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I have a discount offer from an eBay seller for a mill/drill attachment I put a watch on just to see what it would go for. It's different from others listed and I don't know if it's different item with the wrong name, or simply missing components the seller may be unaware of. The price just dropped to $200 USD from Pounds with $44 USD shipping. Appreciate the education.

Hello: Long time no see. 8^) Absence due to having been busy with a number of things, quite a few of them directly related to putting my U3 in order. Others less so, but such is life. In the course of what I have been doing with my U3 and while going over my stash of photographs, I came across the one I attached to this post. Unfortunately, I only recall having it come up while trolling the web for anything with 'unimat 3' in the text file. Maybe in a 'for sale' ad in Craig's? No idea, I had forgotten all about it till today. But I do recall a couple of things immediately called my attention which is why I saved it: 1. A small motor (w/gear reduction?) and fwd/rev control box for driving the carriage feed screw. 2. An nicely oversized handwheel right in front of the carriage which would indicate (?) it is used to move the carriage left/right without the use of the carriage feed screw which would (obviously) be somehow disengaged. It would be really great to be able to move the carriage left/right with a handwheel and skip the arduous carriage feed screw. So ... Anyone here seen this machine, reference to it or anything similar? I'd appreciate your views/comments on this. --- Something else: As I may have mentioned, I purchased my ca. 1980 U3 used, 2nd. 4rd or Xth hand, no idea. No history, maintenance log or provenance. Preliminary testing revealed OEM bearings sounding like a muted blender crushing ice. Further inspection showed the rest of the machine from the 3-jaw onwards having suffered the same lack of care. A real pity and quite a bit of work to make good, a *still* on-going endeavour. First thing was to swap out the bearings for a new set but did not replace the disk springs. Besides not being available locally in that (DIN) size, it was not part of the many instruction sets I read on how to carry out the bearing replacement operation. That was 18 months ago and after getting a great many (!) things straightened out, the lack of properly functioning disk springs shows in every turning operation. Obvious reasons being chuck abused -> bearings abused/shot -> disk springs/shot. A lesson learned: Change bearings? -> change disk springs. Just like when you drop the gearbox on your Chevy to do the clutch: replace everything. I am presently awating for the arrival if a set of disk springs for my U3's headstock which I was able to source from an OEM factory in China. I attempted other sources but they would: 1. not sell to me | 2. have a minimum order of US$100+SH | 3. only ship via courier (US$40 / US$60) | 4. only sell to certain countries in the EU. Once we understood our mutual needs, things with China were rapidly ironed out and I was able to purchase a set 8 disk springs for ~ US$5.00 + US$10.00 shipping. A stark contrast with the three or four outfits which directly ignored my query. Needless to say, the jury will be out till I can install and test them. These chaps export their various models of disk springs worldwide, no reason they will not be just as good as the original ones. Once installed, the level of deflection I now see when taking a cut will hopefully be reduced to a minimum expression. I'll report back on all that once I have something. Best, JHM

I just got done cobbling together a cheap power feed unit for my Unimat 3. I used nothing more than an Erector Set motor and 2 of the pulleys that come with most sets. The 1 to 1 pulley ratio actually seems like a nice speed. Can easily make multiple pullies to add options for different speeds. You can use a Unimat belt, too. Haven't tried it under resistance while making a cut yet, but it should do well with light cuts. The video looks like the feed is a bit herky-jerky, but that is just the video - it actually feeds very steadily. Any thoughts?

Has anyone used an IPad for CAD? My laptop gave up. So I am searching for an alternative. -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

I am considering purchasing a Jewelers magnifier head band. That being said, what is the best type to have for for use with the Unimat? I have used the Optivisor head band and also the type that fits on your your glasses and pivots up when not needed. I think this is my favorite due to light weight. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

Hi, I have some Unimat SL/DB original accesories that either I am not using, or have two of them. I am in Spain and could ship within EU if interested. I have everything on my family home, and will be there next week so I can send you pictures etc. So I am looking to sell: A steady rest, 80€ Planning attachment, 150€ Routing attachment, 125€ Circular Saw Attachment, 200€ Mitre Gauge, 75€ Please let me know if you are interested, I will update with pictures next week.

Hello, All. I'm new to the forum. I need to make new keep plates for my Emco Unimat 3 lathe cross slide. Any suggestions about what material would work best? Thanks!

We¡¯ve had some discussions lately touching on the marvellous triangular gib, which got me wondering - how would you machine a shaped groove internally in a tube (along it¡¯s length)? I¡¯m thinking it would have to be a cutter mounted at 90 degrees, using some sort of pinion drive or similar, but I have absolutely no experience of heavier engineering, so have no idea !

