Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
Yea definitely try to stay on the work smarter , not harder gang?
.
I have several grinders & a few belt sanders .all setup with
different gritt's, I use my 6x48 belt sander almost exclusively ,
it can move a lot of material real quick while it also runs cooler
than any of my grinders , When it's grinder time I usually use the
grinder that has the white wheel , cut's nice , cut's cool also .
I have one of those nice Grizzly tool grinder's that I bought real
good many years back . Nice unit but as far as I'm concerned its a
kit grinder . So far I have stripped it all the way down to just
arbors? & worked on lapping everything on each side . The
trunions were atrocious . It still needs a bunch of work to be a
useful? to me grinder , I would like t find a affordable white
wheel for that machine someday? . I also have a few of those hand
crank grinders , two of them are in real nice shape & after I
make some reducing bushings for them they will find a spot on my
sharpening bench . I live off grid so if I can get my sharpening
done & save battery life for my turning??? I'm all for that .
If needed , which I usually the cast after the belt or grinder
wheel I have some Fiskar's diamond hones for the final tune .?? If
ya get the grinding /sharpening down , it sure make's the turning
part of the hobby much more satisfying / rewarding
On 4/29/25 8:16 PM, Bill in OKC too via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
HSS is high speed steel. Harder and tougher than High
Carbon Tool Steels, but doesn't take as good an edge. You
remember correctly on HSS replacing HCTS for a lot of uses,
and about when, too.?
Alox (gray) wheels work fine with either steel, but
coarse wheels leave deeper & wider scratches that can
weaken the edge. And if you grind parallel to the edge, the
edge may just break right off. Bad news when that happens.
Leaves a very rough surface.?
I have used mild steel to cut aluminum. It's not nearly
as hard or durable as either HSS or HCTS, but still harder
than most alloys of aluminum. Not recommended, but doable if
necessary. Can also be case hardened, to make it harder
right at a very thin edge, but if you can, real steel is
much preferable. Mild steel isn't really steel, just
non-fibrous iron. Has to have more carbon added to be actual
steel.?
Yes, I've done a lot of stupid, pointless stuff. ??
Took me nearly forever to find a lathe i could afford
when I found it. Longer still to figure out some of the
stuff I'd forgotten, and longer than that to actually learn
some of the smartest ways to do some things.?
Bill in OKC?
William
R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only reason I know anything is
because I've done it wrong enough times to START
to know better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate in the other. See
which one gets full first.
By HHS, do you mean High Carbon
Steel, High Speed Steel, or something else?
If it's HCS, you're right in that the
pink or white AlOx stones are preferred, although
you can go coarser than 80 grit.? The critical
thing there is to not let the steel get to where
it forms oxide colors or you've ruined its
temper.? Dipping in water before it gets that hot,
or running on a wet wheel, are the ways to go.
HSS may be treated differently.? You
can get it to a red heat without ruining it.? Most
importantly, you should never dip it in water to
cool it - even from a much lower heat.? The shock
of cooling it that quickly may induce microscopic
fractures at the cutting edge, which will cause
that edge to break down in use.
I started wood turning when carbon
steel tools were all that were available.? Many
turners ruined their tools by getting them too hot
in sharpening, which was a major reason behind the
switch to HSS tools.? But the carbon steel tools
have a smaller grain structure than HSS tools,
which allows them to take a sharper edge.? Not by
much, but sharper.? HSS will hold its edge longer.
For metalworking, HSS replaced carbon
steel very shortly after it was developed - very
early 1900's, IIRC.
For
sharpening HHS bits you should use a
pink vitrified stone 80grit will
remove the steel quick enough.? The
pink will wear but that only gets you
too sharper grit.? 120 is to fine and
slow to get the job done.? Remember
that slow just burns the HHS and
dulls/softens the metal.? Use only one
stone for sharpening.? Those grey hard
stones does not break down to get to
new gandules on the wheel.? Always use
a hand wet stone to polish the edge.?
I use a japanese water stone for
honing.? Do not use a gold waterstone
1200 grit, to soft and will rut the
stone.? One grinder for lathe tools,?
sorry but those cheap hard standard
stones do NOT work well for tooling.?
When I taught machine shop in high
school we had 2"X2" wood models
showing how each tool should look
like.? Big enough to see and help kids
learn angles.? Grind away grasshopper
On
Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 12:44?PM Bill in
OKC too via
<wmrmeyers= [email protected]>
wrote:
I have actually sharpened the
cheap brazed carbide tools. With
an Alox wheel. When I bought the
HF mini-lathe, I bought the sets
of brazed tools they had.
Noticed that the "cutting edge"
was not touching the material I
was trying to cut. The bottom
edge of the chip of carbide is
what was making contact. All I
had at the time was an alox
wheel, and it did reshape that
carbide chip. Probably not the
best grade of carbide...
Didn't find it satisfactory
even so, and had many adventures
trying to get that lathe to
produce good parts which led me
to join the Yahoo groups, and
finally takeca class that
convinced me it was the "stick
actuator" not the lathe that was
the problem. ?
Learned in my class to
measure things accurately, and
sharpen my own HSS tooling, and
that took care of my problems.
Not getting in a rush seems to
take care of everything else. ?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers,
MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to
live by:
Good judgement
comes from
experience.
Experience comes
from bad judgement.?
SEMPER
GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt,
and Overcome.
Physics doesn't
care about your
schedule.
The only reason I
know anything is
because I've done it
wrong enough times to
START to know better.
Expect
in one hand,
expectorate in the
other. See which
one gets full
first.
Grinding
your own cutters will
teach you a lot about
different clearance
and rake angles,
chipbreaker grooves,
form tools, etc.? I
think that over many
years I have only
bought a box or two of
new HSS bits - most
have come from flea
markets, garage sales
and the like.? Nothing
wrong with used HSS
bits - they may not be
the very latest
alloys, but should
work fine for you.?
And someone else has
already done the
shaping.
In my 6"
Atlas, I use two
homemade four-way tool
blocks, made to hold
3/8" bits at center
height.? Takes only a
few seconds to rotate
the blocks to use a
different bit, only a
few seconds more to
switch the blocks.? So
I've got up to eight
different cutters
ready to go.? Usually
no need to perfectly
align the cutters
perpendicularly to the
lathe axis, even with
parting tools.?
Eyeball is good
enough.? More rigid
than a quick change
tool post.
