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Ha, had the bets on wrong for the pics. Also, I think the 3/16 o-rings would put much more tension on the bearings.

Thank you, good information, however I am not mucking up my soldering iron when I can buy silicone o-rings on ebay for ~$10 for two 5 packs (seller oringsandmore). After buying many o rings in the wrong size, here are the -227 and -237 o-rings on my lathe (no slow speed attachment to try, sorry). The 1/8" 3.2 mm cord (-2xx) seems to fit better than 3/16" (recommended above (-341). I also included a picture of it with a -241 (same diameter as -341, what it came with) only using two pulleys. My large pulleys are od: 8.6 cm spindle, 4.2 cm motor. I stopped the spindle with both configurations (having trouble with tailstock tension) and the belts did not slip.

Recently shopping at Ollie's in our city, and I found a 2nd Lodge cast iron griddle for $30 at Ollie's. I'm guessing they are slightly imperfect to land in Ollie's, but I thought the flat side was nice and it will be great to use a magnetic dial indicator.... now I just need to weigh the parts, combined to see if my drawer slides that I purchased for a wall cabinet will work. We got an Ollie's during C-19 lockdown and we have finally gone in the store about 5x in the last year. I remember when this topic was posted previously. The "plan" was to make something to hold the cast iron griddle, that could be put back into the unimat cabinet for storage off the bench surface. Now that I have the griddle decision made it is easier to build the wall cabinet, surely a unimat and griddle will not exceed 100 lbs as I would not be able to lift it off the drawer slides for use. Home depot lowered the price on butcher block surfaces - I want one, but it stayed in the store! Next is to figure out how to mount a unimat to a cast iron griddle... I'm assuming a drill and bolts will do the trick. I did buy some beautiful figured cherry late winter, perhaps that will become the Uni case. But it needs to be dried, so this is going to take a while.... he has promised a solar powered small drying build for bowl blanks and wood....this year... will use You Tube resources. I have never drilled cast iron, and the back side has ridges for grill marks, so I'm assuming I'm going to mill those ridges off, where I place the bolts. I'm glad I own a taig mill, although I was thinking that Mr. Pete doing accessories to use on the Uni on a big machine was irritating... but now I've come off my figurative ledge on the subject. What speed do I need to drill in cast iron with a drill press? Tamra

I'm the new owner of a Unimat SL and have no prior experience with metal machining. Can anyone recommend a source for educational videos on the basics. -Brad

A while back we were kicking around a thread on collet chucks. There was talk of making your own, and there was talk of one on ebay UK. One member here (sorry, I forget who) posted that he’d bought one and it had .004” run out. Well, in a silly moment i bought one also, and mine is twice as good ‘cause it has .008” run out!! So, I decided to go ahead and re-cut it on my unimat along the lines of the “make your own” discussion. What the heck, I can usually get under .001” and this was already threaded for the spindle and should be pretty straightforward as long as i can get the taper right, right? So I turned it down with the idea of cutting off the threaded portion and rethreading further “up” the body, then recutting the taper inside. But when turning it down I received an interesting surprise as shown in this photo: It seems this chuck is not one piece, but rather an adapter that has been pressed on the end of someone else’s chuck! No wonder there was so much run out! Not that i know what to look for I can see the different colors of the two parts: in guess you could try to straighten this by wacking it with a hammer, but I don’t hate my spindle bearings that much. It’s not their fault I bought this! Guess I’m gonna try the “make your own chuck from scratch route. Best Regards John

Hi friends, You may have seen a vise like this in Amazon. Here is my experience. Size (1.2×1.5×3.9) is ok, except for the interference with the wheel. Vise came with bolts and t-nuts that are way too small for the unimat. Holes in the vise, both plain and threaded, will benefit from 10-32 bolts (or M5×0.8? I don't have one to test). If you have options, choose the vise with the right bolts.

Hi. I'm new to this forum. I just bought a Unimat, I think it needs a tune-up. The machine and accessories have been used a lot and shows signs of wear. Before I start, though, I'd like to hear about your experiences. First, I'm not a machinist (yet) - I've been studying and fumbling with my woodwoking equipment to do some simple things. But I decided to get (a little) more serious and learn on real equipment - that's why I got the Unimat. I do know basic benchwork (measurements, layouts, hand tools.) Next, the machine came with no operating manual. I'll be getting one shortly - as soon as I'm sure which machine I have. On the nameplate it just says "Unimat" (no model number). The motor has a model number U-90. My best guess is that it's an SL or DB200. Do you know how I can tell? Then, do you know if the operating manual includes maintenance details (specs, tolerances, adjustments, etc.)? Or should I look elsewhere for this? Any ideas on basic books or sources for the novice Unimat owner? Lastly, if you've refurbished a Unimat, what was your experience? What would you do differently next time? What worked well for you? Thanks for reading my lengthy plea for help, and in advance for any advice you may offer. Joel

After the comment that the group seemed to have gotten quiet, decided to pass this along. I was recently at the Maritime Museum in Oxnard, CA and they had a display of about a dozen ships made by one craftsman, Edward Marple, including his workbench. It has the ship he was building when he passed away. Notice the Unimat pointed at with my not very subtle arrow. It has the jointer attachment. The motorized contraption at the front right of the desk is an old dental drill. He assembled with planks and wood dowels like the real thing. They said up to 8.000 wood dowels in one of his models. Closer photos of the Unimat: And just a few of his many ship models they had on display. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer