On 3/22/25 06:02, hedgesben via
groups.io wrote:
Are the vertical versions more susceptible to vibration than
the horizontal types.
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If the countershaft is bent, even a little, it will cause a LOT
of vibration.? Rough handling during a move can bend the
countershaft or the big pulley on it.? That is a common problem.
Jon
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You may have motor issues. Check that first. If not you can go to a heating supplier they have pads for furnaces, you can set your lathe on them and bolt thru them?
GP
On Saturday, March 22, 2025 at 10:16:04 AM EDT, Dollar Bill via groups.io <bill_griffin@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
Likely not much difference. Have you considered shock mounting the motor?
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I Love Anything That Turns Money Into Noise
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i hadnt good idea.... as you can visibly see the mounting plate bouncing up and down
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Likely not much difference. Have you considered shock mounting the motor?
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I Love Anything That Turns Money Into Noise
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Are the vertical versions more susceptible to vibration than the horizontal types.
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Re: what chuck would my atlas have
As Bill said the lathe came with minimal tooling, I think a faceplate and centers. Everything else was extra, so some bought Atlas (or Craftsman) tooling as that was easy, and could be supplied with the lathe at extra cost. Alternatively people bought or used second hand tooling.
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Since the 1-1/2"-8 is very common there were lots of options even in the 40s.
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Re: what chuck would my atlas have
My 1950s (per registry sn estimate) TH42 came 2nd (or more hand) with a 5” BB 435 Atlas 3 jaw chuck dated 6-51. May or may not be the original chuck? Don’t know if this helps.
I recently picked up an 8” Craftsman #1111078 4 jaw chuck dated 10-2-38 in usable shape off EBay.
Good luck
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Re: what chuck would my atlas have
My 1946 TH42 came with an Atlas 5" 3-jaw chuck, IIRC. It's FUBAR, and awaiting time for me to try out one of my tool post grinders on it... If it's a real Pratt it should be a very good quality chuck, but it may be old and worn, as is my Atlas chuck. Give it a good deep cleaning, and see if that helps any. Some folks bought complete sets, some got just the lathe, so there's no telling what came with it unless you got original paperwork with it. Mine was at least second hand, and maybe more.? And don't expect too much from a 3-jaw chuck. A 3-jaw self-centering chuck that has a TIR of .003" is considered pretty good. And they're not used for things that require high precision. Usual tolerance for most machining is +/- .005" in industry, according to the instructor in my machine shop class a few years ago.?
This isn't something taught in my class, but learned from some of the old books. If you want the absolute best precision a lathe is capable of, you need to turn between centers. Next best would be either a 4-jaw independent jaw chuck, or a collet chuck. Or collets that fit the spindle. ;) An ER32 or ER40 chuck can be had to fit the Atlas/Craftsman spindles, and they will allow material up to about 3/4" through the spindle. I also found an ER32 collet chuck and made an adjustable mount for it. Since I also have a set of ER32 collets I bought for that mini-lathe.?Morse Taper 3 (MT3) collets fit the spindle with no adapters, but they do need a draw bar to keep them from spinning in the spindle. That is a bad thing! The draw bar also prevents material from going through the spindle. Atlas/Craftsman and the 7x mini-lathes use an MT3 spindle, and an MT2 tailstock taper, so a lot of the accessories for one can be used on the other. With a new back plate, you can use the 3 & 4-jaw chucks on either, too.?When I got my Atlas lathe, first thing I bought it was a 6" 4-jaw import chuck. Could not afford any of the really good chucks. A Buck Adjust-Tru was more than I spent buying the lathe. But you can make your own back plate and turn about any chuck into an adjustable chuck. With just a little fiddling, I can get a part dialed in to .0005" and with a bit more, I can get to .0001" in the 4-jaw. I'm not doing rocket science, but wanted to be able to.?
I probably have much more stuff than I need, but you don't have to go bonkers like I did. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, March 12, 2025 at 06:13:03 AM CDT, hedgesben via groups.io <hedgesben@...> wrote:
Bit of a silly question possibly but what chuck would of come with my atlas in 1941.? The one on it has the pratt chuck made in england lightly stamped/engraved on it the model no FN436 is heavily stamped. above it has a small hexagon divided into triangles.
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I cant find any thing like it so no idea if its genuine or a copy or what it is.?
