Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator
I have I-Gageing DRO's on a small table top mill they are fine for what they cost. I bought them from Tool-doc in Wisconsin he had the lowest price at the time. I e-mailed him if he still sells them??
GP
On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 8:47:52 AM EST, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io <bill70j@...> wrote:
Dave:
Thanks for the comments.
At the start of travel, the X scale protrudes 6" from the back edge of the way - at the end it protrudes just over 12".
I just checked my receipts and find that the set-up I have on my X is the 6" Igaging scale, not the 12" that I put in my prior message.? So you are right.? My mistake!
Good luck on getting your DRO installed!
Bill
On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:46:23 AM PST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Bill, Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well!
How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that could interfere if the scale stuck out too far, didn't do any serious measuring or thinking about it yet though. Seems like I could almost get by with a 6" scale, there's just over 6" of travel from the points where the nut falls off the screw. Depends if there's any overtravel or maybe cut off a longer scale.
I have a 12X36 cabinet base model that really needs a readout at least on the carriage! I have a perfect Newall 36" travel scale and transducer taken from a Bridgeport that I'd love to use but haven't found a display for a reasonable price. Also have a "spare" Travadial but the Atlas won't like it.
I did talk to another guy in the group with the I-Gaging setup, he's happy with it. The price is right too.
Thanks for the pics.
Dave
On January 18, 2019 at 6:23 AM "Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io" <bill70j@...> wrote:
?
qanthony87:
Here are some pics of the DRO installed on my Atlas 10F.
It is an I-Gaging EZ-View 24" scale on the Y and 12" scale on the X.
It is accurate and repeatable, and cost under $100.
HTH,? Bill
On Thursday, January 17, 2019, 3:48:32 PM PST, qanthony87 <aquinn50@...> wrote:
Bill how¡¯s about some pics ?
On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io < bill70j@...> wrote: ?
Jody:
Agree.? I think you are right on point.? No need for an indicator if you have DRO.? But the stop comes in handy at times if you're in a hurry or are just lazy, like me.??
Adding XY DRO's (dumb, but effective and cheap I-Gaging DRO's) to the Atlas was one of the best upgrades I made, second only to the QCTP.
Bill
On Wednesday, January 16, 2019, 11:50:35 AM PST, Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote:
Guenther,
You make a good point about the swarf.? I was using mine on a mighty mag and had it setup up behind the carriage.? It worked ok, with exception of the magnet part of it.? I'm thinking of doing something that can hold the indicator and have a stop between the indicator and the ways.? Doing this I can take my measurements with the dial and then set my stop and then take the dial out of the holder to keep it away from the swarf.
Thanks for mentioning that, I didn't think about that aspect of it yet.?
Maybe I just go all DRO and forget this...Haha!
Thanks for the input, swarf is now going to be taken into account.
-Jody
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Morse Taper Spindle Finish (Another idea)
Hey, Group: Jumping in on the Topic, though perhaps not the specific issue, with a question: Why not use a good MT3 shaft, wrap it in various (reducing) grits of sandpaper, and use that to remove any grooves or variations from the female (spindle) side? You could use water, thin oil, or a low-tack adhesive to hold the sandpaper in-place¡and it¡¯s a lot cheaper than a reamer¡ ? Paul DeLisle
Salado, TX
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Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator
Dave:
Thanks for the comments.
At the start of travel, the X scale protrudes 6" from the back edge of the way - at the end it protrudes just over 12".
I just checked my receipts and find that the set-up I have on my X is the 6" Igaging scale, not the 12" that I put in my prior message.? So you are right.? My mistake!
Good luck on getting your DRO installed!
Bill
On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:46:23 AM PST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Bill, Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well!
How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that could interfere if the scale stuck out too far, didn't do any serious measuring or thinking about it yet though. Seems like I could almost get by with a 6" scale, there's just over 6" of travel from the points where the nut falls off the screw. Depends if there's any overtravel or maybe cut off a longer scale.
I have a 12X36 cabinet base model that really needs a readout at least on the carriage! I have a perfect Newall 36" travel scale and transducer taken from a Bridgeport that I'd love to use but haven't found a display for a reasonable price. Also have a "spare" Travadial but the Atlas won't like it.
I did talk to another guy in the group with the I-Gaging setup, he's happy with it. The price is right too.
Thanks for the pics.
Dave
On January 18, 2019 at 6:23 AM "Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io" <bill70j@...> wrote:
?
qanthony87:
Here are some pics of the DRO installed on my Atlas 10F.
