Re: Threading Gear Confusion
Stan, ? Each gear that can be mounted on the change gear bracket (AKA Banjo), plus the Screw Gear which is the one in line with the lead screw, can be mounted in either of two positions called F for Front (nearest the operator) and B for Back (nearest the headstock or lead screw).? This is true of the 10F models and all 12” models.? The first gear on the Banjo when mounted in the B position meshes with the 32T part of the Stud Gear.? When mounted in the F position, it meshes with the 16T part of the stud gear. Which gives a 2:1 speed reduction.? Why they on the threading charts called the Stud Gear the Spindle Stud Gear I have no idea.? On the 10” it is driven by the 32T spindle gear.? On the 12” charts it is called the Compound Tumbler Gear. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2019 11:24
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion? Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan
On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:
Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.
The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.
The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.
The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.
If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.
You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F
Robert Downs
*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion
I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe
Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?
I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan
|
Re: Threading Gear Confusion
Thanks, Robert. One other question. In the table attached to the heavy
cast iron cover is a column called 'Spindle Stud Gear.'? I'm assuming
this is the threading gear that is attached to the back end of the
headstock spindle. The one on my lathe has 32 teeth and in all images I
have seen of this lathe the gear is a 32 teeth gear. However, about half
of the entries in this column are for a 16 tooth gear. I have never seen
a 16 tooth gear that goes where the 32 teeth gear goes. I looked in the
manual I have. It never mentions a 16 tooth gear in any of its examples.
I have one gear that has two steps to it, the smaller is 16 teeth, and
the larger is 32 teeth. It has a 1/2" bore, certainly not the size to
fit on the headstock spindle. It appears from the diagrams that this is
the 16 tooth gear being talked about, but if it is, why even list it in
'Spindle Stud Gear' column because it is always the first gear that
comes in contact with the gear on the headstock spindle. Because it is
always the the first gear in contact with the headstock gear there is
nothing to change as the table implies by listing a 32 and 16 tooth gear
in this column. Could you clear up this confusion for me?
Stan
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On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:
Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.
The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.
The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.
The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.
If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.
You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F
Robert Downs
*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion
I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe
Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?
I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan
|
True GP, but a concrete top is really cool and if someone wants it, why not?
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A concrete top to put your lathe is not needed why. The lathe does not weigh that much besides one will never do work in a atlas/craftsman that is that heavy to justify a concrete work top. Just look what type of cabinets and support Atlas sold
GP
On Monday, February 11, 2019, 9:15:09 PM EST, Jim Korman <jimkorman@...> wrote:
Saw that video this weekend. Then showed it to my wife. Between us we've now got at least 3 different Spring projects planned. Would be interesting to see how well that would work as a work surface. I'd be interested how well it holds bolds for attaching
my lathe to the surface. I would think about 4-5 bags would be enough for my 12x18 as his table was just about the size of of my benchwork. That would give a top nearly 4 inches thick. One could even cast a bit of a sump under the lathe bed for stuff to accumulate!
--
Jim Korman
|
Could the twist have been induced by overtightening the bolts holding the lathe to a less than ideal countertop?
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For what ever reason my lathe bed has a vary slight twist to it. It needs a stronger bench to be attached to so the lathe can be shimmed to untwist the lathe bed so it is dead straight/level. I'm sure it probably left the factory straight but now it has
a twist probably due to stress in the casting.
Making a bench like this might be a good way to get a bench to what ever dimension you need and have it be strong enough and stable also.
If you don't need or want such a stable strong heavy duty bench does not mean no one else might.
|
Ncwonline How did you? discover a twist in the bed of your lathe. I have mine mounted on a 1 3/4 solid wood door for years no problem GP
On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 1:32:37 AM EST, <ncwonline@...> wrote:
For what ever reason my lathe bed has a vary slight twist to it. It needs a stronger bench to be attached to so the lathe can be shimmed to untwist the lathe bed so it is dead straight/level. I'm sure it probably left the factory straight but now it has a twist probably due to stress in the casting.
Making a bench like this might be a good way to get a bench to what ever dimension you need and have it be strong enough and stable also.
If you don't need or want such a stable strong heavy duty bench does not mean no one else might.
|
For what ever reason my lathe bed has a vary slight twist to it. It needs a stronger bench to be attached to so the lathe can be shimmed to untwist the lathe bed so it is dead straight/level. I'm sure it probably left the factory straight but now it has a twist probably due to stress in the casting.
Making a bench like this might be a good way to get a bench to what ever dimension you need and have it be strong enough and stable also.
