Hi All,

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The issue I had with the original RL1 relay in my FT-101 is that the meter circuit was not working due to the relay.? I had cleaned it a few times bit did not correct the problem but it made it worse.? I decided to replace the relay with a Magnecraft W67RCSX-12 relay as per written in an article on the Fox Tango website by Wayne N4YI.? (Thank you Wayne!)

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I just completed the RL1 modification in which I replaced the original AE-3271 relay with a Magnecraft W67RCSX-12 relay.

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The image below is my write up of what I did using Wayne N4YI article.

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The original article was for a FT-101E, so I compared the schematics for my FT-101 (late, pre B model) to the FT-101E and found that Yaesu did not change the harness wiring for RL1.? After making the wiring change my FT-101 meter now works.? The receiver checked out and I did a transmit test by loading the the transmitter up on 20 meters into a dummy load and checking the audio modulation on one of my other radios.? It appears the mod with the new relay works.?

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I am posting this info for anyone interested, but as a disclaimer you do it at your own risk!

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?73

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Ed KN6NZW

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Hi Roberto,

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I found Jackson ball drive replacements here for my Heathkit HW-101 here. ?They should have one that can be used in your radio. ? ?

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Ed KN6NZW?

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Thank you, Jim, much appreciated and helpful. If you can follow-up with the photo, that would be great! I'd like to see that they match.

73, Randy K7RAN

Not an "authoritive" answer, but

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I have seen 2 FT-101F's in person (I owned one, but it was a parts radio - having been completely abused and destroyed internally by CB usage - fried the HV transformer and output section), and both of them had the same type of sticker (not embossed like the "E" models) for the Model, on the bezel above the VFO knob.

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I sold off the chassis years ago, after having removed all of the boards, output pi network, knobs, etc. I may have kept that front bezel. I know I kept the front panel, because it is in absolutely perfect condition - paint-wise. I will have to check. If I did, I can take a pic. and post here, if there's interest.

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Yes, I also thought this type of sticker was slightly odd. It reminded me of very early 101/101B (Non E). It was very similar to those from what I recall.

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So yes, I think this is the way they came from the factory.

I never heard a response to this... thought I'd check back a few years later to resurrect the question. :)

73, Randy K7RAN

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Whoops, I realised that I didn't actually confirm; my radio is now working as it should.? Thank-you Giuliano.

Thanks for your response Giuliano.

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What I did was open the case and give the jack and mode switch a good spray with contact cleaner and work it back and forth.? It appears I may have had the same issue as you.

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Also, for the record, when in CW mode the side-tone should emit on key-down regardless of the MOX/PTT/VOX switch setting. ?

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Kind regards,

? Lance, VK7TO

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Lance,

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I got exactly same issue.

It turned out a oxideized contact on a mode switch section , cured with contact cleaner.

Of note, you need also to turn on the heather switch? which has a dedicated switch,? to let VOX to work properly.

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Giuliano, IV3DLW?

Yes..

I think if you look at the characteristics of this wire, it might work..

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Good afternoon group.

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I am still becoming familiar with a new-to-me FT-101E.? I am a regular CW operator of both new and old hybrid Kenwoods, so understand the basic principles of CW operation.

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My issue is that I can't get the radio to transmit when in CW & VOX mode, short of flicking the MOX/PTT/VOX switch to MOX.? If the mic is plugged in however, a clap or other noise trigger activates the VOX and it switches to TX despite being in CW mode.

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I have tried the following:

1. Should the radio emit the side-tone even with VOX isn't enabled (the switch in the PTT position)?? As it is I get no side-tone regardless of settings.? If so, it suggests the issue may be the jack on the back of the radio.
2. Are there any common issues with these radios and areas to check with respect to CW keying?
3. Any further tests you can suggest to further narrow down the issue.

Attached is a photo of the rig face, just in case I've got a setting wrong.

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Kind regards,

? Lance, VK7TO

You mean this one?

Hi Kevin,

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I would like to know too!??

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If I had to guess, it would be nichrome resistance wire which is non-magnetic, but that is my guess.? Hopefully someone in the group that is familiar with R12 will fill us in.

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Ed KN6NZW

Two new 6883B/8032A tubes coming my way.? Thanks again Jacques, 73

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Gord. VE5UJ

Hello,

I have to replace the 6:1 Ball Drive in my Yaesu FT-101E , produced by Mainline Electronics Ltd.
Does anyone know the exact model? and code for this replacement?

Many thanks,

73 de ?IU1AHB, Roberto

I will check into the tubes, Jacques, thank you.? If the relay has to be changed, rewiring the socket will be much easier to do than with the older 101s.. finding a socket that will fit the opening in the chassis might be a problem though. Good to hear from you Jacques.? 73.

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Gord. VE5UJ

Thankyou Jacques.? 6883B is a far better price and not much re-wiring to do under the final box.? Now if I can find a source for the relay; several places the relays are listed but no stock.? I will keep trying. Nice transceiver, I had never had my hands on one until this one came in for repair. 73

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Gord. VE5UJ

—碍别苍辞濒颈

Just a note to ask if anyone is using 12 volt versions of the 6146B tubes in the "ZD"??? The 8298As have served well but getting pretty weak.

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Gord. VE5UJ