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I have recently started cutting thread on my Unimat 3, using Emco's thread cutting set with change wheels that is still being sold by Emco as an Unimat 4 accessory (see this link and the screen shot below). External threading goes very well with this set, but when I turned to internal threading, I found that the carriage suffers from a slight play that tilts the carriage slightly off its normal orientation - the carriage's left upper corner (the one facing the motor) was pushed in the direction of the motor, so I could not ,make a proper thread. I then ascertained to tighten all usual suspects and tried again, but not very successfully. So I wondered whether this might be avoided by repositioning the cutting tool. Rather then having the point of the tool bit directed to me, could I cut thread by rotating it 180 degrees. That way, the cutting point is in the direction of the motor, thus avoiding the carriage to be pushed out of square since the cutting force would now push the carriage towards me ... Just out of curiosity, I wonder whether any of you experienced the same and if so, what can be done to ensure that internal thread cutting goes just as well as external thread cutting? Should I perhaps shim the carriage part that is facing the motor side? Many thanks in advance for any input you are willing to share, Herman

Hello: It seems that solving the problem with the Unimat 3 (?28mm column) milling head cannot be solved as easily as with the older models (?25mm column)so I had another look at what I had seen on the web. Most if not all the viable solutions I have come across rely on an external arrangement, be it with one or two rods to maintain the head aligned as it is moved up / down. They all have the advantage of not having to alter the column or associated parts the possibility of additing a vertical screw for positioning the head. On the other hand, the question of just how much rigidity such a system offers has been raised a few times, something that (depending on various factors) would make it unsuitable. I share that thought: not rigid? Not worth the trouble / expense. Among notable solutions that have come and gone are the Hemingway Kits solution and the UPVLA solution recently brought up by Dick. Then there is the only one I have found to be in the market but requires replacing the whole shebang with the exception of the quill holder. Interesting approach but rather expensive. It can be had from the usual suspects for a nice and tidy sum, which in my specific case would amount to ~US$350.00 and only because it is shipped from the UK and not the US which would make it a ludicrous proposition. Evidently not an easy matter to solve post market without having to put up an interesting sum which can be used for other much needed tooling. Maybe the problem is that we simply cannot have everything? In my case (YMMV) the real problem to solve is losing head alignment when having to raise/lower the head. The limited travel provided by the quill cannot be solved so raise/lower it is. If the alignment problem gets solved, I'd be more than happy to permanently surrender the possibility of swinging the head. After all, it is rather worthless when using the Unimat 3 milling table with its small size and limited travel. See attached file u3_milling.jpg So I came up with a possibility I'd like to ask the group's opinion about. --- 1. See these two views of the quill holder (part A3Y 100 010). See attached files qholder_0.jpg and qholder_1.jpg For reasons, the quill holder is has a conical hole in it. I can understand the conical part of the hole, it is the mere existence of a hole in that part/place baffles me. 2. See this front view of the headstock adapter (part A3Y 100 020). See attached file hadapter_0.jpg As we all know, the quill holder is inserted into the headstock adapter and is locked in and tightened in place by a M6x30 allen head screw. ie: loosening the allen head screw allows the holder to be tilted, separation of the quill holder from the headstock adapter requires the removal of the allen head screw. 3. I was curious to see just how these two parts registered against each other so I got out the blue, painted the surfaces and tested them. See attached files register_0.jpg and register_1.jpg Comparing photo of hadapter_0.jpg with register_1.jpg shows that besides the two cylindrical surfaces of the quill holder (which fits quite tightly into the headsock adapter) the only other surface which registers is the one to right next to the scale. ie: no other part of the quill holder registers anywhere. The amount of material separating the bottom of the headstock adapter (see bear and number 87 in hadapter_0.jpg) from the actual column is an incredibly massive ~3.0mm. 8^° The idea I came up with is this one: Why not use the hole in the quill holder to lodge (locktite or similar) a ?10mm rod (hard bronze, like a gib?) which would run in a 10mm x 5mm track milled into the ?28mm column. (just an idea for a number, maybe 10mm is too much) As the holder/headstock adapter pair are assembled (would have to be in place), the rod would go into the 10mm x 5mm track milled into the column and keep the quill holder/headstock adapter pair in aligned. The only problem I see with this is that the conical hole in the quill holder (~8mm at the bottom, ~10mm at the top and 30mm deep) does not look like it has been machined, meaning that getting the