If you don't need or want such a stable strong heavy duty bench does not mean no one else might.
|
A concrete top to put your lathe is not needed why. The lathe does not weigh that much besides one will never do work in a atlas/craftsman that is that heavy to justify a concrete work top. Just look what type of cabinets and support Atlas sold
GP
On Monday, February 11, 2019, 9:15:09 PM EST, Jim Korman <jimkorman@...> wrote:
Saw that video this weekend. Then showed it to my wife. Between us we've now got at least 3 different Spring projects planned. Would be interesting to see how well that would work as a work surface. I'd be interested how well it holds bolds for attaching my lathe to the surface. I would think about 4-5 bags would be enough for my 12x18 as his table was just about the size of of my benchwork. That would give a top nearly 4 inches thick. One could even cast a bit of a sump under the lathe bed for stuff to accumulate!
--
Jim Korman
|
Saw that video this weekend. Then showed it to my wife. Between us we've now got at least 3 different Spring projects planned. Would be interesting to see how well that would work as a work surface. I'd be interested how well it holds bolds for attaching my lathe to the surface. I would think about 4-5 bags would be enough for my 12x18 as his table was just about the size of of my benchwork. That would give a top nearly 4 inches thick. One could even cast a bit of a sump under the lathe bed for stuff to accumulate!
--
Jim Korman
|
Re: Threading Gear Confusion
Robert:?
I agree with Bob.?
Thanks for all the info you provide - especially doing so without being condescending to us uninformed.
Bill
|
Re: Threading Gear Confusion
Thanks Robert for the background on yourself. I myself have always wondered where and how you became so knowledgeable on these wonderful machines. You are amazing. Bob Duvall?
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On Feb 11, 2019, at 4:32 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io < wa5cab@...> wrote: I forgot to add that the “101” in the Atlas change gear part numbers being the same as the “101” in the Sears part numbers is just a coincidence.? Until the Clausing hands began to get the upper hand around 1957, Atlas had a pretty good part numbering system.? Unlike most companies, whatever part number was first assigned to a part stayed with it as long as it was in use on something.? There are still a handful of parts on the 3996 that were first assigned back in the early 1930’s.? The system was that the first one or more numbers and/or letters identified the first machine that it was used on.? Then there was a hyphen followed by a sequence number.? 9-1, for example, was the first part number assigned for the Atlas 9” lathe in probably the Summer of 1931.? The headstock was 9-2, and so on.? 9-101 just happened to be the next number when they got to the change gears.? And instead of the second change gear being 9-102, they added another hyphen and the tooth count. Revisions to a part got a suffix letter beginning with A.? The only thing that their system doesn’t do is tell you for sure whether or not a revised part was backwards compatible.? In most cases it isn’t because a revised part that was backwards compatible kept the same part number.? But there are a few exceptions to both rules. ? Robert Downs ? On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 3:22 PM Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab=[email protected]> wrote: Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the 9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8” faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and 96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same) and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves, bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years, they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the others. ?
|
Re: Threading Gear Confusion
I forgot to add that the “101” in the Atlas change gear part numbers being the same as the “101” in the Sears part numbers is just a coincidence.? Until the Clausing hands began to get the upper hand around 1957, Atlas had a pretty good part numbering system.? Unlike most companies, whatever part number was first assigned to a part stayed with it as long as it was in use on something.? There are still a handful of parts on the 3996 that were first assigned back in the early 1930’s.? The system was that the first one or more numbers and/or letters identified the first machine that it was used on.? Then there was a hyphen followed by a sequence number.? 9-1, for example, was the first part number assigned for the Atlas 9” lathe in probably the Summer of 1931.? The headstock was 9-2, and so on.? 9-101 just happened to be the next number when they got to the change gears.? And instead of the second change gear being 9-102, they added another hyphen and the tooth count. Revisions to a part got a suffix letter beginning with A.? The only thing that their system doesn’t do is tell you for sure whether or not a revised part was backwards compatible.? In most cases it isn’t because a revised part that was backwards compatible kept the same part number.? But there are a few exceptions to both rules. ? Robert Downs ?
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On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 3:22 PM Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab= [email protected]> wrote: Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the 9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8” faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and 96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same) and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves, bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years, they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the others. ?
|
Re: Threading Gear Confusion
Scanning, printing and selling manuals on WW-II, Korean War and Vietnam War US radio manuals has been a business of mine since 1999, and for many years before that I made and sold copies.? Around the end of 2011? I for whatever reason became interested in getting most of the rest of the accessories made for my Atlas 3996.? And in the course of that quest joined several internet groups.? I pretty soon learned that the availability of catalogs, manuals and parts lists was about the same or worse and the quality of what was available was generally as bad as it was with the radio manuals.? So I added them to my quest, except that other that in the few rare cases where someone wanted an actual hard copy reprint, I didn’t charge anything for them.? I have never been happy with a scan that wouldn’t produce a hard copy at least as good as the original, so I spend a lot of time cleaning up and in some cases correcting the scans.? And while I was at it, reading the manuals and in many cases the original drawings.? I’ve spent quite a few hours talking to several people at Clausing.? Plus since 1981 I’ve owned and used a 3996 and over the years most of its accessories.? And refurbished or parted out some of the bench models. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bryan Lund
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2019 15:19
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion? Robert, you are a fountain of Atlas knowledge. Can you illuminate for the group how you came to acquire all of this information? ? On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 3:22 PM Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab=[email protected]> wrote: Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the 9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8” faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and 96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same) and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves, bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years, they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the others. ? The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is called the Stud Gear.? ? The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16” thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears and definitely have no use for a 96T gear. ? The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number. ? If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your machine.
