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Dave M said: Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help. Ken H said" "curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something

This is from maybe 1976, I'm older now with less hair. Won't fit an Atlas though! Dave

Bill, I think I might of had a problem with TouchDRO but Yuri jumped right in and solved the problem. Their forum also is very helpful. Of course I am always here or email rhulslander gmail I bought

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support GP

JodyYes a indicator in the front of the carriage is not good if a hot chip hits the lens of the indicator it will burn it, the lenses are plastic GP

I agree with Jon sandpaper on a shaft or M3 taper will follow the path of least resistance? GP

The taper can be reamed to clean but remember to support the end sticking out...If you indicate the reamer and it runs out you know the taper does too..

GP,Let me know, did a little looking this morning too.Found a 36" for around $77.00 shipped.?I'd be using this if I could read it somewhere besides at work!Thanks,?Dave? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G

I'd stick with the "B"Dave? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Hi, ? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan

If there are some big, raised bumps on the taper ID, then such a sanding tool might tend to follow the path of least resistance and end up with a perfect, but TILTED taper. By boring or grinding with

Hi Paul , In my experience you run the same risk as with the reamer if the damage / burring is at all uneven in that the shaft with emery paper will “ride” on the burr / high spot and cut away on

I have I-Gageing DRO's on a small table top mill they are fine for what they cost. I bought them from Tool-doc in Wisconsin he had the lowest price at the time. I e-mailed him if he still sells

Hey, Group: Jumping in on the Topic, though perhaps not the specific issue, with a question: Why not use a good MT3 shaft, wrap it in various (reducing) grits of sandpaper, and use that to remove any

Dave: Thanks for the comments. At the start of travel, the X scale protrudes 6" from the back edge of the way - at the end it protrudes just over 12". I just checked my receipts and find that the

Bill, Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well! How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that

Clover is a brand name for lapping compound. Dave

The real way to do it would be to grind the spindle. You need a taper attachment and a tool post grinder. A reamer would also get the job done GP

Dan C, I don't want to jump to any conclusions so I an curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound". Prussian Blue? Or some type of lapping compound?? IIRC my dad had something called

Accurately setting up may be a problem, but I think a boring bar is your best (but most difficult and risky) solution to knock off the high spots. Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT