I have not built one for my atlas, as I pretty much use it for a second operation machine. ?My primary lathe will take 2 inches through the spindle. ?I built a spider for it out of thick wall mechanical tubing. ?I also built a spider chuck. ?I used brass tipped screws from grizzly. ?Still good to use a shim on a finished barrel though.
They also make spiders?
Charles
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On Feb 3, 2019, at 10:30 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io < wa5cab@...> wrote: It just occurred to me that a fairly obvious and available ready-made choice would be an adaptor from the thread on the left end of the spindle to 1-1/2”-8 would allow one to use a Jacobs 59B Headstock Chuck.? They open up to a hair over 3/4”, which is the limit for through the spindle. ? Robert Downs ? ? I would like an iris instead of the set screws. ? On Sun, Feb 3, 2019 at 5:44 PM Jody <jp4lsu@...> wrote: No worries Dave, I've been getting them. I think I do like the idea of the set sews on the spider bolts any sort of jam nut.
-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...>
Date: 2/3/19 2:36 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
Sorry for the multiple replies! Got some slow....... internet today!
Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 2:19 PM dpm100@... wrote: Hi Guys, For whatever reason I couldn't reply to Bill's post regarding spider plans. Permanent Error! ? Anyway, I just looked at it. Looks like the same idea as my concept sketch. ? I would not use soft tip adjusting screws on anything polished, blued, plated or otherwise finished.They will slightly mar the material due to the rotating action. Think about turning the steering wheel at a dead stop, plenty of abrading and embedding going on. ? You need something stationary to separate the screws from the work, wrap a piece of brass shim stock, maybe .010" thick around it. Only pressure instead of rotating. Could do the same with the chuck jaws but I prefer a piece of paper folded in half, torn to around the circumference of the part and wrapped around. Cheap, easy and very effective. I can't stand any kind of marks on something that's supposed to look like new, no scratches either. ? Not a fan of the jam nuts. Once adjusted, tightening the nuts will loosen the screws a little. ?Just my thoughts, ? Dave On February 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Never made one for the Atlas but I might.? Replace the threaded collar/nut on left end of the spindle with something like this.? First thing that popped into my head.? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/3/19 08:37 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide [Edited Message Follows] Topic should be Making Spider.
Eventually I'd like to be able to do a little barrel work and have been checking out various methods of indicating off the bore.
I was curious if anybody made a spider for the back end of the spindle.? Of course this cold be used to keep any stock steady.
Thanks,
Jody (DFW)
?
?
|
It just occurred to me that a fairly obvious and available ready-made choice would be an adaptor from the thread on the left end of the spindle to 1-1/2”-8 would allow one to use a Jacobs 59B Headstock Chuck.? They open up to a hair over 3/4”, which is the limit for through the spindle. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2019 16:53
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide? I would like an iris instead of the set screws. ? On Sun, Feb 3, 2019 at 5:44 PM Jody <jp4lsu@...> wrote: No worries Dave, I've been getting them. I think I do like the idea of the set sews on the spider bolts any sort of jam nut.
-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...>
Date: 2/3/19 2:36 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
Sorry for the multiple replies! Got some slow....... internet today!
Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 2:19 PM dpm100@... wrote: Hi Guys, For whatever reason I couldn't reply to Bill's post regarding spider plans. Permanent Error! ? Anyway, I just looked at it. Looks like the same idea as my concept sketch. ? I would not use soft tip adjusting screws on anything polished, blued, plated or otherwise finished.They will slightly mar the material due to the rotating action. Think about turning the steering wheel at a dead stop, plenty of abrading and embedding going on. ? You need something stationary to separate the screws from the work, wrap a piece of brass shim stock, maybe .010" thick around it. Only pressure instead of rotating. Could do the same with the chuck jaws but I prefer a piece of paper folded in half, torn to around the circumference of the part and wrapped around. Cheap, easy and very effective. I can't stand any kind of marks on something that's supposed to look like new, no scratches either. ? Not a fan of the jam nuts. Once adjusted, tightening the nuts will loosen the screws a little. ?Just my thoughts, ? Dave On February 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Never made one for the Atlas but I might.? Replace the threaded collar/nut on left end of the spindle with something like this.? First thing that popped into my head.? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/3/19 08:37 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide [Edited Message Follows] Topic should be Making Spider.
Eventually I'd like to be able to do a little barrel work and have been checking out various methods of indicating off the bore.
I was curious if anybody made a spider for the back end of the spindle.? Of course this cold be used to keep any stock steady.
Thanks,
Jody (DFW)
?
?
|
Re: How to align spindle to bed
Thank you everyone for the great information. Mike what a great find.that hardened shaft looks amazing. So I do have timken bearing in this lathe so when ?I restored this lathe a year ago I changed them out and set the preload correctly. Being that the headstock is an interference fit to the bed maybe there isn’t a problem with the headstock to bed alignment. Maybe there misalignment with the tail stock or something going south with the cross Slide?
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On Feb 3, 2019, at 8:19 PM, mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? I just ordered 1 of these , seemed worth it as we have
several lathes in our group that it will fit . $50.00 with
shipping from england , well see how long it takes to get here
??? ???
??? ??? animal
On 2/3/2019 4:00 PM, Steven H via
Groups.Io wrote:
One way to do it, costs some money, would be to make or preferably
purchase a ground Morse taper 3 alignment bar with about 12” of
straight length. I have such a bar that I purchased from an eBay
seller a few years back. I also have a MT2 alignment bare which is
useful for checking the tailstock and will work on a 6” Atlas
lathe spindle. Clean the spindle taper, install the bar in the
spindle, and use a dial indicator and mag base on the carriage to
check both vertical and horizontal alignment running the dial
indicator back and forth on the top and front or rear face of the
alignment bar.
Perhaps you could achieve the same check if you had a nice new
three jaw chuck installed on the spindle and used a nice straight
length of 3/4 or 1” diameter drill rod instead of the alignment
bar in the spindle taper.
I have several pdf’s on lathe alignment and various methods of
checking lathe alignment and condition if you think those would be
useful to you let me know and I will send them to you via email.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
_
|
Re: How to align spindle to bed
Actually, it is not necessary that the bar be perfectly straight, just as it is not necessary that it be held perfectly aligned in the chuck or spindle taper. ?What you are trying to do is confirm that the ways are in line with the axis of rotation of the spindle. ?Even if the bar is slightly bent, or held not quite straight in the spindle, rotating the spindle and averaging your indicator readings will tell you where the axis is.
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On Feb 3, 2019, at 10:04 PM, Jon Elson < elson@...> wrote: On 02/03/2019 02:43 PM, Robert Duvall wrote: hi guys have looked around at the files and can’t find out
how to check alignment of the spindle to the bed. Aka to
made sure the spindle is paralleling the bed ways. Well, on a Timken bearing lathe, it is fairly hard for this to get OUT of alignment. The headstock is an interference fit into the inner faces of the bed ways, and unless chips or whatever was left between the headstock and bed, it should sit flat on the top ways. If you have Babbit bearings that are worn, the spindle can be tilted so you cut tapers, but there's no simple "adjustment" for that. Generally, new bearings need to be poured and scraped in. Well, if you have a dial test indicator and a hardened and ground bar of known straightness and roundness, you can chuck that up, and rotate the chuck to make sure it is held without wobble. Then, you can put the indicator in the toolpost and run it up and down the bar to check for misalignment. Jon
|
I built a spider for my Atlas Clausing 12X36 to chamber rifle barrels for various rebarreling projects. The spider is a light press fit on the end of the spindle with two rows of 4 socket head cap screws evenly spaced.
if I’m working on a barrel that is prefinished, I just use coke can aluminum under the screws, build a concentric barrel plug for each end (a snug fit between the lands of the bore) and dial in both ends with a DTI via a 4 jaw and the spider.