Good day, Would anyone have an idea about the collet system for the attached collets and collet holder? I got these in a lot of unassorted tools and had to produce a new back plate - which had been missing. Someone suggested to me today that the collets bear some resemblance to DIN 6343 steel spring collets, but the collet angle and dimensions on mine are different. I will give these here: d = 16 L = 29,9 A = 16,4 D = 20,8 α = probably 25o

Hello: This is a (sort of) followup to this post. I went looking and found what I had started working on (more than a year or so ago) while I waited for parts and assorted tools to continue with my U3's much needed rework, which is still in progress. Like a visit to your odontologist: you know when go in but not when you'll leave. What I had in mind was using the existing OEM accesory (that expensive little thingy ... ) but driven by an independent 12/24v DC motor with fwd/rev PWM control. A simple solution to the 'twirl around the handle' hassle involved in moving the carriage away when not turning with a tool. It would still use a belt (preferably round) but it would be of a larger size and section so it would (hopefully) not stretch or slip like the OEM spec o'rings used from the factory. The photos attached are just a proof of concept, a general idea to improve upon and share with the board. Notes: 1. The mounting plate for this mock up was made from scrap galvanised steel sheet. The original one will be replaced with a larger one made from 4 or 5mm laser cut steel plate. The final dimensions and shape of the new mounting plate will become clear when I know what the driving pulley looks like and the exact motor used. 2. This U3 accessory is notoriously difficult to take apart to clean and grease. If you plan on taking it apart, have a close look at the exploded view I am attaching (from the U3 manual). There are a few things that will be lost if you don't. eg: parts 9, 10 and 11 Don't ask me how I know that. 3. You may notice that the hole through which the knurled knob used to engage / disengage the power feed has been enlarged. It has been done so that it can pass through the mounting plate by just undoing three screws. This is needed to be able to take the mechanism apart without having to remove a pin to then remove the knob to then remove the shaft and so on. ie: to avoid all the hassle involved. But don't look for it in the exploded parts diagramme as it is not numbered. You can see it to the left of the gear in the main axle. Eventually, a thin rubber/silicone something can be put in place between the gear and the mounting plate if grease starts to come out while in use. But if hard white/yellow grease (B&D power drill gear stuff) is used, it should not happen. Comments / suggestions welcome. Best, JHM

I needed to reduce a piece of thick wall steel DOM tube by 0.5 mm to about 38 mm. It's 153 mm long. In order to fit it on the lathe I retracted head spindle past the stop screw. Then I made a hollowed plug fitted into the end of the tube to accommodate/recess live center of the tail stock. The part barely clears the cross slide. Finish leaves a lot to be desired, but it did the job.

Can the Unimat DB/SL forum be separated from the Unimat 3 Forum? Even though all are technically Unimats it is sometimes difficult to follow as the discussion is mixed together. Just wondering! Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

This message / topic has the (already defined) hashtag #unimat3 added through the web interface (the '# Add Tags' button to the right of the subject field in a 'New Topic'). When you select one or more hashtags and add them they appear (in the web browser interface anyway) at the end of the subject line. Adding them looks like this in the interface (you can also see the 'Hashtags' item in the menu, on the left): I'm interested to know where (if at all) they appear in an email (in the subject line?), and if they 'persist' across multiple posts (replies). Could someone reply to this please?

Hi Guys Im driving to NY state to see family for American Thanksgiving and wanted to see if any group member wanted any of the accessories I have locally brought along so I could ship via USPS FLAT RATE BOX. ALL PRICES CANADIAN SO NEED TO CONVERT, ABOUT 35% LESS. Here’s the list of available items: Indexing/Dividing attachment (24 or 48 tooth wheels, $200 with choice of wheel) Circular clamping plate $130 Steady Rest $190 Collet Chuck & 4 collets. $250 for Chuck, $40 each collet added Slow Speed motor Bracket $250 Any questions let me know? Cheers, Jeff??

Threading on the Unimat can be done without special chasing equipment. I am going to make an ER32 collet chuck without any special equipment. I bought a cap screw with the same thread pitch as the ER32 collet and a matching tap. I am going to drill drill and tap a starting hole in my bar stock and use the as my leader. With this setup I should be able to cut a single point internal thread to fit an ER32 collet nut I have. If it works as I intend it to I will be home free. We will see how it goes. Stay tuned! Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

Some older Unimats feature the type of motor pictured below. Is this an induction motor? It has a housing on the side that indicates presence of a capacitor, and no sign of brush access holes. It is also 125W, an improvement over typical 90W. Induction motors hold speed and torque under load much better than brushed universal ones. Does anyone have any information or experience with it? Thank you.

Hello everybody, Nice to discover other amateurs of the Emco Unimat! I just removed mine from the attic where it was sleeping for more than 50 years and now I am in the process of learning to use it. And I already come up with a question: Does anybody knows the details of the saw blade for the jig saw? Up to now I haven't been able to find a reseller for the right size of blades. I found small blades, but they don't withstand to the fact that they are only clamped on the underside and therefore they bend after a very short use. The main use would be for fine wooden workpieces. As I am living in Belgium, it would be nice if somebody can indicate me an Internet shop for this blades. Thanks in advance!

I dont know what type Keith has, but I happen to have 2 toolholders with knife tools, both from German manufacturer Komet, also spelled Comet. I took pictures of both and created files for these 2 types - Komet A No. 0 DRGM and Comet A00, complete with rough measurements. Please see here: /g/Unimat/files/Comet%20toolholders%20for%20tool%20knives Komet apparently still is in business and the Comet A00 model can still be ordered (there are actually 4 types there), with a whole range of knives, please see here: https://www.hoffmann-group.com/FI/en/ravemaf/p/240010-A00 Hope this helps and I too would love to hear a bit more from Keith, time permitting. Herman Op 21-11-2024 07:19 CET schreef james Pineda via groups.io <james_h_pineda@...>: HI Keith. Could you elaborate on what you mean by the "knife tool"? You might have just cracked the code for many Unimat/very small lathe users. Best, James On Wednesday, November 20, 2024 at 08:23:59 PM PST, Keith S. Angus via groups.io <keithsangus@...> wrote: On Wed, Nov 20, 2024 at 07:04 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote: Properly ground and honed HSS (High Speed Steel) is sharper than any carbide tooling. It takes decent cuts, leaves a finer finish on the work piece, and does not lose its temper if it gets overheated. High Carbon tool steel will take a better, sharper edge, but get it hot enough to turn blue and it loses it temper and the edge disintegrates. Someone here pointed out that you can get a sharper edge on HSS than with carbon steel, and then I was told that grades with cobalt have a sharper edge. I've found lathe bits from ?' on up in M42, which is a cobalt/molybdenum grade. I haven=t tried it yet - I want to design a holder for the small bits, which will then need less work to grind them to shape. For grinding I have experimented with small (50 mm, 2") diamond wheels and got a good sharp edge and polished surfaces in a short time. There was very little grinding dust, not much noise, no sparks and no smell of burning. I now need to mount the motor and wheel into some sort of frame to give me an adjustable tool support. I've never used the tool sets often supplied with small lathes as the shapes are not so useful. The one that does most work for me is the knife tool, good for turning and facing. I rarely need anything else, just the same shape with different rakes for brass, steel and aluminium.