Bruce,

I may be able to help, but I'm reluctant to 'rain on your parade'. You seem excited by this project with this new accessory, but I suggest that you may not really need it, and that you will likely give up using it once you do succeed:

Sears/Craftsman offered these in the '50s into the '60s when their drill presses were made by the King-Seeley Corp. In the mid-50s they offered four versions to fit different column diameters, but by the 60s they had only one model, described in their catalog as fitting only 2 or 3 "former model xxxx" drills. It was called the "Slow-speed attachment".

I have one of those King-Seeley/Craftsman drill presses, and?I was delighted when I found the slow speed attachment that fit it.

Damn! I spent a lot of time fussing with that thing to get it mounted and aligned and adjusted. I left it installed for a couple years, during which I spent a lot more time doing the several steps necessary to change the speed, usually having to move two belts instead of one, often-as-not having to?remove?both belts and put them back in opposite order, just get some incremental change in speed.

At some point I realized:

1. I was spending a lot of time to set speeds that were within the range that's readily available with the basic 4-speed arrangement, seldom if ever using the extreme high and low speeds that were possible only with the attachment.

2. With the motor belt above the spindle belt you can get many different speeds, but they're all slower than the motor speed. With motor belt below, ditto, except they're all faster speeds. Either way, you get almost no speeds in the middle range, except by off-setting the motor pulley by one step, and then the total number of speed settings is severely reduced (and even more often requires removing both belts to change speed.

I think you get where this is going...

?

A few months ago I removed the third pulley (which I had come to think of as a fifth wheel) and I have not once wished to put it back on. It's there, ready to be re-installed. This would be likely only if I have a project that involves drilling a LOT of holes in some combination of size and material where I want a much higher or lower speed than I can get otherwise.

Now it takes me ten seconds instead of two minutes change speed.

?

I was thinking of writing something like this when you first posted, but like I said, I didn't want to damp your enthusiasm.

Then, just yesterday, I read a remark by somebody selling one of these things (maybe on eBay, I can't recall...) who admitted in the listing that he has had it for a long time and formerly used it, but decided it wasn't worth the bother, and now it's been lying around unused for years... so he's selling it. Not a very convincing sales pitch but, like almost everybody who loves to?work?with?things, honest!

This convinced me to pass this on to you.

Participants here will often exhort each other to stop wasting time on the finicky details and to "start making chips". (Just purchase the $10 item you need instead of spending 5 hours making one, install it, and get back to making what you?really?want to be making.)

So my advice to you:

Put that third pulley away and start making holes.

?

Kurt B.

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On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 03:31 AM, Robert Downs wrote:

With the exception of the two spindle belts on the late 12” cabinet models, all of the Atlas built metal working lathes were originally designed so that if the motor was mounted in the proper location, slackening the belt tension lever or rod loosened both belts for changing spindle speeds.

Not entirely correct, depending on how one chooses to define "proper location." Models on which the countershaft bracket L3-20 (with motor base 9-22 or 9-22A) is mounted directly to the back of the lathe bed the motor belt tension is fixed separately from the countershaft-to-spindle belt tension. Please refer to the illustration attached. This illustration was clipped from the operation and parts manual for Craftsman 101.07403 model lathes.

?
Loosening the lock-nut 9-42 will release the motor lock bolt but the weight of the motor will hang on the belt keeping it tensioned when not in use.

Raymond ?

Raymond

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??? ??? is there enough meat to bore it , ya just need .0625 on each side

??? ??? animal

I simply made a suggestion which has been working on a machine for 30 plus years and to say to braze a piece of steel to an alloy pulley does not work. You have given incorrect advice to hear yourself talk. This is why I only check in periodically here, I shound know better.

Oh, I realized that the #60-29 pulley will not work.? It is a 1/2" shaft size.? The Hi-Lo Speed Attachment shaft is 5/8".? Back to square one...............
--
Bruce Varner

Ok, I now think that the pulley which came on the Hi-Lo Speed Attachment was not correct, at least not correct for use on my 101.03622 drill press.? I just measured ALL three pulleys now on the drill press + the broken one that came on the attachment.? The motor pulley and the spindle pulley seem to be correct for the drill press.? The one that came on the attachment & the one I purchased as a replacement are way-way different in all dimensions!

So, the motor pulley is #60-29.? The spindle pulley is #60-6A.? Dimensions on both (Other than shaft size, etc.) are the same.? So I apparently need to find a #60-29 pulley.? Looking now.? Nothing jumps out so far.
--
Bruce Varner

By the way, the part number on the damaged pulley in your initial posting is suspect to begin with because those numbers do not follow Atlas Press company part numbering scheme. There is typically two or three digits, a dash and two or three more. They did have some variation on that but nothing I am familiar with looks anything like the numbers on your damaged pulley. But I don't know everything. Yet....

Raymond

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 11:16 AM, <exerpd+groupsio@...> wrote:

if anyone knows of an exact model number replacement pulley as the original in my image, please let me know.? I also like things to be as original as possible.? It’s a collecting thing.? Not just a functional thing.

It would be helpful if we could identify the model number of the intermediate kit. You indicated that it does not appear to be a W121 or W122 so we need to figure out what other model number Hi-Lo kit you have. I will. look to see if I can ID it from your pictures and other available documentation.

Raymond

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 11:16 AM, <exerpd+groupsio@...> wrote:

Ordering a second copy of the new pulley I purchased for the Speed-Reducing Attachment & place it on the motor.? I can see how that will work…..? Anyone think that this will not work??????

All three pulleys: Motor, Intermediate, and Spindle must match in profile and sheave diameters. If there is one that has a different profile the belts will not align properly without height adjustment anytime you change speed. If the sheave diameters are not all matched you may have difficulty making belt tension adjustments. The belt from the intermediate to the spindle pulley may be the most challenging if there is a mismatch between those two because the intermediate has the narrowest adjustment range.

Raymond

Those are really nice illustrations, than you for sharing them.

Detailed notes on my observations:

Note the cone-shaped bottom of the Spindle Thrust Collar that is above the spindle bearing - Neither the Craftsman nor the Atlas I have apart have the conical shape on the bottom of this collar, nor do the manuals show it that way - part # 60-24.



There is a small hole in the top of the pulley into which the operator could apply a few drops of oil. This hole is aligned with a groove resembling a keyway that would permit the oil to dribble down the outer surface of the sleeve on which the pulley and the upper spindle pulley bearing are installed. The oil would then pool around the center of the that bearing and could then seep into the bearing past the shield. Clever, perhaps, but not a good design, IMHO. A permanently lubricated and sealed bearing never needing additional oil until it begins to fail many thousands of operational hours in the future I think is a far better design.

?



Lubrication instructions for the Craftsman 101.06322 has this passage:

• "B.? Quill bearings - oil frequently. (Note: Spindle must be in lowest position to uncover oil hole)."

This would suggest there is an oil hole in the quill near the top. But the quills I have have no such hole near the top. There is an oil hole near the bottom, a little higher up than where the quill stop mount is mounted. This hole could be used to add oil to the bottom most floating spindle bearing.? But I see no way to apply oil to the upper floating spindle bearing. With the design illustrated and as in the manuals any such oil hole located to reach the upper floating spindle bearing would have to penetrate the threaded bearing retaining ring. If the quill were to be extended far enough so such hole could be exposed the quill would need to be removed from the head.

?

It is interesting to note that the Model 1060 series drill presses do not have the grease cup, nor do they have the same lubrication instructions, but have the same characteristic design and the same bearing part numbers as the Craftsman 101.03622. I am inclined to suspect that the original design or documentation proved to be problematic and an ECO discontinued the lubrication instructions. The manual for the Craftsman 101.03622 and 101.03662 drill presses is dated July, 1941 and probably represents the earlier engineering while the Atlas 1060 series instructions are dated December 1951 and represent the later engineering. The most curious part is both documents call for the same bearings, spindle, and quill part numbers. Of course, Atlas Press and Craftsman documentation is know to have errors and omissions.

My conclusions:

• If you install shielded bearings oil might be dribbled into the upper most bearing but I seriously doubt any grease pushed into that void between the two upper bearings with the grease cup will do anything for either of them until that cavity is so packed full of grease it starts getting squeezed out top and bottom, slowly but surely making a nasty mess. But the shielded bearings should retain most of the factory installed lubrication (some unknown grade of bearing grease) for 20 years or more and additional lubrication is probably not necessary.
• Unless your machine has a different quill with different internal profile and an upper oil hole there is no way to add new lubricant the upper floating spindle bearing without removing the spindle assembly.
• If you were to install all sealed bearings there would be no point in attempting to add any lubricants to the spindle bearings after assembly and they will last 20 to 30 years or more.

Raymond

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 05:11 PM, starjump wrote:

Raymond wanted info on the bearings, there is no make on the new 6202 5/8 bearings Raymond. The others are yet to arrive. S.A.E. 20 oil with the new bearings:

Thank you!? Made in China, perhaps?
Open bearings, no shields.... Ok, if you install them then follow the oiling instructions you posted previously to keep them lubricated. Be prepared to wipe up what will drip from the bottom of the quill as gravity works it magic (or evil, depending on your point of view.)

Raymond

Forgive me if I am late for this act:

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 05:07 PM, starjump wrote:

Old bearings:

(photograph)

The spindle inner bearings are OPEN! Are they open on both sides? How about the two larger bearings? Open one side or shielded on both sides?

Raymond

Andrei - I am unable to read the full email address for the person at Clausing you mentioned.? All I can see is:
Tom?McNett
Technical Service
Clausing Service Center
Ph: 800-535-6553
Email: tmcnett@...

tmcnett@????????.???
--
Bruce Varner

Rick,
You wrote, "Why not move the motor up?? Appears to be room in the slots?? One could also slide the motor pulley off the shaft a small amount?