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With all jaws out, crank the pinions until the outer scroll tooth approaches slot one.? Back off a bit.? Insert jaw #1, hold against the scroll and advance the pinion until it grabs jaw 1.? Advance

Well, there are several possibilities.? First, see if there is wobble on the outside of the chuck body.? If not, then the problem is in the jaws.? If the outside of the chuck has wobble or runout,

Here’s a YouTube video on converting a 3-jaw chuck into a ‘set-tru’ type: https://youtu.be/Ts_cUeo9QjU?si=HqGOpOkvm9ZwtS-y Steve Haskell

Yes, I did indicate backing plate od. Right about .0034. I had to avoid marking dimple for alignment to chuck itself. This leads me to believe it's a jaw issue with huge jump in runout. Thanks,

They start differently , turn all 3 jaws over next to each other & ya can see how their clocked . If I took my 3 jaws & put then next to each other the tallest steps were different thickness's . One

I have successfully torn down the chuck fully, quite a bit of chips in the small bevel gears that drive the scroll threads that close the jaws. Chips elsewhere, but not a large number, (only takes one

Before you even take it apart, verify the the jaws are in the right slots (each jaw and each slot is numbered) Also verify that each jaw was started sequentially at the right time when assembled.

I found if you loosen the cap screws on the back and tap them sequentially with a brass hammer or even a ball peen hammer you can usually split the chuck.

I will see if I can get it apart. Tried earlier. Backing plate is on tight. Thank you for the info. Not giving up yet. Guy Sent From iPad

the Sanou 3 jaw scroll chucks are real nice chucks . I bought one several years back due to my Cushman chuck being all messed up . I think I got it from These

First, disassemble the chuck, clean and lubricate it. Reassemble it making sure the chuck jaws go in the correct slots, and started at the correct times. Then try it again.? A really good

? ?Hi all, I am in the process of rehabbing a 3995 lathe. It was free and maybe I now know why. The runout on the spindle inner and outer diameter is really good. Like .0013. Screw on the chuck

Hemingway Kits also sells a couple different kits to make one , their quality is pretty top notch . They have a lot of different kits https://www.hemingwaykits.com/knurling-tools animal

I did just that in a class or two at Monroe Community College. As the old guy auditing the course they pointed me at the donated drops supply and said make stuff for your shop. The wheels came from

I'm almost crying. It's WAY too big for my shop. Last Clausing Colchester I looked at, a 13", was $6900 a few years ago. The school where I used one also had Clausing Colchester 15" lathes. Pretty

You can make your own scissor knurler, too. Except the knurls. Unless you need something special, in which case you can make them, too. Depends how deep down that rabbit hole you want to

??? Forgot to mention that the Dog Point screws in each tool holder are usually garbage , real soft screws . When I first got my tool holder set I went to my hardware co & bought a bag of 100 new

FYI, $3000 in Union City , OK no connection https://www.facebook.com/share/195F3U8ZLy/?mibextid=wwXIfr

I've knurled a handful of things using the old, atlas lantern style tools and the QC one that came with my Phase II AXA tool post. Since then I've stopped trying until I get a scissors type made or

The scissor type squeeze the part.? The other type PUSH on the part which puts strain on the bearings of the spindle.? Get the Scissor type or make one.? They are easy to make but have lots of