Since my spindle diameter isn’t large enough to pass a full barrel through, I also employ a steady rest on the breech end, and thread, face the breech, set the shoulder, and headspace before taking anything down. ?Concentricity is the name of the game, and I always attempt to shoot for (pun definitely intended) 1/2 a thou in remaining concentric on all linear and perpendicular mating surfaces.
|
Re: How to align spindle to bed
??? ??? I just ordered 1 of these , seemed worth it as we have
several lathes in our group that it will fit . $50.00 with
shipping from england , well see how long it takes to get here
??? ???
??? ??? animal
On 2/3/2019 4:00 PM, Steven H via
Groups.Io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
One way to do it, costs some money, would be to make or preferably
purchase a ground Morse taper 3 alignment bar with about 12” of
straight length. I have such a bar that I purchased from an eBay
seller a few years back. I also have a MT2 alignment bare which is
useful for checking the tailstock and will work on a 6” Atlas
lathe spindle. Clean the spindle taper, install the bar in the
spindle, and use a dial indicator and mag base on the carriage to
check both vertical and horizontal alignment running the dial
indicator back and forth on the top and front or rear face of the
alignment bar.
Perhaps you could achieve the same check if you had a nice new
three jaw chuck installed on the spindle and used a nice straight
length of 3/4 or 1” diameter drill rod instead of the alignment
bar in the spindle taper.
I have several pdf’s on lathe alignment and various methods of
checking lathe alignment and condition if you think those would be
useful to you let me know and I will send them to you via email.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
_
|
Re: New half nut installation
those are some pretty nice lookin welds on the new nuts
??? ??? animal
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On 2/3/2019 3:38 PM, Steven H via Groups.Io wrote: Today I installed a pair of new brass half nuts on my 12” Atlas model
3996 underdrive cabinet lathe. Bought the half nuts from an eBay
seller. No problems with the install. Photos of the inside face of the
apron assembly are below if anyone hasn’t ever seen that view before.
I, for one, had never had my apron assembly off the lathe (I bought
the lathe about 3 years ago from the son of the original owner in
pristine condition). If you follow the instructions that Atlas and the
eBay seller provide with the new half nuts, Atlas wants you to remove
the tailstock assembly from the RH end of the bed, remove the two
screws holding the RH leadscrew bearing bracket, place the carriage
about half way down the bed, engage the half nuts, move the carriage
to the right a few inches which pulls the leadscrew from the gearbox,
then remove the leadscrew from the carriage, then move the carriage
down to the RH end if the bed and hang it over the end of the bed
about 5 inches so you can access the half nut mechanism.
In my case, that process wasn’t possible as I have my cabinet leveled
and lagged down to the floor and about 3 feet from the RH end of the
bed is a garage wall. So removing the four foot plus length of
leadscrew would not be possible without drilling a hole through the
wall or unbolting the cabinet from the floor and moving it.
An alternative method for new half nut install is to remove the RH
leadscrew bearing bracket screws, pull the leadscrew out of the
gearbox using the above Atlas procedure, then loosen and remove the
two cap screws from the top of the saddle that hold the apron in
place. The apron and leadscrew come right off the bottom of the
saddle, then you can take it to a bench, turn it over and work on
installing new half nuts after removing the leadscrew. The inside of
my apron was not very dirty or full of swarf, but I cleaned it up as
well was the leadscrew.
I needed to replace my half nuts as about a week ago I needed to cut a
LH thread which requires driving the carriage toward the tailstock end
of the lathe. The carriage seemed to feed left without a problem, but
was not feeding consistently to the right. I found the old half nuts
(Atlas ZAMAK pieces) were pretty shot, not much left of the threads in
the lower nut and the upper nut was about half gone. Hope this helps
anyone else facing this task as the alternative method of removing the
apron seems easier than the Atlas method.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
|
Re: How to align spindle to bed
On 02/03/2019 02:43 PM, Robert Duvall wrote: hi guys have looked around at the files and can’t find out
how to check alignment of the spindle to the bed. Aka to
made sure the spindle is paralleling the bed ways. Well, on a Timken bearing lathe, it is fairly hard for this to get OUT of alignment. The headstock is an interference fit into the inner faces of the bed ways, and unless chips or whatever was left between the headstock and bed, it should sit flat on the top ways. If you have Babbit bearings that are worn, the spindle can be tilted so you cut tapers, but there's no simple "adjustment" for that. Generally, new bearings need to be poured and scraped in. Well, if you have a dial test indicator and a hardened and ground bar of known straightness and roundness, you can chuck that up, and rotate the chuck to make sure it is held without wobble. Then, you can put the indicator in the toolpost and run it up and down the bar to check for misalignment. Jon
|
Re: New half nut installation
??? ??? I replaced my half nuts a short while back with a brass
pair cast and machined by a friend. Oddly the original 1968 pair
were almost completely unworn! Not only did I remove the apron
while replacing the half nuts I replaced the screws with SHCS
against future needs!?? Bill in Boulder CO USA
On 2/3/19 4:38 PM, Steven H via
Groups.Io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Today I installed a pair of new brass half nuts on my 12” Atlas
model 3996 underdrive cabinet lathe. Bought the half nuts from an
eBay seller. No problems with the install. Photos of the inside
face of the apron assembly are below if anyone hasn’t ever seen
that view before. I, for one, had never had my apron assembly off
the lathe (I bought the lathe about 3 years ago from the son of
the original owner in pristine condition). If you follow the
instructions that Atlas and the eBay seller provide with the new
half nuts, Atlas wants you to remove the tailstock assembly from
the RH end of the bed, remove the two screws holding the RH
leadscrew bearing bracket, place the carriage about half way down
the bed, engage the half nuts, move the carriage to the right a
few inches which pulls the leadscrew from the gearbox, then remove
the leadscrew from the carriage, then move the carriage down to
the RH end if the bed and hang it over the end of the bed about 5
inches so you can access the half nut mechanism.
In my case, that process wasn’t possible as I have my cabinet
leveled and lagged down to the floor and about 3 feet from the RH
end of the bed is a garage wall. So removing the four foot plus
length of leadscrew would not be possible without drilling a hole
through the wall or unbolting the cabinet from the floor and
moving it.
An alternative method for new half nut install is to remove the RH
leadscrew bearing bracket screws, pull the leadscrew out of the
gearbox using the above Atlas procedure, then loosen and remove
the two cap screws from the top of the saddle that hold the apron
in place. The apron and leadscrew come right off the bottom of the
saddle, then you can take it to a bench, turn it over and work on
installing new half nuts after removing the leadscrew. The inside
of my apron was not very dirty or full of swarf, but I cleaned it
up as well was the leadscrew.
I needed to replace my half nuts as about a week ago I needed to
cut a LH thread which requires driving the carriage toward the
tailstock end of the lathe. The carriage seemed to feed left
without a problem, but was not feeding consistently to the right.
I found the old half nuts (Atlas ZAMAK pieces) were pretty shot,
not much left of the threads in the lower nut and the upper nut
was about half gone. Hope this helps anyone else facing this task
as the alternative method of removing the apron seems easier than
the Atlas method.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
|
Re: How to align spindle to bed
What I did was very practical. I needed to bore a 2" hole 4" deep, straight and true to a tolerance of .0002". I began boring way early and simply experimented at shimming the legs until I had a straight hole rather than a taper. So far so good...
Rick H
On Sun, Feb 3, 2019 at 7:18 PM Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab= [email protected]> wrote: In my opinion, the vertical surface of the bed least likely to have any significant wear since new is the rear of the front way.? To check alignment against that surface you will need ? (1)??? a dial indicator somehow attached to a piece of steel angle (whose inner corner has been relieved slightly) and at a height to put the plunger on center.? (2)??? A length of precision ground round bar about 12” long or longer.? (3)??? A means of holding the round bar in the spindle. ? Zero the indicator at the headstock end of the round bar while holding the vertical surface of the angle firmly against the rear of the front way.? Slide the angle down to the right end of the bar and note the reading.? In a perfect world, the reading would still be zero if the spindle axis is parallel to the bed axis. ? In the real world, there will probably be runout and wobble.? To get a handle on these, at a minimum you would need two indicators, the one at 9:00 and a second one at 12:00.? I would zero the 9:00 indicator at the median fore and aft reading and the 12:00 one 90 degrees later (with the spindle being rotated Clockwise as seen from the ?tailstock).? Note the indicator readings at both ends at four locations 90 degrees apart as you rotate the spindle.? This will roughly generate two circles.? If the two circles are the same diameter and the centers are at the same point, you have runout but no wobble and the spindle and bar holder combination is parallel to the rear of the front way.? And so forth through the other possible scenarios.. ? Robert Downs ? ? hi guys have looked around at the files and can’t find out how to check alignment of the spindle to the bed. Aka to made sure the spindle is paralleling the bed ways. Thanks for the help this group is awesome. Bob
|
Re: How to align spindle to bed
In my opinion, the vertical surface of the bed least likely to have any significant wear since new is the rear of the front way.? To check alignment against that surface you will need ? (1)??? a dial indicator somehow attached to a piece of steel angle (whose inner corner has been relieved slightly) and at a height to put the plunger on center.? (2)??? A length of precision ground round bar about 12” long or longer.? (3)??? A means of holding the round bar in the spindle. ? Zero the indicator at the headstock end of the round bar while holding the vertical surface of the angle firmly against the rear of the front way.? Slide the angle down to the right end of the bar and note the reading.? In a perfect world, the reading would still be zero if the spindle axis is parallel to the bed axis. ? In the real world, there will probably be runout and wobble.? To get a handle on these, at a minimum you would need two indicators, the one at 9:00 and a second one at 12:00.? I would zero the 9:00 indicator at the median fore and aft reading and the 12:00 one 90 degrees later (with the spindle being rotated Clockwise as seen from the ?tailstock).? Note the indicator readings at both ends at four locations 90 degrees apart as you rotate the spindle.? This will roughly generate two circles.? If the two circles are the same diameter and the centers are at the same point, you have runout but no wobble and the spindle and bar holder combination is parallel to the rear of the front way.? And so forth through the other possible scenarios.. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Robert Duvall
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2019 14:44
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] How to align spindle to bed? hi guys have looked around at the files and can’t find out how to check alignment of the spindle to the bed. Aka to made sure the spindle is paralleling the bed ways. Thanks for the help this group is awesome. Bob
|
Re: New half nut installation
Good opportunity to clean up the innards as I see you've done! Looks nice.? Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: "Steven H via Groups.Io" <stevesmachining@...> Date: 2/3/19 17:38 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] New half nut installation
Today I installed a pair of new brass half nuts on my 12” Atlas model 3996 underdrive cabinet lathe. Bought the half nuts from an eBay seller. No problems with the install. Photos of the inside face of the apron assembly are below if anyone hasn’t ever seen that view before. I, for one, had never had my apron assembly off the lathe (I bought the lathe about 3 years ago from the son of the original owner in pristine condition). If you follow the instructions that Atlas and the eBay seller provide with the new half nuts, Atlas wants you to remove the tailstock assembly from the RH end of the bed, remove the two screws holding the RH leadscrew bearing bracket, place the carriage about half way down the bed, engage the half nuts, move the carriage to the right a few inches which pulls the leadscrew from the gearbox, then remove the leadscrew from the carriage, then move the carriage down to the RH end if the bed and hang it over the end of the bed about 5 inches so you can access the half nut mechanism. In my case, that process wasn’t possible as I have my cabinet leveled and lagged down to the floor and about 3 feet from the RH end of the bed is a garage wall. So removing the four foot plus length of leadscrew would not be possible without drilling a hole through the wall or unbolting the cabinet from the floor and moving it. An alternative method for new half nut install is to remove the RH leadscrew bearing bracket screws, pull the leadscrew out of the gearbox using the above Atlas procedure, then loosen and remove the two cap screws from the top of the saddle that hold the apron in place. The apron and leadscrew come right off the bottom of the saddle, then you can take it to a bench, turn it over and work on installing new half nuts after removing the leadscrew. The inside of my apron was not very dirty or full of swarf, but I cleaned it up as well was the leadscrew. I needed to replace my half nuts as about a week ago I needed to cut a LH thread which requires driving the carriage toward the tailstock end of the lathe. The carriage seemed to feed left without a problem, but was not feeding consistently to the right. I found the old half nuts (Atlas ZAMAK pieces) were pretty shot, not much left of the threads in the lower nut and the upper nut was about half gone. Hope this helps anyone else facing this task as the alternative method of removing the apron seems easier than the Atlas method. Steve Haskell Troy, MI
|
Re: How to align spindle to bed
One way to do it, costs some money, would be to make or preferably purchase a ground Morse taper 3 alignment bar with about 12” of straight length. I have such a bar that I purchased from an eBay seller a few years back. I also have a MT2 alignment bare which is useful for checking the tailstock and will work on a 6” Atlas lathe spindle. Clean the spindle taper, install the bar in the spindle, and use a dial indicator and mag base on the carriage to check both vertical and horizontal alignment running the dial indicator back and forth on the top and front or rear face of the alignment bar.
Perhaps you could achieve the same check if you had a nice new three jaw chuck installed on the spindle and used a nice straight length of 3/4 or 1” diameter drill rod instead of the alignment bar in the spindle taper.
I have several pdf’s on lathe alignment and various methods of checking lathe alignment and condition if you think those would be useful to you let me know and I will send them to you via email.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
|
Re: How to align spindle to bed
On Sunday, February 3, 2019 12:43:54 PM MST you wrote: hi guys have looked around at the files and can’t find out how to check
alignment of the spindle to the bed. Aka to made sure the spindle is
paralleling the bed ways. Thanks for the help this group is awesome. Bob Most methods start with a parallel test bar - a bar that fits the spindle taper with a longish section ground round and true to the taper. Pop it in the spindle and measure the TIR in a few places, marking the bar with a sharpie every couple of inches. The TIR should remain on the same side of the bar and be linear with distance from the starting point. If the TIR remains 0 all the way down the bar you're in luck - the lathe bed is straight and aligned with the lathe spindle. If you can't/won't get a test bar you can do the same with a chunk of good round stock - I'd suggest Thompson bar or similar as it's round and straight. You'll want bar that's not less than 1" and it has to be straight - like roll between V blocks on a surface plate and a tenths indicator with no errors straight. Mount the bar in a 4 jaw chuck and center it, then do the same tests. You'll likely find that you want to level the bed beforehand with a precision level (.001"/ft or better) so that you know there's no twist in the bed.
|
New half nut installation
Today I installed a pair of new brass half nuts on my 12” Atlas model 3996 underdrive cabinet lathe. Bought the half nuts from an eBay seller. No problems with the install. Photos of the inside face of the apron assembly are below if anyone hasn’t ever seen that view before. I, for one, had never had my apron assembly off the lathe (I bought the lathe about 3 years ago from the son of the original owner in pristine condition). If you follow the instructions that Atlas and the eBay seller provide with the new half nuts, Atlas wants you to remove the tailstock assembly from the RH end of the bed, remove the two screws holding the RH leadscrew bearing bracket, place the carriage about half way down the bed, engage the half nuts, move the carriage to the right a few inches which pulls the leadscrew from the gearbox, then remove the leadscrew from the carriage, then move the carriage down to the RH end if the bed and hang it over the end of the bed about 5 inches so you can access the half nut mechanism.
In my case, that process wasn’t possible as I have my cabinet leveled and lagged down to the floor and about 3 feet from the RH end of the bed is a garage wall. So removing the four foot plus length of leadscrew would not be possible without drilling a hole through the wall or unbolting the cabinet from the floor and moving it.
An alternative method for new half nut install is to remove the RH leadscrew bearing bracket screws, pull the leadscrew out of the gearbox using the above Atlas procedure, then loosen and remove the two cap screws from the top of the saddle that hold the apron in place. The apron and leadscrew come right off the bottom of the saddle, then you can take it to a bench, turn it over and work on installing new half nuts after removing the leadscrew. The inside of my apron was not very dirty or full of swarf, but I cleaned it up as well was the leadscrew.
