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headerless vced voice , my new dx atari program "voice creator" coming along fine... any features or function suggestions please reccomend.. atm its alot of random creation stuff.. heres a nice voice , which surprisingly sounds good using any algorithm wont work if you dont add the header,checksum and end of exclusive bytes 2F 15 2F 2D 4E 17 55 32 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 60 01 04 5C 02 40 10 2B 23 2C 2D 1A 2E 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 60 01 09 4E 08 51 48 09 21 60 40 54 63 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 62 01 09 00 02 56 63 35 3E 02 44 43 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 00 00 5F 00 08 00 05 5F 5E 57 49 52 09 55 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 00 00 5D 00 02 00 0E 53 53 41 4B 09 3F 48 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 60 00 01 00 02 63 63 63 63 32 32 32 32 08 07 00 4F 03 20 00 00 05 00 18 6E 22 5E 25 7A 79 2C 55 68 37 30 charles /|\??♀
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Hi all, the battery of my DX1 appears to be dead. The service manual states that it should be replaced with a CR2032. By looking at this link https://syntaur.com/Part-2259-Battery-3V-Lithium Syntaur states a BR2325. Which one should I use? Thanks!
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yamaha dx7ii fd internal character set
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im still using my trusty atari and have written a dx7 voice editor ..anyone can save me some time and point me to a description of the dx7 character set? its not completely compatible with ascii. but i am only permitted to use character value 0-127? charles
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DX patches
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Does anyone know where I can find Arabic, Turkish, Greek sounds/voice or oriental voices for a Yamaha DX7 FIID? Have surfed the net for days, but have not been successful I know that Yamaha had added ouds, nays, sornas, mizmars, and watariyats to the regular collection of voices on the PSR-A1000(european/middle east export version). Is anyone aware of any DX patches that may exist for Arabian, Khaligi, Iranian, Turkish, and Greek styles. Thanks
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Leading the Blind
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Hey, folks, I'm having a bit of a problem with my DX7IIFD. Note that all of this is me directing someone else, so there's been a bit of digging around. My cartridge sounds are fine, but the internals aren't what I need them to be. The sounds I want are in the cartridge and also on a floppy in the drive, and I had my assistant to edit the values in the button 14 menu to turn memory protection off. Button 15 doesn't do anything except click to let us know the button's pushed, and in 16 when we try to load a bank I get a notification that memory protect is on, though we disabled it in 14. I'm sure I'm missing something somewhere, but I figured I'd ask here first. Any direction would be great at this point. Nicole Dew knot trussed yore Otto core wrecked ew knot trussed yore Ottocore wrecked
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Configuring a DX7IIFD Without Sight
Hello, folks, I've got a bit of a setup issue. I need to do the following things on my DX7IIFD: Set MIDI channels to 11 and 12 (I think this is on button 31) and make sure Local is on Turn Even/Odd off Load my main sound bank, the internal sounds, from cartridge or disk (it's both places) I can dig through the manual and maybe get all of this worked out, but I'm going to get the help of a sighted friend who knows naught of synthesizers, so step by step is preferable and y'all might think of some things I miss in the procedure. Thanks for any help any of y'all can provide Nicole Massey Jaded Puppy Productions Singer, musician, composer, writer, and so on... nyyki@...
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DX7II / TX802 LFO multi mode does not work?
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As you may know, the DX7II and TX802 LFO's have a "single/multi" setting. According to the manual "multi" means that each voice gets independent voice LFO. I am scratching my head here because I have both a DX7II and a TX802 and toggling the LFO mode from single to multi does... nothing? Say you put a "saw down" LFO on the carrier amplitude (LFO AMD 99, OP1 AMS 7) and you use a long envelope release. With independent LFO's, you should hear an echo effect. Rythmically distinct notes should remain distinct when the LFO opens and closes the amplitude. This is not what happens: all the "echoes" are synchronized. It sounds just like you would expect "single" mode to sound, and indeed nothing changes if you change LFO mode to "single". Here is an example patch that shows the problem. https://tx802-5255017d.s3.amazonaws.com/dx7ii-nomultilfo-edit-buffer.syx Am I missing something? Is there a special trick to get the multi LFO to actually work as described in the manual?
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MIDI Implementation Charts Needed
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Hey, everyone, does anyone have the MIDI Implementation Charts for the DX7IIFD, TX802, and KX5 in a non-graphical format? I'm updating some information on my master gear list. Thanks for any help anyone can provide Nicole Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
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Hi everyone. Connecting the click out to the audio interface input, I can hear a distinct current sound and a faint metronome sound, the metronome sound varies in speed depending on the bpm. But the point is that I'm not running any sequences at all,especially when running the LED test in diagnostic mode,there is a current sound and a metronome sound with every blink of the lights,I think it should be some kind of fault causing the sound leak. I have two qx3's and I have replaced the power board and even replaced the crystals and it hasn't improved anything. Can a pro give me some tips? Everything functions fine, the only problem is the sound. Thank you
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Selling my Yamaha DX7II-FD
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I think I'm finally done with my Yamaha DX7II-FD. It's time to sell it. I thought I'd ask members of this group if they had any advice or experience as to where. Would Reverb.com be better than EBay, for example, or is there somewhere else that would make more sense? It's in very good condition for its age, has the E! Board update, includes a ROM and RAM cartridge, and I'm pretty sure I can still dig up all the original manuals and stuff to go along with it. I think the only thing that has fallen apart over the years is the optional breath controller I purchased, but the jack still works. I'm not sure I know where to sell it or what to ask, so any advice would be helpful. Cheers!
