenther Paul < paulguenter@...> wrote: Brad What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad < nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
<ER-40 adaptor (1) (1).jpg>
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
On 01/19/2019 08:58 AM, Brad wrote: Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that
I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many
accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my
first lathe.
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked
up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had
previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it
runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with.
However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up
into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I
decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's
cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and
full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm
not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a
tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the
taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at
the front and back of the taper, consistent with high
spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck
run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would
the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and
solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also
tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with
the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still
not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are
Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in
tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a
HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Well, it is tricky. Do you have a Dremel, flex-shaft or similar tool? (Or, a toolpost grinder, but not so many home shops would have one.) First, set the angle of the compound to match the desired taper. You can use a dial test indicator to ride the taper with the compound slide, and adjust the compound swivel until the reading is as constant as you can get. Then, mount the grinder, and take a few passes back and forth while the spindle is rotating slowly. Now, use spotting dye to see how the contact with a known-good collet fits. Adjust the swivel in TINY increments to get the taper to match. You shouldn't have to take off a whole lot of material to fix this. Jon
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Do you know where the MT3 ER32 collet holder came from? Is it an Asian import, or of European or US manufacture? I have an Asian MT3-ER32 collet holder, and best I get from it is about .001 inch. That is better than I got with the Asian chuck that came on my Asian HF 7x10 lathe. IIRC, I get about the same runout in the Atlas TH42. My set was about $60, so I wasn't expecting a lot. The chuck was actually good, relatively speaking, with about .003 inch runout. For a 3-jaw chuck that isn't bad. For the Asian lathe, I bought and used a 13/16 inch reamer, and reamed out the nominal 19mm or 3/4 inch spindle through hole. The small end of a MT3 taper, according to the chart I just looked at is .78", just a bit over 3/4 inch. Yours is unlikely to be touching the back of the socket. The taper length is 3.88 inch, from the gage line to the end of the tool is 3.69 inch, and the depth of the socket hole is only supposed to be 3.31 inch drilled, and 3.25 inch reamed. Most of the data above is from page 910 in the 26th Edition Machinery's Handbook. If you can, measure how deep the MT socket is, and how deep you? have to go to get to the rough part. It may not be your spindle, in which case reaming it won't help a bit, and may make it worse if the MT3 shank then goes in far enough to touch that roughness.
HTH!
Bill in OKC
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Brad What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
|
Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
|
Re: Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks everyone for the answers. I just went out and repositioned the tip back to vertical like yall suggested. Just forcing it to the desired position didn't seem right. I was worried about breaking it and the directions don't say anything about how to change the tip angle.??
So thank you for the answers. -Jody
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 1/18/19 8:46 PM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips Few more minutes.? As far as I know, they all swing. I use a test indicator 98% of the time unless I have a big offset in a 4 jaw.? If you're measuring, the angle of the point to the work is important, for the Interapid it's 8-10°. If you just need true, zero is zero as long as you don't have the point near perpendicular!
Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 1/18/19 20:10 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Hi Jody,? Used to have a Mitutoyo indicator a long time ago, don't remember the details but my oldest Interapid at work is pushing 40 years old. The point swivels probably 200°, just went and tried my new one in the basement! My dad had a Starrett Last Word with the "ratchet" but you could still swing it. Should be no worries.? Got some micrometer stop, DRO, indicator stuff to talk about but out of time today! Later, Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 1/18/19 17:22 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks Russ. I'll take a look at it.? I thought that might all I had to do but I was scared to force it.
|
Craftsman 113.196591 motor
evenin folks the motor went out on my band saw & I have a spare
craftsman 113.196591 motor sittin in my shop that I had loaned a friend
, when he brought it back it was missin the cover plate with the
??? ??? wiring for 110/240 VAC I want to run it on 110 , any one have
one of these motors that still has the diagram ?
??? ??? tks
??? ??? animal
|
Re: Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Few more minutes.? As far as I know, they all swing. I use a test indicator 98% of the time unless I have a big offset in a 4 jaw.? If you're measuring, the angle of the point to the work is important, for the Interapid it's 8-10°. If you just need true, zero is zero as long as you don't have the point near perpendicular!
Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 1/18/19 20:10 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Hi Jody,? Used to have a Mitutoyo indicator a long time ago, don't remember the details but my oldest Interapid at work is pushing 40 years old. The point swivels probably 200°, just went and tried my new one in the basement! My dad had a Starrett Last Word with the "ratchet" but you could still swing it. Should be no worries.? Got some micrometer stop, DRO, indicator stuff to talk about but out of time today! Later, Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 1/18/19 17:22 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks Russ. I'll take a look at it.? I thought that might all I had to do but I was scared to force it.
|
Re: Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
The contact needle is replaceable
GP
On Friday, January 18, 2019, 9:10:34 PM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi Jody,? Used to have a Mitutoyo indicator a long time ago, don't remember the details but my oldest Interapid at work is pushing 40 years old. The point swivels probably 200°, just went and tried my new one in the basement! My dad had a Starrett Last Word with the "ratchet" but you could still swing it. Should be no worries.? Got some micrometer stop, DRO, indicator stuff to talk about but out of time today! Later, Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 1/18/19 17:22 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks Russ. I'll take a look at it.? I thought that might all I had to do but I was scared to force it.
|
Re: Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Hi Jody,? Used to have a Mitutoyo indicator a long time ago, don't remember the details but my oldest Interapid at work is pushing 40 years old. The point swivels probably 200°, just went and tried my new one in the basement! My dad had a Starrett Last Word with the "ratchet" but you could still swing it. Should be no worries.? Got some micrometer stop, DRO, indicator stuff to talk about but out of time today! Later, Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 1/18/19 17:22 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks Russ. I'll take a look at it.? I thought that might all I had to do but I was scared to force it.
|
Re: Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
yea I was in the same boat when that happened to 1 of mine took
it all apart & saw how they were built & figured that I could move the
point anywhere (within reason) I wanted to . so far so good
??? ??? animal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 1/18/2019 3:22 PM, Jody wrote: Thanks Russ.
I'll take a look at it.? I thought that might all I had to do but I
was scared to force it.
|
Bill Buckalew
Bill in OKC too