I needed to replace my half nuts as about a week ago I needed to cut a LH thread which requires driving the carriage toward the tailstock end of the lathe. The carriage seemed to feed left without a problem, but was not feeding consistently to the right. I found the old half nuts (Atlas ZAMAK pieces) were pretty shot, not much left of the threads in the lower nut and the upper nut was about half gone. Hope this helps anyone else facing this task as the alternative method of removing the apron seems easier than the Atlas method.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
|
That could only work in a perfect world,? kind of like a perfect 3 jaw chuck that compensates for everything.? Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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-------- Original message -------- From: Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> Date: 2/3/19 16:53 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
I would like an iris instead of the set screws.
Ralph
On Sun, Feb 3, 2019 at 5:44 PM Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote: No worries Dave, I've been getting them.
I think I do like the idea of the set sews on the spider bolts any sort of jam nut. -Jody -------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks < dpm100@...> Date: 2/3/19 2:36 PM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
Sorry for the multiple replies! Got some slow....... internet today! Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 2:19 PM dpm100@... wrote:
Hi Guys,
For whatever reason I couldn't reply to Bill's post regarding spider plans. Permanent Error!
Anyway, I just looked at it. Looks like the same idea as my concept sketch.
I would not use soft tip adjusting screws on anything polished, blued, plated or otherwise finished.They will slightly mar the material due to the rotating action. Think about turning the steering wheel at a dead stop, plenty of abrading and embedding going on.
You need something stationary to separate the screws from the work, wrap a piece of brass shim stock, maybe .010" thick around it. Only pressure instead of rotating. Could do the same with the chuck jaws but I prefer a piece of paper folded in half, torn to around the circumference of the part and wrapped around. Cheap, easy and very effective.
I can't stand any kind of marks on something that's supposed to look like new, no scratches either.
Not a fan of the jam nuts. Once adjusted, tightening the nuts will loosen the screws a little.
?Just my thoughts,
Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi Jody,?
Never made one for the Atlas but I might.?
Here's my thought.?
Replace the threaded collar/nut on left end of the spindle with something like this.?
First thing that popped into my head.?
Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2/3/19 08:37 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
[Edited Message Follows] Topic should be Making Spider.
Eventually I'd like to be able to do a little barrel work and have been checking out various methods of indicating off the bore.
I was curious if anybody made a spider for the back end of the spindle.? Of course this cold be used to keep any stock steady.
Thanks,
Jody (DFW)
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If you go that way, soft point set screws don't work. Need to have a little slug to bear against the threads of the part you're trying to lock or at least restrain.? Material choice depends on application.?
Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 2/3/19 16:44 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
No worries Dave, I've been getting them.
I think I do like the idea of the set sews on the spider bolts any sort of jam nut. -Jody -------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 2/3/19 2:36 PM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
Sorry for the multiple replies! Got some slow....... internet today! Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 2:19 PM dpm100@... wrote:
Hi Guys,
For whatever reason I couldn't reply to Bill's post regarding spider plans. Permanent Error!
Anyway, I just looked at it. Looks like the same idea as my concept sketch.
I would not use soft tip adjusting screws on anything polished, blued, plated or otherwise finished.They will slightly mar the material due to the rotating action. Think about turning the steering wheel at a dead stop, plenty of abrading and embedding going on.
You need something stationary to separate the screws from the work, wrap a piece of brass shim stock, maybe .010" thick around it. Only pressure instead of rotating. Could do the same with the chuck jaws but I prefer a piece of paper folded in half, torn to around the circumference of the part and wrapped around. Cheap, easy and very effective.
I can't stand any kind of marks on something that's supposed to look like new, no scratches either.
Not a fan of the jam nuts. Once adjusted, tightening the nuts will loosen the screws a little.
?Just my thoughts,
Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi Jody,?
Never made one for the Atlas but I might.?
Here's my thought.?
Replace the threaded collar/nut on left end of the spindle with something like this.?
First thing that popped into my head.?
Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------
From: Jody <jp4lsu@...>
Date: 2/3/19 08:37 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
[Edited Message Follows] Topic should be Making Spider.