A few years ago I became interested in David Urwick¡¯s triangular gib key for use on my Unimat vertical column to maintain rotational position when raising or lowering the head. It has bean a great help to me as rotational position can now be fixed while raising or lowering the head. An example of its use is when a long slot must be cut in a vertical column. I have had this requirement on several occasions and now I have a means of doing just that. Maybe others can benefit from this also. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

I have recently started cutting thread on my Unimat 3, using Emco's thread cutting set with change wheels that is still being sold by Emco as an Unimat 4 accessory (see this link and the screen shot below). External threading goes very well with this set, but when I turned to internal threading, I found that the carriage suffers from a slight play that tilts the carriage slightly off its normal orientation - the carriage's left upper corner (the one facing the motor) was pushed in the direction of the motor, so I could not ,make a proper thread. I then ascertained to tighten all usual suspects and tried again, but not very successfully. So I wondered whether this might be avoided by repositioning the cutting tool. Rather then having the point of the tool bit directed to me, could I cut thread by rotating it 180 degrees. That way, the cutting point is in the direction of the motor, thus avoiding the carriage to be pushed out of square since the cutting force would now push the carriage towards me ... Just out of curiosity, I wonder whether any of you experienced the same and if so, what can be done to ensure that internal thread cutting goes just as well as external thread cutting? Should I perhaps shim the carriage part that is facing the motor side? Many thanks in advance for any input you are willing to share, Herman

Hello: It seems that solving the problem with the Unimat 3 (?28mm column) milling head cannot be solved as easily as with the older models (?25mm column)so I had another look at what I had seen on the web. Most if not all the viable solutions I have come across rely on an external arrangement, be it with one or two rods to maintain the head aligned as it is moved up / down. They all have the advantage of not having to alter the column or associated parts the possibility of additing a vertical screw for positioning the head. On the other hand, the question of just how much rigidity such a system offers has been raised a few times, something that (depending on various factors) would make it unsuitable. I share that thought: not rigid? Not worth the trouble / expense. Among notable solutions that have come and gone are the Hemingway Kits solution and the UPVLA solution recently brought up by Dick. Then there is the only one I have found to be in the market but requires replacing the whole shebang with the exception of the quill holder. Interesting approach but rather expensive. It can be had from the usual suspects for a nice and tidy sum, which in my specific case would amount to ~US$350.00 and only because it is shipped from the UK and not the US which would make it a ludicrous proposition. Evidently not an easy matter to solve post market without having to put up an interesting sum which can be used for other much needed tooling. Maybe the problem is that we simply cannot have everything? In my case (YMMV) the real problem to solve is losing head alignment when having to raise/lower the head. The limited travel provided by the quill cannot be solved so raise/lower it is. If the alignment problem gets solved, I'd be more than happy to permanently surrender the possibility of swinging the head. After all, it is rather worthless when using the Unimat 3 milling table with its small size and limited travel. See attached file u3_milling.jpg So I came up with a possibility I'd like to ask the group's opinion about. --- 1. See these two views of the quill holder (part A3Y 100 010). See attached files qholder_0.jpg and qholder_1.jpg For reasons, the quill holder is has a conical hole in it. I can understand the conical part of the hole, it is the mere existence of a hole in that part/place baffles me. 2. See this front view of the headstock adapter (part A3Y 100 020). See attached file hadapter_0.jpg As we all know, the quill holder is inserted into the headstock adapter and is locked in and tightened in place by a M6x30 allen head screw. ie: loosening the allen head screw allows the holder to be tilted, separation of the quill holder from the headstock adapter requires the removal of the allen head screw. 3. I was curious to see just how these two parts registered against each other so I got out the blue, painted the surfaces and tested them. See attached files register_0.jpg and register_1.jpg Comparing photo of hadapter_0.jpg with register_1.jpg shows that besides the two cylindrical surfaces of the quill holder (which fits quite tightly into the headsock adapter) the only other surface which registers is the one to right next to the scale. ie: no other part of the quill holder registers anywhere. The amount of material separating the bottom of the headstock adapter (see bear and number 87 in hadapter_0.jpg) from the actual column is an incredibly massive ~3.0mm. 8^¡ã The idea I came up with is this one: Why not use the hole in the quill holder to lodge (locktite or similar) a ?10mm rod (hard bronze, like a gib?) which would run in a 10mm x 5mm track milled into the ?28mm column. (just an idea for a number, maybe 10mm is too much) As the holder/headstock adapter pair are assembled (would have to be in place), the rod would go into the 10mm x 5mm track milled into the column and keep the quill holder/headstock adapter pair in aligned. The only problem I see with this is that the conical hole in the quill holder (~8mm at the bottom, ~10mm at the top and 30mm deep) does not look like it has been machined, meaning that getting the

Good day, Would anyone have an idea about the collet system for the attached collets and collet holder? I got these in a lot of unassorted tools and had to produce a new back plate - which had been missing. Someone suggested to me today that the collets bear some resemblance to DIN 6343 steel spring collets, but the collet angle and dimensions on mine are different. I will give these here: d = 16 L = 29,9 A = 16,4 D = 20,8 ¦Á = probably 25o