Are there any shops that still work on/specialize in Yaesu
FT-101E repair/restoration?
I purchased a Yaesu FT-101E with a FL-2100 yesterday for $200.?
The radio appears to work on all bands.? I do not know much at
all about this world famous radio.? And I am not even sure how
to work the FL-2100.
Are their any good instructional videos?
Thank you,
AJ6XW
Are there any shops that still work on/specialize in Yaesu FT-101E repair/restoration, and/or instructional videos?
Are there any shops that still work on/specialize in Yaesu FT-101E repair/restoration?
I purchased a Yaesu FT-101E with a FL-2100 yesterday for $200.? The radio appears to work on all bands.? I do not know much at all about this world famous radio.? And I am not even sure how to work the FL-2100.
Hello all, I have an ft-101e that I have recapped all the electrolytics and it now receives ok.? The finals are rca 6js6c's.? The tubes have been checked and are good but I want to know about the brown square caps in the hv tube section.? I've read that its important to change them before turning on the heater switch or doing any alignment. ? Looking at the manual it shows c13,c104,c125,c11 and c23 from the main chassis parts list.? Should all these be replaced???? What caps are you guys using for replacements?? Does anyone have a digi-key parts list for the correct caps? Thanks, de gregr/ka9vdu
On 29 Apr 2023, at 15:16, Reginald Beardsley via groups.io <pulaskite@...> wrote:
?
I don't use social media. :-(
On Saturday, April 29, 2023, 01:51:14 PM CDT, Richard kn7sfz <kn7sfz@...> wrote:
Definitely join the FT-101 group on Facebook...they have been of great value in helping me with my 101EX.
Richard kn7sfz
On 4/28/2023 5:06 PM, Reginald Beardsley via groups.io wrote:
Hi,I bought an FT-101E "for parts or repair" on ebay. It's not here yet, but I need to start collecting data, manuals, etc.I bought an FGR-7 a few years ago which I completely realigned and corrected the fine tune, but did not do a recap.I've got a very well equipped lab and enough experience to not be concerned about anything other than availability of parts and data. I also have a TS-520 to pick up at the PO tomorrow. So I have a pair of late 70's hybrid analog radios to recondition.Thanks,Reg
Hi,I bought an FT-101E "for parts or repair" on ebay. It's not here yet, but I need to start collecting data, manuals, etc.I bought an FGR-7 a few years ago which I completely realigned and corrected the fine tune, but did not do a recap.I've got a very well equipped lab and enough experience to not be concerned about anything other than availability of parts and data. I also have a TS-520 to pick up at the PO tomorrow. So I have a pair of late 70's hybrid analog radios to recondition.Thanks,Reg
Hi,
I bought an FT-101E "for parts or repair" on ebay. It's not here yet, but I need to start collecting data, manuals, etc.
I bought an FGR-7 a few years ago which I completely realigned and corrected the fine tune, but did not do a recap.
I've got a very well equipped lab and enough experience to not be concerned about anything other than availability of parts and data. I also have a TS-520 to pick up at the PO tomorrow. So I have a pair of late 70's hybrid analog radios to recondition.
Thanks,
Reg
I bought an FT-101E "for parts or repair" on ebay. It's not here yet, but I need to start collecting data, manuals, etc.
I bought an FGR-7 a few years ago which I completely realigned and corrected the fine tune, but did not do a recap.
I've got a very well equipped lab and enough experience to not be concerned about anything other than availability of parts and data. I also have a TS-520 to pick up at the PO tomorrow. So I have a pair of late 70's hybrid analog radios to recondition.
Thanks, Reg
Re: 42 years for a dry joint from manufacturing to cause a problem!
I've just had another dry joint on my early FT-101 (FT-277) fail after almost 52 years.
I had been working on the radio on the bench and was just doing checks before putting the covers back on and had no Tx output. The meter on Ic went full scale hard against the end stop. The meter shunt had become detached from the finals socket and so the cathode current was flowing through the meter and not the shunt. The shunt had obviously been soldered but it was probably not a well-made joint and after many years of getting warm and then cooling down had caused the joint to fail. It has now been resoldered and should last another 50+ years!
Update - I’ve replaced the 20m crystal and it’s now working well!?
I have a question though. I’ve been aligning the clarifier and the tx/rx with the Zero adjust. I noticed all the guides online show the voltage around 3.5-3.8v at the clarifier input. Mine is 1.6v?? Could there be an issue on the rectifier board?? I managed to align tx and rx but it was very tight with the zero adjustment almost fully clockwise!?
The moderator Roger has found a better quality copy of the article for the dmm connected rf voltmeter and has posted it in the files section, i have therefore removed the un needed photos of the article to save some memory in the forum.
No I don’t have any test equipment other than other radios
receivers, DMM (not much use here) etc. I used a nanovna as a
signal generator for the other bands alignment and that went
well, I was able to peak the signal from that. I understand not
having the correct test equipment isn’t ideal, but the way I’ve
aligned it so far has improved the other bands sensitivity.
Would building an rf probe for my DMM be useful?
Yes, by all means and there are plenty of YouTube videos on how to
do that.? You can also use the probe with an analog voltmeter if
that's all you have.? The manual wants you to shoot for 300mv
injection at the test point on the RF board for each band when you
adjust the oscillator trimmers.? I have noticed that the receiver
sensitivity doesn't seem to drop off until the injection drops below
200mv.? At least with the extra receiver, you can determine that
each xtal is operating at its design frequency and detect a dead
one.? Mine has been on the bench for weeks and I work on it as time
permits, loving the learning experience!
No I don’t have any test equipment other than other radios receivers, DMM (not much use here) etc. I used a nanovna as a signal generator for the other bands alignment and that went well, I was able to peak the signal from that. I understand not having the correct test equipment isn’t ideal, but the way I’ve aligned it so far has improved the other bands sensitivity. Would building an rf probe for my DMM be useful??
As you've already discovered, the caps have just the two
connections.? The right side is the rotor connected to ground.?
The small lead on the left connects the stator to the xtal.? Three
of mine failed with the solder bridge connecting the rotor screw
to the rotor plate breaking loose, rendering them useless.? I was
not successful in reheating the solder.
I'm presently experimenting with using the inexpensive plastic
trimmers to replace the ceramic ones.? They are available on
Amazon, Ebay, etc.? Each one needs to be verified with a capacitor
tester.?
Do you have an RF probe connected to the RF board test port so you
can monitor the oscillator signal level?
Thanks Tony, this is what I suspected. I’ve ordered one off
eBay so fingers crossed it’s a working one and it solves the
problem. TC18 also shattered when I was attempting to tune the
crystal (symptoms were already present) so I’ve ordered a used
board to swap that out. Does anyone know of a good new
replacement? I see plenty of ceramic Chinese trimmers but all of
them seem to be two leg instead of 3. Or does that not matter???
From: Carl Sent: April 15, 2023 10:41 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Yaesu-FT-101] FT-101 deaf above 40m
?
Thanks Tony, this is what I suspected. I’ve ordered one off eBay so fingers crossed it’s a working one and it solves the problem. TC18 also shattered when I was attempting to tune the crystal (symptoms were already present) so I’ve ordered a used board to swap that out. Does anyone know of a good new replacement? I see plenty of ceramic Chinese trimmers but all of them seem to be two leg instead of 3. Or does that not matter???
Thanks Tony, this is what I suspected. I’ve ordered one off eBay so fingers crossed it’s a working one and it solves the problem. TC18 also shattered when I was attempting to tune the crystal (symptoms were already present) so I’ve ordered a used board to swap that out. Does anyone know of a good new replacement? I see plenty of ceramic Chinese trimmers but all of them seem to be two leg instead of 3. Or does that not matter???