In my 13"
Standard Modern, I use
a wedge-type quick
change tool post -
which is what I got it
with.? Carbide insert
toolholders more often
than HSS, but not
always.? Parting tools
are HSS.? Many of my
carbide insert
toolholders are those
from very large lathes
- 1-1/4" or 1-1/2"
square, which I
dovetailed to fit the
QCTP.
You can
sharpen carbide on a
bench grinder, using a
green silicon carbide
wheel.? I don't bother
sharpening carbide
inserts, but do touch
up brazed carbide
tools when necessary.?
The green wheels do
not get carbide razor
sharp, though.?
Diamond wheels are
better.
Carbide
tooling is a handy
thing to have on
occasion, particularly
when turning hard
steels that would
quickly dull HSS.?
Although you can run
it at a high speed,
you don't have to.?
Cutting internal
threads in
pre-hardened 4140, I
used carbide threading
inserts.? You can bet
that I didn't run them
at the speed that they
would have tolerated.?
And you can bet that
they gave me a perfect
thread profile, and
pass a go/no go gauge
test..
You'll
probably want some
carbide, but HSS bits
will meet most of your
needs.? And don't
throw out the lantern
tool post if you got
one with your lathe -
you won't often need
it, but there are
times when you will.
On Tuesday,
April 29, 2025 at
07:43:15 AM EDT,
Kevin B. via <appskrb= [email protected]>
wrote:
Hi Lee,
I have a
similar set,?
I think you'll
find that some
of those for
larger tooling
are? a little
overkill for
these
machines. I
just about
only use 3/8?
and 1/4"? HSS
bits.? If you
use the?
knurling
tool as is ,
chuck material
as close to
the chuck as
you can, and
use a center
if you can...
it puts a lot
of load on
these
machines. I
took the
wheels off
mine and made
a scissors
action. ?
Parting: can
increase your
heart rate.
Really,
really, really
sharpen the
blade, I use
the small
diamond stick
thingies.
(think like
fingernail
file) and lots
and lots of
cutting oil
and with the
parting tool
sticking out
only the
amount you
need. May the
force be with
you.
?
HHS bits:
Yep, never
hurts to learn
how to grind
them. If you
want to
practice that
I'd try
starting with
1/4", it's a
little faster
and? less
material to
remove. You do
need a grinder
and sharp
wheel. If you
need a
grinder, I'd
go 8".
mrpete22 has
lots and lots
of how to
videos.?
blondiehacks
is good too.
But, while
your mastering
your grinding
skills, you
might think
about HSS
inserts. Skip
the carbide.
carbide wants
speed and
rigidity. (my
friends told
me to get em
too... NG).??
HHS inserts
you can
sharpen,
unlike
carbide.?
Little Machine
shop sells
them I
believe.
?
My $.02
?
Enjoy
?
Kevin B.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
HSS is high speed steel. Harder and tougher than High Carbon Tool Steels, but doesn't take as good an edge. You remember correctly on HSS replacing HCTS for a lot of uses, and about when, too.?
Alox (gray) wheels work fine with either steel, but coarse wheels leave deeper & wider scratches that can weaken the edge. And if you grind parallel to the edge, the edge may just break right off. Bad news when that happens. Leaves a very rough surface.?
I have used mild steel to cut aluminum. It's not nearly as hard or durable as either HSS or HCTS, but still harder than most alloys of aluminum. Not recommended, but doable if necessary. Can also be case hardened, to make it harder right at a very thin edge, but if you can, real steel is much preferable. Mild steel isn't really steel, just non-fibrous iron. Has to have more carbon added to be actual steel.?
Yes, I've done a lot of stupid, pointless stuff. ??
Took me nearly forever to find a lathe i could afford when I found it. Longer still to figure out some of the stuff I'd forgotten, and longer than that to actually learn some of the smartest ways to do some things.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 09:40:25 PM CDT, jmartin957 <jmartin957@...> via groups.io <jmartin957@...> wrote:
By HHS, do you mean High Carbon Steel, High Speed Steel, or something else?
If it's HCS, you're right in that the pink or white AlOx stones are preferred, although you can go coarser than 80 grit.? The critical thing there is to not let the steel get to where it forms oxide colors or you've ruined its temper.? Dipping in water before it gets that hot, or running on a wet wheel, are the ways to go.
HSS may be treated differently.? You can get it to a red heat without ruining it.? Most importantly, you should never dip it in water to cool it - even from a much lower heat.? The shock of cooling it that quickly may induce microscopic fractures at the cutting edge, which will cause that edge to break down in use.
I started wood turning when carbon steel tools were all that were available.? Many turners ruined their tools by getting them too hot in sharpening, which was a major reason behind the switch to HSS tools.? But the carbon steel tools have a smaller grain structure than HSS tools, which allows them to take a sharper edge.? Not by much, but sharper.? HSS will hold its edge longer.
For metalworking, HSS replaced carbon steel very shortly after it was developed - very early 1900's, IIRC.
For sharpening HHS bits you should use a pink vitrified stone 80grit will remove the steel quick enough.? The pink will wear but that only gets you too sharper grit.? 120 is to fine and slow to get the job done.? Remember that slow just burns the HHS and dulls/softens the metal.? Use only one stone for sharpening.? Those grey hard stones does not break down to get to new gandules on the wheel.? Always use a hand wet stone to polish the edge.? I use a japanese water stone for honing.? Do not use a gold waterstone 1200 grit, to soft and will rut the stone.? One grinder for lathe tools,? sorry but those cheap hard standard stones do NOT work well for tooling.? When I taught machine shop in high school we had 2"X2" wood models showing how each tool should look like.? Big enough to see and help kids learn angles.? Grind away grasshopper
On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 12:44?PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers= [email protected]> wrote: I have actually sharpened the cheap brazed carbide tools. With an Alox wheel. When I bought the HF mini-lathe, I bought the sets of brazed tools they had. Noticed that the "cutting edge" was not touching the material I was trying to cut. The bottom edge of the chip of carbide is what was making contact. All I had at the time was an alox wheel, and it did reshape that carbide chip. Probably not the best grade of carbide...
Didn't find it satisfactory even so, and had many adventures trying to get that lathe to produce good parts which led me to join the Yahoo groups, and finally takeca class that convinced me it was the "stick actuator" not the lathe that was the problem. ?
Learned in my class to measure things accurately, and sharpen my own HSS tooling, and that took care of my problems. Not getting in a rush seems to take care of everything else. ?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
Grinding your own cutters will teach you a lot about different clearance and rake angles, chipbreaker grooves, form tools, etc.? I think that over many years I have only bought a box or two of new HSS bits - most have come from flea markets, garage sales and the like.? Nothing wrong with used HSS bits - they may not be the very latest alloys, but should work fine for you.? And someone else has already done the shaping.
In my 6" Atlas, I use two homemade four-way tool blocks, made to hold 3/8" bits at center height.? Takes only a few seconds to rotate the blocks to use a different bit, only a few seconds more to switch the blocks.? So I've got up to eight different cutters ready to go.? Usually no need to perfectly align the cutters perpendicularly to the lathe axis, even with parting tools.? Eyeball is good enough.? More rigid than a quick change tool post.
In my 13" Standard Modern, I use a wedge-type quick change tool post - which is what I got it with.? Carbide insert toolholders more often than HSS, but not always.? Parting tools are HSS.? Many of my carbide insert toolholders are those from very large lathes - 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" square, which I dovetailed to fit the QCTP.
You can sharpen carbide on a bench grinder, using a green silicon carbide wheel.? I don't bother sharpening carbide inserts, but do touch up brazed carbide tools when necessary.? The green wheels do not get carbide razor sharp, though.? Diamond wheels are better.
Carbide tooling is a handy thing to have on occasion, particularly when turning hard steels that would quickly dull HSS.? Although you can run it at a high speed, you don't have to.? Cutting internal threads in pre-hardened 4140, I used carbide threading inserts.? You can bet that I didn't run them at the speed that they would have tolerated.? And you can bet that they gave me a perfect thread profile, and pass a go/no go gauge test..
You'll probably want some carbide, but HSS bits will meet most of your needs.? And don't throw out the lantern tool post if you got one with your lathe - you won't often need it, but there are times when you will.
On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 07:43:15 AM EDT, Kevin B. via <appskrb= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Lee,
I have a similar set,? I think you'll find that some of those for larger tooling are? a little overkill for these machines. I just about only use 3/8? and 1/4"? HSS bits.? If you use the?
knurling tool as is , chuck material as close to the chuck as you can, and use a center if you can... it puts a lot of load on these machines. I took the wheels off mine and made a scissors action. ? Parting: can increase your heart rate. Really, really, really sharpen the blade, I use the small diamond stick thingies. (think like fingernail file) and lots and lots of cutting oil and with the parting tool sticking out only the amount you need. May the force be with you.
?
HHS bits: Yep, never hurts to learn how to grind them. If you want to practice that I'd try starting with 1/4", it's a little faster and? less material to remove. You do need a grinder and sharp wheel. If you need a grinder, I'd go 8". mrpete22 has lots and lots of how to videos.? blondiehacks is good too. But, while your mastering your grinding skills, you might think about HSS inserts. Skip the carbide. carbide wants speed and rigidity. (my friends told me to get em too... NG).?? HHS inserts you can sharpen, unlike carbide.? Little Machine shop sells them I believe.
?
My $.02
?
Enjoy
?
Kevin B.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
By HHS, do you mean High Carbon Steel, High Speed Steel, or something else?
If it's HCS, you're right in that the pink or white AlOx stones are preferred, although you can go coarser than 80 grit.? The critical thing there is to not let the steel get to where it forms oxide colors or you've ruined its temper.? Dipping in water before it gets that hot, or running on a wet wheel, are the ways to go.
HSS may be treated differently.? You can get it to a red heat without ruining it.? Most importantly, you should never dip it in water to cool it - even from a much lower heat.? The shock of cooling it that quickly may induce microscopic fractures at the cutting edge, which will cause that edge to break down in use.
I started wood turning when carbon steel tools were all that were available.? Many turners ruined their tools by getting them too hot in sharpening, which was a major reason behind the switch to HSS tools.? But the carbon steel tools have a smaller grain structure than HSS tools, which allows them to take a sharper edge.? Not by much, but sharper.? HSS will hold its edge longer.
For metalworking, HSS replaced carbon steel very shortly after it was developed - very early 1900's, IIRC.
For sharpening HHS bits you should use a pink vitrified stone 80grit will remove the steel quick enough.? The pink will wear but that only gets you too sharper grit.? 120 is to fine and slow to get the job done.? Remember that slow just burns the HHS and dulls/softens the metal.? Use only one stone for sharpening.? Those grey hard stones does not break down to get to new gandules on the wheel.? Always use a hand wet stone to polish the edge.? I use a japanese water stone for honing.? Do not use a gold waterstone 1200 grit, to soft and will rut the stone.? One grinder for lathe tools,? sorry but those cheap hard standard stones do NOT work well for tooling.? When I taught machine shop in high school we had 2"X2" wood models showing how each tool should look like.? Big enough to see and help kids learn angles.? Grind away grasshopper
On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 12:44?PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers= [email protected]> wrote: I have actually sharpened the cheap brazed carbide tools. With an Alox wheel. When I bought the HF mini-lathe, I bought the sets of brazed tools they had. Noticed that the "cutting edge" was not touching the material I was trying to cut. The bottom edge of the chip of carbide is what was making contact. All I had at the time was an alox wheel, and it did reshape that carbide chip. Probably not the best grade of carbide...
Didn't find it satisfactory even so, and had many adventures trying to get that lathe to produce good parts which led me to join the Yahoo groups, and finally takeca class that convinced me it was the "stick actuator" not the lathe that was the problem. ?
Learned in my class to measure things accurately, and sharpen my own HSS tooling, and that took care of my problems. Not getting in a rush seems to take care of everything else. ?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
Grinding your own cutters will teach you a lot about different clearance and rake angles, chipbreaker grooves, form tools, etc.? I think that over many years I have only bought a box or two of new HSS bits - most have come from flea markets, garage sales and the like.? Nothing wrong with used HSS bits - they may not be the very latest alloys, but should work fine for you.? And someone else has already done the shaping.
In my 6" Atlas, I use two homemade four-way tool blocks, made to hold 3/8" bits at center height.? Takes only a few seconds to rotate the blocks to use a different bit, only a few seconds more to switch the blocks.? So I've got up to eight different cutters ready to go.? Usually no need to perfectly align the cutters perpendicularly to the lathe axis, even with parting tools.? Eyeball is good enough.? More rigid than a quick change tool post.
In my 13" Standard Modern, I use a wedge-type quick change tool post - which is what I got it with.? Carbide insert toolholders more often than HSS, but not always.? Parting tools are HSS.? Many of my carbide insert toolholders are those from very large lathes - 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" square, which I dovetailed to fit the QCTP.
You can sharpen carbide on a bench grinder, using a green silicon carbide wheel.? I don't bother sharpening carbide inserts, but do touch up brazed carbide tools when necessary.? The green wheels do not get carbide razor sharp, though.? Diamond wheels are better.
Carbide tooling is a handy thing to have on occasion, particularly when turning hard steels that would quickly dull HSS.? Although you can run it at a high speed, you don't have to.? Cutting internal threads in pre-hardened 4140, I used carbide threading inserts.? You can bet that I didn't run them at the speed that they would have tolerated.? And you can bet that they gave me a perfect thread profile, and pass a go/no go gauge test..
You'll probably want some carbide, but HSS bits will meet most of your needs.? And don't throw out the lantern tool post if you got one with your lathe - you won't often need it, but there are times when you will.
On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 07:43:15 AM EDT, Kevin B. via <appskrb= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Lee,
I have a similar set,? I think you'll find that some of those for larger tooling are? a little overkill for these machines. I just about only use 3/8? and 1/4"? HSS bits.? If you use the?
knurling tool as is , chuck material as close to the chuck as you can, and use a center if you can... it puts a lot of load on these machines. I took the wheels off mine and made a scissors action. ? Parting: can increase your heart rate. Really, really, really sharpen the blade, I use the small diamond stick thingies. (think like fingernail file) and lots and lots of cutting oil and with the parting tool sticking out only the amount you need. May the force be with you.
?
HHS bits: Yep, never hurts to learn how to grind them. If you want to practice that I'd try starting with 1/4", it's a little faster and? less material to remove. You do need a grinder and sharp wheel. If you need a grinder, I'd go 8". mrpete22 has lots and lots of how to videos.? blondiehacks is good too. But, while your mastering your grinding skills, you might think about HSS inserts. Skip the carbide. carbide wants speed and rigidity. (my friends told me to get em too... NG).?? HHS inserts you can sharpen, unlike carbide.? Little Machine shop sells them I believe.
?
My $.02
?
Enjoy
?
Kevin B.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
If you go to Alisam.com, they have the South Bend sharpening tool that Mr. Pete shows. They also have the SN angle gauge.? If you want a copy of the Atlas Lathe Book,? email me and we can discuss what I have available.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 29, 2025, at 4:52?PM, Russell Hughes via groups.io <russellhugheskj@...> wrote:
? I'll nxs
A big thanks to everyone.? Including all replies here rather than trying to go down through the list.? I hope everyone is OK with that!
?
I should have mentioned I do plan on using/learning to grind HSS as well (3 benchtop grinding wheel units and a grinding wheel attachment/tool for the lathe, I'd better LOL!)? What turning I have done has only been been with HSS.? I just wanted both options and was looking for links with proven tools from experienced people here.? Thankfully I have a lot of tooling that came with my system and that includes some of the replaceable carbide inserts, but not the tool holders for them.
?
As to knurling, I also appreciate the info on that.? I had already seen where I need to make it into a scissors type holder.? I bought the package deal after doing a lot of math deciding to convert mine after I got it.??
?
I also appreciate the tips on sharpening carbide.? I knew it could be done.? I have done a lot of research online and done a lot of research (handicapped not always able to get hands on right away), have the Mr. Pete video series I bought for Atlas Lathes he made as well as made a page of notes when watching each section.? Just need to get the nads on part now as well.? I and have also been watching Blondie hacks as well as other online videos.??
?
Now, having said all of that, and I very much appreciate everyone pointing me in the directions thay have and you can be sure I will be using HSS, I still would like to know recommended tooling to hold the carbide inserts I already have LOL!? I am just trying to make sure to avoid any unknown problems/mistakes I may be unaware of.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
A big thanks to everyone.? Including all replies here rather than trying to go down through the list.? I hope everyone is OK with that!
?
I should have mentioned I do plan on using/learning to grind HSS as well (3 benchtop grinding wheel units and a grinding wheel attachment/tool for the lathe, I'd better LOL!)? What turning I have done has only been been with HSS.? I just wanted both options and was looking for links with proven tools from experienced people here.? Thankfully I have a lot of tooling that came with my system and that includes some of the replaceable carbide inserts, but not the tool holders for them.
?
As to knurling, I also appreciate the info on that.? I had already seen where I need to make it into a scissors type holder.? I bought the package deal after doing a lot of math deciding to convert mine after I got it.??
?
I also appreciate the tips on sharpening carbide.? I knew it could be done.? I have done a lot of research online and done a lot of research (handicapped not always able to get hands on right away), have the Mr. Pete video series I bought for Atlas Lathes he made as well as made a page of notes when watching each section.? Just need to get the nads on part now as well.? I and have also been watching Blondie hacks as well as other online videos.??
?
Now, having said all of that, and I very much appreciate everyone pointing me in the directions thay have and you can be sure I will be using HSS, I still would like to know recommended tooling to hold the carbide inserts I already have LOL!? I am just trying to make sure to avoid any unknown problems/mistakes I may be unaware of.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
80 grit aluminum oxide is perfect for roughing tool bits. You don't need a 120 grit wheel, but it would be fine for making minor adjustments to your angles,? and getting a sharper edge on your cutting tool. I use diamond hones to finish the edges on my tools.?
HSS tooling will still cut with a red-hot edge. It will wear faster, but not as bad as high carbon tool steels.? Getting blue while grinding is a problem for high carbon tool steels, not High Speed Steels, or HSS. If you're working softer metals, HCTS will take a finer edge. It's also more susceptible to over heating, and losing that fine edge. That's what they used before HSS was invented, in the late 1800's & early 1900's. Woodworkers are the folks who still use mostly HCTS.?
I've spent a lot of time reading the old books on machining, and trying the things I learned on more modern machines. When I took my 2nd class, 30-some years after the first, they weren't teaching about turning between centers, for example. The manual machining class was a prerequisite for their CNC class. I don't own any CNC machines except a 3D printer, so I mostly found the older books more useful. So what info you needs depends mostly on what kinds of machining you want to do. I didn't want to do CNC. YMMV!
Good luck and have fun!
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 02:06:23 PM CDT, Larry Hoelscher via groups.io <lgh1330@...> wrote:
For sharpening HHS bits you should use a pink vitrified stone 80grit will remove the steel quick enough.? The pink will wear but that only gets you too sharper grit.? 120 is to fine and slow to get the job done.? Remember that slow just burns the HHS and dulls/softens the metal.? Use only one stone for sharpening.? Those grey hard stones does not break down to get to new gandules on the wheel.? Always use a hand wet stone to polish the edge.? I use a japanese water stone for honing.? Do not use a gold waterstone 1200 grit, to soft and will rut the stone.? One grinder for lathe tools,? sorry but those cheap hard standard stones do NOT work well for tooling.? When I taught machine shop in high school we had 2"X2" wood models showing how each tool should look like.? Big enough to see and help kids learn angles.? Grind away grasshopper
On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 12:44?PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers= [email protected]> wrote: I have actually sharpened the cheap brazed carbide tools. With an Alox wheel. When I bought the HF mini-lathe, I bought the sets of brazed tools they had. Noticed that the "cutting edge" was not touching the material I was trying to cut. The bottom edge of the chip of carbide is what was making contact. All I had at the time was an alox wheel, and it did reshape that carbide chip. Probably not the best grade of carbide...
Didn't find it satisfactory even so, and had many adventures trying to get that lathe to produce good parts which led me to join the Yahoo groups, and finally takeca class that convinced me it was the "stick actuator" not the lathe that was the problem. ?
Learned in my class to measure things accurately, and sharpen my own HSS tooling, and that took care of my problems. Not getting in a rush seems to take care of everything else. ?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
Grinding your own cutters will teach you a lot about different clearance and rake angles, chipbreaker grooves, form tools, etc.? I think that over many years I have only bought a box or two of new HSS bits - most have come from flea markets, garage sales and the like.? Nothing wrong with used HSS bits - they may not be the very latest alloys, but should work fine for you.? And someone else has already done the shaping.
In my 6" Atlas, I use two homemade four-way tool blocks, made to hold 3/8" bits at center height.? Takes only a few seconds to rotate the blocks to use a different bit, only a few seconds more to switch the blocks.? So I've got up to eight different cutters ready to go.? Usually no need to perfectly align the cutters perpendicularly to the lathe axis, even with parting tools.? Eyeball is good enough.? More rigid than a quick change tool post.
In my 13" Standard Modern, I use a wedge-type quick change tool post - which is what I got it with.? Carbide insert toolholders more often than HSS, but not always.? Parting tools are HSS.? Many of my carbide insert toolholders are those from very large lathes - 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" square, which I dovetailed to fit the QCTP.
You can sharpen carbide on a bench grinder, using a green silicon carbide wheel.? I don't bother sharpening carbide inserts, but do touch up brazed carbide tools when necessary.? The green wheels do not get carbide razor sharp, though.? Diamond wheels are better.
Carbide tooling is a handy thing to have on occasion, particularly when turning hard steels that would quickly dull HSS.? Although you can run it at a high speed, you don't have to.? Cutting internal threads in pre-hardened 4140, I used carbide threading inserts.? You can bet that I didn't run them at the speed that they would have tolerated.? And you can bet that they gave me a perfect thread profile, and pass a go/no go gauge test..
You'll probably want some carbide, but HSS bits will meet most of your needs.? And don't throw out the lantern tool post if you got one with your lathe - you won't often need it, but there are times when you will.
On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 07:43:15 AM EDT, Kevin B. via <appskrb= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Lee,
I have a similar set,? I think you'll find that some of those for larger tooling are? a little overkill for these machines. I just about only use 3/8? and 1/4"? HSS bits.? If you use the?
knurling tool as is , chuck material as close to the chuck as you can, and use a center if you can... it puts a lot of load on these machines. I took the wheels off mine and made a scissors action. ? Parting: can increase your heart rate. Really, really, really sharpen the blade, I use the small diamond stick thingies. (think like fingernail file) and lots and lots of cutting oil and with the parting tool sticking out only the amount you need. May the force be with you.
?
HHS bits: Yep, never hurts to learn how to grind them. If you want to practice that I'd try starting with 1/4", it's a little faster and? less material to remove. You do need a grinder and sharp wheel. If you need a grinder, I'd go 8". mrpete22 has lots and lots of how to videos.? blondiehacks is good too. But, while your mastering your grinding skills, you might think about HSS inserts. Skip the carbide. carbide wants speed and rigidity. (my friends told me to get em too... NG).?? HHS inserts you can sharpen, unlike carbide.? Little Machine shop sells them I believe.
?
My $.02
?
Enjoy
?
Kevin B.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
A big thanks to everyone.? Including all replies here rather than trying to go down through the list.? I hope everyone is OK with that!
?
I should have mentioned I do plan on using/learning to grind HSS as well (3 benchtop grinding wheel units and a grinding wheel attachment/tool for the lathe, I'd better LOL!)? What turning I have done has only been been with HSS.? I just wanted both options and was looking for links with proven tools from experienced people here.? Thankfully I have a lot of tooling that came with my system and that includes some of the replaceable carbide inserts, but not the tool holders for them.
?
As to knurling, I also appreciate the info on that.? I had already seen where I need to make it into a scissors type holder.? I bought the package deal after doing a lot of math deciding to convert mine after I got it.??
?
I also appreciate the tips on sharpening carbide.? I knew it could be done.? I have done a lot of research online and done a lot of research (handicapped not always able to get hands on right away), have the Mr. Pete video series I bought for Atlas Lathes he made as well as made a page of notes when watching each section.? Just need to get the nads on part now as well.? I and have also been watching Blondie hacks as well as other online videos.??
?
Now, having said all of that, and I very much appreciate everyone pointing me in the directions thay have and you can be sure I will be using HSS, I still would like to know recommended tooling to hold the carbide inserts I already have LOL!? I am just trying to make sure to avoid any unknown problems/mistakes I may be unaware of.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
For sharpening HHS bits you should use a pink vitrified stone 80grit will remove the steel quick enough.? The pink will wear but that only gets you too sharper grit.? 120 is to fine and slow to get the job done.? Remember that slow just burns the HHS and dulls/softens the metal.? Use only one stone for sharpening.? Those grey hard stones does not break down to get to new gandules on the wheel.? Always use a hand wet stone to polish the edge.? I use a japanese water stone for honing.? Do not use a gold waterstone 1200 grit, to soft and will rut the stone.? One grinder for lathe tools,? sorry but those cheap hard standard stones do NOT work well for tooling.? When I taught machine shop in high school we had 2"X2" wood models showing how each tool should look like.? Big enough to see and help kids learn angles.? Grind away grasshopper
On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 12:44?PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers= [email protected]> wrote: I have actually sharpened the cheap brazed carbide tools. With an Alox wheel. When I bought the HF mini-lathe, I bought the sets of brazed tools they had. Noticed that the "cutting edge" was not touching the material I was trying to cut. The bottom edge of the chip of carbide is what was making contact. All I had at the time was an alox wheel, and it did reshape that carbide chip. Probably not the best grade of carbide...
Didn't find it satisfactory even so, and had many adventures trying to get that lathe to produce good parts which led me to join the Yahoo groups, and finally takeca class that convinced me it was the "stick actuator" not the lathe that was the problem. ?
Learned in my class to measure things accurately, and sharpen my own HSS tooling, and that took care of my problems. Not getting in a rush seems to take care of everything else. ?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
Grinding your own cutters will teach you a lot about different clearance and rake angles, chipbreaker grooves, form tools, etc.? I think that over many years I have only bought a box or two of new HSS bits - most have come from flea markets, garage sales and the like.? Nothing wrong with used HSS bits - they may not be the very latest alloys, but should work fine for you.? And someone else has already done the shaping.
In my 6" Atlas, I use two homemade four-way tool blocks, made to hold 3/8" bits at center height.? Takes only a few seconds to rotate the blocks to use a different bit, only a few seconds more to switch the blocks.? So I've got up to eight different cutters ready to go.? Usually no need to perfectly align the cutters perpendicularly to the lathe axis, even with parting tools.? Eyeball is good enough.? More rigid than a quick change tool post.
In my 13" Standard Modern, I use a wedge-type quick change tool post - which is what I got it with.? Carbide insert toolholders more often than HSS, but not always.? Parting tools are HSS.? Many of my carbide insert toolholders are those from very large lathes - 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" square, which I dovetailed to fit the QCTP.
You can sharpen carbide on a bench grinder, using a green silicon carbide wheel.? I don't bother sharpening carbide inserts, but do touch up brazed carbide tools when necessary.? The green wheels do not get carbide razor sharp, though.? Diamond wheels are better.
Carbide tooling is a handy thing to have on occasion, particularly when turning hard steels that would quickly dull HSS.? Although you can run it at a high speed, you don't have to.? Cutting internal threads in pre-hardened 4140, I used carbide threading inserts.? You can bet that I didn't run them at the speed that they would have tolerated.? And you can bet that they gave me a perfect thread profile, and pass a go/no go gauge test..
You'll probably want some carbide, but HSS bits will meet most of your needs.? And don't throw out the lantern tool post if you got one with your lathe - you won't often need it, but there are times when you will.
On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 07:43:15 AM EDT, Kevin B. via <appskrb= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Lee,
I have a similar set,? I think you'll find that some of those for larger tooling are? a little overkill for these machines. I just about only use 3/8? and 1/4"? HSS bits.? If you use the?
knurling tool as is , chuck material as close to the chuck as you can, and use a center if you can... it puts a lot of load on these machines. I took the wheels off mine and made a scissors action. ? Parting: can increase your heart rate. Really, really, really sharpen the blade, I use the small diamond stick thingies. (think like fingernail file) and lots and lots of cutting oil and with the parting tool sticking out only the amount you need. May the force be with you.
?
HHS bits: Yep, never hurts to learn how to grind them. If you want to practice that I'd try starting with 1/4", it's a little faster and? less material to remove. You do need a grinder and sharp wheel. If you need a grinder, I'd go 8". mrpete22 has lots and lots of how to videos.? blondiehacks is good too. But, while your mastering your grinding skills, you might think about HSS inserts. Skip the carbide. carbide wants speed and rigidity. (my friends told me to get em too... NG).?? HHS inserts you can sharpen, unlike carbide.? Little Machine shop sells them I believe.
?
My $.02
?
Enjoy
?
Kevin B.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
I have actually sharpened the cheap brazed carbide tools. With an Alox wheel. When I bought the HF mini-lathe, I bought the sets of brazed tools they had. Noticed that the "cutting edge" was not touching the material I was trying to cut. The bottom edge of the chip of carbide is what was making contact. All I had at the time was an alox wheel, and it did reshape that carbide chip. Probably not the best grade of carbide...
Didn't find it satisfactory even so, and had many adventures trying to get that lathe to produce good parts which led me to join the Yahoo groups, and finally takeca class that convinced me it was the "stick actuator" not the lathe that was the problem. ?
Learned in my class to measure things accurately, and sharpen my own HSS tooling, and that took care of my problems. Not getting in a rush seems to take care of everything else. ?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 11:57:49 AM CDT, jmartin957 <jmartin957@...> via groups.io <jmartin957@...> wrote:
Grinding your own cutters will teach you a lot about different clearance and rake angles, chipbreaker grooves, form tools, etc.? I think that over many years I have only bought a box or two of new HSS bits - most have come from flea markets, garage sales and the like.? Nothing wrong with used HSS bits - they may not be the very latest alloys, but should work fine for you.? And someone else has already done the shaping.
In my 6" Atlas, I use two homemade four-way tool blocks, made to hold 3/8" bits at center height.? Takes only a few seconds to rotate the blocks to use a different bit, only a few seconds more to switch the blocks.? So I've got up to eight different cutters ready to go.? Usually no need to perfectly align the cutters perpendicularly to the lathe axis, even with parting tools.? Eyeball is good enough.? More rigid than a quick change tool post.
In my 13" Standard Modern, I use a wedge-type quick change tool post - which is what I got it with.? Carbide insert toolholders more often than HSS, but not always.? Parting tools are HSS.? Many of my carbide insert toolholders are those from very large lathes - 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" square, which I dovetailed to fit the QCTP.
You can sharpen carbide on a bench grinder, using a green silicon carbide wheel.? I don't bother sharpening carbide inserts, but do touch up brazed carbide tools when necessary.? The green wheels do not get carbide razor sharp, though.? Diamond wheels are better.
Carbide tooling is a handy thing to have on occasion, particularly when turning hard steels that would quickly dull HSS.? Although you can run it at a high speed, you don't have to.? Cutting internal threads in pre-hardened 4140, I used carbide threading inserts.? You can bet that I didn't run them at the speed that they would have tolerated.? And you can bet that they gave me a perfect thread profile, and pass a go/no go gauge test..
You'll probably want some carbide, but HSS bits will meet most of your needs.? And don't throw out the lantern tool post if you got one with your lathe - you won't often need it, but there are times when you will.
Hi Lee,
I have a similar set,? I think you'll find that some of those for larger tooling are? a little overkill for these machines. I just about only use 3/8? and 1/4"? HSS bits.? If you use the?
knurling tool as is , chuck material as close to the chuck as you can, and use a center if you can... it puts a lot of load on these machines. I took the wheels off mine and made a scissors action. ? Parting: can increase your heart rate. Really, really, really sharpen the blade, I use the small diamond stick thingies. (think like fingernail file) and lots and lots of cutting oil and with the parting tool sticking out only the amount you need. May the force be with you.
?
HHS bits: Yep, never hurts to learn how to grind them. If you want to practice that I'd try starting with 1/4", it's a little faster and? less material to remove. You do need a grinder and sharp wheel. If you need a grinder, I'd go 8". mrpete22 has lots and lots of how to videos.? blondiehacks is good too. But, while your mastering your grinding skills, you might think about HSS inserts. Skip the carbide. carbide wants speed and rigidity. (my friends told me to get em too... NG).?? HHS inserts you can sharpen, unlike carbide.? Little Machine shop sells them I believe.
?
My $.02
?
Enjoy
?
Kevin B.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
Grinding your own cutters will teach you a lot about different clearance and rake angles, chipbreaker grooves, form tools, etc.? I think that over many years I have only bought a box or two of new HSS bits - most have come from flea markets, garage sales and the like.? Nothing wrong with used HSS bits - they may not be the very latest alloys, but should work fine for you.? And someone else has already done the shaping.
In my 6" Atlas, I use two homemade four-way tool blocks, made to hold 3/8" bits at center height.? Takes only a few seconds to rotate the blocks to use a different bit, only a few seconds more to switch the blocks.? So I've got up to eight different cutters ready to go.? Usually no need to perfectly align the cutters perpendicularly to the lathe axis, even with parting tools.? Eyeball is good enough.? More rigid than a quick change tool post.
In my 13" Standard Modern, I use a wedge-type quick change tool post - which is what I got it with.? Carbide insert toolholders more often than HSS, but not always.? Parting tools are HSS.? Many of my carbide insert toolholders are those from very large lathes - 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" square, which I dovetailed to fit the QCTP.
You can sharpen carbide on a bench grinder, using a green silicon carbide wheel.? I don't bother sharpening carbide inserts, but do touch up brazed carbide tools when necessary.? The green wheels do not get carbide razor sharp, though.? Diamond wheels are better.
Carbide tooling is a handy thing to have on occasion, particularly when turning hard steels that would quickly dull HSS.? Although you can run it at a high speed, you don't have to.? Cutting internal threads in pre-hardened 4140, I used carbide threading inserts.? You can bet that I didn't run them at the speed that they would have tolerated.? And you can bet that they gave me a perfect thread profile, and pass a go/no go gauge test..
You'll probably want some carbide, but HSS bits will meet most of your needs.? And don't throw out the lantern tool post if you got one with your lathe - you won't often need it, but there are times when you will.
Hi Lee,
I have a similar set,? I think you'll find that some of those for larger tooling are? a little overkill for these machines. I just about only use 3/8? and 1/4"? HSS bits.? If you use the?
knurling tool as is , chuck material as close to the chuck as you can, and use a center if you can... it puts a lot of load on these machines. I took the wheels off mine and made a scissors action. ? Parting: can increase your heart rate. Really, really, really sharpen the blade, I use the small diamond stick thingies. (think like fingernail file) and lots and lots of cutting oil and with the parting tool sticking out only the amount you need. May the force be with you.
?
HHS bits: Yep, never hurts to learn how to grind them. If you want to practice that I'd try starting with 1/4", it's a little faster and? less material to remove. You do need a grinder and sharp wheel. If you need a grinder, I'd go 8". mrpete22 has lots and lots of how to videos.? blondiehacks is good too. But, while your mastering your grinding skills, you might think about HSS inserts. Skip the carbide. carbide wants speed and rigidity. (my friends told me to get em too... NG).?? HHS inserts you can sharpen, unlike carbide.? Little Machine shop sells them I believe.
?
My $.02
?
Enjoy
?
Kevin B.
|
Maybe I'm misinterpreting something, but are you saying that Tractor Supply carries smokeless or black powder or other reloading items?? I've never seen anything like it in the Maine stores.
??? yea? & Tractor supply also has a fair
selection fr the larger stuff . I can usually pick
up? a lb of powder or other supplies while I'm there
.We used to have a killer surplus store in Rena?
&Hardware was like 2 bucks a lb , but we were at
the mercy of?? what the gov had bought 40-50 years
earlier .
thanks
animal
On
4/28/25 10:33 AM, Ken H via groups.io wrote:
Cal Ranch is great for common Gr. 5 and 8 as sold
by the pound.
I have done a lot of business with Bolt Dep. Excellent
service and prices.
Tried bolts & nuts, they show items in stock then
screw you (pun intended) after the sale by showing
back ordered and prices are very high, no thanks!
--
Ken H in AZ
Knowledge is like manure, it won't do any good unless
you spread it around.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
Hi Lee,
I have a similar set,? I think you'll find that some of those for larger tooling are? a little overkill for these machines. I just about only use 3/8? and 1/4"? HSS bits.? If you use the?
knurling tool as is , chuck material as close to the chuck as you can, and use a center if you can... it puts a lot of load on these machines. I took the wheels off mine and made a scissors action. ? Parting: can increase your heart rate. Really, really, really sharpen the blade, I use the small diamond stick thingies. (think like fingernail file) and lots and lots of cutting oil and with the parting tool sticking out only the amount you need. May the force be with you.
?
HHS bits: Yep, never hurts to learn how to grind them. If you want to practice that I'd try starting with 1/4", it's a little faster and? less material to remove. You do need a grinder and sharp wheel. If you need a grinder, I'd go 8". mrpete22 has lots and lots of how to videos.? blondiehacks is good too. But, while your mastering your grinding skills, you might think about HSS inserts. Skip the carbide. carbide wants speed and rigidity. (my friends told me to get em too... NG).?? HHS inserts you can sharpen, unlike carbide.? Little Machine shop sells them I believe.
?
My $.02
?
Enjoy
?
Kevin B.
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
Ain't that the truth. I used Clausing Colchester lathes in my class, a few years ago. Teaching machines, so sort of bottom edge af real industrial lathes. The small one, a 13" lathe, weighed 2700# and the 15" lathe around 3800#. My vintage 1946 TH42 is about 267#, and the WWII toolroom SB Heavy 10L is 1067#.?
It wouldn't be unreasonable to call our Atlas Craftsman machines "spaghetti lathes." But people were turning out 3" cannon shells on them during the war. They are quite capable of doing useful work, but need shallower cuts and slower feeds and speeds, than a heavier lathe.??
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Monday, April 28, 2025 at 09:18:48 PM CDT, Larry Hoelscher via groups.io <lgh1330@...> wrote:
Get a copy(reprint) of the Atlas manual and some HHS cutter bits.? Learn to grind the HHS bits.? Use them and resharpen.? You could get carbide tips but you are NOT ready to use them at this point.? Without special jigs you will not be able to touch them up. The Atlas will cut lots of steel or aluminum.? They are NOT industrial machines even thought they were produced for WWII work.? Learn grasshopper.
On Mon, Apr 28, 2025 at 8:47?PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers= [email protected]> wrote: What jmartin said. Start there, then once you know what to do with your machine. You can branch out to carbide insert tooling.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
Do you have a grinder?? If so, get some high speed steel bits and learn how to grind them.
On Monday, April 28, 2025 at 02:14:47 PM EDT, Lbrewer42 via <lbrewer_42= [email protected]> wrote:
The great people on this group suggested which QCTP for me to buy for my Atlas 10".? So I got the recommended BOSTAR AXA 250-111 Wedge Type Tool Post Tool Holder Set for Lathe 6-12".? I got it with a 10 piece set:
251-111 (1 Set) AXA Size Wedge Type Tool Post?
250-101 (2PC) Turning & Facing Tool Holder, use tool bits up to 1/2"
250-102 (1PC) Boring, Turning & Facing Tool holder use Tool Bits up to 1/2"?
250-101XL (2PC) Oversize Slot Turning & Facing Tool Holder use tool bits up to 5/8"
250-102XL (1PC) Oversize Slot Boring, Turning & Facing Tool holder use Tool Bits up to 5/8"?
250-104 (1PC) Heavy Duty Boring Bar Holder, can use 5/8" and 3/4" two size shank boring bars
250-107 (1PC) Parting Blade Tool Holder, use 1/2" height parting blades
And (1PC) Two Wheel Knurling Tool can be used separately with any square tool bit holder
?
I am now looking for recommendations on buying the tool bits for this unit and its parts.? I was told by one friend I want tool holders with replaceable carbide tips.? ?I have done some looking online and now am coming here for the opinions of multiple people with actual experience/advice/trusted sources/links etc.? I am a total newbie who has had some fun with just turning down some metal.? I have been told the Chinesium versions are OK for beginners, but not sure if I don't just want to get a decent set right away (without breaking the bank though!)? ?
?
The machine came with some carbide inserts (proper term?) but no tool to attach them to.
?
As always thanks for any help,
Lee
|
Re: Info for which tooling to buy.
Get a copy(reprint) of the Atlas manual and some HHS cutter bits.? Learn to grind the HHS bits.? Use them and resharpen.? You could get carbide tips but you are NOT ready to use them at this point.? Without special jigs you will not be able to touch them up. The Atlas will cut lots of steel or aluminum.? They are NOT industrial machines even thought they were produced for WWII work.? Learn grasshopper.
On Mon, Apr 28, 2025 at 8:47?PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers= [email protected]> wrote: What jmartin said. Start there, then once you know what to do with your machine. You can branch out to carbide insert tooling.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
Do you have a grinder?? If so, get some high speed steel bits and learn how to grind them.
On Monday, April 28, 2025 at 02:14:47 PM EDT, Lbrewer42 via <lbrewer_42= [email protected]> wrote:
The great people on this group suggested which QCTP for me to buy for my Atlas 10".? So I got the recommended BOSTAR AXA 250-111 Wedge Type Tool Post Tool Holder Set for Lathe 6-12".? I got it with a 10 piece set:
251-111 (1 Set) AXA Size Wedge Type Tool Post?
250-101 (2PC) Turning & Facing Tool Holder, use tool bits up to 1/2"
250-102 (1PC) Boring, Turning & Facing Tool holder use Tool Bits up to 1/2"?
250-101XL (2PC) Oversize Slot Turning & Facing Tool Holder use tool bits up to 5/8"
250-102XL (1PC) Oversize Slot Boring, Turning & Facing Tool holder use Tool Bits up to 5/8"?
250-104 (1PC) Heavy Duty Boring Bar Holder, can use 5/8" and 3/4" two size shank boring bars
250-107 (1PC) Parting Blade Tool Holder, use 1/2" height parting blades
And (1PC) Two Wheel Knurling Tool can be used separately with any square tool bit holder
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I am now looking for recommendations on buying the tool bits for this unit and its parts.? I was told by one friend I want tool holders with replaceable carbide tips.? ?I have done some looking online and now am coming here for the opinions of multiple people with actual experience/advice/trusted sources/links etc.? I am a total newbie who has had some fun with just turning down some metal.? I have been told the Chinesium versions are OK for beginners, but not sure if I don't just want to get a decent set right away (without breaking the bank though!)? ?
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The machine came with some carbide inserts (proper term?) but no tool to attach them to.
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As always thanks for any help,
Lee
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Don’t know where you’re at, but here in Tulsa, Oklahoma we have a distributor by the name of “The Rule Company” and I’ve yet to stump them with anything I’ve needed. Hope ya find someone.? Is there something in particular your looking ? for? Have a great day!
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On Apr 28, 2025, at 6:53?AM, perry7122 via groups.io <perry7122@...> wrote:
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You could try Wilders inc in Raleigh, NC. I have no idea about shipping policies but have always had what I needed.
On Monday, April 28, 2025 at 07:26:31 AM EDT, Dennis Williams via groups.io <dwhog@...> wrote:
If you don’t mind ordering online and shipping try this one, they have a great app and site.
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Bill in OKC too
Jim F
Lbrewer42
Mickey