It is an I-Gaging EZ-View 24" scale on the Y and 12" scale on the X.
It is accurate and repeatable, and cost under $100.
HTH,? Bill
On Thursday, January 17, 2019, 3:48:32 PM PST, qanthony87 <aquinn50@...> wrote:
Bill how¡¯s about some pics ?
On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io < bill70j@...> wrote: ?
Jody:
Agree.? I think you are right on point.? No need for an indicator if you have DRO.? But the stop comes in handy at times if you're in a hurry or are just lazy, like me.??
Adding XY DRO's (dumb, but effective and cheap I-Gaging DRO's) to the Atlas was one of the best upgrades I made, second only to the QCTP.
Bill
On Wednesday, January 16, 2019, 11:50:35 AM PST, Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote:
Guenther,
You make a good point about the swarf.? I was using mine on a mighty mag and had it setup up behind the carriage.? It worked ok, with exception of the magnet part of it.? I'm thinking of doing something that can hold the indicator and have a stop between the indicator and the ways.? Doing this I can take my measurements with the dial and then set my stop and then take the dial out of the holder to keep it away from the swarf.
Thanks for mentioning that, I didn't think about that aspect of it yet.?
Maybe I just go all DRO and forget this...Haha!
Thanks for the input, swarf is now going to be taken into account.
-Jody
|
Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator
Bill, Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well!
How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that could interfere if the scale stuck out too far, didn't do any serious measuring or thinking about it yet though. Seems like I could almost get by with a 6" scale, there's just over 6" of travel from the points where the nut falls off the screw. Depends if there's any overtravel or maybe cut off a longer scale.
I have a 12X36 cabinet base model that really needs a readout at least on the carriage! I have a perfect Newall 36" travel scale and transducer taken from a Bridgeport that I'd love to use but haven't found a display for a reasonable price. Also have a "spare" Travadial but the Atlas won't like it.
I did talk to another guy in the group with the I-Gaging setup, he's happy with it. The price is right too.
Thanks for the pics.
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On January 18, 2019 at 6:23 AM "Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io" <bill70j@...> wrote:
?
qanthony87:
Here are some pics of the DRO installed on my Atlas 10F.
It is an I-Gaging EZ-View 24" scale on the Y and 12" scale on the X.
It is accurate and repeatable, and cost under $100.
HTH,? Bill
On Thursday, January 17, 2019, 3:48:32 PM PST, qanthony87 <aquinn50@...> wrote:
Bill how¡¯s about some pics ?
On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io < bill70j@...> wrote: ?
Jody:
Agree.? I think you are right on point.? No need for an indicator if you have DRO.? But the stop comes in handy at times if you're in a hurry or are just lazy, like me.??
Adding XY DRO's (dumb, but effective and cheap I-Gaging DRO's) to the Atlas was one of the best upgrades I made, second only to the QCTP.
Bill
On Wednesday, January 16, 2019, 11:50:35 AM PST, Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote:
Guenther,
You make a good point about the swarf.? I was using mine on a mighty mag and had it setup up behind the carriage.? It worked ok, with exception of the magnet part of it.? I'm thinking of doing something that can hold the indicator and have a stop between the indicator and the ways.? Doing this I can take my measurements with the dial and then set my stop and then take the dial out of the holder to keep it away from the swarf.
Thanks for mentioning that, I didn't think about that aspect of it yet.?
Maybe I just go all DRO and forget this...Haha!
Thanks for the input, swarf is now going to be taken into account.
-Jody
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Clover is a brand name for lapping compound. Dave
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On January 20, 2019 at 2:33 AM Ken Harrington <dreamcrafters@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows] Dan C, I don't want to jump to any conclusions so I an curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound". Prussian Blue? Or some type of lapping compound??
IIRC my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts.
Thanks, Ken H in AZ
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
The real way to do it would be to grind the spindle. You need a taper attachment and a tool post grinder. A reamer would also get the job done
GP
On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 3:47:40 AM EST, Ken Harrington <dreamcrafters@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
Dan C, I don't want to jump to any conclusions so I an curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound". Prussian Blue? Or some type of lapping compound?? IIRC my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts. Thanks, Ken H in AZ
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Dan C, I don't want to jump to any conclusions so I an curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound". Prussian Blue? Or some type of lapping compound??
IIRC my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts.
Thanks, Ken H in AZ
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Accurately setting up may be a problem, but I think a boring bar is your best (but most difficult and risky) solution to knock off the high spots.? Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help. ? Dan Coleman ?
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Re: Craftsman 113.196591 motor
Check VintageMachinery.com or OWWM.org (they have an electrical section). ? Dan Coleman
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Yea i think the Amazon one is the one he has. He better use a draw bar to keep it in the spindle
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 6:47:25 PM EST, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote:
Years ago I scored a surplus set of Morse taper reamers from 1
to 5 for $ 99 made in 1955 for the USN. Obviously 1000 ordered, 1200
made, 200 went into storage hoping for a high dollar follow on order.
Never came so finally sold off cheap! I clean up tapers before 10%
scoring which seem the point where they quit holding and score badly. So
find access to a MT 2 and 3 reamer and taking light cuts. The shavings
in oil should feel like heavy grease!?? Bill in Boulder CO USA. You
anywhere nearby?
On 1/19/19 7:58 AM, Brad wrote: Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up
last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm
really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Years ago I scored a surplus set of Morse taper reamers from 1
to 5 for $ 99 made in 1955 for the USN. Obviously 1000 ordered, 1200
made, 200 went into storage hoping for a high dollar follow on order.
Never came so finally sold off cheap! I clean up tapers before 10%
scoring which seem the point where they quit holding and score badly. So
find access to a MT 2 and 3 reamer and taking light cuts. The shavings
in oil should feel like heavy grease!?? Bill in Boulder CO USA. You
anywhere nearby?
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Show quoted text
On 1/19/19 7:58 AM, Brad wrote: Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up
last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm
really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.
|
Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
No, not sure.? Give them a call.? I talked to them twice, once before ordering and then again the next day after ordering.? Sure wanted to make sure you are successful.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 4:20:10 PM CST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Gary,
Andrei recommended the same kit. Do you know what grade of material it is?
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Gary,
Andrei recommended the same kit. Do you know what grade of material it is?
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Re: Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Forgot a couple pics last night but you figured it out.? I swing mine all the time.? Check a diameter, flip it up or down to check the face. Tap it around to get the face true and back to the diameter.? Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 1/19/19 08:41 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks everyone for the answers. I just went out and repositioned the tip back to vertical like yall suggested. Just forcing it to the desired position didn't seem right. I was worried about breaking it and the directions don't say anything about how to change the tip angle.??
So thank you for the answers. -Jody
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 1/18/19 8:46 PM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips Few more minutes.? As far as I know, they all swing. I use a test indicator 98% of the time unless I have a big offset in a 4 jaw.? If you're measuring, the angle of the point to the work is important, for the Interapid it's 8-10¡ã. If you just need true, zero is zero as long as you don't have the point near perpendicular!
Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> Date: 1/18/19 20:10 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Hi Jody,? Used to have a Mitutoyo indicator a long time ago, don't remember the details but my oldest Interapid at work is pushing 40 years old. The point swivels probably 200¡ã, just went and tried my new one in the basement! My dad had a Starrett Last Word with the "ratchet" but you could still swing it. Should be no worries.? Got some micrometer stop, DRO, indicator stuff to talk about but out of time today! Later, Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- From: Jody <jp4lsu@...> Date: 1/18/19 17:22 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Mitutoyo Test Indicator Tips
Thanks Russ. I'll take a look at it.? I thought that might all I had to do but I was scared to force it.
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
On 01/19/2019 10:42 AM, Brad wrote:
Jon, I do have a Dremel like tool with a flexible shaft. I did
think about grinding in a setup similar to a toolpost grinder, but
i'm concerned about rigidity and messing up the taper. My thought
was that if the inside of the spindle was soft enough to get all
banged up, maybe it would be soft enough for a MT reamer. Similar
to this...
Well, the problem is that this reamer may not go in straight, if the
taper is fairly chewed up, as you indicate it might be.? The Dremel
grinding WILL assure the taper is perfectly concentric, but it is up
to you to make the taper have the correct angle, and doing it with
the compound it WILL be pretty "fiddly" to get it just right.? I
have done this a few times, it takes steady hands and a lot of
patience to get it adjusted in.
Jon
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Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator
Thanks for the compliment, Ralph.
I have wanted to go with the Touch DRO, but every time I look at Yuri's site I am intimidated buy how little I know about that stuff.
But since you are using it on your mill, maybe I can ask you for help when I get stuck? 
Bill
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:54:25 AM PST, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill, I really like how you mounted the DROs, probable the nicest looking that I have seen.
Have you looked at ?
It is a great free Android Tablet application to display DRO info.
I use it on my mill and will use it on my lathe once I have added DRO.
Ralph
On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 9:39 AM Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote: Thanks for the links. The 2nd one I might copy the way clamp design. Simple and little machining.? Not having a mill I need to keep my design simple. -Jody -------- Original message -------- From: William Nelson < wnnelson@...> Date: 1/18/19 1:21 AM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Carriage Stop and Indicator I've been wanting a nice mounting bracket for a micrometer head and a dial indicator. I made one from aluminum and it works ok on my Southbend 10k. I have the standard micrometer stop but it doesn't let me get close enough to the spindle when using collets. The narrower one I made for the micrometer gets me close. I've been wanting to make a better looking unit and came across these castings. These will take a little work but I think they look great. Perhaps they can be machined to fit the Atlas Craftsman lathes. I'm going to get 2 they are fairly inexpensive. You can also get them custom machined here.? Take a look at his drawing to see if they can be machined to fit your lathes.?
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Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator
Thanks Bill, I really like how you mounted the DROs, probable the nicest looking that I have seen.
Have you looked at ?
It is a great free Android Tablet application to display DRO info.
I use it on my mill and will use it on my lathe once I have added DRO.
Ralph
On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 9:39 AM Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote: Thanks for the links. The 2nd one I might copy the way clamp design. Simple and little machining.? Not having a mill I need to keep my design simple. -Jody -------- Original message -------- From: William Nelson < wnnelson@...> Date: 1/18/19 1:21 AM (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Carriage Stop and Indicator I've been wanting a nice mounting bracket for a micrometer head and a dial indicator. I made one from aluminum and it works ok on my Southbend 10k. I have the standard micrometer stop but it doesn't let me get close enough to the spindle when using collets. The narrower one I made for the micrometer gets me close. I've been wanting to make a better looking unit and came across these castings. These will take a little work but I think they look great. Perhaps they can be machined to fit the Atlas Craftsman lathes. I'm going to get 2 they are fairly inexpensive. You can also get them custom machined here.? Take a look at his drawing to see if they can be machined to fit your lathes.?
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Brad, ? The Atlas spindles are not hardened.? Or at least the one in my 3996 (same as a 101.28990) is not.? And none of the catalogs claim that they are. ? As a practical matter, the only two ways to ¡°fix¡± one in which the surface of the 3MT taper has gotten damaged are with a tapered reamer or with a taper attachment and boring bar.? Of the two, I would be inclined to trust the former over the latter.? ? If using a chucking (i.e., straight shank) tapered reamer, the first step would be to check and if necessary adjust the tailstock backset so that its axis and the spindle axis coincide.? Then you can use either an end mill holder of the proper diameter or a Jacobs style tailstock chuck, in either case mounted on a 2MT arbor, to hold the 3MT reamer.? And hope for the best. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2019 08:59
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish? Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck / work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Or you could make your own.? I just got in this kit in last week.
With the temp in the garage, it may be several weeks before I can continue with it.? The first step is to make a stub duplicating the lathe spindle.? That has been finished.? When it warms up I will start the adapter side that will fit onto the spindle. The stub is used to check your cut 1.5-8 threads without having to remove it with the chuck and turn it around and try it on the spindle. I purchased a ER32 nut from shars so at least I don't have to worry about that.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 12:05:34 PM CST, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
Don't disagree with you, but the MT3-ER32 collet holder I got is still better than the chuck that came with either of my MT3-spindle lathes. The Asian chuck was good, at .003 inch TIR, while the much older and very worn Atlas chuck was about .014, IIRC. I milled the jaws, just for grins, and got it down to .007 inch TIR, which is better, but not good. Every now and again I consider milling them some more, and seeing if I can drill & tap them to use them for the base for soft jaws.
He makes new jaws for holding the soft jaws, which I'm not going to try just yet. Not sure I'm going to mill them again, either. Just considering it for now. I have a decent Asian 4-jaw chuck each for the Atlas & HF, and a bolt-on ER32 chuck for the HF. Once I have some spare money again, or if I find a couple chunks of steel appropriately sized, I may just make ER32 screw-on chucks similar to your drawing for both the Atlas and my "new" South Bend Heavy 10L. If I do ER32, I can share the ER 32 collets I now own. I think I have 10 Imperial collets, and 20 metric, and use the ER32 collet nuts from my MT2 & MT3-ER32 collet holders. The 10L has a 5C collet closer, tube, and nose-piece, and something like 3 or 4 usable collets, so I'm going to need to buy some of those, too. Gotta save the pennies for them. And I don't have any idea yet how good the 3-jaw for the 10L is. It will be a while getting refurbished enough for me to check the chuck.
Bill in OKC
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 11:47:56 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
I my opinion a collet chuck that screws on the spindle thread is a better way to go, You can use longer work pieces. Mine treads on the out side. The morse taper 3 chuck you have needs to be checked for run out. You can buy? MS reamers on e-bay at a good price if you need to they are good enough to clean up the taper.
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 12:28:06 PM EST, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
An ER32 chuck that threads onto the spindle threads would be much better than one using an morse taper adapter and it will preserve the ability to run longer stock through the spindle hole. The run out should be better too because you avoid the taper-induced
errors, if the morse taper is not cut well.
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad
What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller
in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with
the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not
sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck /
work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back
gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish
Don't disagree with you, but the MT3-ER32 collet holder I got is still better than the chuck that came with either of my MT3-spindle lathes. The Asian chuck was good, at .003 inch TIR, while the much older and very worn Atlas chuck was about .014, IIRC. I milled the jaws, just for grins, and got it down to .007 inch TIR, which is better, but not good. Every now and again I consider milling them some more, and seeing if I can drill & tap them to use them for the base for soft jaws.
He makes new jaws for holding the soft jaws, which I'm not going to try just yet. Not sure I'm going to mill them again, either. Just considering it for now. I have a decent Asian 4-jaw chuck each for the Atlas & HF, and a bolt-on ER32 chuck for the HF. Once I have some spare money again, or if I find a couple chunks of steel appropriately sized, I may just make ER32 screw-on chucks similar to your drawing for both the Atlas and my "new" South Bend Heavy 10L. If I do ER32, I can share the ER 32 collets I now own. I think I have 10 Imperial collets, and 20 metric, and use the ER32 collet nuts from my MT2 & MT3-ER32 collet holders. The 10L has a 5C collet closer, tube, and nose-piece, and something like 3 or 4 usable collets, so I'm going to need to buy some of those, too. Gotta save the pennies for them. And I don't have any idea yet how good the 3-jaw for the 10L is. It will be a while getting refurbished enough for me to check the chuck.
Bill in OKC
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 11:47:56 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
I my opinion a collet chuck that screws on the spindle thread is a better way to go, You can use longer work pieces. Mine treads on the out side. The morse taper 3 chuck you have needs to be checked for run out. You can buy? MS reamers on e-bay at a good price if you need to they are good enough to clean up the taper.
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 12:28:06 PM EST, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
An ER32 chuck that threads onto the spindle threads would be much better than one using an morse taper adapter and it will preserve the ability to run longer stock through the spindle hole. The run out should be better too because you avoid the taper-induced
errors, if the morse taper is not cut well.
Pretty sure he's talking about one of these, Guenther. It's a set of collets with an MT3-ER32 collet holder.
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:10:12 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Brad
What i read you are trying to run the ER32 collets in a morse taper 3 spindle ? You cant do that how are you planning to hold the collets ? You need a collet adapter to hold them, see picture that picture is for a ER40 the taper for your ER32 is smaller
in diameter the rest of the chuck will fit your lathe. Thats another project for you to make the adapter
GP
On Saturday, January 19, 2019, 10:51:03 AM EST, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Craftsman Commercial 12" lathe that I picked up last year. It's in great shape, came with many accessories and i'm really happy with it so far. It's my first lathe.?
I have mostly been doing chuck work, but recently picked up an ER32 collet set to fit up in the 3MT spindle. I had previously indicated the inside bore of the spindle and it runs less than .0005 out, which I am pleased with. However, the 3MT that came with
the collet set goes up into the spindle much farther than I could indicate, so I decided to get my finger up in there and make sure it's cleaned out well. Much to my dismay, I found it rough and full of ridges. The ridges almost seem concentric, so I'm not
sure exactly what may have caused it. Corrosion, a tool spun in the taper - i'm not sure. I marked up the taper on the collet chuck, and found i'm making contact at the front and back of the taper, consistent with high spots at the back. The collet chuck /
work in the chuck run out anywhere from .005 to .010 when in the spindle.
I definitely want to correct this if possible. What would the best course of action be? I used some steel wool and solvents/cleaners, but the problem still exists. I also tried a light stoning with a long half round stone, with the spindle turning slow in back
gears. The taper is still not sitting right. I've been looking online, and there are Morse taper reamers. I've read instances of using them in tailstocks, but has anyone used one in a spindle? Will a HSS reamer even have a chance on a spindle? I would think
it's hardened. Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Bill Buckalew
Ken H
Bill in OKC too