Eventually I'd like to be able to do a little barrel work and have been checking out various methods of indicating off the bore.
I was curious if anybody made a spider for the back end of the spindle.? Of course this cold be used to keep any stock steady.
Thanks,
Jody (DFW)
?
|
I would like an iris instead of the set screws.
Ralph
On Sun, Feb 3, 2019 at 5:44 PM Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote: No worries Dave, I've been getting them.
I think I do like the idea of the set sews on the spider bolts any sort of jam nut. -Jody -------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks < dpm100@...> Date: 2/3/19 2:36 PM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
Sorry for the multiple replies! Got some slow....... internet today! Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 2:19 PM dpm100@... wrote:
Hi Guys,
For whatever reason I couldn't reply to Bill's post regarding spider plans. Permanent Error!
Anyway, I just looked at it. Looks like the same idea as my concept sketch.
I would not use soft tip adjusting screws on anything polished, blued, plated or otherwise finished.They will slightly mar the material due to the rotating action. Think about turning the steering wheel at a dead stop, plenty of abrading and embedding going on.
You need something stationary to separate the screws from the work, wrap a piece of brass shim stock, maybe .010" thick around it. Only pressure instead of rotating. Could do the same with the chuck jaws but I prefer a piece of paper folded in half, torn to around the circumference of the part and wrapped around. Cheap, easy and very effective.
I can't stand any kind of marks on something that's supposed to look like new, no scratches either.
Not a fan of the jam nuts. Once adjusted, tightening the nuts will loosen the screws a little.
?Just my thoughts,
Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi Jody,?
Never made one for the Atlas but I might.?
Here's my thought.?
Replace the threaded collar/nut on left end of the spindle with something like this.?
First thing that popped into my head.?
Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2/3/19 08:37 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
[Edited Message Follows] Topic should be Making Spider.
Eventually I'd like to be able to do a little barrel work and have been checking out various methods of indicating off the bore.
I was curious if anybody made a spider for the back end of the spindle.? Of course this cold be used to keep any stock steady.
Thanks,
Jody (DFW)
?
?
|
No worries Dave, I've been getting them.
I think I do like the idea of the set sews on the spider bolts any sort of jam nut. -Jody
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 2/3/19 2:36 PM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
Sorry for the multiple replies! Got some slow....... internet today! Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 2:19 PM dpm100@... wrote:
Hi Guys,
For whatever reason I couldn't reply to Bill's post regarding spider plans. Permanent Error!
Anyway, I just looked at it. Looks like the same idea as my concept sketch.
I would not use soft tip adjusting screws on anything polished, blued, plated or otherwise finished.They will slightly mar the material due to the rotating action. Think about turning the steering wheel at a dead stop, plenty of abrading and embedding going on.
You need something stationary to separate the screws from the work, wrap a piece of brass shim stock, maybe .010" thick around it. Only pressure instead of rotating. Could do the same with the chuck jaws but I prefer a piece of paper folded in half, torn to around the circumference of the part and wrapped around. Cheap, easy and very effective.
I can't stand any kind of marks on something that's supposed to look like new, no scratches either.
Not a fan of the jam nuts. Once adjusted, tightening the nuts will loosen the screws a little.
?Just my thoughts,
Dave
On February 3, 2019 at 9:41 AM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi Jody,?
Never made one for the Atlas but I might.?
Here's my thought.?
Replace the threaded collar/nut on left end of the spindle with something like this.?
First thing that popped into my head.?
Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------
From: Jody <jp4lsu@...>
Date: 2/3/19 08:37 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Making Spide
[Edited Message Follows] Topic should be Making Spider.
Eventually I'd like to be able to do a little barrel work and have been checking out various methods of indicating off the bore.
I was curious if anybody made a spider for the back end of the spindle.? Of course this cold be used to keep any stock steady.
Thanks,
Jody (DFW)
?
|
How to align spindle to bed
hi guys have looked around at the files and can’t find out how to check alignment of the spindle to the bed. Aka to made sure the spindle is paralleling the bed ways. Thanks for the help this group is awesome. Bob
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