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DX7II-D white noise problem
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Dear Friends I would like to ask for your help. I have recently purchased a faulty DX7II-D model, which is producing the problem you can hear in the YouTube video below. https://youtu.be/ZdbKvThphDI The battery is 2.9V, I upgraded the ROM to v.:1.9 firmware, I don't have a cartridge for it, so I loaded the INTERNAL memory contents via MIDI, but unfortunately no change. What is worrying is that the noise also comes in test mode (as shown in the video) instead of the 880 Hz test tone. The power supply voltages are fine. Do you think this is the kind of error that could be produced by a PCM54 DAC failure? I'm afraid not. It is reacting to the pitch bender, this seems more like a structural fault, which unfortunately could probably be a fault in the EGM or OPS chips. What is your opinion? Thanks in advance! Greetings from Hungary!
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PRACUTIONS AND TIPS BEFORE RE SWITCHING ON (2nd)
In all American-Canadian electric power systems, and probably the rest of the world also, there is a color code for the 3 man wires (and these wires are also often called “leads”). The black wire is where the main electricity flows, and it's usually called the “hot wire. Then there is a “neutral” wire which is wire that used to be the “ground" wire in the 2-lead system. The 2nd wire is supposed to be white. But when a better third “grounding” wire was added to make the "3-lead” system, that “grounding” wire is always supposed to be green. Modern-day professional electricians always adhere to this 3-color code when installing new electrical systems, but older electrical systems (and newer systems installed by non-professionals who aren't properly trained) are sometimes sloppy about adhering to this color code. And sometime amateurs use wires that are not even the right colors to begin with. Most power issues where you get a shock in A.C. power is caused by the two main wires (the black and white wires) being reversed from what they should be. In the days when there wasn't a third wire, just reversing the plug in the wall solved the problems. The third wire was added to stop the problem from happening in the first place. But even when plugs with this third wire are being used, some older “2-lead" wiring still exists somewhere in the power supply system. Finding where the two main wires are reversed from what they should be will solve the problem. Sometimes you can run a wire from under the “head” of any external screw that holds the instrument together to a similar screw on another instrument or other metal device associated wi the power supply and sometimes the shock will stop. You have to experiment around and try out various different connections to test things to see if they work as a temporary “stop-gap” measure at solving the problem. (This technique can also work for audible "buzzes" and “hums” in analog audio cables also, even electric guitars, and microphone stands and holders .) Catch ya later. Bye for now. Dan.
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PRACUTIONS AND TIPS BEFORE RE SWITCHING ON
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Dear All World Class Musicians Owners of DX7 I have one DX7 Keyboard that was off the power grid for more than 5 years. Switched On all functions appear normally on the screen Sound ....none ......is it the battery ofr anything else, [pls help. Else the unit is physically perfect solid state . Please advise on precautions and tips to make it work like in the 80's . Many Thanks to all of you, With kind regards, Raj Mauritius On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 05:38:16 AM GMT+4, Daniel Forró via groups.io <danforcz@...> wrote: Yes, this is general fact. But I suppose he wants to know the relation between DX7 parameter value and BPM, Hz, msec. Here is a table… Daniel Forró
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PRACUTIONS AND TIPS BEFORE RE SWITCHING ON (1st)
Don't get it all wet in the first place. (TeeHee! Sorry, couldn't resist.) Catch ya later. Bye for now. Dan.
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LFO Speed in BPM and some LFO tricks
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Hi, let me explain: - Very low frequencies where measured by measuring the time of a cycle in a wave editor or with a stopwatch. - Normal low frequencies where measured simply by counting the number of "beats" in a certain timespan (one minute for example) - Higher frequencies where measured using a wave editor and viewing the starting points of the cycles. - In the case of for example the FB01 I have reverse-engineered a formula that produced a table that (almost) matched my measurements. LFO_freq_Hz = 48. * (2 ^ (1. / 16.)) ^ (i - 250) the number '48' was the frequency I measured for i=250, where i is in the range 0 to 255 (8 bits). (If anyone can reverse-engineer a similar formula for the DX7, DX11, etc: that would be nice so let us know!) - Missing values where calculated using interpolation and extrapolation - The precision that my tablevalues suggest is probably higher than the real precision. - As extra study material I used a specification doc for one of the Yamaha FM chips (google seacrh for ym2151synthesis.pdf) that contained a table with values. I have attached a page from this document to this mail. MT
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LFO Speed in BPM and some LFO tricks [1 Attachment]
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Hello Martin Many thanks for the LFO parameter tables. With regards to the DX11, on page 9 of the manual, the LFO --> Speed section states: "At a setting of 35, the LFO will make 6.7 cycles per second and at 99, 55 cycles per second." So looking at your table, the Hz value for the LFO setting of 35 concurs with that in the manual. There is, however, a slight discrepancy for the Hz values corresponding to the LFO setting of 99. Did you calculate the values according to some equation ? . . . or was this table obtained from a certain source ? Many thanks, Eb
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Since Yamaha is a Japanese company, their synths were likely made (or at least designed) in Japan which uses the metric system of measurement and construction for everything, including screws, nuts, bolts, etc. At some better hardware stores (not always the big box hardware stores) there are metal or plastic rectangle thing you can hold in your hand, called a “screw checker" that have different size screw holes in them that you can gentle try out any kind and size screw in to find out what that the type and thread of the screw is. America is the only country in the entire world that has a non-metric older different screw-thread system called the "American Standard” system, and complicating things even worse if that there's two of those kinds of screws within the American Standard system also: "Course” thread and “fine” thread. But the influx of foreign made items sold to America has been increasing since the 1960s, and so more and more stuff now common to us is metric instead of American Standard. So there’s a metric screw-checker for testing metric screws and a separate screw-checker for testing American Standard screws. Both are worth buying and keeping for situations like these. Once you've got those, it's likely your DX7 is metric, so get out your metric screw-checker and unscrew one screw from your DX7 that’s closest to the missing screw holes and then test it on the metric screw checker to figure out what the thread is and write that info down. Then measure the length of the screw with any American ruler. Let's say for the sake of discussion that the screw is half an inch long. Write that down also. Now, try that screw in each of the other holes that don't have screws and see if it tightens up properly. If not, you now know you need a longer screw for those holes. But if it tightens up, now you know what length of screw to get, and that it's metric, and what metric-thread you need. Put that screw back into the hole you got it out of and head back to that same better hardware store and tell them the exact kind of screws you want and they might have then and then back home screw them into your DX7 and you're in business. Also note that these kinds of screws are called "machine screws” as opposed to “wood screws" or “sheet metal screws" or "specialized screws” of which there are many kinds. Does this help any? Catch ya later. Bye for now. Dan Fiebiger. Portland, Oregon (Still using my first generation DX7)
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TX802 - Performance Notes Guide
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Does anyone know if there is a performance notes guide for the TX802 similar to the one Yamaha produced for the TX816 (see sample attached)?
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Testing HighHarpsichord & LowHarpsichord patches, Scarlatti K208 in stereo
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Hi and thanks for this opportunity. Using the built in Harpsichord sounds, low & high, in stereo on 2 DX-100s I had transposed to C5 for this high recording but it gets too high and tinny: https://xa.yimg.com/df/freeboards/170915-001.mp3?token=dXk_6GldkB294E8a0aSyzQZDR8rHB_9Lj4knjuVxqE53doXK99GgXEa-rKSooRkl1ILySHKTpYlL5otDVxPbDBY7blywSkTv3F5CP1s&type=download https://xa.yimg.com/df/freeboards/170915-001.mp3?token=dXk_6GldkB294E8a0aSyzQZDR8rHB_9Lj4knjuVxqE53doXK99GgXEa-rKSooRkl1ILySHKTpYlL5otDVxPbDBY7blywSkTv3F5CP1s&type=download This is the octave I think I'll use, the high transposed to C4 instead: https://xa.yimg.com/df/freeboards/170915-001.mp3?token=dXk_6GldkB294E8a0aSyzQZDR8rHB_9Lj4knjuVxqE53doXK99GgXEa-rKSooRkl1ILySHKTpYlL5otDVxPbDBY7blywSkTv3F5CP1s&type=download https://xa.yimg.com/df/freeboards/170915-001.mp3?token=dXk_6GldkB294E8a0aSyzQZDR8rHB_9Lj4knjuVxqE53doXK99GgXEa-rKSooRkl1ILySHKTpYlL5otDVxPbDBY7blywSkTv3F5CP1s&type=download I have a sustain pedal with y-jacks to sustain both keyboards somewhat, hopefully it is tasteful - of course real harpsichords have no sustain pedal. I think I'll add the effect as I did before, it merges the left and right somewhat, though again is unnatural. The lower one gets funky in the low notes, but I don't have a problem with them. The highs in the higher tuned sample's upper patch sound pathetic to me. Comments welcome! If anyone can suggest better harpsichord patches or ways to improve the existing ones thanks in advance. Teo ps These, like all the other samples I've shared are not completed works AT ALL, obviously. I thought a group dedicated to this amazing little keyboard would appreciate someone sharing new ways to use it, patches, techniques like 2 in stereo, sustain on 1 or both, maybe using the breath controller and or footpedal in that jack and so on. If people don't like this they can simply go past this post obviously and I'm sorry for taking up your time. I've made my own yahoo group and won't use up any space here with files. I'm simply open to suggestions or comments. I hope the links from this post to the files in my groups work.
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The keybed is rusted in places and I want to repaint it but the black plastic on the keybed doesn't seem to be removable, how do they mount it on? Do you have any experience with this? Does your dx7 have any rusty spots inside?
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Sat 8:39am
Sat 8:39am