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New here to this list, have a question: With the closing of NWSL soon, I want to get a few regear kits for my unbuilt MDC kits. NWSL has a couple of different kits, including one that doesn't fit pre-1998 lits. But how does one tell which are pre-19998 and which are post-1998? Are all brown flat boxes pre-1998? Any help would be appreciated ... Mike Conder

The video had the locomotive, Fleischmann's 2-8-2T 97-374, with it being viewed from a few different angles as it pulled it's two clearstory roof 60 foot passenger cars along. First loop shows train at station and starts up moving towards camera. As it get close I raise up and let it pass up, under, and around the east turn following it along the back wall towards the west turn. The train now ducks behind the 8 stall roundhouse, then the 3 stall one, goes out of sight but I get it again in view as it come out from behind the roundhouse area. Staying with it but in front I pace the train set making it look still and the background is moving, I lead it in this manner back to the east turn. I only shortly follow it in the back track walking to the west turn and get the train as it is entering the turn behind the roundhouses. Following it along behind the roundhouses to the front straight track being this time alongside above and a little behind the train set as it races along like you are in a helicopter filming this almost real train as it rushes towards the east turn where the video ends. To bad you didn't get it. I tried. I spent more time waiting for this video to process them anywhere else. I guess two and a half loops is just to much. I guess you'll just have to look at a still picture and make believe like child would.

Henry, Are the holes close, or way off? If close, a small round needle file can elongate the hole in question for a bit less effort (arguably) than making a new cover. I've had a couple of Bowser brass cover plates (my H9s models come to mind) where the holes were slightly off from where they should have been....perhaps an error in the stamping/cutting process? Doug Kisala

Hi Henry, Also the LV and the NYO&W. The last LV camelback with a Wooten firebox was retired in 1947 if my research is correct. Does anyone know if the PA had any 0-4-0C Camelbacks? Joel Holmes

Here is all three together in their boxes. Just so you know Ken sent me B&O 62 around a year ago. These two new ones # 60 and 62 are still the only two one of a kinds ever seen. Yes the request is still going for any catalog or Sales info on these two very different 0-4-0ts made by New One of Japan.

Hello list, I've been rebuilding a mid-1980s IHC GG1. The model started out life as a Tuscan Red unit numbered 4828. My grandfather had displayed the model and he ran it infrequently. I wanted to make it run better and I also wanted to add a decoder. My first adventure was about 30 minutes of wheel cleaning with a Brite Boy. This version of the model only picked up power from 4 wheels on each side (2 of the pilot wheels and 2 of the drivers, and the factory motor had a lot of cogging action when I turned it by hand. My first relatively easy task was to replace the pilot truck wheelsets with 36" wheelsets from Intermountain to get RP25 flanges on at least the most visible trucks. I did not consider turning down the flanges on the drivers. I disassembled the model down to the frame and I ended up cutting away a lot of plastic in the center of the model so I could fit a larger motor from Walthers. I had some Grandt Line electrical pickups on hand and I added those to each of the power trucks, so the model now picks up power from 6 wheels on each side. Not perfect, but better. I reinstalled the trucks and sideframes on the model before I secured the motor in place with silicone bath caulk. The installed motor covers up two of the screws used to secure the power truck/sideframe combination. I elected to use the IHC springs to connect the new Walthers motor to the existing power trucks; you could also use Hobbytown or NWSL Universals if you have them. I have the chassis completed to the point where I've test run it on the layout for about 20 minutes. I have not yet added headlights; I like to do soldering in cooler weather than we've got now. This will not be a stump pulling model (as I rebuilt it, it weighs 11 ounces), but it runs smoothly with four passenger cars on my test layout with code 83 track. Paint and decals for survivor 4877 to follow. I was a child when 4877 was repainted into Tuscan Red (a scheme she never wore for the PRR) for her final years of service with NJ Transit. I am leaning towards her current Dark Green Locomotive Enamel (also known as Brunswick Green) scheme. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pennsylvania_Railroad_4877 Doug Kisala

New to the group and this question may be old hat too many members so apologies up front. Several years ago I purchased a motor to bring back to life a Mantua 0-6-0 tender engine. My first kit engine so sentimental rebuild. I now have a Mantua 4-6-0 Dixie Belle that was my brothers first kit that I want to bring back. It does not look like the Yardbird site has any of these motors for sale any more. Is there another source or does any one have a motor they might part with? Thanks

Authenticast Gantry Crane, The producer of HO scale relates cast metal railroad cars, loads, also makes a powered crane. This die cast metal Crane is a one of a kind. It is a transfer crane for picking up material and loading hopper cars that are on the track below it. The material, coal, ballast, dirt is stored in piles off to the track side. The boom doesn't move but the crane roles back and forth on its track. The clamshell bucket moves along its boom the full length of the boom and into the cab where it releases its load down A chute into the positioned hopper car below. Back and forth the bucket goes until the hopper car below is full and the next empty car is positioned to receive material.

I got one of these a while back , detailed nicely . One area gave me fits tho' , the pilot and big air tank . The clearance to the foot boards was way to skimpy . So I played with it for ever until I figured it out !! The pilot screws to the frame , then screws into that big air tank . OK if ANY of these are stripped threads ? You go thru' the frame into a low profile nut to secure the pilot . Then add plastic to the frame to secure the air tank in place . I did that because the frame and the tank were both stripped out ?? Have fun , eh ?? Henry

This one is just like Catford's B&O #62 and will interchange drives with both Silvine B&O #25 and Ken's B&O #62. It came boxed with no company name on the box. Here is B&O # 25 by Silvine.

Just thought I'd share a recent eBay get. Set of plastic Varney shells lettered for the PRR. Even though the scheme isn't perfect, Im going to leave them as-is. Jeff jppellas@...

The Pennsylvania Railroad and its development of the K class steam locomotives. J28, 2761, 7453, Two working locomotives designed to be a test platform for the Future K class 6 wheel drive using large wheels. They were a large type 2-6-2. K28 7067 Alcoa built, to PWF&C, Pennsy Lines West J29 became K29s. A locomotive built by Alco as a test bed for the new K class K1 lines east drawings only, rejected in favor of K2. None built! K2, an experimental locomotive of lines west. The Fort Wayne K2 was selected. K2, The first of this line of Pennsyfied locomotives (with Belpaire fireboxes) which in 1913 numbered 227. K3s first 30 were built by Baldwin with large cylinders. K29s #3395 Alco built prototype for K4 K4 is the most numerous in the class at 429. K5 5698, 5699, came at the end of steam power. Steam was replaced by Diesels.

Is there anyone still alive that might be able to explain why the Authenticast box art seems to clearly show early Walthers and Mantua pieces? See the attached image... Sincerely, Sean

The Blimp Cars are one of my favorites. Over a lot of time almost 50 years of collecting trains I have 6 different ones. I'll show them here. They were made by AHM. Athearn, Cannonball, Kriss-Kraft, and Model power. Athearn made it in both 40' and 50' types. There are 2 color combinations Black and Silver, and Pink and Silver. I hope you like them also. frank top to bottom are Model Power 40', Cannonball 40', Kriss-Kraft 40', Athearn 50', Athearn 40', AHM 40'

Got this at a train show. Looks like an old Mantua but the motor is vertically mounted with the worm protruding from the bottom (see pictures). Hoseeker shows Pittman type motors in the Mantua "goats"??????

Well if any of you want a hand in building a layout or just someone to bs with I'm here. Recently have even been scratchbuilding turnouts. Nathan

Test Bob Macklin Seattle, Wa.

Group: I have recently come across, in two different eBay auctions, a Varney version of the PRR L1 mikado. Finding two tells me that this must have been either a documented kit bash that appeared in a publication that modelers could copy or that there was a conversion kit made by someone. Looking at the auction pictures, I can see that neither of the examples utilized Penn Line parts. Can anyone provide any insight on this? Jeff jppellas@...

Hi folks. I’ve got a half full tube of walthers Goo and the cap is completely fused. Pliers won’t get it open. What do you suggest? I could cut off the tube bottom and then fold it over to reseal? Or cut open and pour into a small jar? Will it eat a plastic container? Thanks for indulging my frugality. Fred

What's your advice on using old lift off decal sheets ? I've been told to use Testor's Gloss or Dullcote to seal them for use ? Please advise ? Happy New Year !! Henry H.