Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- Atlas-Craftsman
- Messages
Search
|
Introduction
Arthur Watters
Hi My Name is Arthur
I have a 12x36 Craftsman Lathe a Enco MillDrill Atlis 4x6 Horiz Vertical Band Saw I have had my shop for about 14 years I used to build race cars now I am retired and am gathering plans to build a Live steam Engine I like the idea of this group keep up the good work. Art ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
FYI
Well, OK. I have an Atlas model TH54. This is the
10" roller bearing model and change gears. I'm the second owner; bought it from the son, who was not interested, of the prior owner who had died. I also happen to have the parts list with exploded diagrams and outdated prices, bulletin 10L-2 (5/1947), a lubrication chart (no document number or date), bulletin T106L-1 on gear clearance (6/1945), mounting instructions (T10l-3, 2/1947) and leveling and mounting instructions (T106L-2, 7/1945). None of these have copyright information visible so can probably be put out for use. P.Isaac ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: First Published Article
Larry Landon
Metal wrote:
I wud like to get a copy of the article larry landon ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: First Published Article
Larry Landon
Metal wrote:
I would like to get a copy of it Larry Landon ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Intorduction
Really enjoying the topics so far on this list. I have
been using an Craftsman 6" lathe for about 5 years. Projects completed so far have been several small stationary engines and I am in the process of building the Falk locomotive featured in Live Steam. If anyone is interested, click on the following URL: it is my web site that shows several projects and a link to an Atlas page complete with some early catalog pages with prices (wish we could still buy at that price!). John Robertson Katy (Houston), TEXAS!!! -------------------- Visit Steam & Stuff ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
First Published Article
Ronald Thibault
I just had my first machining article published! It is an article
on how I made my lathe chip pan. It's in this months "Modeltec". Now I hope they pay me for it. :-) Ron Thibault North Augusta, SC USA <www.toast.net/~thibault> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: What do You have?
Jon Elson
Johnson, John wrote:
Hello everyone on Atlas_Craftsman!I used to have a 10" Atlas, originally with babbit bearings and change gears. I upgraded it to roller bearings and quick change. I recently traded up to a 12 x 36" Atlas/Craftsman, with quick change. I have a Phase-II knockoff of the Aloris-style toolpost (a real MUST) a Phase-II 8" adjustable 3-jaw chuck, a TheMac J-4 toolpost grinder, an ancient 4-jaw chuck, and a lot of assorted bits and pieces. I also have a follow rest and steady rest. I also have a Bridgeport mill (converted to CNC), a Roper-Whitney 5-ton punch, a 3' finger brake, and the ubiquitous 4 x 6" Hor/vert bandsaw. Jon ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Some parts recently replaced
John D.L. Johnson
When I purchased my 12"x36" Craftsman M/N 101.28990 (circa. 1975) last year,
I knew I would have to replace some parts. So far not too much. I found the Carriage Slide Nut P/N 537-041 was very worn, so I ordered one from Clausing for $40.00. The next parts I decided to make myself. One day I started hearing some squeaking from the change gears, so I did some investigating and found that some time before I purchased the lathe, both Change Gear Bushings P/N 9-70 had run dry and the inside surface was all scared up. These are pot metal parts that turn around a steel Sleeve P/N 9-73A. Apparently they must have gotten hot enough to melt the inside surface and the metal then re-hardened in a funny pattern. I also noticed that the Change Gears which these Bushings turn seemed to be rather loose on the Bushing. So I decided to make replacements for both with bronze. Here is how I did it. I started with solid 3/4" Bronze bearing stock. I turned this own to a close fit with the inside diameter of the Change Gears about 0.755". Each part is 1" long, so I made the two together. Then I center drilled the 2.250" bar and bored out the center to fit the Sleeves at about 0.500". OK, so far that was easy. Now to make the two wings that fit into the Change Gear keyway notches. I then milled a 3/16" keyway slot on opposite sides of the bushing stock 3/32" deep on the milling attachment. Then from some flat 1/4" Brass bar stock I machined two 3/16" key stock about 1/4" high and 2.250" long. Now to cut the bushing in half and down to two 1" pieces. This was done on the 4-jaw with a parting tool first and then just faced off to 1" long. The key stock was then cut into four pieces and silver soldered into place. On one piece I must have heated it up too high and got some deformation on the internal diameter. This was cleaned up with another light pass with the boring bar. Then back in the 4-jaw to bring the keys down to 1" length with the rest of the bushing. Now the keys stuck out too far to fit into the key ways on the gears, so back in the milling attachment for milling down to the right height to fit. And that was that. Now, since I still needed the power feed on both the lathe and milling attachment, I had to disassemble and reassemble each time I needed to check fit, so that was a pain, but with patience, I got the job done. Now I have bushings that will last, with a little oil, for 50 years! John D.L. Johnson California State University, Chico jjohnson@... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: What do You have?