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Re: what chuck would my atlas have
just heard back from pratt burnerd apparently the chuck was made in december 1949!!
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Re: what chuck would my atlas have
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pic in case anyone recognises it
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what chuck would my atlas have
Bit of a silly question possibly but what chuck would of come with my atlas in 1941.? The one on it has the pratt chuck made in england lightly stamped/engraved on it the model no FN436 is heavily stamped. above it has a small hexagon divided into triangles.
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I cant find any thing like it so no idea if its genuine or a copy or what it is.?
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Re: Craftsman Commercial back gear removal
On Mar 11, 2025, at 6:35?AM, Jeff Lowe via groups.io <jalowe@...> wrote:
? I am replacing the spindle belts on my Commercial 12". This is on a cabinet so the under drive option is used. I have pulled the spindle, but the back gears need to come out as well and I cannot figure this out. How does this split apart? As an aside, are replacement oiler caps available for the end of the eccentric? I'll need a new one because...reasons.
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Jeff
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Craftsman Commercial back gear removal
I am replacing the spindle belts on my Commercial 12". This is on a cabinet so the under drive option is used. I have pulled the spindle, but the back gears need to come out as well and I cannot figure this out. How does this split apart? As an aside, are replacement oiler caps available for the end of the eccentric? I'll need a new one because...reasons.
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Jeff
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Re: center height/ distance from topslide
Cdcotools.com seems to be a go-to place for a lot of people due to their good customer service department.?
I bought?original?my OXA?set from them, and afterwards, I picked up tool holders from ebay, amazon, and aliexpress.?
Nowadays, aliexpress is probably not a valid source until the tariff issues are worked?out.?
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thanks for that.? I was trying to measure from the compound to the chuck center it wasnt very successful. ? The company people seem to rave about here said on their website that the tool height was max of 27mm so was hesitent but found an ebay supplier
that seemed a little more aware of what he was selling so bit the bullet and ordered one.
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Re: center height/ distance from topslide
thanks for that.? I was trying to measure from the compound to the chuck center it wasnt very successful. ? The company people seem to rave about here said on their website that the tool height was max of 27mm so was hesitent but found an ebay supplier that seemed a little more aware of what he was selling so bit the bullet and ordered one.
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Re: center height/ distance from topslide
I'm not sure anyone answered your question.? But FWIW, using calipers on my QC42, I measured a distance of 30.9mm (1.217") between the spindle centerline and the mounting surface of the compound.
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In the photo you can see that measurement and also the side of my AXA tool post.? There is a 0.2" spacer under the toolpost so I can use the same tool holder position on this AXA as well as on my 13" lathe's AXA.? That size tool post serves both lathes just fine.
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HTH,? Bill
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US;USAEDFE, 72-74
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Re: More bloody slop found
Doesn't really matter, it's not a precision machined part to begin with and it's just a pivot for the belt tension so nothing to worry about
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Re: More bloody slop found
the hinge pin doesnt turn.? it just allows the hanger to rise up and down on the cam for tightening and slackening the belts
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Re: More bloody slop found
May want to check the bushings at each end of the hinge pin, and the pin itself. Might need to replace one or more of them. Do you have access to a surface plate? If so that would help you check the pin. I'd strip the paint off it first. If you have a decent table saw, you could use that, or make a reasonable facsimile with a piece of plate glass, a la David Gingery.?
Bushings can wallow out, where the hole just gets larger more or less evenly, or they may wear an oval hole, crack, etc. That may give you quite a lot of slop. Mike the ends of the pin, because grit or dust in the lube, ar a lack of lube can cause wear on the ends of the pin as well as inside the bushing. A lap is a softer metal full of grit used to smooth or polish something, usually.? But an oilite bushing can become an impromptu lap.?
Good luck getting it fixed!?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, February 18, 2025 at 06:35:44 AM CST, hedgesben via groups.io <hedgesben@...> wrote:
Afternoon all,? I wanted to see if i could adjust the clamp screws on the counter shaft and as usual found something else.? Its hard to describe so i will use the part numbers and try to attach pics.? The hanger (part no. 9-21) can slide along the hinge pin (9-123) just over 3/16" parallel to the bed.? the hanger can also twist perpendicular to the bed about 40 thou on its pin.
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Many thanks
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.?
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Dollar Bill
Bill in OKC too
Bill Buckalew