You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the documentation simply means “tooth”.? It is not part of a part number and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston.? But so long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F
? Robert Downs ? ? I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe ?
Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?
I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan
--
|
Re: Threading Gear Confusion
Robert, you are a fountain of Atlas knowledge. Can you illuminate for the group how you came to acquire all of this information?
Bryan
On Mon, Feb 11, 2019 at 3:22 PM Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab= [email protected]> wrote: Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the 9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8” faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and 96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same) and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves, bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years, they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the others. ? The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is called the Stud Gear.? ? The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16” thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears and definitely have no use for a 96T gear. ? The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number. ? If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your machine.
You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the documentation simply means “tooth”.? It is not part of a part number and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston.? But so long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F
? Robert Downs ? ? I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe ?
Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?
I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan
|
Re: Threading Gear Confusion
Thanks everyone for the explanation.
Stan
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Show quoted text
On 2/11/2019 1:22 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:
Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and
today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the
9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8”
faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and
96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of
the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the
Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the
gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same)
and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves,
bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all
became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the
non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear
and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years,
they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the
others.
The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same
time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is
called the Stud Gear.
The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16”
thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made
this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears
and definitely have no use for a 96T gear.
The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in
the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number.
If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed
bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your
machine.
You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the
documentation simply means “tooth”. It is not part of a part number
and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a
gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of
lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston. But so
long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F
Robert Downs
*From:*[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
*On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion
I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe
Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?
I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan
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Re: Threading Gear Confusion
Ignoring the gears for the 6”, which are smaller, between 1932 and today, Atlas/Clausing made two versions of the change gears for the 9”, 10” and 12” lathes.? From 1932 until about 1937 they all had 3/8” faces and 3/8” hubs and were made with tooth counts between 20T and 96T.? These all had part numbers which are also cast into the gears of the form 9-101-nn, where “nn” is the tooth count.? Beginning with the Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07362, 101.07382 and 101.07402, the gears were changed to 1/2” hubs (everything else remaining the same) and the cast-in part numbers became 9-101-nnA.? The bolts, sleeves, bushings, spacers and the shafts that the screw gear mounts on all became 1/8” longer.? After a few years, Atlas ceased production of the non-A gears except for the 96T and instead you had to buy an “A” gear and face off 1/16” from each end of the hub.? After a few more years, they quit making the 96T and they are more difficult to find than the others. ? The “A” suffix gears were only made up through 64T because at the same time, they introduced the 32T/16T compound gear which on the 10F is called the Stud Gear.? ? The non-A gears can be installed on the 10F but it requires two 1/16” thick double-keyed spacers for each gear so used.? Atlas never made this thin spacers.? So basically, you have no use for the non-A gears and definitely have no use for a 96T gear. ? The gear charts do not specify the non-A gears.? The gear numbers in the charts are the tooth counts, not part of the part number. ? If you have a 64T gear with a hub ID larger than the double-keyed bushings, it did not come from Atlas and does not belong with your machine.
You also do not need a non-A 64T gear.? And the T used in some of the documentation simply means “tooth”.? It is not part of a part number and it does not appear on any of the Atlas made gears.? If you have a gear that does, it did not come from Atlas but from some other make of lathe or was made from a stock gear from some OEM like Boston.? But so long as it has a 1/2” hub and 3/8” face, it is usable on your 10F
? Robert Downs ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2019 23:18
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Threading Gear Confusion? I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe ?
Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?
I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan
|
Re: Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut
Raymond? One of the e-bay 1/2 nut sellers is not far from me there is nothing wrong with the brass he uses its not straight brass, it meant for bearing use. Now i feel that delron is questionable. I first hand experience with plastics, plastic? will never replace metal?
GP
On Sunday, February 10, 2019, 12:25:10 PM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
I don't think brass would be my choice either.? I'm in the process of making a set of tumbler gears for a Rockwell 11" lathe.? 932 bronze was actually cheaper than brass would have been.? Kind of strange but McMaster had the best price, less than half of Alro!? New shaft and bored levers straight and round.? Couple pics.? Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: mondosmetals <jwrey@...> Date: 2/5/19 08:22 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut
BTW: I am not certain brass is the best choice of material. I think the E-Bay sellers are machining them from brass because it is a common material, easy to machine, and is much softer than the leadscrew and will be kind to it. I would prefer C932 Bearing Bronze (aka SAE 660 bronze). I asked one of the sellers who was making them in his shop if he could do it in bronze but he declined. Bearing bronze is about 30-40% more costly than C360 brass. Alas, I do not have the machinery nor have I yet acquired the skill set to make them myself.? Meanwhile, the ZAMAK split nuts for a 3/4" leadscrew are still available from Clausing. Raymond
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I was just doing some research [wasting time] on YouTube and came across a guy building a table top using concrete mortar mix. It is impressive, because it is so easy and would make a great lathe bench. Or at least that is what I thought after watching it. I was thinking about finding a section of granite counter top large enough to use as a lathe bench but this is better. Better because I can make it any dimension I want, it is super strong, it can be light or it can be heavy as you wish and you ever try to drill granite? Lets just say this, you definitely don't want to, it takes diamond bits and it is hell.
The cast bench top can be made heavy in an attempt to strengthen the lathe and damp vibration. The mortar mix is "much" stronger then regular concrete. It can be poured from 1 inch to 6 inches thick, sets up super fast, has very little shrinkage and can even be deployed in as little as an hour. In the video the guy used a plasticizer additive that smooths out the mix and makes it much more easy to work.
if this interest you watch the video, the guy does a good job on the video, it moves right along and is detailed enough so you can easily replicate what he does with little special skills,or if you got concrete skills you could do some very cool stuff with this mortar mix method. I'm thinking if I do this, and I probably will, I am going to attempt to cast some custom I-beam lags for my lathe bench with round holes in the main beam section and precast holes for bolting the legs on and inserts for leveling feet. You could even make your cast bench top special made with pre-drilled plates to use the cast lathe bench lags. I have a set, my lathe came on but I wanted something more heave duty so I made a rolling workbench out of those.
You could use blocks of wood embedded in the mold to make voids in the cast bench for lighter weight but with a honey cone or square relief pattern on the bottom for strength and lightness. If you watch the video you can see what I mean on how you could place these into the mold. On the video he made the mold out of melamine faced particle board and the top of the pour is actually the bottom of his table. If I did it, I would make the bottom of the mold the bottom of the bench. Then trowel finish and level the top of the poured concrete while embedding 2 large plates with pre-drilled and threaded holes for bolting the lathe down. The mounting plates would only need be "close" to level, you would be shimming it to level the lathe bed perfectly any way. I can tell you, it is worth getting a precision level and going through the trouble to level your lathe bed to perfection. I see the difference in Turing longer items and my saddle and my tail stock ride the entire length of their travel much smoother then before the lathe was leveled.
If you do some research on precast concrete you can see the applications for this mortar mix could well be almost unlimited if you want to get creative making things. The mortar mix is not cheap but neither is steel or good wood. In fact this looks like it could be reasonably cheaper then steel or wood and better due to the possible vibration damping effect. The guy in the video used 2 55 lb bags of mortar mix and his table is 1.5 inches thick, he did not give dimensions that I saw but his table is reasonably good sized.
The concrete bench top could be painted with any color epoxy concrete sealer or garage floor paint/sealer and it would look a lot nicer then raw concrete and be oil proof, well, as much as any garage floor epoxy would be any way.
Let me know if you like this idea or you think I might be better off making a set of concrete boots and being thrown into a lake... haha
~
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I am confused by the gears for my Atlas 10F lathe
Almost all my threading gears (called change gears?) have an 'A' after
the number designation, like 24A. I also have a 24. The width of the
thread is identical between the two. The only difference I can see is
that each side of the gear is very slightly wider in the 24A. Is this
the difference between a 'A' and a non-'A'? Like I said most of my
change gears are the 'A' type, but the (heavy, hinged) gear cover that
has the table of the gears needed to make a thread all specify the
non-'A' type. Since nearly all my gears are the 'A' type, do I have
another problem?
I was looking for another 64 gear, without the 'A', on the internet. I
saw one that said '64 T'. The center bore was about 5/8" but the bore of
my 64 gear is 3/4". It appears this may be the difference between a 'T'
and a non-'T', but the image of the gear did not say 64T. It said 64. If
it were not for the seller being aware of where the 64 came from, one
could buy a wrong gear. Is this an atypical situation, or is it common
for a 'T' gear to not say it is a 'T' gear on the side?
Stan
|
Re: My Frankenstein Atlas
I have to go look.... but I think my 10F has the same teeth....?
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Stan Gorodenski
Robert
Bill Buckalew