Ronald Thibault
At 12:35 PM 1/6/99 EST, you wrote:
Marty-Gang; Marty already knows about my setup, but the rest of you may not. I have an old (60+ years) 12 X 24 Craftsman lathe with an Atlas roller bearing headstock. As John has it is also set on a steel office desk, which in turn is set directly (legs removed) on a course and a half of cinder blocks. On top of the desk is a chip pan covering most of the surface, made from two auto motive drip pans siamesed together. On top of this and under each foot is a 1/2 X 4 HRS bar running front to back to spread the load evenly across the factory steel channels that form the desk top's support. The lathe is then set on top of the bars. The cinder blocks raise the desk higher than when the legs were on, and position the lathe at a comfortable working height. My Web Page has a write up of my restoration (on going) of this lathe and a FQA on a variety of topics related to Atlas lathes. It also has articles on my two main hobbies R/C Warship Combat and building a 7.5" gauge live steam locomotive. Check them out you might find one of them interesting. <www.toast.net/~thibault> I hope to both help the members of this forum, and learn from them! My participation for the next week or so may be spotty. My new computer had to be returned for service, and my old (this one) computer has been acting up. Ron Thibault North Augusta, SC USA <www.toast.net/~thibault> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: Some parts recently replaced
Harry Wade
At 09:02 PM 1/6/99 -0800, you wrote:
all scared up. These are pot metal parts that turn around a steel Sleeve John, This is not likely, you would have seen smoke. However the potmetal, which is actually Zamak (zinc-aluminum) does scar or gall easily, and I have seen any number of die cast Zamak parts (not necessarily Atlas) which were mal-formed or incomplete due to cold flow in the mold. A combination of these two could make them appear as though they were melted. Regards, Harry Wade 10 x 36 and 6 x 18 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: Model 101.07300
Paul Baechler
On 1/5/99 19:20 Draff@... said:
Hi all:3/4 X 16 is the thread used on Taig and Sherline spindles; both firms offer 3 jaw chucks. Paul Baechler pbaechle@... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Thanks for the replys
John Kalina
开云体育Thanks to all that replied. The lathe I have is
about 12 to 18 inches long and I think it has about a 6 inch swing, but about 3
to 3.5 in are usable. As I have recently moved I still have it in storage so I
am going by memory. Paul, I do have a printer and I can un-zip? files.
?
Thanks, John??? jkalina@...
eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by |
|
Re: What do You have?
Martin A. Escarcega
Thanks for the reply, what are you going to use or did you use for the
framework? I think Ron Thibault (excuse the spelling please Ron!), (another user) did the same thing, he used a steel desk. I thought it was a good idea. But at this time I don't have one.... Marty ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 Cretedog@... wrote: Marty- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: What do You have?
Marty-
I have 12x36 presently mounted on old steel desk(like a teacher's desk) Works very well with the added benefit of storage already there for tooling. Am moving the lathe soon and just finshed a new bench with a single solid core door for a top. Don't believe a double is necessary. More important to have a solid and massive framework supporting the door(top) than to have 2 doors. John ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: What do You have?
Marty Escarcega
I have a Craftsman 12x36 M/N 101.28990 with: Stand, QC, MillingHi John, I recently acquired a Craftsman/Atlas 12x36" lathe. This was the lathe made before the "Commercial" Craftsman lathe. It has the roller bearing headstock vs. the old babbit bearing type. I'm a newbie, got great information and help from many of the users now here on the list. Hoping to get "intimate" with the lathe and tear it down and rebuild it. Got the parts manual from Clausing, as well as the Atlas Lathe Operations book. Its an excellent book in my opinion for new folks to the hobby and lathe. The old South Bend, How to Run a lathe is another excellent reference. I got some tooling with it and am working on the milling attachment, as it will probably have to suffice until I can afford a mill (not in the near future)... I am curious to know what kind of benches you folks have made for your lathes? I need to make one, and was thinking of doubling up a pair of solid core doors. I've also heard that steel stands are better. Also a concern about leveling up the lathe and bolting it down. Any thoughs or comments? Marty ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
What do You have?
Johnson, John
Hello everyone on Atlas_Craftsman!
I thought maybe we could all begin by telling each other what we have to get things rolling. I have a Craftsman 12x36 M/N 101.28990 with: Stand, QC, Milling Attachment, Buck 3-Jaw Chuck, Craftsman 4-jaw. I purchased it used last year form a friend in the Live Steam club who was getting on in years and has health problems. He kept his 6" Craftsman. He purchased it new at Sears in 1975-76. Still had the original operating manual and parts manual, which I now have. I can make copies of these if anyone needs them. I have since added a QC tool post. Made a big improvement in the work. OK, What do you have? John D.L. Johnson, MBA, C.G.C.M. Manager, University Printing Services California State University, Chico 400 W First St Chico, CA 95929-0275 (530) 898-5992 ext. 1 fax (530) 898-6824 jjohnson@... www.csuchico.edu/prnt ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Re: Need information
Ronald Thibault
At 11:38 PM 1/4/99 -0600, you wrote:
Hi, I have just recently bought a craftsman lathe, from a friend of mineand have been trying to scrape up some information about it. From the model number, 109.20630 It seems to be made by aa engineering. I believe I have all the change gears. There is a four jaw chuck and key but that's it. Is there any one out there that has a manual for this lathe that I could get a photo copy of? I would pay for expenses running off a copy and postage. I would also be interested in any other information such as years made, if any parts from other lathes fit etc. John; What size is the lathe? 6", 10", 12" ??? Ronald Thibault North Augusta, SC USA Builder Miinie #2 Captain R/C Combat Ship USS Arizona ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
|
Model 101.07300
Hi all:
About a year ago I rebuilt a 6" Craftsman lathe model number 101.07300 (believe this was made by Atlas). Its got all the threading gears (but no quickchange). Mounted it on a 4" slab of marble from an old laboratory (welded up a steel frame to fit). I've got a 4 jaw chuck but am looking for a 3 jaw chuck. My spindle is a 3/4 X 16 thread which seems to be unusual. Anyone else have the same size spindle or have a 3 jaw chuck available? Thanks in advance - Don Raff draff@... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroup home: Free Web-based e-mail groups by eGroups.com |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss